How do you anneal your cases...?

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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by Apollo » 05 May 2018, 1:56 am

Look up "Skip Annealer" he is a nice bloke... Moved from WA to Mexico (Victoria)... :drinks: :drinks: :friends: :friends: :unknown: :unknown:
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by bigrich » 05 May 2018, 6:06 am

pomemax wrote:
bigrich wrote:looks like a "out of the box thinking" approach pomemax . different syle with the horizontal rollers, but it automatically "ejects" the treated case. wonder if some enterprising aussie could start making them ?

why would you he ships to here


yeh i guess if he ships to here, depends on the cost too but. i just think it would be nice to buy and support local product.
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by pomemax » 05 May 2018, 1:03 pm

Apollo wrote:Look up "Skip Annealer" he is a nice bloke... Moved from WA to Mexico (Victoria)... :drinks: :drinks: :friends: :friends: :unknown: :unknown:
skipps Black bettly aint seen that in a few years
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by nightforcenxs » 10 May 2018, 5:55 pm

just bought the AMP machine today and must say it was alot of money but damn its worth it super easy to use will share some updates how it helps with groups and brass life
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by Stix » 11 Sep 2018, 8:00 pm

Rod_outbak wrote:Stix,

I'm about to build my own blow-torch annealer; pretty sure I have assembled the gear I should need, and then some extra odds & ends to tweak the design.
It might be a month or so before I'm underway, but I should have an idea of what gear I've bought will work, and what is a waste of time.
The parts required have been a confusing mess to figure out, and it's been pretty frustrating at times.
[If you do go the path of making your own, let me know if you'd like a short length of nylon rod, to use for the drum that picks up a case from the hopper. I ended up buying a metre of heat-tolerant nylon rod 80mm diameter, and I'm pretty darn sure I wont ever use half of it. It's supposed to be tolerant of temps up to around 100 degrees.
See http://www.engineeringplasticsonline.co ... ory/30-rod for specs]

I'll let you know how I get on.

Cheers,

Rod.


Hey Rod, how'd you go with this...?
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by Stix » 13 Sep 2018, 9:15 pm

So...im using a yellow trade flame blow torch to try this annealing caper...& im having trouble seeing any colour changes in the brass as its heating...this is due to the flame really.

Ive tried in dim light , no light or normally lit room...no luck seeing any colour changes in the brass itself.

Is there any way of telling by the flame itself...?

Any tips would be great.
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by No1_49er » 13 Sep 2018, 9:41 pm

Any tips. Yes, lots.
Start by reading the Ken Light article that has been posted (link) in this thread. You might come to the realisation that colour change is not what it's cracked up to be. What you really need is the appropriate Templaq temperature indicator, which the article alludes to.
Then, you might be in the park when it comes to making a start.
If you can't be bothered with any of that, buy an AMP.
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by Gaznazdiak » 14 Sep 2018, 11:08 am

Stix wrote:So...im using a yellow trade flame blow torch to try this annealing caper...& im having trouble seeing any colour changes in the brass as its heating...this is due to the flame really.

Ive tried in dim light , no light or normally lit room...no luck seeing any colour changes in the brass itself.

Is there any way of telling by the flame itself...?

Any tips would be great.
Cheers


G'day Stix,
I tried this guy's method, seems to have done the trick.
I just use one of the blue Skinny gas torches from Bunnings.

https://youtu.be/6TuAzQ0208g
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by Stix » 14 Sep 2018, 12:20 pm

So guys...is it the general consensus to use the 700 degree temp indicator...? (not 650 or 750...?)

Also, has any used the crayons/tempil stick...?, and if so is there an advantage to the paint at all...?
(i imagine putting the paint on the inside of the neck may give a better indication the the entire section of brass is at temp rather than just the surface...?)

Also Sungazer, can i ask what sort of results you got with your induction coil you were experimenting with that you mentioned...?
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by marksman » 14 Sep 2018, 3:47 pm

Stix wrote:So...im using a yellow trade flame blow torch to try this annealing caper...& im having trouble seeing any colour changes in the brass as its heating...this is due to the flame really.

Ive tried in dim light , no light or normally lit room...no luck seeing any colour changes in the brass itself.

Is there any way of telling by the flame itself...?

Any tips would be great.
Cheers


Stix I use the blue torch, its not as hot as the yellow, but you should be able to use any heat source its just the mucking about to get it right
I find that I can see way better when its night under fluro lighting with a white background
but usually I just do it when I have to regardless of the time of day, its not rocket science, do it for a while and you will become comfortable doing it
if you are not sure of the colour change as you are doing it do a count and look off the flame if you don't have the blue tinge do some more
I use a cordless drill on low speed with a socket to put the case in
get the rhythm happening and get a count of how long to have the neck under the flame
some drop there cases in water after, I don't as I believe quenching is for hardening not annealing
you can really make this job as basic or as difficult as you want to
just practice with some old brass that you don't care if you ruin it
understand as well that when you anneal you dry out the inside of the neck changing the way the bullet grips
I polish the inside of my case necks but others lube the neck before seating the bullet, some don't worry at all
up to you mate :drinks:
understand I mainly anneal to fireform wild cat cases, in one of Brian Litz's books, in a section under neck tension he did some testing where he annealed one set of brass every time, one set every fifth reloading time and one set never, if I remember correctly he did not find any measurable difference in accuracy, he was not testing the brass for longevity
like Daddybang say's "everyone make a curry different" :drinks:
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by sungazer » 14 Sep 2018, 5:14 pm

Stix I found the Templix crayons to be next to useless. At least the way i was using them. for a start they are not like a crayon in fact they dont really draw on brass at all they have a crumbly texture so if you are turning the brass like you should it falls off. I have been using the yellow bottles slightly hotter than the blue and even trying 700 and 750 it turned black under the flame very quickly. I the 223 cases go very quickly and even on a 308 case I just let it turn pink to just orange at the most.
Havent pursued the induction for a while spent money and time on other projects.
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by bigfellascott » 14 Sep 2018, 5:33 pm

Stix wrote:
bigfellascott wrote:Never done it, still using cases that are around 30yrs old (222) the primer pockets seem to wear out (get loose) more than anything else I've noticed.


Only 30 years old eh...i need to anneal some original "Super" .222 Rimmed cases that are over a decade older than that mate...the old man gave them to me when i stole his rifle 10 pound...!! :lol:
The neck tension on them is all over the place & starting to split now so they need annealing...!!! ;)


I think I have 10 boxes of them brand new sitting in my ammo cabinet. Might get around to useing them one day maybe? :D

I don't bench rest shoot so dropping em all in one hole group isn't that important to me, so long as it snots whatever I'm shooting in the field first shot is good enough for me. :thumbsup:
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by No1_49er » 14 Sep 2018, 8:17 pm

sungazer wrote:Stix I found the Templix crayons to be next to useless. At least the way i was using them. for a start they are not like a crayon in fact they dont really draw on brass at all they have a crumbly texture so if you are turning the brass like you should it falls off. I have been using the yellow bottles slightly hotter than the blue and even trying 700 and 750 it turned black under the flame very quickly. I the 223 cases go very quickly and even on a 308 case I just let it turn pink to just orange at the most.
Havent pursued the induction for a while spent money and time on other projects.

If you apply the Templaq to the INNER surface of the neck, it will not be impinged by the flame and will behave as it's supposed to do.
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by Stix » 14 Sep 2018, 8:44 pm

Hey Marksman,
I tried your method several times last night (im a drummer so pretty good with the timing/rythm thing :thumbsup: ), and had your earlier post in this thread on screen while doing it.. ive chewed through most of my rubbish cases trying to pick a change in the brass but im finding it impossible to detect under any lighting conditions before its been on the heat too much/long.

I am using a drill. :thumbsup:

Today ive found a local mob that i can get the templiq paint from for around $37 & they are relatively close to me, so im just going to buy the paint (both 700 & 450 & be done with it.

The colour of the flame is whats not letting me see the brass-ive tried the flame from just barely on right through to blowing a wall down & the turbulence & colour of the flame almost "shadow" or "screen" if you will, the brass so much that i cannot see the suttle change.

I suspect this would be different with the blue bottle you have....i know it sounds strange, but my flame is not like anything i see on youtube-it really does inhibit the vision of the case...but ive bought it now... :unknown: :violin:

Thanks for the tips on the inside of the case neck...!!!
Ill experiment & see how i go...i imagine ill anneal then neck size so the necks will be graphited anyway--ill try that first, then your way polishing after that.

I mostly want to do this annealing to see if it changes the neck tension --or i should say, gives me more consistant neck tension, and also gives me less fliyers...as while seating some 22-250's & 7-08's there are some that are just so dam firm to seat & im unsure if its the bullet going in on a stupid angle or stiff brass...

So im gonna try the annealing bizo properly, then give a concerted effort to a proper ladder test or 2 at good distance, as i am just burning barrels & powder doing this 100metre rubbish & getting nowhere :x

Anyway,time will tell...i just have to try it then ill know...its a nasty bludy disease i tell ya...!!! :crazy:

Thanks mate :thumbsup:
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by Stix » 14 Sep 2018, 8:54 pm

Thanks sungazer.
I asked a guy about the size of the stick to see if i could get it inside the neck of a 22 but it doesnt sound like ill be able to anyway.

And i know youll think its a waste of time, & it most likely is, but im not turning necks (yet).

Ill order the paint on monday & experiment with the s**ty 22-250 brass i have & see if it makes any difference to the flyers & stiff seating issues ive mentioned above in reply to marksman.

At least then ill have my lifetimes supply of paint for when i can afford a custom build jobby & start turning those necks instead of wringing them... :lol:
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by Stix » 14 Sep 2018, 9:03 pm

bigfellascott wrote:
Stix wrote:
bigfellascott wrote:Never done it, still using cases that are around 30yrs old (222) the primer pockets seem to wear out (get loose) more than anything else I've noticed.


Only 30 years old eh...i need to anneal some original "Super" .222 Rimmed cases that are over a decade older than that mate...the old man gave them to me when i stole his rifle 10 pound...!! :lol:
The neck tension on them is all over the place & starting to split now so they need annealing...!!! ;)


I think I have 10 boxes of them brand new sitting in my ammo cabinet. Might get around to useing them one day maybe? :D

I don't bench rest shoot so dropping em all in one hole group isn't that important to me, so long as it snots whatever I'm shooting in the field first shot is good enough for me. :thumbsup:


You mean you have 10 boxes of original 222 Rimmed Super cases...? :shock:
Wanna toss a box or 2 this way...? (for a fee of course :thumbsup: )

(BTW my post above meant to say that my ol'man payed 10 pounds for the 222 rimmed rifle that i stole from him)

I dont benchrest either, but my disease dictates that i still want one hole...!!
I find that after chasing it on paper for a while it gets depressing, but then get out in the field &drop a fox at 250 at night & a head shot bunny at 220 in daylight lifts the spirits back...!! :lol:
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by Stix » 14 Sep 2018, 9:04 pm

No1_49er wrote:
sungazer wrote:Stix I found the Templix crayons to be next to useless. At least the way i was using them. for a start they are not like a crayon in fact they dont really draw on brass at all they have a crumbly texture so if you are turning the brass like you should it falls off. I have been using the yellow bottles slightly hotter than the blue and even trying 700 and 750 it turned black under the flame very quickly. I the 223 cases go very quickly and even on a 308 case I just let it turn pink to just orange at the most.
Havent pursued the induction for a while spent money and time on other projects.

If you apply the Templaq to the INNER surface of the neck, it will not be impinged by the flame and will behave as it's supposed to do.


:thumbsup: :drinks:
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Re: How do you anneal your cases...?

Post by Stix » 14 Sep 2018, 9:09 pm

And sorry GAz...yes mate seen that...my problem is the turbulance from the flame impeding seeing subtle changes in the brass...i should've got the blue one...!!!
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