Thermal Imaging choices

[willowbrooktan]

Thanks Madang55 - I'll follow up.
Onya.

[Die Judicii]

Hey Die Judicii
Could you do me a favour mate & check that Model Number for the Office Works Power Pack.
Would it be Model PB15BK & not 158K ??
Many thanks
Barry

Yeah Mate, on closer inspection I think your correct.
The B is a bit worse for wear, (nearly two years of use) and at first glance looks a bit like an 8)

So,, > Model PB15BK

[willowbrooktan]

Thanks D J

[madang55]

20220412_083819.jpg (716.87 KiB) Viewed 12745 times

See if this works....

[madang55]

It did work. Wonders will never cease. I can vouch for this particular unit myself. It hold charge for a couple of days, has 2 different UsB outputs, and I've used it to charge up my Samsung tablet and watched a couple of movies, with charge left over. And...it's the only mini power bank in the drawer that is any good at all.

[madang55]

So, I bought the Pard. SA45LRF. Had an old plastic stock, glued a piece of 25mm poly pipe into it and then an old rail on top of that.
I was able to spend a couple of hours playing with the scope last Saturday night and the following email was sent to the guy I bought it from....
.
Found the following, no problems apart from the operator. Somehow I kept hitting the wrong button and it reverted back to Chinese. Luckily I remembered
where the language choice was. Definitely needs familiarization with the menu. Of course, when in doubt, read the instructions. Might do that one day.
I made myself up a large cardboard target with alfoil shapes, worked great. I found the range finder wasn’t reading the range to target correctly
but range to the ground at the base of the target was good. I realised this was probably because the target was leaning back at a bit of an angle.
The rest of the ranging was fine, except that it cut out at the longer ranges and I remember that it was range limited. All good.
Target (wildlife) identification was great out to about 350 then moving targets identifiable out to 500 without a problem. Because I know the range fairly well,
I already knew at what range all the critters, rocks, bushes, etc were.
Its all down to personal preference with the reticule and colour, WHT hot, BLK hot etc, that was fun playing with. Would love to know the reasoning
behind the other colours. The contrast and brightness definitely needs adjusting according to eyesight. I realised this after about 15 minutes when I looked up
and all I could see out of my right eye was black!! The default settings way too high for me. Focus at all the ranges is very good.
I’m going to buy one of those tech cases, the ones you can create the shape of the unit by removing the foam inserts. I don’t want to have to assemble to the mount pieces every time I’m going to use it and risk losing screws etc. I can also then have the batteries, charger, leads, all in the one place and not squeezed together in the small case.
.
The scope will do most of its work on my 204Ruger. A little on the Grendel, and a visit every now and again to the 308w. If I get the ATN NV scope back, working, that will go on the BRNO MOD2. All I have to do is replace all my blocks with rails and with stocks of everything in low supply, that could be a trial in itself.

[madang55]

20220430B_170244.jpg (713.06 KiB) Viewed 12572 times

The best target frame/backing I made was a simple piece of plywood with aiming points made from some alfoil from the pantry and alu tape I got from Bunnings. It was an overcast day but at 25m it was so easy to see and work with. A couple of other shooters were very surprised at what they could see.
At 100m the story was a little different, but after some experimenting came up with what I’ve attached. The silver tape surrounding a square of nothing. I’m wondering what the effect would be if the timber was painted black.
The first group of 5 was in the silver, the 2nd 5 and last 3 all in the 2inch square. The sight picture was not real good at 100, but at 4X, good enough. (6.5 Grendel) I’m a little skeptical about the increments in the reticule adjustment. I reckon they’re a little harsh at 100. At 25m, they work well, but have a greater effect the further out you go. Accurate Kangaroo culling (head shots) will take some very fine tuning and may not be 100%.
Very definitely, the QD option in my books. The programming screen shows RTZ, which can only mean Return To Zero, but even the manual states the scope is NOT a return to zero device. I started with my 6.5 Grendel, then changed to my 223. Set the RTZ programs for both of them, but didn’t have enough time to return the scope to the Grendel and its prog and see how much
change there was by removing and returning etc.
Next outing will be with the 204R and then some serious work.

[Dave_B]

Hello All,
Has anyone had any experience with the Burris thermal scopes or monoculars?
They seem to be very competitively priced but are they any good?
cheers,

[CT hillbilly]

Guys, you have no idea how helpful this topic has been and probably will be for some time. . So far I haven't seen any random bovine droppings appear. Thanks for the valuable input, keep it up.

most definitely!!!! I'm new to the thermal game and am awaiting a (Sightmark 4k mini ) basic i no but it will do until or if i decide i enjoy getting right into night hunting, as mentioned before im one of those who like a beer around a campfire after dark but im interested in this way of hunting,

my next drama is what rifle to use with a tripod triggerstick? my biggest gun is a Mod 7600P Remington in .308 but being a pump action i think having to lift the rifle of the stand to reload after every shot will be a pain in the a$#e? next is my .17HMR good for smaller game but not so on the pig deer ect, so im concidering selling my .308 and replacing it with a (this is where you guys get to help out!!!!) What should i replace it with????? (bolt action) must be a good all-round small and larger game rifle any ideas would be great??? Cheers Joe,

[JimTom]

Mate there will be plenty of haters when I say this but I run my thermal on a 6.5CM, running 143gn projectiles. Have taken plenty of big pigs over the ton and chital also. It’s a reasonably flat shooter, with projectile range from 95gn up to 147gn, maybe even data for heavier projectiles now if you wish.

[mickb]

Sounds like a good setup Jimtom, no hate here.

[Blr243]

Bagging out a Calibre not make any sense at all

[mickb]

Guys how would you rate the reliability and durability of all the units you use? I was tempted to try these way back in the day, but the issue of the wet tropics is humidity and mold gets into any optics that arent gas purged with world class seals. Scopes and quality binos do fine. However cheap binos and low quality spotters etc fill up with green spots before long and even the glues deconstitute and eyepeices or parts fall off. Lengthy diatribe but just setting the stage for the question- how tough are these things and whats the warranty usually like?

[Blr243]

I hav hunted in the drizzle plenty times with my pulsar scope and pulsar binos no probs. But thermal don’t see thru fog well at all ... early 2019 I bought them

[Blr243]

I only took the gear to the cape once in October no prob in the heat either

[Blr243]

It would be fine up north on boars on cattle carcass or brumby baits at night but I struggled with it a bit up there daytime because everything looked white hot up there

[Blr243]

I hav hunted in the drizzle plenty times with my pulsar scope and pulsar binos no probs. But thermal don’t see thru fog well at all ... early 2019 I bought them

[mickb]

cheers BLR, good to know!

[Blr243]

And more precisely, if a decent boar wandered into a swamp and had half his body exposed in the sun I could see ok thru thermal definite waterline cool vs warm boar body .... this would allow me to place a shot fine .... but if he’s been sloshing around a bit and he has the cool water splashed on him it cooled his body enough that u had trouble making out a DEFINITE WHITE HOT target ... I would never normally take a thermal to the cape because it’s daytime successful predominantly.....but on baits at night I def think I’ll throw the thermal binos and scope in the truck prior to taking off north.

[CT hillbilly]

cheers JimTom, my mate uses one and is very happy with it,

[CT hillbilly]

any more info on the battery pack from office works??? cables connections things like that??? i have got the sight mark wraith 4k mini coming and was wondering if anyone has the battery pack on this unit or something similar?? did some research on the pulsar scopes bloody good thing with extremally clear picture but a fair bit out of reach for me atm

[JimTom]

Yes mate they are bloody expensive. I used the buy once cry once philosophy.

[Die Judicii]

And more precisely, if a decent boar wandered into a swamp and had half his body exposed in the sun I could see ok thru thermal definite waterline cool vs warm boar body .... this would allow me to place a shot fine .... but if he’s been sloshing around a bit and he has the cool water splashed on him it cooled his body enough that u had trouble making out a DEFINITE WHITE HOT target ... I would never normally take a thermal to the cape because it’s daytime successful predominantly.....but on baits at night I def think I’ll throw the thermal binos and scope in the truck prior to taking off north.

Yeah Mate,, I know you made mention of this nature a fair while back, but from memory there was no informative response/s from anyone.

So I'll ask the question again in the hopes someone can now explain.

>> thermal scopes/binoculars pick up the temperatures and illustrate same in the varying "shades" (for want of proper terminology) for us to view.

So how come you can see a reflection of a pig for example,,,,, in the water that it's standing in ???????
Theoretically a reflection has zero temperature therefore it should not exist to be seen.

Can anyone explain this ,,,,,

[niteowl]

Radiated and reflected heat. Remember you can detect down to around 50/1000 ths of one degree

[Blr243]

I think a while back when I was unsure about the image of the sow drinking in the water , someone did post an explanation of it but am pretty sure I not understand it properly. We do tend to think of reflection as light based and our vision instead of heat Based .

[Dave_B]

I think a while back when I was unsure about the image of the sow drinking in the water , someone did post an explanation of it but am pretty sure I not understand it properly. We do tend to think of reflection as light based and our vision instead of heat Based .

I am no physicist, but I will have a stab at an answer.

I have a thermal monocular and I through it I can see my reflection in doors and windows at night time. The reflection is faint but easily seen just like you see with your eyes. My understanding is that the doors and windows will reflect a broad spectrum of the electromagnetic spectrum including both visible light waves and 'heat waves' (ie the infrared part of the spectrum).

The same would be the case for water. You can definitely see the reflection on the surface of the water although fainter through a thermal scope. My understanding is that with water, most of the 'heat rays' pass through but a small proportion reflect off water and are therefore, visible to a thermal camera. Visible light is just more reflective on water surfaces than heat.

Cheers.

[niteowl]

I think a while back when I was unsure about the image of the sow drinking in the water , someone did post an explanation of it but am pretty sure I not understand it properly. We do tend to think of reflection as light based and our vision instead of heat Based .

I am no physicist, but I will have a stab at an answer.

I have a thermal monocular and I through it I can see my reflection in doors and windows at night time. The reflection is faint but easily seen just like you see with your eyes. My understanding is that the doors and windows will reflect a broad spectrum of the electromagnetic spectrum including both visible light waves and 'heat waves' (ie the infrared part of the spectrum).

The same would be the case for water. You can definitely see the reflection on the surface of the water although fainter through a thermal scope. My understanding is that with water, most of the 'heat rays' pass through but a small proportion reflect off water and are therefore, visible to a thermal camera. Visible light is just more reflective on water surfaces than heat.

Cheers.

Yep, thats what I said above.

[Blr243]

Good effort blokes. I sort of get it

[madang55]

Thermal Monocular InfiRay Finder FH25R... This unit has internal battery. Li Ion. Can it be charged from a power-bank. USB C connection, but asking just to make sure, before I leap.

[madang55]

i've also determined that Hand and Toe Warmers are the best targets. Put a few holes in them and they survive. If the fall off the frame, the backing stays warm for quite a while.