Stix wrote:Can i ask how easy they are to set up allan...?
I imagine they'd be very fiddly to get to get the windage right...maybe even.more fiddly if you're mucking around with elevation as well...as i imagine one would effect the other.
Yes, to set them up to gain the most from the design, it's a tedious (and sometimes time consuming) job to mount them. I'm a self funded retiree (read OLD) so my time is all mine!
Initially, I just bolt them up using 000" inserts, making sure I have the reticle vertical (plumb line with rifle levelled in a solid cradle. At the range, I zero to my preferred distance. At home, I mount a Bushnell magnetic bore sighter & carefully mark my zero point on the grid - (Keep a separate chart for every gun I own). I then remove the scope and set the internal adjustments to optical centre.
It's then just a matter of fitting any of the off set inserts (They come in 5, 10 & 20 thou) and rotating as required to match my zero point.
Back on the range, I usually find that I'm within an inch or better and can zero with a couple of clicks. I then check my reticule vertical by using the elevation adjustments to track a plumb line on the target - Rarely have to adjust to correct cant.
I'll add that I've been mounting scopes for 60 years (long before these "plastic" inserts were around) and have used the best available one and two piece steel mounting systems. These days, I'm only into "high end" & custom rim fires - If there's an accuracy difference between plastic and steel, I can't pick it but I'm not a long range shooter either. Temperature extremes may influence plastic but I live in the tropics so no biggie for me.