GQshayne wrote:I wonder if perhaps you think you need more magnification, when in fact what you actually need is better quality.
An example - I am at the range doing some sighting in a while ago. I have an old 2-8 power Japanese Tasco World Class. A good scope in its day. Trying to spot .22 holes in the target, I was struggling, so I grabbed the 10 power binos. Hmmm no good either. I also had my .243 there, so I grabbed it to look through the scope, and I could see them quite easily. The scope is a 6 power Swarovski.
An illuminated reticle is worth you looking at too.
Stix wrote:Your description is open ended...you put question marks after many things--for example with reference to the reticle --you ssid this...
"As for wanting a simple reticle, maybe this is not such a big deal? Maybe a tree type one is not so bad? I've never looked through one, but it seems like a whole heap of clutter that I don't want?"
Three question marks that no one can answer for you...
I believe you need to not only look through one, but spend some time shooting with one to know if you like that type of reticle.
I like them, others dont...some dont like the "clutter"--personally i dont even see the "clutter" unless im looking for it for bullet drop...so the only time ive found a fox hiding behind my reticle is when ive put it there--if you dont know you like them--we dont know either.
Im not trying to be difficult, just saying--no one here knows if you like a drop hash mark reticle if you dont.
As for magnification...i cant speak for others, but i find much beyond 16 mag on a scope with 40mm objective, & 18x on a 50mm objective, & you loose way too much light for shooting in a stubble field from within a car (meaning not elevated)...from back of a ute on moonlit night is different..
Im not sure of your expectations...best i can tell you need a Swarovski Z6i...
Also with regard to reticle'--i believe it to be extremely beneficial to shoot with a medium to heavy reticle for spotlighting--it makes it easier to see/more contrast...
i have no doubt that you will struggle to see, let alone to shoot many roos at 250m with a halogen powered blitz 240 looking through a cheap scope (<$1500-2000) wound up to 24X with a fine reticle on a dark night...not impossible, but difficult...!
I do a fair bit of spotlighting & this is just my opinion...
I also have the Trophy extreme 6-24x50 with the varmint reticle (xmas tree) & the reticle is thick--good for spotlighting big targets like foxes & roos heads- -its not much chop on bunny's heads at 300 during the day though.
But--this reticle isnt illuminated--something else that i brlieve will be beneficial for you.
As for hold zero & consistant click value...i believe anything below $2000-$1500 ish is a gamble--buy something eith lifetime w'tee.
If you find it difficult to judge distance--so do most people (not that they will all admit it).
If you're shooting distances beyond the max point blank for your load, buy a rangefinder with an illuminated reticle--it will help you immensly...but there are always times where perspective will fool you at night using a spotlighy & this will continue throughout your life...!!
Recommendations for your specic use...(that i have actually looked through)...
Bushnell trophy 3-15x50 illuminated...
Bushnell trophy 6-24x50
Swarovski z6i (heavier reticlemodel)
Swarvski z5i (heavier reticle model):thumbsup:
Leopold 6.5-20x50 (not sure if the do a heavier reticle other than fine...? )
I also have a zeiss 5-25 hd5 eith varmint reticle--excellent weight reticle for spotlighting but not illuminated...
Gotta go to bed...
GQshayne wrote:I wonder if perhaps you think you need more magnification, when in fact what you actually need is better quality.
An example - I am at the range doing some sighting in a while ago. I have an old 2-8 power Japanese Tasco World Class. A good scope in its day. Trying to spot .22 holes in the target, I was struggling, so I grabbed the 10 power binos. Hmmm no good either. I also had my .243 there, so I grabbed it to look through the scope, and I could see them quite easily. The scope is a 6 power Swarovski.
An illuminated reticle is worth you looking at too.
Roo farmer wrote:GQshayne wrote:I wonder if perhaps you think you need more magnification, when in fact what you actually need is better quality.
An example - I am at the range doing some sighting in a while ago. I have an old 2-8 power Japanese Tasco World Class. A good scope in its day. Trying to spot .22 holes in the target, I was struggling, so I grabbed the 10 power binos. Hmmm no good either. I also had my .243 there, so I grabbed it to look through the scope, and I could see them quite easily. The scope is a 6 power Swarovski.
An illuminated reticle is worth you looking at too.
Thanks for the suggestion, yes maybe that is a possibility. Pretty hard to know. I believe an illuminated reticle runs on a small button battery. How long do they last?
SCJ429 wrote:GQshayne wrote:I wonder if perhaps you think you need more magnification, when in fact what you actually need is better quality.
An example - I am at the range doing some sighting in a while ago. I have an old 2-8 power Japanese Tasco World Class. A good scope in its day. Trying to spot .22 holes in the target, I was struggling, so I grabbed the 10 power binos. Hmmm no good either. I also had my .243 there, so I grabbed it to look through the scope, and I could see them quite easily. The scope is a 6 power Swarovski.
An illuminated reticle is worth you looking at too.
I had the opposite experience, I could not see .22 bullet holes at 500 with a 12x S&B but no can do. I grabbed my bench rifle and could see them easily, with the 55x Nightforce.
GQshayne wrote:SCJ429 wrote:GQshayne wrote:I wonder if perhaps you think you need more magnification, when in fact what you actually need is better quality.
An example - I am at the range doing some sighting in a while ago. I have an old 2-8 power Japanese Tasco World Class. A good scope in its day. Trying to spot .22 holes in the target, I was struggling, so I grabbed the 10 power binos. Hmmm no good either. I also had my .243 there, so I grabbed it to look through the scope, and I could see them quite easily. The scope is a 6 power Swarovski.
An illuminated reticle is worth you looking at too.
I had the opposite experience, I could not see .22 bullet holes at 500 with a 12x S&B but no can do. I grabbed my bench rifle and could see them easily, with the 55x Nightforce.
Both quality optics though, so I would have thought that should be the case. I know S&B is premium stuff but the Nightforce would be close wouldn't it? In my case, it just illustrated that the quality of the optic was more important than magnification.
sungazer wrote:Roo farmer wrote:GQshayne wrote:I wonder if perhaps you think you need more magnification, when in fact what you actually need is better quality.
An example - I am at the range doing some sighting in a while ago. I have an old 2-8 power Japanese Tasco World Class. A good scope in its day. Trying to spot .22 holes in the target, I was struggling, so I grabbed the 10 power binos. Hmmm no good either. I also had my .243 there, so I grabbed it to look through the scope, and I could see them quite easily. The scope is a 6 power Swarovski.
An illuminated reticle is worth you looking at too.
Thanks for the suggestion, yes maybe that is a possibility. Pretty hard to know. I believe an illuminated reticle runs on a small button battery. How long do they last?
Less than a week if you leave them on.
SCJ429 wrote:Yes, sorry mate I was being a bit smart. I am not sure what type of Swarovski that he can get for $700. I did look through a variable 24x Vortex which wasn't bad for around that money but the turrets might be bigger than you want.