Man....
You are just beginning the world of painful head scratching that is selecting a scope.
I've just completed that rigmarole
Scope choice is just that, choice! There are many choices you must make to get the scope you like... And for the price you want to pay. I was looking to buy an expensive scope... But then Santa came along and took all my money
so I had to search all over again.
So now I'm in the same boat as you mate.
It's my first rifle & first scope. I just bought a new Lithgow LA101 in lefty.
I want to build mine as a target only all rounder that will do from 25m out to 2-300mif I liked and as accurate as possible, so pretty similar to what your saying.
This was my checklist...
*Magnification. Personally I can't see the point of only running a -9 or -12 power scope. With a higher mag it's there if needed and can be easily turned down to suit distance and target size when not.
*Quality. How long they have been around, where they are made. Is their glass any good. Do they have a lifetime warranty? Do a lot of research. Stick with the reputed stuff.
*FFP or SFP. Both are good for target depending on the reticle. It depends on what you like.
*Reticle. This was the painful part for me. I didn't want a reticle that was too busy with hold off stuff that in reality, as a target shooter, you shouldn't need. It would be really easy if different scopes came out with the same reticles, at least a standard 'plex' type, but they don't. I guarantee you that at some stage you will find a scope that's looking good only to find that the reticle is no bloody good for your needs.
*Adjustable Parallax. It is a must for target if your going to use it at different distances. I don't think it matters whether its side adjustment or AO really makes a difference. Look for ones that are 10y to ~
*Objective Lens Size. It's really just for gathering light so bigger lens = more light. From research, I don't think anything over 40mm is required for target. Unless you are going to be shooting at dawn or dusk that is. Nothing wrong with having it bigger... You can always sun shade it if things are too bright. Although bigger scope rings will be required and the scope will be further away from the barrel line the bigger you go.
*Eye Relief. It's only gonna be on your rimfire so it's not really a big issue. 3-4 inch will be heaps. What ever is comfortable.
*Mrad or MOA settings. Another personal choice. It can be looked at as metric vs imperial or inch vs cm.
*Turrets. A "target" or "tactical" scope will generally have exposed turrets for easy adjustments. Hunting scopes are usually capped. The most important thing that any target scope needs to do is repeat itself... ie. Always return to the same set/zero point everytime after it's been moved.
Turrets that are zero settable are good and zero stop are better again. Makes it easier to get back to your zero. (@50m or 100m or whatever it's set to)
For long distance .22 stuff you want to make sure it has a lot of elevation and windage adjustment too. I'd say at least 60moa of both.
*Main Tube Size. A bigger tube will generally give you more elevation and windage adjustment. Other than that it's just bragging rights
I have ended up ordering a Bushnell AR Optics 4.5-18x40 with the Wind Hold reticle. It's a compromise of course of features, quality and price but it ticked most of the boxes above, still came in under $500 and will go on my air rifle once I save my bickies motor a super good scope in the future.
...the above advise is from a noob to a noob and may be incorrect in places but this is what I have found after weeks of reading the web's, asking peeps and pestering staff at gun shops...
Feel free to correct me where needed
