.223 @ 200 yards

[TommyB]

I'm just about to take hold of a Tikka .223 and looking for a scope to help me hit targets at 200-300 yards without the use of a spotting scope. I'm pretty new to the game and looking to spend around $500-$750 (new). I know there is a million variables in this question, but can simplify it for me, or give me some lived experience with this calibre/distance?

[Biscuits]

Do you mean being able to see your impacts on a paper target? If that is the case then you need a reasonable top end magnification, maybe 25x. Even then you will need a splatterburst paper target if you want to be sure of seeing it. Note you do not need 25x to hit it accurately, you only need it to see tiny holes in paper. And if you want 25x magnification, you want at least a 50mm and preferably a 56mm objective.

[on_one_wheel]

What loads are you running, weight / speed
That's enough to run a quick calculation for you at that distance without getting too technical
Also let is know where your zero is

Here's my chart for 55 grain 3150 fps 100m zero

Screenshot_20220308-212548_Strelok Pro.jpg (245.12 KiB) Viewed 5758 times

[bladeracer]

I'm just about to take hold of a Tikka .223 and looking for a scope to help me hit targets at 200-300 yards without the use of a spotting scope. I'm pretty new to the game and looking to spend around $500-$750 (new). I know there is a million variables in this question, but can simplify it for me, or give me some lived experience with this calibre/distance?

Will mainly depend on your eyesight I think. By hitting targets do you mean you want to see bullet holes in paper and steel?

At 180m (200yd) I can see .22 holes in paper with 18-power. 275m (300yd) is harder, I'd want at least 24-power, but 40-power is better.
If you mean hunting, then technically you don't need any scope, as long as you can see the target clearly enough to hold a precise sight picture, but even a 4-power scope makes it easier, and 10-power binos for glassing. If you're varminting (head shots on rabbits and foxes out to 400m) then you want in the realm of 18-24-power so you can precisely place your shots. If you're stalking creeks and heavy bush you'll want a low-power minimum of about 3- or 4-power to have enough field of view for fast close shots.

I like tactical turrets so I can make adjustments immediately in the field, I want side-focus parallax, not AO, and I prefer minutes over millirads for adjustment and reticles, and I don't need an illuminated reticle (I discovered a couple weeks ago that the 10-40x56 I've had for a couple years now has an illuminated reticle that I've never used). My preference is the Bushnell AR Optics 4.5-18x40, which is also cheap enough that I can use the same scope on multiple rifles, including .22's.

[straightshooter]

I'm just about to take hold of a Tikka .223 and looking for a scope to help me hit targets at 200-300 yards without the use of a spotting scope. I'm pretty new to the game and looking to spend around $500-$750 (new). I know there is a million variables in this question, but can simplify it for me, or give me some lived experience with this calibre/distance?

Answer these questions and you might have a show of getting worthwhile advice as against what may often be irrelevant or confounding opinions.
What is the intended principal use of your desired rifle, hunting or target shooting?
Is the rifle a sporter or varmint model?
In the case of hunting what kind of huntable terrain are you likely to have access to?

[in2anity]

I run a 223 at 300m (and 200m and 100m) regularly in Service Rifle competition. The colour of the target will influence largely whether one can "spot" the holes. Those "reactive" style targets go a long way in helping you see the holes, for example from my channel: https://youtu.be/jUmqjsDNfwg - you really don't need expensive glass to see the marks on those, and probs even a half decent target scope will do.

A white cardboard target also shows the holes. But a black ink target with holes on the black is VERY hard to spot, especially through the rifle's glass.

It's also harder to spot the smaller .224" holes compared with 30cal (and larger ofc).

The mirage also comes into play. On a "boiling" day the holes become very hard to spot; but on a cool overcast day your spotting is nice and clear.

Nevertheless my scarily expensive Swaroski spotter can spot holes on black ink at 300m, IF the mirage isn't too bad, the wind isn't too strong (as to shake the spotter), and lighting is reasonable.

Coming from a target shooting perspective, I'd like to point out that a 55gr bullet is not really adequate for 300m - O-K under very consistent windage, but outside of this, they will spray the target at 300m. A 69gr bullet at least is required for decent groups at 300m under fluctuating windage, better still high BC bullet in the high-seventy grains, perhaps even the 80.5gr fullbore pill. BUT this requires a tight 1:8" twist.

Aformentioned ideas will scale at 200yds. Cheap spotter glass doesn't cut it at 200m if conditions are bad, holes are small, and target-colour is not well contrasting.

[on_one_wheel]

Whoops... I think I misunderstood the question.

If it's more about scope choices, personally I wouldn't use anything less than a scope with 6.5 - 20 x magnification for that work

[Bugman]

Whoops... I think I misunderstood the question.

If it's more about scope choices, personally I wouldn't use anything less than a scope with 6.5 - 20 x magnification for that work

Yep. A 6.5 - 20 would be ideal in my book, for those distances. It is a matter obviously, of what you want, cost etc.

[Oldbloke]

Whoops... I think I misunderstood the question.

If it's more about scope choices, personally I wouldn't use anything less than a scope with 6.5 - 20 x magnification for that work

Yep. A 6.5 - 20 would be ideal in my book, for those distances. It is a matter obviously, of what you want, cost etc.

Not a target shooters here. But don't the scopes up around 15x and above become difficult to use. eg your eye alignment becomes critical? Just asking. If so OP being a newbie might need to try one.

[bladeracer]

Whoops... I think I misunderstood the question.

If it's more about scope choices, personally I wouldn't use anything less than a scope with 6.5 - 20 x magnification for that work

Yep. A 6.5 - 20 would be ideal in my book, for those distances. It is a matter obviously, of what you want, cost etc.

Not a target shooters here. But don't the scopes up around 15x and above become difficult to use. eg your eye alignment becomes critical? Just asking. If so OP being a newbie might need to try one.

Not until around 32-power, 40-power requires a conscious effort to align if you don't have a cheek weld, with a good consistent cheek weld it's pretty easy.

[TommyB]

Firstly, thanks for all your advice, there is nothing here that I won't take on board. Secondly, I probably should have checked the post more regularly, it's my first post.
To answer a couple of questions, I'm 95% target shooting and want to extend the range of my shooting beyond that of my CZ452 .22 (+100 yds) which has a Hawke scope 4-12/50. I can't see a a spot on a plain target at that distance, through the scope.
So I bought this .223 595 Tikka as it's a beauty, left handed and has a wooden stock at a good price, not an easy combination. Being new to shooting I don't want to have to buy spotting scopes etc... until I know I'm fully into it.
Again thanks, keep the advice coming because it's all gold to me.
Tom.

[on_one_wheel]

Firstly, thanks for all your advice, there is nothing here that I won't take on board. Secondly, I probably should have checked the post more regularly, it's my first post.
To answer a couple of questions, I'm 95% target shooting and want to extend the range of my shooting beyond that of my CZ452 .22 (+100 yds) which has a Hawke scope 4-12/50. I can't see a a spot on a plain target at that distance, through the scope.
So I bought this .223 595 Tikka as it's a beauty, left handed and has a wooden stock at a good price, not an easy combination. Being new to shooting I don't want to have to buy spotting scopes etc... until I know I'm fully into it.
Again thanks, keep the advice coming because it's all gold to me.
Tom.

Welcome along Tom

Pretty sure you can't go wrong with a Tikka

[Tilb004]

To throw a totally different angle at this subject i just bought a drone for $900.
Bloody brilliant , at 200 meters i just fly it down there 2 meters from the target and zoom in with my phone .
Plus i get to fly it around the farm to see if theres any boomers i can peg .

[Biscuits]

The problem is you want to see a small hole on a paper target at 300 metres. I’d spend more on a scope with better glass and a 50 or 56mm objective. It will be a heavy scope for a 223. If I was going this way, I’d double your budget or you will end up dissatisfied.

Or just buy a spotting scope. Mid quality spotters are a lot cheaper than mid quality rifle scopes as they don’t need to track or handle recoil.

[Bello]

Hi Mate
I thought about the same issue. How can I see my 223 holes at 200 meters on paper.
Some nasty folk say that due to my age I cant see the holes
So what I did was bought a Swarovski 5-30 scope. Now i can see the holes.
Just as long as the mirage isn't too bad.

I also bought a March 8-80 scope. Lovely scope. Can see bullet holes even further.
Both the mentioned scopes are very very good.
The down side is they are very expensive as well

[bladeracer]

To throw a totally different angle at this subject i just bought a drone for $900.
Bloody brilliant , at 200 meters i just fly it down there 2 meters from the target and zoom in with my phone .
Plus i get to fly it around the farm to see if theres any boomers i can peg .

Which model is it?
I've been seriously considering something similar. Can it send back more than 200m though? I can see my holes at that range. Setting up a second phone at the target and video-calling from the shooting position works reasonably well.

Can you fly it out of line of sight by navigating on the phone screen?
It would be handy to check on the cattle at the other blocks.

Are you allowed to shoot roos in WA?

[bladeracer]

Hi Mate
I thought about the same issue. How can I see my 223 holes at 200 meters on paper.
Some nasty folk say that due to my age I cant see the holes
So what I did was bought a Swarovski 5-30 scope. Now i can see the holes.
Just as long as the mirage isn't too bad.

I also bought a March 8-80 scope. Lovely scope. Can see bullet holes even further.
Both the mentioned scopes are very very good.
The down side is they are very expensive as well

Good point about mirage, I've had it so bad occasionally that I can't see bullet holes even at 100m.

[Tilb004]

To throw a totally different angle at this subject i just bought a drone for $900.
Bloody brilliant , at 200 meters i just fly it down there 2 meters from the target and zoom in with my phone .
Plus i get to fly it around the farm to see if theres any boomers i can peg .

Which model is it?
I've been seriously considering something similar. Can it send back more than 200m though? I can see my holes at that range. Setting up a second phone at the target and video-calling from the shooting position works reasonably well.

Can you fly it out of line of sight by navigating on the phone screen?
It would be handy to check on the cattle at the other blocks.

Are you allowed to shoot roos in WA?

Gday blade

Yes you can shot roos on your own property if population is getting out of control.
We only have 140 acres and they have been breeding up over the last few years.
I do enjoy having them around but when they get in the numbers of 50 plus on a small property they can do a lot of damage ,plus eat a lot of feed.
Mate the drone is dji mini 2 and the video quality has shocked me how good it is .
It is under 250 grams so you dont need to register it .
I fly it by looking at my phone unless its about 50 meters away.
Your meant to have sight on it at all times which is a joke it, coz its the size of a can of coke.
I do stock check with it and our back boundry is about 1 km away.
The drone can reach 10 km they say but i wouldnt push it that far .
If you need any more info drop me a line ,happy to help.

Tilbs

[bladeracer]

Gday blade

Yes you can shot roos on your own property if population is getting out of control.
We only have 140 acres and they have been breeding up over the last few years.
I do enjoy having them around but when they get in the numbers of 50 plus on a small property they can do a lot of damage ,plus eat a lot of feed.
Mate the drone is dji mini 2 and the video quality has shocked me how good it is .
It is under 250 grams so you dont need to register it .
I fly it by looking at my phone unless its about 50 meters away.
Your meant to have sight on it at all times which is a joke it, coz its the size of a can of coke.
I do stock check with it and our back boundry is about 1 km away.
The drone can reach 10 km they say but i wouldnt push it that far .
If you need any more info drop me a line ,happy to help.

Tilbs

Wow, it sounds very useful indeed.
Does it do the modern stuff like fly back to base when the battery is getting low?
How long does the battery last?
Our bottom block is 2500m to the gate by road so I'd want to be able to get about 3000m I reckon.

We can shoot roos if they're getting out of hand, but the paperwork involved in getting the cull tags makes it unviable.

[jwai86]

Plus i get to fly it around the farm to see if theres any boomers i can peg .

I'll admit that when I read this, this millennial didn't catch on that boomers were a reference to kangaroos

[on_one_wheel]

Plus i get to fly it around the farm to see if theres any boomers i can peg .

I'll admit that when I read this, this millennial didn't catch on that boomers were a reference to kangaroos

Did you think he was referring to the boomer generation ... it's still a possibility, his farm might be next to a country town retirement village.
Pesky old people jumping fences

[Tilb004]

Plus i get to fly it around the farm to see if theres any boomers i can peg .

I'll admit that when I read this, this millennial didn't catch on that boomers were a reference to kangaroos

Yes probably should have made myself clear about that .
We call the big boys boomer in WA .

[Tilb004]

Gday blade

Yes you can shot roos on your own property if population is getting out of control.
We only have 140 acres and they have been breeding up over the last few years.
I do enjoy having them around but when they get in the numbers of 50 plus on a small property they can do a lot of damage ,plus eat a lot of feed.
Mate the drone is dji mini 2 and the video quality has shocked me how good it is .
It is under 250 grams so you dont need to register it .
I fly it by looking at my phone unless its about 50 meters away.
Your meant to have sight on it at all times which is a joke it, coz its the size of a can of coke.
I do stock check with it and our back boundry is about 1 km away.
The drone can reach 10 km they say but i wouldnt push it that far .
If you need any more info drop me a line ,happy to help.

Tilbs

Wow, it sounds very useful indeed.
Does it do the modern stuff like fly back to base when the battery is getting low?
How long does the battery last?
Our bottom block is 2500m to the gate by road so I'd want to be able to get about 3000m I reckon.

We can shoot roos if they're getting out of hand, but the paperwork involved in getting the cull tags makes it unviable.

The only thing i can say blade is that if you drop down behind trees the signal gets weak .
I just keep mine at 50 m and it clears all the trees .
The wind does play havoc when its howling , you get a warning when its too windy and i just head back .
When you first take off it will gps your position ,then when your out back of your farm you can push return to home button .
It will return to the gps point that it saved at the start of flight .

Hope this helps .

[bladeracer]

The only thing i can say blade is that if you drop down behind trees the signal gets weak .
I just keep mine at 50 m and it clears all the trees .
The wind does play havoc when its howling , you get a warning when its too windy and i just head back .
When you first take off it will gps your position ,then when your out back of your farm you can push return to home button .
It will return to the gps point that it saved at the start of flight .

Hope this helps .

Thanks Tilb, very helpful indeed.

[Tilb004]

The only thing i can say blade is that if you drop down behind trees the signal gets weak .
I just keep mine at 50 m and it clears all the trees .
The wind does play havoc when its howling , you get a warning when its too windy and i just head back .
When you first take off it will gps your position ,then when your out back of your farm you can push return to home button .
It will return to the gps point that it saved at the start of flight .

Hope this helps .

Thanks Tilb, very helpful indeed.

Forgot to tell you blade that the battery's last about 20 mins .
I bought 2 more battery's

[bladeracer]

The only thing i can say blade is that if you drop down behind trees the signal gets weak .
I just keep mine at 50 m and it clears all the trees .
The wind does play havoc when its howling , you get a warning when its too windy and i just head back .
When you first take off it will gps your position ,then when your out back of your farm you can push return to home button .
It will return to the gps point that it saved at the start of flight .

Hope this helps .

Thanks Tilb, very helpful indeed.

Forgot to tell you blade that the battery's last about 20 mins .
I bought 2 more battery's

Yes, batteries are an issue with these things
I looked at some a few years ago that could carry a 10kg payload. The problem was, adding weight drained the battery remarkably quickly. Flying it unladen would last a decent period, load it with 10kg and you were pushing fifteen minutes or so, making it pretty impractical for most things, and it was $25,000 to buy.