How to mount scope so reticles are level with action

[Bennybigbores]

If you have an iPhone, done, use level on it, clamp rifle in vise find point to level off, I often use bottom side of rings If suits or pic. Rail take note of angle and simply match that angle off level point on scope, generally scope/turret cap sufficient, and if you are replacing an already sighted in scope have a look at my (handy tip) post before you remove old one could save some time and money

[brett1868]

The technique I use involves 2 sets of feeler gauges and a machinist's set of steel parallel plates. I mount the rings, scope and caps just firm enough to hold but loose enough so I can still rotate the scope. I place the parallel under the centre of the scope on the rail then using the feeler gauges I set the gap each side to be equal and gradually torque the caps down. I use thinner and thinner feelers till I get the correct torque of 18in lbs per bolt. I find this works extremely well with the Barrett Zero-Gap rings I use and is almost mandatory for ranges in excess of 1000m. A slight cant of the reticule is neither here nor there for general shooting but when winding up the elevation by 100+ clicks it can make a massive difference to windage.

[Gregg]

If you have an iPhone, done, use level on it

You reckon those level apps are that accurate?

Not having, never used one, just seemed like a gimmick compared to a trusty old spirit level for a few $?

[raptor_256]

step 1 : mount rifle in a stable and secure position
step 2 : use bubble level to ensure rifle action is level
Step 3 : shine torch through objective lens of scope (the front one). projecting crosshairs onto a wall
step 4 : using a plumb line ( tied off string with weight on the bottom) or something you know to be square, eg door frame, line up crosshairs.
step 5 : tighten down scope and re check.

this is one of my favourite methods as you only need a torch, a small bubble level and something to hold the rifle securely

[Homer]

G'Day Fella's,

FYI, I use the Horizontal Brick Course joints on a neighbors house, as an indicator of whats Horizontal!
I get the rifle in the appropriate/square position, then sight thru the scope onto the brick work.

Hope that helps

Doh!
Homer

[p3seven]

If you are in the country. Tighten screws till scope can just be moved by hand. Shoulder or support rifle so it is level. Sight on top wire of a fence and a star picketfor the vertical. Twist scope till crosshair runs along the top wire and check the vertical runs up and down the star picket .Tighten screws.

[Supaduke]

A good reference to use , either on its own or in tandem with your spirit levels is string. Tie a small heavy object like a nut to the end of the string and dangle it like a plumb bob. Guarranteed to be perfectly vertical. Then line up the vertical line in your scope with the string.

[crows2332]

I second the motion on the Wheeler Level Level Level. It worked a treat to ensure the rifle was dead on level (as scope turrets or fastened rails aren't always level).
(firstly making sure the level that sits on the action rails, shows spot on with it's bubble when placed flat on a tested level surface.
(Used a spirit level in a vice with soft jaws, level up the spirit level, then used another spirit level to ensure that was level (overkill), then placed the Wheeler action rail level on the known level spirit level, tested to be spot on).
Then go to work clamping the rifle in whatever vice with the Wheeler action rail level in place. Works a treat. Then go to work aligning the scope reticle, blue tacked a4 paper to the wall, used spirit level to draw straight line in black texta on the paper.
then align vertical reticle with the line, double checked with pre conformed edge of wall that the paper was on.
Hanging the plumb would work perfectly for the aligning the vertical reticle also.
that way you have your action spot on, and then your reticle spot on to the action.

[AusTac]

I've always just nipped up the scope rings, and got a vertical point, door, wall edging fence post etc and gone off that the rifles hardly ever 100 level when being used anyway

[bigfellascott]

I eyeball it.

[brett1868]

Slightly off topic but similar....Shot metallic silhouette pistol (practise) tonight at St Marys and for the 3rd time the friggen scope rail came loose. I've tried both medium and ultra Loctite and torqued the screws as far as I felt it was safe to without stripping the threads. I may need to buy another base as the screw holes in the current ones have become elongated. Was thinking to glue the base to the frame with some 5 min epoxy, I've used epoxy to glue scopes into rings but never a rail to a frame. Anyone glued bases before? anything I should consider and once glued how hard is it to remove?

[Apollo]

Do It the same way as you glue an action into a stock.

Epoxy, two part. JB Weld etc.

To remove, the same way as an action. Heat..!! Like an Iron sitting on it until it softens and you can seperate the parts. Use the screws to locate but I would put release agent on the screws / threads so they are easily removed afterwards if you remove the rail.

[pomemax]

Brett1868
Is there enough thread coming through the rail into the action may not be by the sound of it , can,t think of the thread formula but a rule of thumb is 1.5 times the dia of the screw just make sure your not bottoming. out

[brett1868]

Cheers Apollo, Now I know how to remove I'll get some 5 min Araldite today.
Pomemax, Screws are full depth through the frame and there's at least 3 which "should" be enough. I've been using Hornady 200gr FTX factory ammo in the 460 and it's definitely a very hot load based on primer flattening. Recoil is substantial and along with the Leupold 2.5-8x32 scope the mount has a fair bit to hold. I'll get some pictures tonight and post to give a better view of what's happening.

[Apollo]

Don't know about 5 min Araldite. Bit too quick to set and doesn't give you time to wait for it to start to set so you can clean up surplus. It would be too thin like super glue in my view but I suppose it depends on how much of a gap / space you have.

With JB Weld you can let it set a little so it doesn't run all over the place and then you tidy up with WD40 on cotton buds to get a really nice edge. Same with the normal bedding compounds (epoxy).

From what I've seen any of them are a bit messy if you use them too fresh when they are really liquid.

[MalleeFarmer]

Here's my pic of how I did my T3 and some others before, simple, quick and works easy as long as the action is flat on top or you have a rail to work off.

Steve-Level-Scope-web.jpg

This is how I do it with a rail.

[Homer]

If you are in the country. Tighten screws till scope can just be moved by hand. Shoulder or support rifle so it is level. Sight on top wire of a fence and a star picketfor the vertical. Twist scope till crosshair runs along the top wire and check the vertical runs up and down the star picket .Tighten screws.

G'Day Fella's,

Great thinking p3seven!
Though for those in NZ, you may need to find another method.

Doh!
Homer