junjun wrote:Waiting to receive my Vortex Viper PST 6-24 FFP scope. While searching on how to properly install the scope, I come across the term lapping. Is it really necessary? Asked the dealer where I get my scope from, they don't do it in store, they have to send it to a gunsmith to do, and it will cost me $80. Should I spend this money? Is there another other place I should go in Melbourne to get it done? Cheers.
pomemax wrote:Do not lap your rings in wait until you have turned a set of rings over puts a real bad divot into the bottom of your scope if it not totally split and wrecked have one like that i only payed 1500 for it . After that you will spend some cash get a lapping kit and never had it happen again i cover all my rings on the bottom only with cloth electrical tape after lapping .Just make sure its flat in the rings
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wheeler-Scop ... Swq5pXPiFx
this set you even get a torque wrench
brett1868 wrote:What calibre is the rifle?, how much does it weigh? Tube diameter of scope? weight of scope? brand and width of rings?
A light rifle in a large calibre will recoil more than a heavier rifle in the same calibre, simple physics. As the rifle recoils the inertia needs is transferred to the scope via its contact patch with the rings. It's entirely possible for scopes to "slip" in the rings under recoil if there's insufficient surface contact or tension between rings and tube. The purpose of lapping is to increase the surface contact area between the tube and rings to prevent movement as well as align the rings concentrically it improve accuracy. That's the logic behind lapping covered but if it's actually required in your case will depend on the answers to the questions above.
Alternatively, lapping is generally a good thing and $80 isn't too much money to have the scope lapped and mounted. I spent a couple hundred and bought a full kit from the U.S that covers 1", 30mm & 34mm tubes.
Old timers and myself included used to line the rings with sticky tape which acted as a filler for improving surface contact area.
brett1868 wrote:The torque wrench is a reasonable quality entry level tool but does the job and works well as a screw driver. Watch the video in the link I posted previously if not already watched. It's a relatively simple process though take your time and check the progress often, it's easy to take little more off but impossible to put a little back. Another tip is once the bases are bolted up I grab a plastic bag, cut a couple nicks in it for the bases to protrude then tape it down. What I'm attempting to explain is that you don't want to get any lapping compound in the action so cover / tape it up very well before starting and ensure you thoroughly clean the compound off everything once done.