Hillver Mounts ?

[Die Judicii]

What are Hillver mounts/rings like ?

? Quality, Fit, etc.

For use on .308

Opinions please.

[bigfellascott]

Excellent IMO got a few sets on diff rifles and never been touched in over 30yr (bridge mounts). I've also got DNZ bridge mounts which seem to be good too - happy with both types.

[bigfellascott]

I think Lynx own hiillver now.

[straightshooter]

The Hillver stud mount system that came out in the late 80's is probably the most robust scope mounting system ever made especially compared to the common 'turn in' type originally made by Redfield and still copied by many other makers.
This is most apparent when you have plenty of recoil and a relatively heavy scope.
Let's face it. These days 50mm variables are the go. Compare them for weight to the 28 or 32 mm fixed power scopes that were most common years ago.
The problem with the 'turn in' type mounts is that virtually all the recoil force must be taken by the front ring assembly. If any substantial recoil is applied to the windage adjustment screws one or both tapered caps will break. As, of necessity, most of the recoil must be absorbed by the front ring assembly it causes the rather petite dovetail stud to peen loose so you get a bonus of a wandering zero.
Now having said all that, if you only shoot half a box of ammo a year your 'turn in' mount, even if it isn't particularly well made, will probably last a lifetime.
More than likely somebody will post that their 'turn in' mount has never had a problem but I have seen enough failures to be a sceptic.

[Wm.Traynor]

I the olden days, Hillver used slot head screws which deformed if the driver was not ground to size. This was a problem for those of us who did not own a bench grinder and we bought the Leupold product with its socket head screws. SHSs, in the thread pitch of the olden days might be hard to come by, now

[straightshooter]

I the olden days, Hillver used slot head screws which deformed if the driver was not ground to size. This was a problem for those of us who did not own a bench grinder and we bought the Leupold product with its socket head screws. SHSs, in the thread pitch of the olden days might be hard to come by, now

Somewhere in the mid 80's Hillver was bought by Tetra Industries and that coincided with the improved designs of mounts and the use of allen head screws.
Prior to that Hillver made copies of Redfield mounts as Leupold and Burris to name just two still do. As I recall the screws were 4BA. BA threads were very common in Australia until we adopted the metric system whereupon they slowly died out. It is now very difficult to find BA screws over the counter. If you really need some try UK ebay.

[marksman]

very good quality IMO made to last and good for thumpers

[Die Judicii]

Thanks Guys.

[brinny]

To me, they are the pick of the mounts.....strong tough and reliable....I have my Rem 700 308 and 3 of my Mdl 2 Brno 22 all fitted up with Hillver bridge mounts....

[Maxjon]

Just bought one for the SMLE...It took a bit of thought, to drill it, but im committed now....Not sure if i should pull the barrel, or just be careful not to drill into the barrel tennon....

[Wapiti]

If you can pull the barrel, do it.
Then you can tap right through and not worry about having to hit the barrel, and have nice clean threads right through the depth of the receiver.
Pay to just mark the barrel/receiver underneath so you torque up to exactly the same spot so your iron sights are square and your headspace is the same as before.

Edit - I thought I might as well add:
Oh, and don't worry about these mounts being strong enough. They will handle the recoil of a 30-378 Weatherby magnum sporter-weight rifle for a lifetime.
You will hear people that like making sparks grinding axes make opinions on engineering designs being inferior, when any failures were actually the fault of the chimpanzee installer. These types of opinion never end, and the shame is others may actually be influenced.
From my own experience, I have myself (not someone else's brothers mates' uncle's bank manager) sheared off the recoil bars under steel "Weaver" type rings tightened to the required 65 inch/lbs, changed them out for the stud type and for the next 15 years of hard farm use, not coveted polished occasional use, never had a zero shift or a loose ring. Without the compromise bodgy loctite use, but simply lubricated, correctly "in tension" torqued screws.
Funny that.

[Maxjon]

If you can pull the barrel, do it.
Then you can tap right through and not worry about having to hit the barrel, and not have clean threads right through the depth of the receiver.
Pay to just mark the barrel/receiver underneth so you torque up to exactly the same spot so your sights are square.

Yeah thats doing it proper, i think. I have all tools and experience, im just being impatient...

[Wapiti]

Just make sure your tapping is aligned with the bore...
But another reason those mounts are good... they allow some windage adjustment just in case... but don't stay on centre because some things just can't be adjusted out.

I made a mod to the post earlier, the wife plonked dinner in front of me and distracted me, apologies.

[Maxjon]

Just make sure your tapping is aligned with the bore...
But another reason those mounts are good... they allow some windage adjustment just in case... but don't stay on centre because some things just can't be adjusted out.

I made a mod to the post earlier, the wife plonked dinner in front of me and distracted me, apologies.

No worries, thanks mate! I will.add some pics when its done