on_one_wheel wrote:
I've decided to build my own by copying what Treg Trailers make.
I'm making it 7 x 5 so the wheel track is exactly the same as my Nissan Patrol.
That makes it easy to reverse as you can see it when it'sin a straight line and it will travel well in my own ruts.
Here's what I'm using. I stole this list from the Treg website.
1.6 mm zinc anneal steel body
Zinc anneal smooth plate deck
7 floor supports (Galvanised RHS)
TREG poly block coupling
HD 2.5 ton axle / braked
1500kg x 9 leaf floating shackle springs
High tensile 50 x 50 x 3mm galvanised square tube chassis and cross members
Reinforced rear drop down tailgate with chain, fixed front
L.E.D. lights protected in 3mm galv. steel channel
Side gusseted with 3mm plate & tie rails all around 75 x 50 x 3mm galvanised rect. tube drawbar
Heavy duty taper roller bearings (light truck type)
Matching rims and stud pattern to my Nissan
Electronic brakes
New Off Road tyres (7.50 x 16 x 8ply)
Hammer finish paint
Hiya Mate,
As I used to build custom order trailers for a living, I reckon your pretty much on the ball.
That being said I have a few pointers for you to consider that may save you head aches and stress, not to mention dollars.
*
You mention using galv RHS. Please be aware that the so called galv RHS you see in the steel sales outlets is NOT really galv,,, unless it is the dinky die "Hot Dipped Galv.
The other stuff is really only designed to protect the steel in transit from the steel mills to the point of sale.
It also has an extremely thin coat of plastic over the top that I think is sprayed on. Certainly not ideal for fabricating a trailer with.
An engineering company I used to work for had a contract to build and erect a gazebo type structure for a local council.
They built it entirely out of the so called galv RHS as per above mentioned.
In less than 12 months the entire structure was riddled with rust, and had to be demolished, and a replacement one was built using Hot Dip Galv material, and the replacement costs were borne by the engineering company.
* If you buy the proper Hot Dip Galv material, and then weld it, you destroy the galv in the HAZ (heat affected zone).
A lot of engineering companies do this, and then wire brush and spray the welded areas with silver paint.
Unfortunately,,,,, rust will still raise it's ugly head unless the area is properly sand blasted, then quality paint and primer applied.
An ideal answer if you want a quality trailer that will last you for many years, is to buy plain steel and build the trailer, then get it sandblasted and the entire trailer Hot Dip Galvanised.
* "Hi Tensile RHS" chassis and cross members.
Hi Tensile is certainly stronger for the given sectional strength,,,,,, BUT it is also much more prone to cracking than mild steel.
Especially so if the frame work flexes, but most frame works like trailers and chassis should flex to certain degrees.
In my experience, one way of winning both ways is to go mild steel, but with slightly thicker wall thickness in any areas of duress.
* "Hammer Tone Paint"
This paint looks fantastic when new, but will start to fade dramatically within 12 or 18 months or even flake from UV rays.
Great for indoor stuff only.
I could post photos of my firearm safe that was painted in charcoal hammer tone 15 years ago that still looks like new.
I could also post photos of my hyd log splitter that was painted in the same color, same brand only 5 years ago, and it looks like s**t.
All faded, flat, and flaky.
For a good choice of paint, go to a paint shop that sells Industrial Enamel or 2 Pak paint, and do it in that. You won't regret it.
But then again, if you Hot Dip Galv it,,,,,,,,,,,, you won't even need paint.
Just my 20 cents worth.
I do not fear death itself... Only its inopportune timing!
I've come to realize that,,,,, the two most loving, loyal, and trustworthy females in my entire life were both canines.
But It still might be cost prohibitive, mates rates can only go so far.
