bigfellascott wrote:How do you find the Sthils Ken alright? that one of mine seems to go well and does the job without fuss.
Harronek wrote:bigfellascott wrote:How do you find the Sthils Ken alright? that one of mine seems to go well and does the job without fuss.
I've only ever owned Stihl saws so can't really compare them to anything else .
None of my saws are huge , because I have no need for a big mother .
Part of my businesses contract is tree removal , but I limit the size of the trees felled to no bigger than about 400mm at the base for liability and insurance reasons .
I use the Mini Boss saws , because they are cheap to buy , are light to carry , try carrying a big saw all day up and down banks while wearing all the safety gear in in mid to high 30's that we get here for quite a bit of the year . They seem reliable , all I've ever done to them is change the plugs and air filter screens .
When I bought them I was told by the shop that I should be buying their commercial series of saws as the Mini Boss was designed for the home owner and not everyday use .
I've had my money's worth out of mine already and everyday is a bonus as far as I'm concerned , they show no signs of breaking anytime soon .
I'll buy them again , I'll just watch for the weekend warrior specials that Stihl have every year or so .
Ken
1290 wrote:That old Jonsereds would respond well to a resto....
I have an Oleomac, great piece of italian macinery...until I pulled on of the bar studs.... #$%^, would give me a workout to start her up (current have decomp buttons??)
So I bought a bunning special when I was in need of some chainsawin. apparently chainsaw are now a single use throw away item
bigfellascott wrote::lol: Love it! - Hows the Husky go? That ol Jonsereds starts first pull of the cord, not bad for an 30yr old saw I believe Husky bought out Jonsereds years ago too.
bigfellascott wrote:That Husky looks about the size of the little Oleomac I have, might be one size smaller, but I reckon the little saws are perfect for what you bought it for.
North East wrote:I wouldn't go less than a 20" bar especially for getting rid of trees across tracks. Make sure you get wedges as well…nothing worse than getting the bar stuck. Also a good idea to do a cross cut and felling course to understand the pressure points on trees and how to relieve the stress . Get used to using the top of the bar on under cuts. Understand kick back dangers and how to avoid them….and wear chaps.
North East wrote:I wouldn't go less than a 20" bar especially for getting rid of trees across tracks. Make sure you get wedges as well…nothing worse than getting the bar stuck. Also a good idea to do a cross cut and felling course to understand the pressure points on trees and how to relieve the stress . Get used to using the top of the bar on under cuts. Understand kick back dangers and how to avoid them….and wear chaps.
Chronos wrote:
Thanks NE
The guy I know services saws for pro guys up around the New England and he said all those guys are going to smaller lighter saws. His comments were along the lines of you can still fell a 36" tree with a 16" bar it just takes more cuts.
He has a massive pile of 009's he's traded in for smaller pro saws.
I'll definitely grab some wedges for the kit and I've already looked at chaps (there's a great demo of chaps on one if the saw safety vids) but at this stage I won't be doing any felling on any of the places I hunt or camp. I've been wielding a 9" angle grinder in my trade for nearly 25 years so I'm well aware of the dangers and energy developed during a kick back. I'm quite safety conscious myself.
Chronos
bigfellascott wrote:Nice video N/E - thanks for that mate.
What do people use to sharpen their chains? I've got a couple of these for the diff chains and they are fantastic, I can highly recommend them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucIpjJ-BNWQ
bigfellascott wrote:Nice video N/E - thanks for that mate.
What do people use to sharpen their chains? I've got a couple of these for the diff chains and they are fantastic, I can highly recommend them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucIpjJ-BNWQ
Warrigul wrote:bigfellascott wrote:Nice video N/E - thanks for that mate.
What do people use to sharpen their chains? I've got a couple of these for the diff chains and they are fantastic, I can highly recommend them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucIpjJ-BNWQ
The 2 in 1 was easy when I used one at our local dealer and if I only ran standard chains and angles I would buy one(doing the depth guages is a pain)but they are no good on the skip chains I mostly run. I also cut a bit of dry wood at times and run the tooth angle at 20-25 degrees so it lasts a bit longer.
I am stuck with standard files and guides. I prefer to sharpen in a vice on the bench and usually take spare chains.
North East wrote:So I said I'm over this and got a Husqvarna, decompression button and all the good gear….and a muzzle brake on the top.
1290 wrote:good stuff BFS, maybe you can come over and fix my 'mac now!