Show us ya chainsaws

[North East]

This is a pretty informative video on chainsaw use, albeit a bit long. But it's appropriate to any chainsaw, be it Husqvarna, Stihl or whatever.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUW7JNk ... XWBq_8gBzw

[bigfellascott]

Nice video N/E - thanks for that mate.

What do people use to sharpen their chains? I've got a couple of these for the diff chains and they are fantastic, I can highly recommend them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucIpjJ-BNWQ

[Warrigul]

Thanks NE

The guy I know services saws for pro guys up around the New England and he said all those guys are going to smaller lighter saws. His comments were along the lines of you can still fell a 36" tree with a 16" bar it just takes more cuts.

He has a massive pile of 009's he's traded in for smaller pro saws.

I'll definitely grab some wedges for the kit and I've already looked at chaps (there's a great demo of chaps on one if the saw safety vids) but at this stage I won't be doing any felling on any of the places I hunt or camp. I've been wielding a 9" angle grinder in my trade for nearly 25 years so I'm well aware of the dangers and energy developed during a kick back. I'm quite safety conscious myself.

Chronos

If you don't know anything about a subject then for gods sake don't mislead others.

-Anything smaller than an old 009 isn't worth having.

-Anyone who tackles a 3' tree with a 16" saw is asking for trouble,

-A 9" grinder kickback bears absolutely no relationship to a chainsaw.

As far as a small engine mechanic's opinion, many-not all- seem to have done most of their falling and blocking at the sales desk, out of the three in my area only one actually has a forestry background.

[North East]

Nice video N/E - thanks for that mate.

What do people use to sharpen their chains? I've got a couple of these for the diff chains and they are fantastic, I can highly recommend them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucIpjJ-BNWQ

I use a 3/16 " file at an angle of 30 degrees. That's appropriate for the chains I use. Also a depth gauge and a flat file. If it starts going around in circles while cutting I have a mate who has an Oregon bench grinder that will get it back on track. I always carry spare chains though in case I hit dirt which blunts them almost immediately.

[Warrigul]

Nice video N/E - thanks for that mate.

What do people use to sharpen their chains? I've got a couple of these for the diff chains and they are fantastic, I can highly recommend them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucIpjJ-BNWQ

The 2 in 1 was easy when I used one at our local dealer and if I only ran standard chains and angles I would buy one(doing the depth guages is a pain)but they are no good on the skip chains I mostly run. I also cut a bit of dry wood at times and run the tooth angle at 20-25 degrees so it lasts a bit longer.

I am stuck with standard files and guides. I prefer to sharpen in a vice on the bench and usually take spare chains.

[bigfellascott]

Nice video N/E - thanks for that mate.

What do people use to sharpen their chains? I've got a couple of these for the diff chains and they are fantastic, I can highly recommend them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucIpjJ-BNWQ

The 2 in 1 was easy when I used one at our local dealer and if I only ran standard chains and angles I would buy one(doing the depth guages is a pain)but they are no good on the skip chains I mostly run. I also cut a bit of dry wood at times and run the tooth angle at 20-25 degrees so it lasts a bit longer.

I am stuck with standard files and guides. I prefer to sharpen in a vice on the bench and usually take spare chains.

Yeah I usually have a few spares in the kit too, saves mucking around out in the field sharpening them, I too do the sharpening using a vice, so much easier when the chainsaw is held solidly.

[North East]

Learn or get shown how to do a plunge or bore cut. This is vital in some felling situations to create a trigger. Probably best to get shown by someone experienced in this cut. There is a very high risk of kickback if you stuff it up.

[Kater]

So I said I'm over this and got a Husqvarna, decompression button and all the good gear….and a muzzle brake on the top.

Duh, every chainsaw needs a muzzle brake

[bigfellascott]

Gave the Ol Girl a bit of a paint job and clean.

BEFORE




AFTER

[1290]

good stuff BFS, maybe you can come over and fix my 'mac now!

[bigfellascott]

good stuff BFS, maybe you can come over and fix my 'mac now!

what have ya done to the Mac mate?

[bigfellascott]

This bloke loves his Mac too - NOT! they sound like a PITA to work on, as he said no wonder they all look new when they are that difficult to maintain and repair!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Sg_XgfTqFM

[1290]

Not the MCCulloch, the OleoMAC.... I bought a McChuckalot for $90 while I repair the real chainsaw...... I pulled a bar stud so the bar doesnt hold properly....

[bigfellascott]

Not the MCCulloch, the OleoMAC.... I bought a McChuckalot for $90 while I repair the real chainsaw...... I pulled a bar stud so the bar doesnt hold properly....

Ah no good mate, my Oleomac is bloody rippa, goes like the clappers and cuts real well for a small saw. So far touch wood no dramas with that one either (10yrs or so old now I guess).

What's the other saw your getting sorted?

[Bourt]

Looking good with the refresh.

[North East]

Gave the Ol Girl a bit of a paint job and clean.

BEFORE




AFTER

So I guess it didn't really have a chain brake, just a guard….like most of the old ones.

[bigfellascott]

Gave the Ol Girl a bit of a paint job and clean.

BEFORE




AFTER

So I guess it didn't really have a chain brake, just a guard….like most of the old ones.

Yeah mate pre Chain brakes this ol girl, bloody good chainsaw though, starts 1st pull and goes hard, plenty of torque too.

[North East]

To many people rely on chain brakes to protect them. Just do a Google image search on chainsaw injury.

[bigfellascott]

To many people rely on chain brakes to protect them. Just do a Google image search on chainsaw injury.

Yeah some reckon their a bit of gimmick, so far touch wood haven't ever had an issue with chainsaw use,

[1290]

Ah no good mate, my Oleomac is bloody rippa, goes like the clappers and cuts real well for a small saw. So far touch wood no dramas with that one either (10yrs or so old now I guess).

What's the other saw your getting sorted?

Oleomac=real chainsaw= broken.... I love it though, at full song she sings like an alfa...

I also had a little Solo (I think the name was) went like stink, but the carby/fueling was a bit finicky...

[bigfellascott]

I believe the Solo were a good saw, I think German made from memory. Yeah the ol Oleomac screams alright, mine only cost $260 or there abouts at the time, bloody cut a lot of timber since I bought it poor things been used to cut up some mighty bloody big trees (way above what it was designed for with its 14" bar but handled it all very well.

[nords]

To many people rely on chain brakes to protect them. Just do a Google image search on chainsaw injury.

Errr.. I think I'd rather not

[mausermate]

I just did....oooooo, ouch, man, WTF, how?

I wish I hadn't.

[chacka]

Uugh. Sorry I looked as well.

[North East]

Pays to wear PPE doesn't it. Chaps are usually made up of a kevlar material which will save you from getting cut and will jam up the chain and stop it moving immediately. Helmut, face guard and proper gloves. Good chaps aren't cheap. But all of this will help stop you from getting mutilated.

I know most people just wing it with chainsaws but doing a basic cross cut course is worth it. I had to have cross cut and felling tickets for work.

So far I haven't been bitten by a chainsaw and hopefully never will.

Had a bloke working with me once have a chain snap when it was going flat out….the chain catcher stopped it from hitting him…and he was wearing full PPE.

Big demo saws are probably more dangerous…I hate using the things.

[Gregg]

Pays to wear PPE doesn't it.

And yet... How many times have you had the 'where is your safety gear' conversation and gotten the answer "yeah I've got it, it's in the truck".