Urastus wrote:Hello. I have a lithgow la101 coming and a hawke panorama 4-12x50 AO scope. It's my first rifle and I'd like to have everything ready for when it arrives so I can start shooting.
I have found rings that I like the look of, I was just wondering what height would I need with the 50mm objective?
Also, the scope I'm getting only has a 3.4 inch eye relief; am I likely to need a rail?
Lastly, the rings I want are pricey but I like the ability of getting close to sighted without using up the available clicks - does anyone have experience with these?: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Burris-XTR- ... SwOgdYzI7X
It looks like the ring inserts are shaped in such a way that you can align the scope body to a degree in the rings.
Thankyou for your time
Urastus wrote:Hello. I have a lithgow la101 coming and a hawke panorama 4-12x50 AO scope. It's my first rifle and I'd like to have everything ready for when it arrives so I can start shooting.
I have found rings that I like the look of, I was just wondering what height would I need with the 50mm objective?
Also, the scope I'm getting only has a 3.4 inch eye relief; am I likely to need a rail?
Lastly, the rings I want are pricey but I like the ability of getting close to sighted without using up the available clicks - does anyone have experience with these?: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Burris-XTR- ... SwOgdYzI7X
It looks like the ring inserts are shaped in such a way that you can align the scope body to a degree in the rings.
Thankyou for your time
Urastus wrote:Bladeracer: I assumed the rail would allow me to move the rings and scope further back. The la101 comes with two tiny sections of rail that are just enough to mounts the rings. So the only adjustment I'd have would be what's available in the scope body. However, all this may be my misunderstanding, my only experience is a few videos.
Re running out of adjustment: I can imagine I'd set this up and leave it, using holdovers (the scope I'm getting has mil dots). However, not having experience with scopes, I thought it would be a good idea to have as much adjustment available in case I do use it. I see that a lot of people dial out and in for different ranges and windage.
bladeracer wrote:but I think it's better to learn to use the scope for field use..
Presuming your scope is not ffp, how do you personally account for variable magnification scopes? My understanding is that the printed subtensions are for a certain magnification, leading to basically an infinite amount of combinations you must memorise (if you plan on adjusting your magnification)
in2anity wrote:bladeracer wrote:but I think it's better to learn to use the scope for field use..
Presuming your scope is not ffp, how do you personally account for variable magnification scopes? My understanding is that the printed subtensions are for a certain magnification, leading to basically an infinite amount of combinations you must memorise (if you plan on adjusting your magnification)
Urastus wrote:Presuming your scope is not ffp, how do you personally account for variable magnification scopes? My understanding is that the printed subtensions are for a certain magnification, leading to basically an infinite amount of combinations you must memorise (if you plan on adjusting your magnification)
Oh! I f****** that idea up Dam, the idea of using mil dots looked good. So that's why everyone carries on about ffp. OK, so realistically the mil dots are only good if I figure out ranges @ 12x for example?
Urastus wrote:Presuming your scope is not ffp, how do you personally account for variable magnification scopes? My understanding is that the printed subtensions are for a certain magnification, leading to basically an infinite amount of combinations you must memorise (if you plan on adjusting your magnification)
Oh! I f****** that idea up Dam, the idea of using mil dots looked good. So that's why everyone carries on about ffp. OK, so realistically the mil dots are only good if I figure out ranges @ 12x for example?
in2anity wrote:That's correct - I think usually the subtensions are applicable to the max magnification, and sometimes max magnification can be detrimental in the field.
Urastus wrote:Thanks for all your clarifications bladeracer. I wasn't about to go and change my scope order as I have done with my rifle choice. Luckily I didn't go too crazy on scope purchase - I was looking at a meopta (drool), so I'll keep what I have and start learning for real when it all comes. It sounds like 2fp is your preference anyway, and I think I'll mostly be at the range till I can shoot well enough to hunt ethically
Personally, I prefer to know the range at which my trajectory meets the holdover marks.
Urastus wrote:Personally, I prefer to know the range at which my trajectory meets the holdover marks.
I can see your logic but how did you figure that out? I'm guessing you entered all the known data (eg projectile weight, fps, caliber etc) into some program and got the answers and then confirmed it on a range? Ignore that, I think I get it.
I finally found the adjustable mount I bought - http://www.sportsmatch-uk.com/products
I vaguely recall getting it from PyramidAir in the UK.
Urastus wrote:In my research on scopes I often came across pyramid air.
The mounts look good. It looks like the rail on the base of the mount might cover half the ejection port.
straightshooter wrote:Please understand that I have never seen or handled a Lithgow 101 so the clear images on this thread are a revelation to me and hence the following comments.
I see the lack of a built in standard rimfire dovetail as a serious deficiency although it may be feasible to overcome with suitable selection of rings and scope.
The rail bases, the necessary rings and large objective scope all serve to increase the height of the scope.
If you hope to use the rifle for small game, problems will arise with the height of the centerline of the scope compared to the centerline of the bore and the shape of the stock.
Put simply the scope will be too high and your head position will be unsupported resulting in erratic practical offhand accuracy.
Urastus wrote:I think I'm going to ask them to change the rifle order too - I don't want the threaded barrel.
bladeracer wrote:Urastus wrote:I think I'm going to ask them to change the rifle order too - I don't want the threaded barrel.
I don't have any interest in suppressors, but I prefer a threaded muzzle so I can run a cheap flash hider to protect the crown and reduce the chance of plugging the muzzle with mud or dirt if it touches the ground.
PaddyT wrote:I have been planning to try a 200M fly shoot with it but havent got round to it.