Safe installation on brick veneer and joists [NSW]

[curiosity]

Hi everyone, I'm in NSW and looking at installing a ABH safe in my brick veneer home. The joists under the flooring are not visible without ripping off drywall from under the downstairs ceiling (will try to use a stud finder), and I'm not sure if there are enough studs in the wall in front of the brick. Is it acceptable to add additional horizontal studs to any vertical studs in the wall to screw into? Is this secure enough? TIA

[yoshie]

How thick is the brick veneer? Is it one brick or the stick on stuff that's 20mm?

[curiosity]

How thick is the brick veneer? Is it one brick or the stick on stuff that's 20mm?

It's one brick thick, I might have to attach to some studs in the wall, but might have to get a carpenter to install additional 'noggins'. Not sure how secure this is though? Is there anyway to reinforce the studs and noggins other than just adding extra nails?

[Gamerancher]

Angle brackets attached with screws. Also, screws instead of nails. If you know the hole spacings/location in your safe, set the reinforced frame up to accommodate them and fix the framing to the brickwork as well. I gather you don't have the gyprock on or are planning on removing it for this job.

[yoshie]

Chemset anchors

[womble]

Chemset anchors

Bingo

[Lsfan]

Brick veneer means timber internal frame with a cavity and either 90 or 70mm studs. You shouldn't fix to brickwork because you will breach the cavity.

If you remove the plasterboard from the wall and locate the studs, yes of course you can install noggings. Get the same size timber as your studs and then use some 90 degree brackets from bunnings. Lineup the noggings with the holes in the safe.

Put some marks in the adjacent plasterboard before you put back the plasterboard so you know where they are. The difficult part is re-setting and painting the plasterboard but otherwise you can then install 4 coach screws through the back of the safe into your new noggings.

[ederlezi]

Lsfan, this is the proper way.

Alternatively, I understand you will install a rifle safe with a h compartiment on top like the Spika S2CH?

It might sound trivial but another simple way would be to drill extra holes in your safe so you have 4 holes aligned vertically, then you only need one stud to attach your safe to.

Use at least 8mm X 65mm coach screws as per the legislation. Would work with a pistol safe as the 4 anchors will be too close from each other, but with a 1500mm safe, you will be fine.

[Lsfan]

Lsfan, this is the proper way.

Alternatively, I understand you will install a rifle safe with a h compartiment on top like the Spika S2CH?

It might sound trivial but another simple way would be to drill extra holes in your safe so you have 4 holes aligned vertically, then you only need one stud to attach your safe to.

Use at least 8mm X 65mm coach screws as per the legislation. Would work with a pistol safe as the 4 anchors will be too close from each other, but with a 1500mm safe, you will be fine.

I suppose that may comply but wouldn't be very secure. If someone tried to remove the safe it would really test the strength of the backing plate and bolts and stud for that matter as everything would rotate around the one axis. I wouldn't be happy with that myself.

[mikejay]

Do what u have to do to fulfill the requirements, no more no less. You're not being asked to make it impossible to remove because that's impossible if someone is prepared to put in effort.