Question for the carpenter/ handy man

[TassieTiger]

I’ve received my future shooting shack and I’m starting to sort it all out before having it relocated up the Bush.
I’ve stud lined the walls and cut windows and doors.
What is the cheapest material for internal lining? I was contemplating a Vj tounge and groove lining or perhaps a light marine ply sheeting - but I’m having a lot of shelving, bunk beds for 4, etc meaning lots of brackets on walls so large sheeting will ultimately be a pain - so other ideas?

Also - I’m going to put a 3 or 4% angled roof on the container, with railing and this will become a platform for some prone long distance shooting - but I don’t want a poor sod slipping off the darn thing, so just wondering if there is a roof product other than colourbond corrugated that might suit this application? I can put in additional rafters etc for additional support if it helps with material choice.

Here’s a pic of what happened 2 hours after it turned up...I couldn’t help myself.


And here is initial site prep being undertaken with a hired 5t - ex. Lots of fun!

[Stix]

Im in a hurry...
But...
Cheapest internal lining is probably plasterboard...but that'll depend on supplier pricing down your way.

With lots of shelves etc...id be going for a structural lining...timber...ply of some sort...or structaflor (particle board flooring)...with 19mm or 22mm flooring you'll be able to fix anything anywhere with a screw... happy days...

The thermal properties will be good too...

Id consider a ventilation system with sarking behind the stud wall to get rid of condensation...its a real timber & steel killer if it cant escape.
It doesnt necessarily have to be elaborate either--just some vermin proof vents down bottom & up top under the roof you propose will do tge trick...

As for not slipping off roof...
There is the commercial galv mesh used for walkways on roofs (eg; access to a/c on commercial buildings)...but thats no doubt expensive...but you could easy hook some ply to it lye down on, or just lay yoga mat on it for shooting...that mesh would be best...

Alternatively look at a no slip trafficable paint or waterproofing membrane over ply sheet/or seal edges of form ply sheets, & build them (almost) level over the roof on the section you want to shoot from.
You could have those sheets "lift on/off" if you wanted to set it up every time...




Or...just hire me to come do it...

[Stix]

Yes...just hire me...
Id so love to claim a hunting trip on tax...

[TassieTiger]

Hahaha - ticket no 472678 lol.
Not sure we’d get much work done - lotsa shooting, lotsa beer tastin...lotsa of - “should probably look at that “ lol.

Thanks for advice.
I’m going shopping tomorrow to get some hardware, insulation, silver wrap and check out some of what you’ve suggested. Game on! Cheers mate.

[Blr243]

Corrugated roofing custom orb can be pitched as low as 5 degrees. Extra battens are a very good idea because otherwise u will just crush it. Trim deck roofing I think u can pitch it at 3 degrees but it will be a bastard to walk on with its high ribs and wide valleys. Whenever I’m asked to sheet a wall on a budget I use 4:5 mm hardiflex. It’s not legal thickness Legal thickness is 6 mm. U gotta be gentle on the 4:5 mm sheet even if your studs are 450 mm apart. I join it with pvc mouldings and do all the finishing work myself. I do this to avoid hiring plasterers. I avoid hiring plasterers because a lot of them are a bit feral.

[Die Judicii]

Corrugated roofing custom orb can be pitched as low as 5 degrees. Extra battens are a very good idea because otherwise u will just crush it. Trim deck roofing I think u can pitch it at 3 degrees but it will be a bastard to walk on with its high ribs and wide valleys. Whenever I’m asked to sheet a wall on a budget I use 4:5 mm hardiflex. It’s not legal thickness Legal thickness is 6 mm. U gotta be gentle on the 4:5 mm sheet even if your studs are 450 mm apart. I join it with pvc mouldings and do all the finishing work myself. I do this to avoid hiring plasterers. I avoid hiring plasterers because a lot of them are a bit feral.

I'd be thinking along the same lines as above,,,,,, plus,,,,,

I have a shipping container here, not as a cabin, but simply for storage.
Problem I have noticed is, termites found their way up through the plywood floor and got stuck into a stack of rosewood that I had.
So I'm guessing if you line it with timber,,,, that is a risk.
So, Buy once,,,, Cry once,,,,,,,,, attitude.
I'd rip out the floor (if its plywood) and replace it with Ally CP.
And use the afore mentioned "hardiflex" (preferably 6mm),,,,,,, cos it's pretty good insulation wise, and the ants can't eat it either.

[Stix]

Termites are unlikely to eat particle board flooring with the glues in it...& the insulative properties should be better than cement sheet...id rather sleep in a timber room than cement sheet room...!!
You can pay a little extra if worried & buy termiflor--its impregnated with a termicide so guarunteed not to get eaten.

Be careful with any metals you put inside as flooring/lining--they offer nothing in the wsy of thermal insulation, & if you dont use a thermal break it will just be like fridge inside & rapidly loose any heat.
Any kind of metal floor will just be like a meat chiller in winter....good if you plan to gut, hang age & eat yr fellow shooter mates in there...

[TassieTiger]

Gents, gents, gents...tassie does have some good qualities lol - no termites down here. Way too cold.
I am thinking corrugated iron might be an ankle twister compared to custom O but custom O is a trip hazard...I’ve seen a photo of the top of a ship container turned into a deck, which is great but the water must go somewhere?
Would this work? - it might be extra $ but...a 2x4 on front edge of container and a 2x2 on back edge - giving 2 inch fall. Then add say treated 90x38 rafters at 360mm intervals and then lay relatively loosely either custom O or corrugated iron - THEN add decking timber on top to sand which the steel to rafters? The narrow spacing of rafters at 50% cover of each steel sheet would help stabilise, the horizontal decking ultimately holding it all in place - yes...my drill will be getting a huge work out...can you even get self tappers that will drill decking, steel, then grab rafters?...The decking would be a nice platform to dance and shoot from but water would still get through 5mm gaps to iron roof below where water could be collected? ...not sure how I’d feel about drinking the water after it running off treated decking but it’s not a huge roof at 2.4 x 6 so a double skin wouldn’t be too ex?

And I agree with concrete sheeting being cold...although I am insulating, I still want it to be cosy and have some warmth...I’ve used hardiflex on some other projects, it’s not fun to work with and even at 4.5mm is pretty darn heavy for size..
But because of weird stud spacing at some locations (opposite windows, doors), I have to span 600mm on the wall cladding in some places - so that rules out plaster really...I also have to think about rigidity when transporting this back to the Bush. I’ll make 4 concrete pillars for final testing place but knowing the truck drivers difficulties in getting the containers on/off it might be knocked about a little...for this reason the veranda and solar equipment will be put on after - although I’ll wire up 3 lights and 2 floods.

Flooring is interesting - I’m putting a small pot belly in as well and was thinking half tiles / half laminate timber if I can find some cheap...but open to other thoughts.

So much to do...no bloody time lol.
I need lists for my lists...

Thanks for all replies and ideas - the beauty of this is, it is what it is...have welder, will change s**t lol.

[Stix]

Tas.
I say again...just hire me...i promise ill ONLY shoot on smoko break, & only drink beer AFTER 4pm...


Yes a deck can work but not your way.
Rafters then turn into floor joists so must be designed to take roof & floor loads (legally) & be able to span that far....your 4x2"s wont do that.

How wide is a container...? (& ill work out the spans for you)

Plasterboard can span 600mm as a lining mate...thats standard for a house.

Although i maintsin, i think structaflor is the best for what you're doing.--its what id do for sure...fix anything to the wall anywhere...

Id use structaflor as flooring right through...then screw down a sheet of villa board (6mm cement sheet) & tile that for the immediate area for heater...

Let me know the width of container & ill send you a diagram of how to build the roof/deck... (hope you can read scribbled building plans)

Or...just hire me...

(You getting the cracked record feeling...a noise repeating over & over...? )

[trekin]

Tas.
I say again...just hire me...i promise ill ONLY shoot on smoko break, & only drink beer AFTER 4pm...


Yes a deck can work but not your way.
Rafters then turn into floor joists so must be designed to take roof & floor loads (legally) & be able to span that far....your 4x2"s wont do that.

How wide is a container...? (& ill work out the spans for you)

Plasterboard can span 600mm as a lining mate...thats standard for a house.

Although i maintsin, i think structaflor is the best for what you're doing.--its what id do for sure...fix anything to the wall anywhere...

Id use structaflor as flooring right through...then screw down a sheet of villa board (6mm cement sheet) & tile that for the immediate area for heater...

Let me know the width of container & ill send you a diagram of how to build the roof/deck... (hope you can read scribbled building plans)

Or...just hire me...

(You getting the cracked record feeling...a noise repeating over & over...? )

Would building code even apply to a nonpermament, shack in the middle of nowhere? Just asking.

[Sergeant Hartman]

Lol stix.... containers are about 2.5m wide and either 20feet or 40feet long. These look like 20foot containers. Plus an overhang I like idea of a decking.

Floor joists are usually what 200x50 aren't they, in timber.

[Stix]

Tas.
I say again...just hire me...i promise ill ONLY shoot on smoko break, & only drink beer AFTER 4pm...


Yes a deck can work but not your way.
Rafters then turn into floor joists so must be designed to take roof & floor loads (legally) & be able to span that far....your 4x2"s wont do that.

How wide is a container...? (& ill work out the spans for you)

Plasterboard can span 600mm as a lining mate...thats standard for a house.

Although i maintsin, i think structaflor is the best for what you're doing.--its what id do for sure...fix anything to the wall anywhere...

Id use structaflor as flooring right through...then screw down a sheet of villa board (6mm cement sheet) & tile that for the immediate area for heater...

Let me know the width of container & ill send you a diagram of how to build the roof/deck... (hope you can read scribbled building plans)

Or...just hire me...

(You getting the cracked record feeling...a noise repeating over & over...? )

Would building code even apply to a nonpermament, shack in the middle of nowhere? Just asking.

Your pretty much on the money Trekin...

Technically, the building code applies everywhere--its legislation, & idividual states can have their own regs to over rule parts of it...
BUT...i doubt the council will be searching out his " not to code" roof decking...

Thing is though, if code & relevant standards (such as Timber Framing Code) is followed, you know its all been engineered, & if "caught" by local government & built to within the scope of relevant Aust standards, you can just submit plans later, & along with a bit of negotiation (pleading for mercy & playing on their empathy) often get away with a retrospective approval instead of being fined & forced to pull it down.
--ive had to negotiate this a few times in the past when ive taken over from dodgy builders doing the wrong thing...

There are also other implications to consider too...such as insurance--if insurance company can demonstrate its not built to Aust Stds, they have the right to not pay out in the event of a claim.

Given it really wont cost that much more to build it correctly vs potentially dangerous &/or costly short cuts, im an advocate for doing it right first time....we wouldnt go on a 4 week off-road trek with cheap road tyres just to save $200...so why not build it once & tick all boxes...

(Case of do as i say, not as i do here...Just dont look in my back at my wood shelters etc...not quite to code... ...).

But, if Tas buddy ol' pal ol' mate bestie bud bud Mc-buddy, would just hire me, i could mitigate the project, build it with the best outcome to boot...!

(Someone unplug that record player... )

Ziad...joist size is determined by loads, height & span...but in this case 8" x 2"'s (190x45's) would be the go...
Can prob use smaller...ill have to check.

[bladeracer]

I’ve received my future shooting shack and I’m starting to sort it all out before having it relocated up the Bush.
I’ve stud lined the walls and cut windows and doors.
What is the cheapest material for internal lining? I was contemplating a Vj tounge and groove lining or perhaps a light marine ply sheeting - but I’m having a lot of shelving, bunk beds for 4, etc meaning lots of brackets on walls so large sheeting will ultimately be a pain - so other ideas?

Also - I’m going to put a 3 or 4% angled roof on the container, with railing and this will become a platform for some prone long distance shooting - but I don’t want a poor sod slipping off the darn thing, so just wondering if there is a roof product other than colourbond corrugated that might suit this application? I can put in additional rafters etc for additional support if it helps with material choice.

Here’s a pic of what happened 2 hours after it turned up...I couldn’t help myself.


And here is initial site prep being undertaken with a hired 5t - ex. Lots of fun!

Particle board flooring, 19mm Yellowtongue is cheap, 3600x900 sheets are under $50 here retail. It's about the same price as 10mm Gyproc. I did the floor, walls and ceiling of my office with it, on my own, and the doors are two-layers of it screwed and glued together.

Far tougher than Gyproc or FC Sheet, and you can screw anything to it anywhere you want.

[Blr243]

No termites in tassie. Really? Wow I just learned something. Does that mean in Victoria they are scarce too because of the cold. Up here in Qld we just assume they are everywhere and hell bent on eating anything they can get to

[Die Judicii]

Termites are unlikely to eat particle board flooring with the glues in it...& the insulative properties should be better than cement sheet...id rather sleep in a timber room than cement sheet room...!!:

Stix,,,,,,,, you gotta learn how to read mate.

(how the hell do ya get contracts done properly if you can't read the plans/blueprints properly in the first place)

I did NOT say the termites ate the floor,,,,, nor did I say it was Particle Board.

I DID say,,,,,,,,, "they found their way up through the floor" but that is entirely different to eating their way through.

And to reiterate,,,,, I said the floor was plywood,,,,,, NOT Particle Board, and my point was that if the container was lined with "timber" (meaning ordinary untreated) it would be a risk of being eaten by termites.

Sheesh

[Stix]

Sheesh

FMD... I rekon...!!!

[Wombat]

No termites in tassie. Really? Wow I just learned something. Does that mean in Victoria they are scarce too because of the cold. Up here in Qld we just assume they are everywhere and hell bent on eating anything they can get to

Sadly no. More active North of the Great Dividing range, but active all over the state.

[Wombat]

The absolute cheapest lining is old crates or packing ply. Somewhere that imports plastic sheets will have a lot of thin spacing mdf, somewhere that imports hvac gear will have big ply boxes, a big motorbike dealer will have thick ply boxes etc etc. Most of these can be gotten for free or a carton for a ute load.
Expanded metal mesh (suitable for the roof) turns up at my local scrap dealer regularly.

[bladeracer]

The absolute cheapest lining is old crates or packing ply. Somewhere that imports plastic sheets will have a lot of thin spacing mdf, somewhere that imports hvac gear will have big ply boxes, a big motorbike dealer will have thick ply boxes etc etc. Most of these can be gotten for free or a carton for a ute load.

Motorcycle crates tend to be a light steel frame wrapped with cardboard these days. I grabbed a bunch of them to bring my bikes over from WA.

One of Bob's favorite claddings here was flattened out 44-gallon drums and 20-litre kero cans.

[Wombat]

Been a while since I was scrounging cheap lining I guess. A mate did his shed out of ply from tobacco kilns, naturally termite proof. Another lined his from packing ply from the Franklin water plant at Kyneton. Cheap stuff is out there, just got to keep your eyes and ears open.

[TassieTiger]

Went to discount timber place and checked some pricing:

Yellow tounge flooring - looks the goods and would be exc to use for ease but expensive at 2.4 x 1.2 = $48 a sheet.
3.6m x 1.2 was $68 a sheet.
12mm mdf was cheapest of timbers at 2.4 x 1.2m $22 a sheet.
Plasterboard was the outright cheapest as Stix said it would be. It’s still an option but I hate working with it because .... I’m useless.

Thin marine ply wasn’t too bad - but spanning 600mm with 5mm thicknply will end in tears I think...

Vj pine lining, wasn’t too bad at 2.05 a lm - worked ou id need 350lms = $720...would be easy to work with as cover is 130 meaning easy to sort windows / door etc.

speaking of which - should I sort windows and doors before lining?? Incase i can’t get sizes I’ve cut etc??


Got back home and started measuring roof area and wind kept blowing tape, so much so, that the ladder I was on, blew over whilst I was on the roof - then the tape measure grew wings and broke into 50 pieces...OK, I admit - sometimes I have an anger issue lol. Need new tape. So frustrated trying to hold timbers and screw s**t, tape measures, etc...by yourself. This is getting bigger than Ben lol. Need more hours...

[JSS]

No you just need to hold a "build & beer" party. Hands down the best way to get s**t done!!

[Sergeant Hartman]

Mate my suggestion... talk to that stix guy... maybe pay him some money and charge him for accommodation. He seems keen enough to do it. I came to the realization, 2 people do work of the (or it is finished in 1/3 of the time) and sometimes getting someone else to do it properly saves a lot of headache in the short and long run.

[Ecobogan]

The lining solution is all very easy mate. All you need to do is wheel that Gixxer thou in sporting a track flogged rear tyre (you may need two) start her up and get into some hearty 3rd gear redline figure 8 burnouts.
This will spray the inside of your cabin with soft compound rubber giving great insulation,act like a padded cell for when the beer tasting goes wayward and be quick and cheap (til you throw a rod) Don't forget either, it'll give a unique organic industrial appearance which I believe is highly sort after amongst Danish and German interior designers which will go beserk on Pinterest rendering good monies.
Just saying

[bladeracer]

Went to discount timber place and checked some pricing:

Yellow tounge flooring - looks the goods and would be exc to use for ease but expensive at 2.4 x 1.2 = $48 a sheet.
3.6m x 1.2 was $68 a sheet.
12mm mdf was cheapest of timbers at 2.4 x 1.2m $22 a sheet.
Plasterboard was the outright cheapest as Stix said it would be. It’s still an option but I hate working with it because .... I’m useless.

Thin marine ply wasn’t too bad - but spanning 600mm with 5mm thicknply will end in tears I think...

Vj pine lining, wasn’t too bad at 2.05 a lm - worked ou id need 350lms = $720...would be easy to work with as cover is 130 meaning easy to sort windows / door etc.

speaking of which - should I sort windows and doors before lining?? Incase i can’t get sizes I’ve cut etc??


Got back home and started measuring roof area and wind kept blowing tape, so much so, that the ladder I was on, blew over whilst I was on the roof - then the tape measure grew wings and broke into 50 pieces...OK, I admit - sometimes I have an anger issue lol. Need new tape. So frustrated trying to hold timbers and screw s**t, tape measures, etc...by yourself. This is getting bigger than Ben lol. Need more hours...

MDF is cheap, I use it for target backing, but it has no structural quality at all. You could line walls and ceiling (not the floor) with it, but you'd need to put the studs and joists closer together, maybe 300mm centres might support it okay. Gyproc can be used like timber paneling, you don't have to finish it. Just put timber laths over the joints if you can't stand seeing them. But it can be more difficult to line the ceiling with on your own if the sheets are large. I put a dropped ceiling in the house in Perth on my own, 6x1.35m sheets were a bitch but I got it done okay using two T-props. The old plasterglass ceiling was falling away from the joists so I built a dropped ceiling 100mm below the old ceiling.
Marine-ply is outstanding, but bloody expensive.
The easiest door frames I've used are the steel, three-piece ones. Push the head into place, then slot the stiles into it, and screw them to the studs. https://www.bunnings.com.au/lynx-2040-x-920mm-n114-3-hinge-right-hand-steel-unassembled-door-frame_p1960123 They come in several widths to fit your wall construction.
Windows will depend on what you design you want. You can simply frame a hole then make the window frame in timber, aluminium or steel to fit it, then order the glazing/perspex to fit that. Or you can buy standard window frames and build them into the wall frame.

[TassieTiger]

The lining solution is all very easy mate. All you need to do is wheel that Gixxer thou in sporting a track flogged rear tyre (you may need two) start her up and get into some hearty 3rd gear redline figure 8 burnouts.
This will spray the inside of your cabin with soft compound rubber giving great insulation,act like a padded cell for when the beer tasting goes wayward and be quick and cheap (til you throw a rod) Don't forget either, it'll give a unique organic industrial appearance which I believe is highly sort after amongst Danish and German interior designers which will go beserk on Pinterest rendering good monies.
Just saying

I like your thinking lol. Speaking of which - did a track day a couple weeks ago, was really damp and my first time on these tyres...struggled to get temp into them but I personally couldn’t fathom the grip available...like 3rd gear, cranked over, feeding in throttle with arse cheek desperately feeling for that “walk”...feeding throttle earlier and earlier...and front starts coming up while cranked - just mind blowing. This is a 195/55...long way over before clearance issues.

[TassieTiger]

Went to discount timber place and checked some pricing:

Yellow tounge flooring - looks the goods and would be exc to use for ease but expensive at 2.4 x 1.2 = $48 a sheet.
3.6m x 1.2 was $68 a sheet.
12mm mdf was cheapest of timbers at 2.4 x 1.2m $22 a sheet.
Plasterboard was the outright cheapest as Stix said it would be. It’s still an option but I hate working with it because .... I’m useless.

Thin marine ply wasn’t too bad - but spanning 600mm with 5mm thicknply will end in tears I think...

Vj pine lining, wasn’t too bad at 2.05 a lm - worked ou id need 350lms = $720...would be easy to work with as cover is 130 meaning easy to sort windows / door etc.

speaking of which - should I sort windows and doors before lining?? Incase i can’t get sizes I’ve cut etc??


Got back home and started measuring roof area and wind kept blowing tape, so much so, that the ladder I was on, blew over whilst I was on the roof - then the tape measure grew wings and broke into 50 pieces...OK, I admit - sometimes I have an anger issue lol. Need new tape. So frustrated trying to hold timbers and screw s**t, tape measures, etc...by yourself. This is getting bigger than Ben lol. Need more hours...

MDF is cheap, I use it for target backing, but it has no structural quality at all. You could line walls and ceiling (not the floor) with it, but you'd need to put the studs and joists closer together, maybe 300mm centres might support it okay. Gyproc can be used like timber paneling, you don't have to finish it. Just put timber lathes over the joints if you can't stand seeing them. But it can be more difficult to line the ceiling with on your own if the sheets are large. I put a dropped ceiling in the house in Perth on my own, 6x1.35m sheets were a bitch but I got it done okay using two T-props. The old plasterglass ceiling was falling away from the joists so I built a dropped ceiling 100mm below the old ceiling.
Marine-ply is outstanding, but bloody expensive.
The easiest door frames I've used are the steel, three-piece ones. Push the head into place, then slot the stiles into it, and screw them to the studs. https://www.bunnings.com.au/lynx-2040-x-920mm-n114-3-hinge-right-hand-steel-unassembled-door-frame_p1960123 They come in several widths to fit your wall construction.
Windows will depend on what you design you want. You can simply frame a hole then make the window frame in timber, aluminium or steel to fit it, then order the glazing/perspex to fit that. Or you can buy standard window frames and build them into the wall frame.

Cheers - I’m sure it would be easier second time round lol. What’s screwing me up a little is I bought a second hand B grade. Not really knowing what that meant - but every wall has dents and twists and NOTHING is bloody square. I’m going to have to bloody bunt some studs to get lining square and flat. Painful and slow..... I’m learning a lot from comments on here as well as hands on mistakes. I’ve seen new external doors and jams for $50 at local seconds place.
A friend reckons he can get me VJ in various lengths to3.6m for $1.50 a lm. So might see if that materialises.
Will def be using yellow T on flooring.
And as you’ve said - I’ll end up building windows myself with Perspex and some oak boards for reveals - using quad to hold glass in. Never built one - should be interesting lol.

[bladeracer]

Cheers - I’m sure it would be easier second time round lol. What’s screwing me up a little is I bought a second hand B grade. Not really knowing what that meant - but every wall has dents and twists and NOTHING is bloody square. I’m going to have to bloody bunt some studs to get lining square and flat. Painful and slow..... I’m learning a lot from comments on here as well as hands on mistakes. I’ve seen new external doors and jams for $50 at local seconds place.
A friend reckons he can get me VJ in various lengths to3.6m for $1.50 a lm. So might see if that materialises.
Will def be using yellow T on flooring.
And as you’ve said - I’ll end up building windows myself with Perspex and some oak boards for reveals - using quad to hold glass in. Never built one - should be interesting lol.

You could also consider lining the outside instead of the inside if you're doing it for insulation rather than aesthetics. You don't lose any internal volume, you can make the wall cavity thicker, it looks better in the yard, you can simply line it with steel, and it disguises the container as a shed.

[Ecobogan]

The lining solution is all very easy mate. All you need to do is wheel that Gixxer thou in sporting a track flogged rear tyre (you may need two) start her up and get into some hearty 3rd gear redline figure 8 burnouts.
This will spray the inside of your cabin with soft compound rubber giving great insulation,act like a padded cell for when the beer tasting goes wayward and be quick and cheap (til you throw a rod) Don't forget either, it'll give a unique organic industrial appearance which I believe is highly sort after amongst Danish and German interior designers which will go beserk on Pinterest rendering good monies.
Just saying

I like your thinking lol. Speaking of which - did a track day a couple weeks ago, was really damp and my first time on these tyres...struggled to get temp into them but I personally couldn’t fathom the grip available...like 3rd gear, cranked over, feeding in throttle with arse cheek desperately feeling for that “walk”...feeding throttle earlier and earlier...and front starts coming up while cranked - just mind blowing. This is a 195/55...long way over before clearance issues.

Right on. I've never run slicks but know it's a fair ask in the damp under power for them to fully behave. I run Dunlop Q2's on the SV with no dramas and have been rude to them at times.
Hey, am gonna have another crack at selling the old girl and failing that will prob part it out as I might've mentioned a while back.
I'll keep you in mind as it's got some bits you might get some use out of. Carbon wheels and an adjustable offset triple clamp suit a K8 1000 amongst others things.
Good luck with the fit out. I've done a fair bit of modwork to 20 &40 fters in the past, have 2 high cubes myself, and used to weld tabs to the buckled corten walls which mounting brackets screw to. You could slide the bracket in or out along the tab to meet the stringline and Tek screw it in place. Probably kinda hard to picture but is quick n easy....if you have a mig or stick nearby.
Can send a sketch no probs if you need

[bladeracer]

Right on. I've never run slicks but know it's a fair ask in the damp under power for them to fully behave. I run Dunlop Q2's on the SV with no dramas and have been rude to them at times.
Hey, am gonna have another crack at selling the old girl and failing that will prob part it out as I might've mentioned a while back.
I'll keep you in mind as it's got some bits you might get some use out of. Carbon wheels and an adjustable offset triple clamp suit a K8 1000 amongst others things.

I've done a lot of racing and track days on slicks, in the rain. You need a lot of standing water before it's a problem. A grooved tyre sacrifices tread area by putting in grooves to pump out standing water. A slick tyre is _all_ tread, so grip is exponentially better, but aquaplanning is more likely in standing water. I managed to get a shot on my cameras showing my front wheel locked while the rear was still doing 150kph, or something like that, running through a puddle while braking into Turn Seven at Wanneroo. During this race I think it was - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0E688_WPpg. Mark, that I'm chasing is also on slicks, but he spent the night cutting grooves in them We're both on 1990 GSXR750L's. Three weeks later I smashed my shoulder stopping my riding.

Slicks in the rain are damned good fun
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kByTK4gmwPQ


Carbon wheels would be neat, but not legal on a racetrack, unless they've changed the rules recently. Only legal if OEM.