Question for the carpenter/ handy man

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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by bladeracer » 05 Apr 2019, 10:33 pm

Wombat wrote:The absolute cheapest lining is old crates or packing ply. Somewhere that imports plastic sheets will have a lot of thin spacing mdf, somewhere that imports hvac gear will have big ply boxes, a big motorbike dealer will have thick ply boxes etc etc. Most of these can be gotten for free or a carton for a ute load.


Motorcycle crates tend to be a light steel frame wrapped with cardboard these days. I grabbed a bunch of them to bring my bikes over from WA.

One of Bob's favorite claddings here was flattened out 44-gallon drums and 20-litre kero cans.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by Wombat » 05 Apr 2019, 10:50 pm

Been a while since I was scrounging cheap lining I guess. A mate did his shed out of ply from tobacco kilns, naturally termite proof. Another lined his from packing ply from the Franklin water plant at Kyneton. Cheap stuff is out there, just got to keep your eyes and ears open.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by TassieTiger » 06 Apr 2019, 12:42 pm

Went to discount timber place and checked some pricing:

Yellow tounge flooring - looks the goods and would be exc to use for ease but expensive at 2.4 x 1.2 = $48 a sheet.
3.6m x 1.2 was $68 a sheet.
12mm mdf was cheapest of timbers at 2.4 x 1.2m $22 a sheet.
Plasterboard was the outright cheapest as Stix said it would be. It’s still an option but I hate working with it because .... I’m useless.

Thin marine ply wasn’t too bad - but spanning 600mm with 5mm thicknply will end in tears I think...

Vj pine lining, wasn’t too bad at 2.05 a lm - worked ou id need 350lms = $720...would be easy to work with as cover is 130 meaning easy to sort windows / door etc.

speaking of which - should I sort windows and doors before lining?? Incase i can’t get sizes I’ve cut etc??


Got back home and started measuring roof area and wind kept blowing tape, so much so, that the ladder I was on, blew over whilst I was on the roof - then the tape measure grew wings and broke into 50 pieces...OK, I admit - sometimes I have an anger issue lol. Need new tape. So frustrated trying to hold timbers and screw s**t, tape measures, etc...by yourself. This is getting bigger than Ben lol. Need more hours...
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by JSS » 06 Apr 2019, 1:05 pm

No you just need to hold a "build & beer" party. Hands down the best way to get s**t done!! :drinks:
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by Sergeant Hartman » 06 Apr 2019, 3:09 pm

Mate my suggestion... talk to that stix guy... maybe pay him some money and charge him for accommodation. He seems keen enough to do it. I came to the realization, 2 people do work of the (or it is finished in 1/3 of the time) and sometimes getting someone else to do it properly saves a lot of headache in the short and long run.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by Ecobogan » 07 Apr 2019, 10:59 am

The lining solution is all very easy mate. All you need to do is wheel that Gixxer thou in sporting a track flogged rear tyre (you may need two) start her up and get into some hearty 3rd gear redline figure 8 burnouts.
This will spray the inside of your cabin with soft compound rubber giving great insulation,act like a padded cell for when the beer tasting goes wayward and be quick and cheap (til you throw a rod) Don't forget either, it'll give a unique organic industrial appearance which I believe is highly sort after amongst Danish and German interior designers which will go beserk on Pinterest rendering good monies.
Just saying
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by bladeracer » 07 Apr 2019, 1:58 pm

TassieTiger wrote:Went to discount timber place and checked some pricing:

Yellow tounge flooring - looks the goods and would be exc to use for ease but expensive at 2.4 x 1.2 = $48 a sheet.
3.6m x 1.2 was $68 a sheet.
12mm mdf was cheapest of timbers at 2.4 x 1.2m $22 a sheet.
Plasterboard was the outright cheapest as Stix said it would be. It’s still an option but I hate working with it because .... I’m useless.

Thin marine ply wasn’t too bad - but spanning 600mm with 5mm thicknply will end in tears I think...

Vj pine lining, wasn’t too bad at 2.05 a lm - worked ou id need 350lms = $720...would be easy to work with as cover is 130 meaning easy to sort windows / door etc.

speaking of which - should I sort windows and doors before lining?? Incase i can’t get sizes I’ve cut etc??


Got back home and started measuring roof area and wind kept blowing tape, so much so, that the ladder I was on, blew over whilst I was on the roof - then the tape measure grew wings and broke into 50 pieces...OK, I admit - sometimes I have an anger issue lol. Need new tape. So frustrated trying to hold timbers and screw s**t, tape measures, etc...by yourself. This is getting bigger than Ben lol. Need more hours...


MDF is cheap, I use it for target backing, but it has no structural quality at all. You could line walls and ceiling (not the floor) with it, but you'd need to put the studs and joists closer together, maybe 300mm centres might support it okay. Gyproc can be used like timber paneling, you don't have to finish it. Just put timber laths over the joints if you can't stand seeing them. But it can be more difficult to line the ceiling with on your own if the sheets are large. I put a dropped ceiling in the house in Perth on my own, 6x1.35m sheets were a bitch but I got it done okay using two T-props. The old plasterglass ceiling was falling away from the joists so I built a dropped ceiling 100mm below the old ceiling.
Marine-ply is outstanding, but bloody expensive.
The easiest door frames I've used are the steel, three-piece ones. Push the head into place, then slot the stiles into it, and screw them to the studs. https://www.bunnings.com.au/lynx-2040-x-920mm-n114-3-hinge-right-hand-steel-unassembled-door-frame_p1960123 They come in several widths to fit your wall construction.
Windows will depend on what you design you want. You can simply frame a hole then make the window frame in timber, aluminium or steel to fit it, then order the glazing/perspex to fit that. Or you can buy standard window frames and build them into the wall frame.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by TassieTiger » 07 Apr 2019, 2:49 pm

Ecobogan wrote:The lining solution is all very easy mate. All you need to do is wheel that Gixxer thou in sporting a track flogged rear tyre (you may need two) start her up and get into some hearty 3rd gear redline figure 8 burnouts.
This will spray the inside of your cabin with soft compound rubber giving great insulation,act like a padded cell for when the beer tasting goes wayward and be quick and cheap (til you throw a rod) Don't forget either, it'll give a unique organic industrial appearance which I believe is highly sort after amongst Danish and German interior designers which will go beserk on Pinterest rendering good monies.
Just saying


I like your thinking lol. Speaking of which - did a track day a couple weeks ago, was really damp and my first time on these tyres...struggled to get temp into them but I personally couldn’t fathom the grip available...like 3rd gear, cranked over, feeding in throttle with arse cheek desperately feeling for that “walk”...feeding throttle earlier and earlier...and front starts coming up while cranked - just mind blowing. This is a 195/55...long way over before clearance issues.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by TassieTiger » 07 Apr 2019, 3:03 pm

bladeracer wrote:
TassieTiger wrote:Went to discount timber place and checked some pricing:

Yellow tounge flooring - looks the goods and would be exc to use for ease but expensive at 2.4 x 1.2 = $48 a sheet.
3.6m x 1.2 was $68 a sheet.
12mm mdf was cheapest of timbers at 2.4 x 1.2m $22 a sheet.
Plasterboard was the outright cheapest as Stix said it would be. It’s still an option but I hate working with it because .... I’m useless.

Thin marine ply wasn’t too bad - but spanning 600mm with 5mm thicknply will end in tears I think...

Vj pine lining, wasn’t too bad at 2.05 a lm - worked ou id need 350lms = $720...would be easy to work with as cover is 130 meaning easy to sort windows / door etc.

speaking of which - should I sort windows and doors before lining?? Incase i can’t get sizes I’ve cut etc??


Got back home and started measuring roof area and wind kept blowing tape, so much so, that the ladder I was on, blew over whilst I was on the roof - then the tape measure grew wings and broke into 50 pieces...OK, I admit - sometimes I have an anger issue lol. Need new tape. So frustrated trying to hold timbers and screw s**t, tape measures, etc...by yourself. This is getting bigger than Ben lol. Need more hours...


MDF is cheap, I use it for target backing, but it has no structural quality at all. You could line walls and ceiling (not the floor) with it, but you'd need to put the studs and joists closer together, maybe 300mm centres might support it okay. Gyproc can be used like timber paneling, you don't have to finish it. Just put timber lathes over the joints if you can't stand seeing them. But it can be more difficult to line the ceiling with on your own if the sheets are large. I put a dropped ceiling in the house in Perth on my own, 6x1.35m sheets were a bitch but I got it done okay using two T-props. The old plasterglass ceiling was falling away from the joists so I built a dropped ceiling 100mm below the old ceiling.
Marine-ply is outstanding, but bloody expensive.
The easiest door frames I've used are the steel, three-piece ones. Push the head into place, then slot the stiles into it, and screw them to the studs. https://www.bunnings.com.au/lynx-2040-x-920mm-n114-3-hinge-right-hand-steel-unassembled-door-frame_p1960123 They come in several widths to fit your wall construction.
Windows will depend on what you design you want. You can simply frame a hole then make the window frame in timber, aluminium or steel to fit it, then order the glazing/perspex to fit that. Or you can buy standard window frames and build them into the wall frame.


Cheers - I’m sure it would be easier second time round lol. What’s screwing me up a little is I bought a second hand B grade. Not really knowing what that meant - but every wall has dents and twists and NOTHING is bloody square. I’m going to have to bloody bunt some studs to get lining square and flat. Painful and slow..... I’m learning a lot from comments on here as well as hands on mistakes. I’ve seen new external doors and jams for $50 at local seconds place.
A friend reckons he can get me VJ in various lengths to3.6m for $1.50 a lm. So might see if that materialises.
Will def be using yellow T on flooring.
And as you’ve said - I’ll end up building windows myself with Perspex and some oak boards for reveals - using quad to hold glass in. Never built one - should be interesting lol.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by bladeracer » 07 Apr 2019, 3:22 pm

TassieTiger wrote:Cheers - I’m sure it would be easier second time round lol. What’s screwing me up a little is I bought a second hand B grade. Not really knowing what that meant - but every wall has dents and twists and NOTHING is bloody square. I’m going to have to bloody bunt some studs to get lining square and flat. Painful and slow..... I’m learning a lot from comments on here as well as hands on mistakes. I’ve seen new external doors and jams for $50 at local seconds place.
A friend reckons he can get me VJ in various lengths to3.6m for $1.50 a lm. So might see if that materialises.
Will def be using yellow T on flooring.
And as you’ve said - I’ll end up building windows myself with Perspex and some oak boards for reveals - using quad to hold glass in. Never built one - should be interesting lol.


You could also consider lining the outside instead of the inside if you're doing it for insulation rather than aesthetics. You don't lose any internal volume, you can make the wall cavity thicker, it looks better in the yard, you can simply line it with steel, and it disguises the container as a shed.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by Ecobogan » 07 Apr 2019, 5:07 pm

TassieTiger wrote:
Ecobogan wrote:The lining solution is all very easy mate. All you need to do is wheel that Gixxer thou in sporting a track flogged rear tyre (you may need two) start her up and get into some hearty 3rd gear redline figure 8 burnouts.
This will spray the inside of your cabin with soft compound rubber giving great insulation,act like a padded cell for when the beer tasting goes wayward and be quick and cheap (til you throw a rod) Don't forget either, it'll give a unique organic industrial appearance which I believe is highly sort after amongst Danish and German interior designers which will go beserk on Pinterest rendering good monies.
Just saying


I like your thinking lol. Speaking of which - did a track day a couple weeks ago, was really damp and my first time on these tyres...struggled to get temp into them but I personally couldn’t fathom the grip available...like 3rd gear, cranked over, feeding in throttle with arse cheek desperately feeling for that “walk”...feeding throttle earlier and earlier...and front starts coming up while cranked - just mind blowing. This is a 195/55...long way over before clearance issues.


Right on. I've never run slicks but know it's a fair ask in the damp under power for them to fully behave. I run Dunlop Q2's on the SV with no dramas and have been rude to them at times.
Hey, am gonna have another crack at selling the old girl and failing that will prob part it out as I might've mentioned a while back.
I'll keep you in mind as it's got some bits you might get some use out of. Carbon wheels and an adjustable offset triple clamp suit a K8 1000 amongst others things.
Good luck with the fit out. I've done a fair bit of modwork to 20 &40 fters in the past, have 2 high cubes myself, and used to weld tabs to the buckled corten walls which mounting brackets screw to. You could slide the bracket in or out along the tab to meet the stringline and Tek screw it in place. Probably kinda hard to picture but is quick n easy....if you have a mig or stick nearby.
Can send a sketch no probs if you need
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by bladeracer » 07 Apr 2019, 6:26 pm

Ecobogan wrote:Right on. I've never run slicks but know it's a fair ask in the damp under power for them to fully behave. I run Dunlop Q2's on the SV with no dramas and have been rude to them at times.
Hey, am gonna have another crack at selling the old girl and failing that will prob part it out as I might've mentioned a while back.
I'll keep you in mind as it's got some bits you might get some use out of. Carbon wheels and an adjustable offset triple clamp suit a K8 1000 amongst others things.


I've done a lot of racing and track days on slicks, in the rain. You need a lot of standing water before it's a problem. A grooved tyre sacrifices tread area by putting in grooves to pump out standing water. A slick tyre is _all_ tread, so grip is exponentially better, but aquaplanning is more likely in standing water. I managed to get a shot on my cameras showing my front wheel locked while the rear was still doing 150kph, or something like that, running through a puddle while braking into Turn Seven at Wanneroo. During this race I think it was - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0E688_WPpg. Mark, that I'm chasing is also on slicks, but he spent the night cutting grooves in them :-) We're both on 1990 GSXR750L's. Three weeks later I smashed my shoulder stopping my riding.

Slicks in the rain are damned good fun :-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kByTK4gmwPQ


Carbon wheels would be neat, but not legal on a racetrack, unless they've changed the rules recently. Only legal if OEM.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by TassieTiger » 07 Apr 2019, 7:38 pm

I’ve used soft slicks and loved everything about them but munlocal tracks kill the left hand side on a day necessitating a tyre flip to save some $$$.
The slicks above were cheapish hard / hard and grip in the damp was inbfknlvable but I couldn’t get the temps up - I didn’t take my tyre warmers out as I like to take a couple laps to warm gear box etc - but front tyre got that blue tinge and cold tear marks that says “hey buddy, these tyres are better than you are a rider” lol.

Was my first day back after 12 months away - you forget how much fun tracks are.

I did PI 3 years ago my first time - iof course it pissed down...I was 4th person out of pits on warm up lap. 3rd rider went down BEFORE 1st corner...bandit 1250. Ole mate in 1st pos highsided himself at Honda hairpin on an Aprilla rsv...at this stage I’m thinking wtf is going on. Then 2nd pos, Ducati 999 lowsided out of MG....I somehow missed all of them but was very confused lol The track was like Ice and 20% of bikes on the day hit the deck. I had some big moments but learnt a lot and stayed up. Was just after new resurface...oily s**t coming to surface.

Waneroo and rain looks like fun - looks like you know what your doing!. It’s quite amazing how much grip you can get in the rain if your smooth. I never got my knee down in rain but was never scared of riding reasonably hard on tyres / bike I knew inside out.

I used to own a short stroke J model 750 (slingshot model - fug I loved that thing) and also a few years later the longer stroke M. In fact, a H model 1100 is coming up for sale in 3 weeks, but I’m not telling you where lol!!!!
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by TassieTiger » 07 Apr 2019, 7:46 pm

Ecobogan wrote:
TassieTiger wrote:
Ecobogan wrote:The lining solution is all very easy mate. All you need to do is wheel that Gixxer thou in sporting a track flogged rear tyre (you may need two) start her up and get into some hearty 3rd gear redline figure 8 burnouts.
This will spray the inside of your cabin with soft compound rubber giving great insulation,act like a padded cell for when the beer tasting goes wayward and be quick and cheap (til you throw a rod) Don't forget either, it'll give a unique organic industrial appearance which I believe is highly sort after amongst Danish and German interior designers which will go beserk on Pinterest rendering good monies.
Just saying


I like your thinking lol. Speaking of which - did a track day a couple weeks ago, was really damp and my first time on these tyres...struggled to get temp into them but I personally couldn’t fathom the grip available...like 3rd gear, cranked over, feeding in throttle with arse cheek desperately feeling for that “walk”...feeding throttle earlier and earlier...and front starts coming up while cranked - just mind blowing. This is a 195/55...long way over before clearance issues.


Right on. I've never run slicks but know it's a fair ask in the damp under power for them to fully behave. I run Dunlop Q2's on the SV with no dramas and have been rude to them at times.
Hey, am gonna have another crack at selling the old girl and failing that will prob part it out as I might've mentioned a while back.
I'll keep you in mind as it's got some bits you might get some use out of. Carbon wheels and an adjustable offset triple clamp suit a K8 1000 amongst others things.
Good luck with the fit out. I've done a fair bit of modwork to 20 &40 fters in the past, have 2 high cubes myself, and used to weld tabs to the buckled corten walls which mounting brackets screw to. You could slide the bracket in or out along the tab to meet the stringline and Tek screw it in place. Probably kinda hard to picture but is quick n easy....if you have a mig or stick nearby.
Can send a sketch no probs if you need


Let me know if you part out - I’ve got a lot going on at moment and poor old SDR1290, gsxr, husky, etc are not getting much of a look in at moment, so missus would kill me if I added another horse to the stable, but carbon wheels are pretty special....slobber slobber. A mate put CF wheels on his superduke...did absolute wonders for handling and wheelstsnds and looked fukn sexy. Flicking it left and right...felt like a 250. My gix is 165kgs at present...cf wheels...hmmmm....lol. I could sneak your bike in behind a false wall in the container? I do love the Suzi v twin...

We need a motorbike thread lol
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CZ455 .22 & Norinco .22 (vtex 4-12, bush 3-9)
ATA 686 U/O 12g & Baikal S/S 12g.
Adler a110 reddot
Sauer 30-06 - VX 3
Howa 300 win mag. SHV 5-20/56
Marlin SBL 45/70
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by bladeracer » 07 Apr 2019, 7:52 pm

TassieTiger wrote:I’ve used soft slicks and loved everything about them but munlocal tracks kill the left hand side on a day necessitating a tyre flip to save some $$$.
The slicks above were cheapish hard / hard and grip in the damp was inbfknlvable but I couldn’t get the temps up - I didn’t take my tyre warmers out as I like to take a couple laps to warm gear box etc - but front tyre got that blue tinge and cold tear marks that says “hey buddy, these tyres are better than you are a rider” lol.

Was my first day back after 12 months away - you forget how much fun tracks are.

I did PI 3 years ago my first time - iof course it pissed down...I was 4th person out of pits on warm up lap. 3rd rider went down BEFORE 1st corner...bandit 1250. Ole mate in 1st pos highsided himself at Honda hairpin on an Aprilla rsv...at this stage I’m thinking wtf is going on. Then 2nd pos, Ducati 999 lowsided out of MG....I somehow missed all of them but was very confused lol The track was like Ice and 20% of bikes on the day hit the deck. I had some big moments but learnt a lot and stayed up. Was just after new resurface...oily s**t coming to surface.

Waneroo and rain looks like fun - looks like you know what your doing!. It’s quite amazing how much grip you can get in the rain if your smooth. I never got my knee down in rain but was never scared of riding reasonably hard on tyres / bike I knew inside out.

I used to own a short stroke J model 750 (slingshot model - fug I loved that thing) and also a few years later the longer stroke M. In fact, a H model 1100 is coming up for sale in 3 weeks, but I’m not telling you where lol!!!!


I never bothered with warmers, just do a hard out lap to try to get some heat into them. Wanneroo eats the right-hand side of the tyres so we swap them around as well.
I had the J but bounced it off the side of a car and bought the L with the insurance payout - on my daughter's birthday, December 8th, 1989. Probably the first one in WA, if not Australia. Started racing on it in 1990. I still have my '85, '90 and '98 GSXR750's, but can't ride anymore. Not sure what I'll end up doing with all my bikes.
I did a track day at PI in '04 after breaking a pile of ribs, and my left shoulder at Wanneroo. Somebody totally destroyed a brand new ZX10R high-siding it out of turn 11.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by TassieTiger » 07 Apr 2019, 8:36 pm

That 85 will be worth $$$.
I literally just sold a pop up head light katana...made a good $ on it. That’s what I’m planning on doing with this coming 85 for sale...fix it up and see what it’s worth.

Getting old sux mate...really does. I can feel it catching up with me now...the big gix is a handful now and one decent off and...

The J model was my first proper big bike and the feeling of acceleration just hooked me for ever...the Kayto was my first bike with any electronics and I really went overboard with the gt - it has it all. But doesn’t detract like I thought it might...

A few years ago, mate of mine from SA did a track day at Pi and broke a couple ribs and fractured his forearm arm. Despite his protests, They bloody air lifted him to Melb - when he got home, he had a $20,000 bill waiting for him for aircraft, etc. Not exactly sure wtf of all details but he was devestated...he said he could have driven himself, got a taxi, a road ambulance, a bloody limo - the problem was he was okay in his mind, but they were being cautious as hell.
Put all of us on notice when we there - that’s for sure!
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by bladeracer » 07 Apr 2019, 8:58 pm

TassieTiger wrote:That 85 will be worth $$$.
I literally just sold a pop up head light katana...made a good $ on it. That’s what I’m planning on doing with this coming 85 for sale...fix it up and see what it’s worth.

Getting old sux mate...really does. I can feel it catching up with me now...the big gix is a handful now and one decent off and...

The J model was my first proper big bike and the feeling of acceleration just hooked me for ever...the Kayto was my first bike with any electronics and I really went overboard with the gt - it has it all. But doesn’t detract like I thought it might...

A few years ago, mate of mine from SA did a track day at Pi and broke a couple ribs and fractured his forearm arm. Despite his protests, They bloody air lifted him to Melb - when he got home, he had a $20,000 bill waiting for him for aircraft, etc. Not exactly sure wtf of all details but he was devestated...he said he could have driven himself, got a taxi, a road ambulance, a bloody limo - the problem was he was okay in his mind, but they were being cautious as hell.
Put all of us on notice when we there - that’s for sure!


Same thing happened to one of our guys that came across last year for the Island Classic, got taken out by a mate of mine and air-lifted to Alfred because he was unconscious. $10K bill for a broken collarbone. Ended up having to sell the GPZ900R he'd been building to race.
I'm sure they do it just for the money as PI probably pay them nothing to have the chopper sitting there.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by Ecobogan » 07 Apr 2019, 10:02 pm

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bladeracer wrote:
Ecobogan wrote:Right on. I've never run slicks but know it's a fair ask in the damp under power for them to fully behave. I run Dunlop Q2's on the SV with no dramas and have been rude to them at times.
Hey, am gonna have another crack at selling the old girl and failing that will prob part it out as I might've mentioned a while back.
I'll keep you in mind as it's got some bits you might get some use out of. Carbon wheels and an adjustable offset triple clamp suit a K8 1000 amongst others things.


I've done a lot of racing and track days on slicks, in the rain. You need a lot of standing water before it's a problem. A grooved tyre sacrifices tread area by putting in grooves to pump out standing water. A slick tyre is _all_ tread, so grip is exponentially better, but aquaplanning is more likely in standing water. I managed to get a shot on my cameras showing my front wheel locked while the rear was still doing 150kph, or something like that, running through a puddle while braking into Turn Seven at Wanneroo. During this race I think it was - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0E688_WPpg. Mark, that I'm chasing is also on slicks, but he spent the night cutting grooves in them :-) We're both on 1990 GSXR750L's. Three weeks later I smashed my shoulder stopping my riding.

Slicks in the rain are damned good fun :-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kByTK4gmwPQ


Carbon wheels would be neat, but not legal on a racetrack, unless they've changed the rules recently. Only legal if OEM.


Ha! There you go... didn't realize that you were a rider. Yep get it on the grooves squeezing the water out....raced go karts for a season years back and slicks could be nasty fun in even mild damp. That was in Tennant creek, often in 40 Deg heat at the old airport where the races were held, the slicks would get that hot they would fuse to bitumen in the pits between heats! Super soft compounds tho.
At that time I had a K model GSXR750, bought it crashed, got an L model front end for it...first of the USD forks iirc. Great first big bike and no speed limits in the NT back then. Great times.

Indeed we need a bike thread Tassie and will keep you posted on which way it all goes with the SV. ..very tempting to keep a 170horse V-twin....but.
Gonna do that electric buggy too...scored near all the running gear off a mate just recently. 350hp 480 ft/lbs...450 kg. Should be wild enough
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by bladeracer » 08 Apr 2019, 4:39 pm

Ecobogan wrote:Ha! There you go... didn't realize that you were a rider. Yep get it on the grooves squeezing the water out....raced go karts for a season years back and slicks could be nasty fun in even mild damp. That was in Tennant creek, often in 40 Deg heat at the old airport where the races were held, the slicks would get that hot they would fuse to bitumen in the pits between heats! Super soft compounds tho.
At that time I had a K model GSXR750, bought it crashed, got an L model front end for it...first of the USD forks iirc. Great first big bike and no speed limits in the NT back then. Great times.

Indeed we need a bike thread Tassie and will keep you posted on which way it all goes with the SV. ..very tempting to keep a 170horse V-twin....but.
Gonna do that electric buggy too...scored near all the running gear off a mate just recently. 350hp 480 ft/lbs...450 kg. Should be wild enough


Wow! I grew up in Tennant Creek, had no idea they have a race track of any kind.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by Stix » 08 Apr 2019, 5:48 pm

Hey guys...before i went away on the weekend i was in this building thread where the guy was lining a container... :?

You guys got any idea where it went...?

Im sure i last seen it around here somewhere... ...now i cant seem to find it... :unknown:

All i can see is what appears to be a couple of old bike tyres, a motorbike chain, & an oil stain on the concrete... :problem:

8-)
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by Apollo » 08 Apr 2019, 6:30 pm

It went west real quick.

Might have been the old smelly oil rag someone found in the rubbish.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by Ecobogan » 09 Apr 2019, 8:06 am

bladeracer wrote:
Ecobogan wrote:Ha! There you go... didn't realize that you were a rider. Yep get it on the grooves squeezing the water out....raced go karts for a season years back and slicks could be nasty fun in even mild damp. That was in Tennant creek, often in 40 Deg heat at the old airport where the races were held, the slicks would get that hot they would fuse to bitumen in the pits between heats! Super soft compounds tho.
At that time I had a K model GSXR750, bought it crashed, got an L model front end for it...first of the USD forks iirc. Great first big bike and no speed limits in the NT back then. Great times.

Indeed we need a bike thread Tassie and will keep you posted on which way it all goes with the SV. ..very tempting to keep a 170horse V-twin....but.
Gonna do that electric buggy too...scored near all the running gear off a mate just recently. 350hp 480 ft/lbs...450 kg. Should be wild enough


Wow! I grew up in Tennant Creek, had no idea they have a race track of any kind.



You've got to be kidding me! Grew up there!? I was there '94-'95. The races were held at down the end of the old airport which I think still got some landings from time to time. Also just outside the township of Warrego and of course the annual street race....where I crashed spectacularly and nearly took my old man out!
So no actual race tracks, more make do. Was awesome fun, near everyone had a kart.
Saw the cannon ball run come through in '94 too and have great memories of Tennant
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by Ecobogan » 09 Apr 2019, 8:12 am

Stix wrote:Hey guys...before i went away on the weekend i was in this building thread where the guy was lining a container... :?

You guys got any idea where it went...?

Im sure i last seen it around here somewhere... ...now i cant seem to find it... :unknown:

All i can see is what appears to be a couple of old bike tyres, a motorbike chain, & an oil stain on the concrete... :problem:

8-)



Hahahahahaha!!!!
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by TassieTiger » 09 Apr 2019, 9:53 am

Stix wrote:Hey guys...before i went away on the weekend i was in this building thread where the guy was lining a container... :?

You guys got any idea where it went...?

Im sure i last seen it around here somewhere... ...now i cant seem to find it... :unknown:

All i can see is what appears to be a couple of old bike tyres, a motorbike chain, & an oil stain on the concrete... :problem:

8-)


Literally, sitting at my desk at work and started laughing, ppl wondering wtf I’m on lol stix.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by sungazer » 09 Apr 2019, 11:51 am

One of the best woods for so many purposes that is relative cheap for what it is. I have found is Formply it is 17mm strong and it has a coating that makes it flat no need to paint and is waterproof to a point. There are a couple of grades but not a huge difference in price between the structural and no structural.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by bladeracer » 09 Apr 2019, 4:04 pm

Ecobogan wrote:You've got to be kidding me! Grew up there!? I was there '94-'95. The races were held at down the end of the old airport which I think still got some landings from time to time. Also just outside the township of Warrego and of course the annual street race....where I crashed spectacularly and nearly took my old man out!
So no actual race tracks, more make do. Was awesome fun, near everyone had a kart.
Saw the cannon ball run come through in '94 too and have great memories of Tennant


We moved over to South Hedland in '74. Went through Darwin just before Tracey did. My dad had the Ampol Depot trucking fuel all over the northeast, and a pizza shop in town, and my mum was accountant at some gold mines, mainly Friendly Creek. I think the population would've only been a few hundred back then.

I haven't raced go-karts but I did get roped into spending an afternoon going in circles at Cockburn Raceway to run in a mate's kart because he couldn't get time off work and was racing it the next day. Karts are brutal on the body, but damned good fun. I have been T-boned and rolled a kart destroying a brand new helmet I'd just bought to replace one I'd destroyed on the track :-)
We raced street circuits in WA years ago, Collie, Merriden, Mingenew, Albany, Geraldton, and others. I loved those, but purpose-built circuits are far safer.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by bladeracer » 09 Apr 2019, 4:17 pm

sungazer wrote:One of the best woods for so many purposes that is relative cheap for what it is. I have found is Formply it is 17mm strong and it has a coating that makes it flat no need to paint and is waterproof to a point. There are a couple of grades but not a huge difference in price between the structural and no structural.


Formply is excellent, but significantly more expensive than 19mm particle board flooring. Where I am, the 19mm Yellow Tongue retails for $47 for a 3600mmx900mm sheet, 17mm Formply is $55 for a 2400x1200mm sheet. $14.50/m2 compared to $19/m2. The Formply is also only available in 2400mm sheet lengths. The Formply is certainly much tougher than the Yellow Tongue though, and a bit lighter.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by Stix » 10 Apr 2019, 8:39 am

bladeracer wrote:
sungazer wrote:One of the best woods for so many purposes that is relative cheap for what it is. I have found is Formply it is 17mm strong and it has a coating that makes it flat no need to paint and is waterproof to a point. There are a couple of grades but not a huge difference in price between the structural and no structural.


Formply is excellent, but significantly more expensive than 19mm particle board flooring. Where I am, the 19mm Yellow Tongue retails for $47 for a 3600mmx900mm sheet, 17mm Formply is $55 for a 2400x1200mm sheet. $14.50/m2 compared to $19/m2. The Formply is also only available in 2400mm sheet lengths. The Formply is certainly much tougher than the Yellow Tongue though, and a bit lighter.


Good suggestion Sungazer... :thumbsup:
Im a great fan of ply, its very strong even without being structural...
The shelves of my reloading bench are all from left over form ply--easy to dust (yea rite...like i dust anything :roll: ), & cant see all the gun powder dribbles easily (until i put my glasses on anyway)... :lol:

The biggest issue in choosing between these 2 man made prodocts is coating...

The structaflor has a wax type coating, so if you want it painted this needs to be stripped off...its a simple process, however wouldnt be my favourite thing to do with a lot of sheets.
Personally, i think it would be best done with a floor sander prior instsllation.
You'd get all sheets for a contsiner done in well under an hour this way... :thumbsup:

You could then get away with painting ot in an self priming exterior acrylic paint like a good dulux weathershield if wanting one simple product.
Or use a good interior paint & sealer/undercoat for better cleaning ability...(so the "Stix woz ere" i write on the wall in deer blood with my finger while im down there building it for you can be easily removed with a sponge)... 8-)

With form.ply, you dont "need" to paint it...but then your stuck with black walls inside...
If you dont want black walls, painting form ply is a hassle...you have to cut (etch) the surface with a sander, remove all dust properly, then prime with a high quality primer, then top coat in whatever you choose.
Preperation is key (haha--funny pun rite there...! :lol: ) if painting form ply--remember its is designed so stuff DOESNT stick to it...!...so like painting steel or alloy, if prep is not done right, coating will de-laminate pretty easy & leave you feeling pretty disheartened when the paint peels off in sheets ...

:drinks:
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by Die Judicii » 10 Apr 2019, 9:04 am

Stix wrote:...!...so like painting alloy, if prep is not done right, coating will de-laminate pretty easy & leave you feeling pretty disheartened when the paint peels off in sheets ...


That's probably ( :lol: :allegedly: ) why " etch primer " was invented in the 1st place.
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Re: Question for the carpenter/ handy man

Post by TassieTiger » 10 Apr 2019, 10:32 am

Stix wrote:
bladeracer wrote:
sungazer wrote:One of the best woods for so many purposes that is relative cheap for what it is. I have found is Formply it is 17mm strong and it has a coating that makes it flat no need to paint and is waterproof to a point. There are a couple of grades but not a huge difference in price between the structural and no structural.


Formply is excellent, but significantly more expensive than 19mm particle board flooring. Where I am, the 19mm Yellow Tongue retails for $47 for a 3600mmx900mm sheet, 17mm Formply is $55 for a 2400x1200mm sheet. $14.50/m2 compared to $19/m2. The Formply is also only available in 2400mm sheet lengths. The Formply is certainly much tougher than the Yellow Tongue though, and a bit lighter.


Good suggestion Sungazer... :thumbsup:
Im a great fan of ply, its very strong even without being structural...
The shelves of my reloading bench are all from left over form ply--easy to dust (yea rite...like i dust anything :roll: ), & cant see all the gun powder dribbles easily (until i put my glasses on anyway)... :lol:

The biggest issue in choosing between these 2 man made prodocts is coating...

The structaflor has a wax type coating, so if you want it painted this needs to be stripped off...its a simple process, however wouldnt be my favourite thing to do with a lot of sheets.
Personally, i think it would be best done with a floor sander prior instsllation.
You'd get all sheets for a contsiner done in well under an hour this way... :thumbsup:

You could then get away with painting ot in an self priming exterior acrylic paint like a good dulux weathershield if wanting one simple product.
Or use a good interior paint & sealer/undercoat for better cleaning ability...(so the "Stix woz ere" i write on the wall in deer blood with my finger while im down there building it for you can be easily removed with a sponge)... 8-)

With form.ply, you dont "need" to paint it...but then your stuck with black walls inside...
If you dont want black walls, painting form ply is a hassle...you have to cut (etch) the surface with a sander, remove all dust properly, then prime with a high quality primer, then top coat in whatever you choose.
Preperation is key (haha--funny pun rite there...! :lol: ) if painting form ply--remember its is designed so stuff DOESNT stick to it...!...so like painting steel or alloy, if prep is not done right, coating will de-laminate pretty easy & leave you feeling pretty disheartened when the paint peels off in sheets ...

:drinks:


So after all of the considerations of timber - I’ve now found pine tounge/groove for 1.10 a metre. Might be a few more nails. It will look better in the end. The problem might be squeezing the insulation in behind such a thin board...creeaakkk. Lol.

See if your still thinking about flooring after your “care” package arrives Stix...sent today. Good luck lol
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