Question for the carpenter/ handy man

[bladeracer]

Ha! There you go... didn't realize that you were a rider. Yep get it on the grooves squeezing the water out....raced go karts for a season years back and slicks could be nasty fun in even mild damp. That was in Tennant creek, often in 40 Deg heat at the old airport where the races were held, the slicks would get that hot they would fuse to bitumen in the pits between heats! Super soft compounds tho.
At that time I had a K model GSXR750, bought it crashed, got an L model front end for it...first of the USD forks iirc. Great first big bike and no speed limits in the NT back then. Great times.

Indeed we need a bike thread Tassie and will keep you posted on which way it all goes with the SV. ..very tempting to keep a 170horse V-twin....but.
Gonna do that electric buggy too...scored near all the running gear off a mate just recently. 350hp 480 ft/lbs...450 kg. Should be wild enough

Wow! I grew up in Tennant Creek, had no idea they have a race track of any kind.

[Stix]

Hey guys...before i went away on the weekend i was in this building thread where the guy was lining a container...

You guys got any idea where it went...?

Im sure i last seen it around here somewhere... ...now i cant seem to find it...

All i can see is what appears to be a couple of old bike tyres, a motorbike chain, & an oil stain on the concrete...

[Apollo]

It went west real quick.

Might have been the old smelly oil rag someone found in the rubbish.

[Ecobogan]

Ha! There you go... didn't realize that you were a rider. Yep get it on the grooves squeezing the water out....raced go karts for a season years back and slicks could be nasty fun in even mild damp. That was in Tennant creek, often in 40 Deg heat at the old airport where the races were held, the slicks would get that hot they would fuse to bitumen in the pits between heats! Super soft compounds tho.
At that time I had a K model GSXR750, bought it crashed, got an L model front end for it...first of the USD forks iirc. Great first big bike and no speed limits in the NT back then. Great times.

Indeed we need a bike thread Tassie and will keep you posted on which way it all goes with the SV. ..very tempting to keep a 170horse V-twin....but.
Gonna do that electric buggy too...scored near all the running gear off a mate just recently. 350hp 480 ft/lbs...450 kg. Should be wild enough

Wow! I grew up in Tennant Creek, had no idea they have a race track of any kind.

You've got to be kidding me! Grew up there!? I was there '94-'95. The races were held at down the end of the old airport which I think still got some landings from time to time. Also just outside the township of Warrego and of course the annual street race....where I crashed spectacularly and nearly took my old man out!
So no actual race tracks, more make do. Was awesome fun, near everyone had a kart.
Saw the cannon ball run come through in '94 too and have great memories of Tennant

[Ecobogan]

Hey guys...before i went away on the weekend i was in this building thread where the guy was lining a container...

You guys got any idea where it went...?

Im sure i last seen it around here somewhere... ...now i cant seem to find it...

All i can see is what appears to be a couple of old bike tyres, a motorbike chain, & an oil stain on the concrete...

Hahahahahaha!!!!

[TassieTiger]

Hey guys...before i went away on the weekend i was in this building thread where the guy was lining a container...

You guys got any idea where it went...?

Im sure i last seen it around here somewhere... ...now i cant seem to find it...

All i can see is what appears to be a couple of old bike tyres, a motorbike chain, & an oil stain on the concrete...

Literally, sitting at my desk at work and started laughing, ppl wondering wtf I’m on lol stix.

[sungazer]

One of the best woods for so many purposes that is relative cheap for what it is. I have found is Formply it is 17mm strong and it has a coating that makes it flat no need to paint and is waterproof to a point. There are a couple of grades but not a huge difference in price between the structural and no structural.

[bladeracer]

You've got to be kidding me! Grew up there!? I was there '94-'95. The races were held at down the end of the old airport which I think still got some landings from time to time. Also just outside the township of Warrego and of course the annual street race....where I crashed spectacularly and nearly took my old man out!
So no actual race tracks, more make do. Was awesome fun, near everyone had a kart.
Saw the cannon ball run come through in '94 too and have great memories of Tennant

We moved over to South Hedland in '74. Went through Darwin just before Tracey did. My dad had the Ampol Depot trucking fuel all over the northeast, and a pizza shop in town, and my mum was accountant at some gold mines, mainly Friendly Creek. I think the population would've only been a few hundred back then.

I haven't raced go-karts but I did get roped into spending an afternoon going in circles at Cockburn Raceway to run in a mate's kart because he couldn't get time off work and was racing it the next day. Karts are brutal on the body, but damned good fun. I have been T-boned and rolled a kart destroying a brand new helmet I'd just bought to replace one I'd destroyed on the track
We raced street circuits in WA years ago, Collie, Merriden, Mingenew, Albany, Geraldton, and others. I loved those, but purpose-built circuits are far safer.

[bladeracer]

One of the best woods for so many purposes that is relative cheap for what it is. I have found is Formply it is 17mm strong and it has a coating that makes it flat no need to paint and is waterproof to a point. There are a couple of grades but not a huge difference in price between the structural and no structural.

Formply is excellent, but significantly more expensive than 19mm particle board flooring. Where I am, the 19mm Yellow Tongue retails for $47 for a 3600mmx900mm sheet, 17mm Formply is $55 for a 2400x1200mm sheet. $14.50/m2 compared to $19/m2. The Formply is also only available in 2400mm sheet lengths. The Formply is certainly much tougher than the Yellow Tongue though, and a bit lighter.

[Stix]

One of the best woods for so many purposes that is relative cheap for what it is. I have found is Formply it is 17mm strong and it has a coating that makes it flat no need to paint and is waterproof to a point. There are a couple of grades but not a huge difference in price between the structural and no structural.

Formply is excellent, but significantly more expensive than 19mm particle board flooring. Where I am, the 19mm Yellow Tongue retails for $47 for a 3600mmx900mm sheet, 17mm Formply is $55 for a 2400x1200mm sheet. $14.50/m2 compared to $19/m2. The Formply is also only available in 2400mm sheet lengths. The Formply is certainly much tougher than the Yellow Tongue though, and a bit lighter.

Good suggestion Sungazer...
Im a great fan of ply, its very strong even without being structural...
The shelves of my reloading bench are all from left over form ply--easy to dust (yea rite...like i dust anything ), & cant see all the gun powder dribbles easily (until i put my glasses on anyway)...

The biggest issue in choosing between these 2 man made prodocts is coating...

The structaflor has a wax type coating, so if you want it painted this needs to be stripped off...its a simple process, however wouldnt be my favourite thing to do with a lot of sheets.
Personally, i think it would be best done with a floor sander prior instsllation.
You'd get all sheets for a contsiner done in well under an hour this way...

You could then get away with painting ot in an self priming exterior acrylic paint like a good dulux weathershield if wanting one simple product.
Or use a good interior paint & sealer/undercoat for better cleaning ability...(so the "Stix woz ere" i write on the wall in deer blood with my finger while im down there building it for you can be easily removed with a sponge)...

With form.ply, you dont "need" to paint it...but then your stuck with black walls inside...
If you dont want black walls, painting form ply is a hassle...you have to cut (etch) the surface with a sander, remove all dust properly, then prime with a high quality primer, then top coat in whatever you choose.
Preperation is key (haha--funny pun rite there...! ) if painting form ply--remember its is designed so stuff DOESNT stick to it...!...so like painting steel or alloy, if prep is not done right, coating will de-laminate pretty easy & leave you feeling pretty disheartened when the paint peels off in sheets ...

[Die Judicii]

...!...so like painting alloy, if prep is not done right, coating will de-laminate pretty easy & leave you feeling pretty disheartened when the paint peels off in sheets ...

That's probably ( ) why " etch primer " was invented in the 1st place.

[TassieTiger]

One of the best woods for so many purposes that is relative cheap for what it is. I have found is Formply it is 17mm strong and it has a coating that makes it flat no need to paint and is waterproof to a point. There are a couple of grades but not a huge difference in price between the structural and no structural.

Formply is excellent, but significantly more expensive than 19mm particle board flooring. Where I am, the 19mm Yellow Tongue retails for $47 for a 3600mmx900mm sheet, 17mm Formply is $55 for a 2400x1200mm sheet. $14.50/m2 compared to $19/m2. The Formply is also only available in 2400mm sheet lengths. The Formply is certainly much tougher than the Yellow Tongue though, and a bit lighter.

Good suggestion Sungazer...
Im a great fan of ply, its very strong even without being structural...
The shelves of my reloading bench are all from left over form ply--easy to dust (yea rite...like i dust anything ), & cant see all the gun powder dribbles easily (until i put my glasses on anyway)...

The biggest issue in choosing between these 2 man made prodocts is coating...

The structaflor has a wax type coating, so if you want it painted this needs to be stripped off...its a simple process, however wouldnt be my favourite thing to do with a lot of sheets.
Personally, i think it would be best done with a floor sander prior instsllation.
You'd get all sheets for a contsiner done in well under an hour this way...

You could then get away with painting ot in an self priming exterior acrylic paint like a good dulux weathershield if wanting one simple product.
Or use a good interior paint & sealer/undercoat for better cleaning ability...(so the "Stix woz ere" i write on the wall in deer blood with my finger while im down there building it for you can be easily removed with a sponge)...

With form.ply, you dont "need" to paint it...but then your stuck with black walls inside...
If you dont want black walls, painting form ply is a hassle...you have to cut (etch) the surface with a sander, remove all dust properly, then prime with a high quality primer, then top coat in whatever you choose.
Preperation is key (haha--funny pun rite there...! ) if painting form ply--remember its is designed so stuff DOESNT stick to it...!...so like painting steel or alloy, if prep is not done right, coating will de-laminate pretty easy & leave you feeling pretty disheartened when the paint peels off in sheets ...

So after all of the considerations of timber - I’ve now found pine tounge/groove for 1.10 a metre. Might be a few more nails. It will look better in the end. The problem might be squeezing the insulation in behind such a thin board...creeaakkk. Lol.

See if your still thinking about flooring after your “care” package arrives Stix...sent today. Good luck lol

[Stix]

One of the best woods for so many purposes that is relative cheap for what it is. I have found is Formply it is 17mm strong and it has a coating that makes it flat no need to paint and is waterproof to a point. There are a couple of grades but not a huge difference in price between the structural and no structural.

Formply is excellent, but significantly more expensive than 19mm particle board flooring. Where I am, the 19mm Yellow Tongue retails for $47 for a 3600mmx900mm sheet, 17mm Formply is $55 for a 2400x1200mm sheet. $14.50/m2 compared to $19/m2. The Formply is also only available in 2400mm sheet lengths. The Formply is certainly much tougher than the Yellow Tongue though, and a bit lighter.

Good suggestion Sungazer...
Im a great fan of ply, its very strong even without being structural...
The shelves of my reloading bench are all from left over form ply--easy to dust (yea rite...like i dust anything ), & cant see all the gun powder dribbles easily (until i put my glasses on anyway)...

The biggest issue in choosing between these 2 man made prodocts is coating...

The structaflor has a wax type coating, so if you want it painted this needs to be stripped off...its a simple process, however wouldnt be my favourite thing to do with a lot of sheets.
Personally, i think it would be best done with a floor sander prior instsllation.
You'd get all sheets for a contsiner done in well under an hour this way...

You could then get away with painting ot in an self priming exterior acrylic paint like a good dulux weathershield if wanting one simple product.
Or use a good interior paint & sealer/undercoat for better cleaning ability...(so the "Stix woz ere" i write on the wall in deer blood with my finger while im down there building it for you can be easily removed with a sponge)...

With form.ply, you dont "need" to paint it...but then your stuck with black walls inside...
If you dont want black walls, painting form ply is a hassle...you have to cut (etch) the surface with a sander, remove all dust properly, then prime with a high quality primer, then top coat in whatever you choose.
Preperation is key (haha--funny pun rite there...! ) if painting form ply--remember its is designed so stuff DOESNT stick to it...!...so like painting steel or alloy, if prep is not done right, coating will de-laminate pretty easy & leave you feeling pretty disheartened when the paint peels off in sheets ...

So after all of the considerations of timber - I’ve now found pine tounge/groove for 1.10 a metre. Might be a few more nails. It will look better in the end. The problem might be squeezing the insulation in behind such a thin board...creeaakkk. Lol.

See if your still thinking about flooring after your “care” package arrives Stix...sent today. Good luck lol

Are you saying im disabled...you're probably right... ...i like care packages...

Cost out the sq/m rate of T&G board..dont forget to add waste--& keep in mind, the bigger the support centres the larger the waste....& also consider how you lay it--lots of people decide laying that stuff on an angle will look much better, then the waste goes up & they run short of boards, thus costing more...
Then they realise painting is so much cheaper than poly eurathane & end up painting, in which case would've been cheaper to stick with plan A...

Not suggesting anything in particular, just saying to be aware of total project including finishes (if any)....calculate all costs mate so you dont surprise yourself & waste money...

[TassieTiger]

I am hearing you - absolutely.
The price I’ve been quoted on this stuff is only available IF I buy 1000metres - (only need 400) BUT, the same grade in Bunnings is $4 a lm. SO - I’m thinking...as you do...buy the 1000, do what I need and I sell the remainder at $2 and cover some costs...maybe. And it’s a big maybe...
Ps - you might be disabled if you don’t mix anything with the care package lol. Not sure what it’s like - everyone has different tastes...getting in early incase it’s poo.let me know on that one, got some more maturing in a month...Better, I hope.

[Stix]

I am hearing you - absolutely.
The price I’ve been quoted on this stuff is only available IF I buy 1000metres - (only need 400) BUT, the same grade in Bunnings is $4 a lm. SO - I’m thinking...as you do...buy the 1000, do what I need and I sell the remainder at $2 and cover some costs...maybe. And it’s a big maybe...
Ps - you might be disabled if you don’t mix anything with the care package lol. Not sure what it’s like - everyone has different tastes...getting in early incase it’s poo.let me know on that one, got some more maturing in a month...Better, I hope.

1000 l/m eh...sell the rest to cover some costs...
Love the thinking mate.....just how i think too...!!
And to put it in perspective i have a few km's of decking clogging up my shed because of that way of thinking...

Consider storage & transport of the remaining timber...time is money...but then the profit could go to professional trade help- --just saying...

Then, after ive built it i could be living in there & shootin while you're stuffin 600 l/m of TnG match board in everyone you know's shed... ...


(Im going with the Bart Simpson logic...keep hinting until there's a slip-up "yes"... )

[TassieTiger]

Haha...yes I’m hearing you...but one day...that decking will me needed...one day indeed!!!!

Built my first window last night in the dark after work...this morning I had a quick look before heading to work - should have built it in day light lol.

[Sergeant Hartman]

Lol my logic is nearly the same.... but I usually look for a tool to buy before starting a new job

[Stix]

Haha...yes I’m hearing you...but one day...that decking will me needed...one day indeed!!!!

Built my first window last night in the dark after work...this morning I had a quick look before heading to work - should have built it in day light lol.

[TassieTiger]

I’d just like to say on some type of official type forum - VJ pine line can get rooted. I hate it. It bends in 6 dimensions and doesn’t ever line up...some boards don’t have a groove, some don’t have a tounge, some have 50/50...that being said, one wall done...I hate it. I hate it. I’m going to farkin shoot it!

[bladeracer]

I’d just like to say on some type of official type forum - VJ pine line can get rooted. I hate it. It bends in 6 dimensions and doesn’t ever line up...some boards don’t have a groove, some don’t have a tounge, some have 50/50...that being said, one wall done...I hate it. I hate it. I’m going to farkin shoot it!

Looks like you got a very nice result though
I've found with any T&G flooring it's worth paying more for best quality. We bought a pile of 300mm teak T&G tiles cheap left over from a big job to do the whole house. What a nightmare that was! We ended up having to cut them to size and recut the tongues and grooves on a router table. The result was nice but the job was several times more work than it should've been.

[TassieTiger]

Your 100% correct. Same going on here...and same with the actual body of the container.
I bought a middle ground container thinking it would be straight but it has dents in it in many places...dents that mean nothing at first glance but mean everything when trying to string line the studs on the walls...you save some money buying less than perfect but then spend more time getting things right...
At the end of the day, this will be a stay over base camp / office / maybe even an air bnb if ppl are game lol, so I want it reasonable but it doesn’t need to be perfect...that being said...when Stix ends up getting to tassie for his first fallow hunt in the snow, he will need somewhere warm to get back too

I did say a while back I’d open it up to some like minded members on here for an empty case from their fav rifle.

Was also pointed out to me - with the insulation in the walls, roof and sisolation being used as well, it’s not going to need much of a heater - so need to be careful I don’t turn it into an oven...meaning my initial pot belly stove idea is out...not sure how to fix that. It will have at least 850 amps of battery for lighting so maybe a small electric heater might work and I’ll just have a big wood heater out the front under the edge of verandah...or some how, maybe run the flu over the outside fire, somehow into and out of the container, put some baffles inside the container flu section, that will warm up...hmmmm....

[bladeracer]

Was also pointed out to me - with the insulation in the walls, roof and sisolation being used as well, it’s not going to need much of a heater - so need to be careful I don’t turn it into an oven...meaning my initial pot belly stove idea is out...not sure how to fix that. It will have at least 850 amps of battery for lighting so maybe a small electric heater might work and I’ll just have a big wood heater out the front under the edge of verandah...or some how, maybe run the flu over the outside fire, somehow into and out of the container, put some baffles inside the container flu section, that will warm up...hmmmm....

Wind a copper coil around the flu leading to a tank and you'll have hot water all the time the fire is going. It's how we heat our water here. We have a huge copper tank hidden in a faux pantry in the kitchen, and a smaller header tank in the roof space to feed the shower. Hot water rises, cooler water falls, so heat the water at the bottom, as it warms it moves up and displaces cooler water to the bottom. We used something similar on Cadet camps, a coil thrown in the fire feeding into a tank. No pumps required.

[Stix]

Sounds like you guys are talking code for making a smoker...or...or a Whisky still...

[TassieTiger]

Magic no is 78 degs C