Blr243 wrote:Corrugated roofing custom orb can be pitched as low as 5 degrees. Extra battens are a very good idea because otherwise u will just crush it. Trim deck roofing I think u can pitch it at 3 degrees but it will be a bastard to walk on with its high ribs and wide valleys. Whenever I’m asked to sheet a wall on a budget I use 4:5 mm hardiflex. It’s not legal thickness Legal thickness is 6 mm. U gotta be gentle on the 4:5 mm sheet even if your studs are 450 mm apart. I join it with pvc mouldings and do all the finishing work myself. I do this to avoid hiring plasterers. I avoid hiring plasterers because a lot of them are a bit feral.
Stix wrote:Tas.
I say again...just hire me...i promise ill ONLY shoot on smoko break, & only drink beer AFTER 4pm...
Yes a deck can work but not your way.
Rafters then turn into floor joists so must be designed to take roof & floor loads (legally) & be able to span that far....your 4x2"s wont do that.
How wide is a container...? (& ill work out the spans for you)
Plasterboard can span 600mm as a lining mate...thats standard for a house.
Although i maintsin, i think structaflor is the best for what you're doing.--its what id do for sure...fix anything to the wall anywhere...
Id use structaflor as flooring right through...then screw down a sheet of villa board (6mm cement sheet) & tile that for the immediate area for heater...
Let me know the width of container & ill send you a diagram of how to build the roof/deck... (hope you can read scribbled building plans)
Or...just hire me...
(You getting the cracked record feeling...a noise repeating over & over...? )
trekin wrote:Stix wrote:Tas.
I say again...just hire me...i promise ill ONLY shoot on smoko break, & only drink beer AFTER 4pm...
Yes a deck can work but not your way.
Rafters then turn into floor joists so must be designed to take roof & floor loads (legally) & be able to span that far....your 4x2"s wont do that.
How wide is a container...? (& ill work out the spans for you)
Plasterboard can span 600mm as a lining mate...thats standard for a house.
Although i maintsin, i think structaflor is the best for what you're doing.--its what id do for sure...fix anything to the wall anywhere...
Id use structaflor as flooring right through...then screw down a sheet of villa board (6mm cement sheet) & tile that for the immediate area for heater...
Let me know the width of container & ill send you a diagram of how to build the roof/deck... (hope you can read scribbled building plans)
Or...just hire me...
(You getting the cracked record feeling...a noise repeating over & over...? )
Would building code even apply to a nonpermament, shack in the middle of nowhere? Just asking.
TassieTiger wrote:I’ve received my future shooting shack and I’m starting to sort it all out before having it relocated up the Bush.
I’ve stud lined the walls and cut windows and doors.
What is the cheapest material for internal lining? I was contemplating a Vj tounge and groove lining or perhaps a light marine ply sheeting - but I’m having a lot of shelving, bunk beds for 4, etc meaning lots of brackets on walls so large sheeting will ultimately be a pain - so other ideas?
Also - I’m going to put a 3 or 4% angled roof on the container, with railing and this will become a platform for some prone long distance shooting - but I don’t want a poor sod slipping off the darn thing, so just wondering if there is a roof product other than colourbond corrugated that might suit this application? I can put in additional rafters etc for additional support if it helps with material choice.
Here’s a pic of what happened 2 hours after it turned up...I couldn’t help myself.
And here is initial site prep being undertaken with a hired 5t - ex. Lots of fun!
Stix wrote:Termites are unlikely to eat particle board flooring with the glues in it...& the insulative properties should be better than cement sheet...id rather sleep in a timber room than cement sheet room...!!:
Die Judicii wrote:Sheesh
Blr243 wrote:No termites in tassie. Really? Wow I just learned something. Does that mean in Victoria they are scarce too because of the cold. Up here in Qld we just assume they are everywhere and hell bent on eating anything they can get to
Wombat wrote:The absolute cheapest lining is old crates or packing ply. Somewhere that imports plastic sheets will have a lot of thin spacing mdf, somewhere that imports hvac gear will have big ply boxes, a big motorbike dealer will have thick ply boxes etc etc. Most of these can be gotten for free or a carton for a ute load.
TassieTiger wrote:Went to discount timber place and checked some pricing:
Yellow tounge flooring - looks the goods and would be exc to use for ease but expensive at 2.4 x 1.2 = $48 a sheet.
3.6m x 1.2 was $68 a sheet.
12mm mdf was cheapest of timbers at 2.4 x 1.2m $22 a sheet.
Plasterboard was the outright cheapest as Stix said it would be. It’s still an option but I hate working with it because .... I’m useless.
Thin marine ply wasn’t too bad - but spanning 600mm with 5mm thicknply will end in tears I think...
Vj pine lining, wasn’t too bad at 2.05 a lm - worked ou id need 350lms = $720...would be easy to work with as cover is 130 meaning easy to sort windows / door etc.
speaking of which - should I sort windows and doors before lining?? Incase i can’t get sizes I’ve cut etc??
Got back home and started measuring roof area and wind kept blowing tape, so much so, that the ladder I was on, blew over whilst I was on the roof - then the tape measure grew wings and broke into 50 pieces...OK, I admit - sometimes I have an anger issue lol. Need new tape. So frustrated trying to hold timbers and screw s**t, tape measures, etc...by yourself. This is getting bigger than Ben lol. Need more hours...
Ecobogan wrote:The lining solution is all very easy mate. All you need to do is wheel that Gixxer thou in sporting a track flogged rear tyre (you may need two) start her up and get into some hearty 3rd gear redline figure 8 burnouts.
This will spray the inside of your cabin with soft compound rubber giving great insulation,act like a padded cell for when the beer tasting goes wayward and be quick and cheap (til you throw a rod) Don't forget either, it'll give a unique organic industrial appearance which I believe is highly sort after amongst Danish and German interior designers which will go beserk on Pinterest rendering good monies.
Just saying
bladeracer wrote:TassieTiger wrote:Went to discount timber place and checked some pricing:
Yellow tounge flooring - looks the goods and would be exc to use for ease but expensive at 2.4 x 1.2 = $48 a sheet.
3.6m x 1.2 was $68 a sheet.
12mm mdf was cheapest of timbers at 2.4 x 1.2m $22 a sheet.
Plasterboard was the outright cheapest as Stix said it would be. It’s still an option but I hate working with it because .... I’m useless.
Thin marine ply wasn’t too bad - but spanning 600mm with 5mm thicknply will end in tears I think...
Vj pine lining, wasn’t too bad at 2.05 a lm - worked ou id need 350lms = $720...would be easy to work with as cover is 130 meaning easy to sort windows / door etc.
speaking of which - should I sort windows and doors before lining?? Incase i can’t get sizes I’ve cut etc??
Got back home and started measuring roof area and wind kept blowing tape, so much so, that the ladder I was on, blew over whilst I was on the roof - then the tape measure grew wings and broke into 50 pieces...OK, I admit - sometimes I have an anger issue lol. Need new tape. So frustrated trying to hold timbers and screw s**t, tape measures, etc...by yourself. This is getting bigger than Ben lol. Need more hours...
MDF is cheap, I use it for target backing, but it has no structural quality at all. You could line walls and ceiling (not the floor) with it, but you'd need to put the studs and joists closer together, maybe 300mm centres might support it okay. Gyproc can be used like timber paneling, you don't have to finish it. Just put timber lathes over the joints if you can't stand seeing them. But it can be more difficult to line the ceiling with on your own if the sheets are large. I put a dropped ceiling in the house in Perth on my own, 6x1.35m sheets were a bitch but I got it done okay using two T-props. The old plasterglass ceiling was falling away from the joists so I built a dropped ceiling 100mm below the old ceiling.
Marine-ply is outstanding, but bloody expensive.
The easiest door frames I've used are the steel, three-piece ones. Push the head into place, then slot the stiles into it, and screw them to the studs. https://www.bunnings.com.au/lynx-2040-x-920mm-n114-3-hinge-right-hand-steel-unassembled-door-frame_p1960123 They come in several widths to fit your wall construction.
Windows will depend on what you design you want. You can simply frame a hole then make the window frame in timber, aluminium or steel to fit it, then order the glazing/perspex to fit that. Or you can buy standard window frames and build them into the wall frame.
TassieTiger wrote:Cheers - I’m sure it would be easier second time round lol. What’s screwing me up a little is I bought a second hand B grade. Not really knowing what that meant - but every wall has dents and twists and NOTHING is bloody square. I’m going to have to bloody bunt some studs to get lining square and flat. Painful and slow..... I’m learning a lot from comments on here as well as hands on mistakes. I’ve seen new external doors and jams for $50 at local seconds place.
A friend reckons he can get me VJ in various lengths to3.6m for $1.50 a lm. So might see if that materialises.
Will def be using yellow T on flooring.
And as you’ve said - I’ll end up building windows myself with Perspex and some oak boards for reveals - using quad to hold glass in. Never built one - should be interesting lol.
TassieTiger wrote:Ecobogan wrote:The lining solution is all very easy mate. All you need to do is wheel that Gixxer thou in sporting a track flogged rear tyre (you may need two) start her up and get into some hearty 3rd gear redline figure 8 burnouts.
This will spray the inside of your cabin with soft compound rubber giving great insulation,act like a padded cell for when the beer tasting goes wayward and be quick and cheap (til you throw a rod) Don't forget either, it'll give a unique organic industrial appearance which I believe is highly sort after amongst Danish and German interior designers which will go beserk on Pinterest rendering good monies.
Just saying
I like your thinking lol. Speaking of which - did a track day a couple weeks ago, was really damp and my first time on these tyres...struggled to get temp into them but I personally couldn’t fathom the grip available...like 3rd gear, cranked over, feeding in throttle with arse cheek desperately feeling for that “walk”...feeding throttle earlier and earlier...and front starts coming up while cranked - just mind blowing. This is a 195/55...long way over before clearance issues.
Ecobogan wrote:Right on. I've never run slicks but know it's a fair ask in the damp under power for them to fully behave. I run Dunlop Q2's on the SV with no dramas and have been rude to them at times.
Hey, am gonna have another crack at selling the old girl and failing that will prob part it out as I might've mentioned a while back.
I'll keep you in mind as it's got some bits you might get some use out of. Carbon wheels and an adjustable offset triple clamp suit a K8 1000 amongst others things.