Cherza wrote:Hi there, first post and I hope you guys might be able to help.
I just brought myself a cheap puma hunter .22 and Just spent a bit of time cleaning the factory oil of and re oiling.
I'm woundering if anybody has done anything to smothen the bold so its not so notchy and lightned the trigger that might be able to give me a rundown on what to do and what I need to smothen out and give a polish.
Thanks
Sam
Tripod wrote:Hey I met you in the shop when you picked it up. I was the one who opened the other part of the shop for you. With the cheaper rifles most of the time it's just a matter of a good light oil on the moving parts and sit there and work the bolt, The triggers usually need a good stoning and sometimes a new spring.
jmr22 wrote:My mate up the road bought a Norinco and he had lots of trouble sorting out the notchy bolt, I'll ask how he sorted it.
bladeracer wrote:Cherza wrote:Hi there, first post and I hope you guys might be able to help.
I just brought myself a cheap puma hunter .22 and Just spent a bit of time cleaning the factory oil of and re oiling.
I'm woundering if anybody has done anything to smothen the bold so its not so notchy and lightned the trigger that might be able to give me a rundown on what to do and what I need to smothen out and give a polish.
Thanks
Sam
What sort of accuracy does it offer? I was asked my opinion of the JW15 but I can't tell if it shoots okay or not. I'm very impressed with my JW21 lever but that's a very different action.
Supaduke wrote:Got a Dremel ? I used one on my jw-25 chauser. Took a few burrs off and then a bit of a Polish. Runs like glass now .
southeast varmiter wrote:Try Eley ammo. They all love it.
straightshooter wrote:A friend just recently bought a JW15 and I examined the barrel with a borescope and found it to be quite OK and certainly better than some US made cheapies I have examined.
My advice is to just cycle the bolt a lot. Best way is to go through a couple of bricks of cheap ammo, so go somewhere where you can do a lot of shooting without bothering anybody. The added advantage is that you will become familiar and confident with that rifle.
The action will get about as smooth as it ever likely to get that way. If you try to smooth it up yourself there is a good chance you may make matters worse, permanently.
If after a couple of bricks of ammo you are still dissatisfied with the trigger get somebody who knows what they are doing to tune it for you.
Wm.Traynor wrote:Speaking of the barrel, I recall helping a member with his JW. I suggested that at first, he should clean the bore of his NIB rifle with a loose patch. I reasoned that if there were any metal chips in there, that the loose patch would not force them against the rifling. I don't know how rational that idea is but the loose patch had bright specks on it. Gradually, the tightness of following patches was increased. No specks were evident. S'pose we got 'em all. Hope so.
IMO, unless you boil out the barrel, I think it is the way to go.
Wm.Traynor wrote:Sounds good Cherza![]()
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But please tell this old geezer what spray de-greaser is. I'm a bit behind the times
Wm.Traynor wrote:Could have missed something but did not expect you to float the barrel. It's the first thing I did to my CZ.
Do you know how to test the bedding?
Wm.Traynor wrote:Sounds like you have a lump attached to the barrel's under-side, like a 452 CZ. That arrangement is very difficult to deal with, I am sorry to say. Briefly then and IMO, the whole rifle should sit on the bottom of that lump and the underside of the action, at the rear take-down bolt. No contact between those two areas. Because this bedding arrangement is unlike others where there are screws at the front and rear of the action, it cannot be tested as far as I know. When I did my 452, tension on the bolt at the front "lug", was a big influence on vertical dispersion.
How far in front of the action is the lug?
Wm.Traynor wrote:I thought so. That is probably a better idea than my old 452 which was much further out down the barrel. The same comments/recommendations apply, however. The idea is to bed under the action, at the take-down bolt, shoot it and see what it is like.
But now that you have floated the barrel, I would try that first. You might be happy with that. If you are are novice with toolsit will be hard going. It is a great pity that there is no-one down there who could show you, one on one. Let us know how you go mate.