Resurrecting an Oldie

Improving and repairing firearms. Rifle bedding, barrel work, stock replacement and other ways to improve your firearms.

Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Homer » 04 Aug 2018, 8:27 am

G'Day Fella's,

A couple of years back, I purchased a well used and abused BSA Hunter in .222Rem.
I have a thing for certain Post WWII sporting centrefire rifles, and this BSA falls into this category.

So the rifle was made, in the 1950's (exact date TBC), and has had a tough life and a bloody rough owner but all the important parts are still intact.
For starters, the barrel channel was "Free Floated", the action was "Bedded", and the exterior stock finish (and a lot of the checkering) was removed, obviously by a preson that had no real idea of what it was they were doing or how to go about achieving this correctly.
I'll let the photo's do a lot of the talking on this but lets just say, I'm sure the BSA Factory, new more about how to do these tasks, than the individual that ruined this rifles stock.
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D'oh!
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Last edited by Homer on 09 Aug 2018, 5:22 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Reserecting and Oldie

Post by Homer » 04 Aug 2018, 8:39 am

G'Day Fella's,

Here are some additional images of the barrel channel area ............
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So I hope the images show clearly enough, how the barrel channel was "Floated" and all the wrong area's of the action, were "Bedded" with Plastic Wood (?), and no release agent used on the metal...........

Double D'oh!!
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by bigrich » 04 Aug 2018, 4:22 pm

bit of work , but she's worth fixing by the look of it. nice ole rifle homer :thumbsup:
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by JimTom » 04 Aug 2018, 5:45 pm

You have a bit of work ahead of you there mate. Will be satisfying to get her up and running again though I’d say. Good luck with it and keep us posted mate.
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by SCJ429 » 04 Aug 2018, 5:46 pm

Despite this attempt at bedding, was it shooting OK? Are you going to recut the checking and restore the existing stock?
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by Homer » 04 Aug 2018, 6:25 pm

G'Day Fella's,

Thanks for your kind comments and good wishes.

The barrel is a bit rough on the inside, so I made up a barrel vice bush to suit, and unscrewed it out of the action
I have also purchased a new replacement stock blank, off http://www.hatchersriflestocks.com.au to suit this action size.
I'm not sure what I will rebarrel it in (.222Rem again, or 6.5 Grendel, 7.62x39 or ???).

Here are the proceedures I went thru, to make up a barrel vice bush to match the BSA Featherweight barrel profile.
As you can see in these images, the BSA barrel has a flat machined in the reinforced section/Knox Form, at the bottom of the barrel.
So I hoped that this was there for a purpose from the factory, and luckily it worked, as the barrel screwed out pretty easily.
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You can see here, the two halves of the Action Clamp.
I used the same Bottom Half, as that to suit a Win M70, and machined up a new Top Half for the BSA (and other flat top actions like Brno, Sako etc).
You can also see the barrel "Donut" sitting on the barrel clamp halves (with the section machined out of it. And a miscalculated reject of this part, in the back ground..... D'oh!)
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Here is the part I made the Flat Sided Segment out of, and there it is, sitting in the background.
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And here I am machining it to the correct dimension...... (prior to clamping and welding it into the "Donut").
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I'll post some more images shortly

D'oh!
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by Homer » 04 Aug 2018, 6:41 pm

So, as can be seen above, I machined up a "Donut" that was a couple of thou bigger, than the diameter as the barrel reinforce/Knox Form.
I then machined up a "blank thing" and hacksawed off a section and then machined down the flat side of it, until it was the correct dimention.
I then filed a few chamfers around the edges of this, and then clamped it together, prior to TIG welding it together (see this below, prior to welding)
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This flat section, is the surface that engages the previously mentioned flat, on the bottom of the barrel.

I then mounted this "Donut" in my barrel vice, and nipped it and the action wrench up "just enough".
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And Bingo, it unsrewed fairly easily.
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Here is the unscrewed barrel (with the flat sided "Donut", in place), next to the action.
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D'oh!
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by bigrich » 04 Aug 2018, 6:47 pm

pretty tricky stuff homer, luv your work ! after seeing your vice/tooling ,barrel removing ( say that five times fast, i dare ya ! :lol: ) i've no doubt you'll sort it :thumbsup:
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by Wm.Traynor » 04 Aug 2018, 7:14 pm

Well done Homer :thumbsup:
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by JimTom » 04 Aug 2018, 7:37 pm

Mate you sure are a handy bloke by the looks. Would like to have half your ability.
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by Noisydad » 04 Aug 2018, 7:51 pm

Big tick! Homemade stuff is so much more satisfying than shop bought gear!
There's still a few of Wile. E Coyote's ideas that I haven't tried yet.
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by Homer » 05 Aug 2018, 8:51 am

G'Day Fella's,

Thank you for your kind comments, very much appreciated.

Noisy Dad, in this instance, "Neccesity is the mother of invention", as you just can't buy factory made bits, you will need for so many tasks.
So you have to design and make them yourself, if you want a job to progress......... or do something thats different, from standard.

People need to appreciate this, if they ever question the cost of Gunsmithing work (as so much unseen work, goes on behind the scenes).

Avagreatweekendeh!
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by Homer » 05 Aug 2018, 9:21 am

G'Day Fella's,

So with the barrel removed from the action, it was time to inlet the action into the new stock.
FYI, the cocks that Cameron Hatcher supplies, are slightly undersize in the inletting.
So you will need a good understanding of how and when to do articular tasks (and some appropriate tools), before you start removing wood.
This is the first time I have undertaken this task, so I'm no expert and it was a bit of a learning curve.................. so, you need to go Slow and Steady.

Here is a couple of images of the XX select grade, Australian grown, English Walnut stock (as received from Hatcher Rifle Stocks), in different light conditions.
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HooRoo for now
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Last edited by Homer on 07 Aug 2018, 1:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by bigrich » 05 Aug 2018, 9:30 am

very nice wood. are you going to stain/varnish or oil ? i will be watching your rebuild of this closely as i have a 1976 winchester 70 xtr in 222 that needs a freshen
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by Wm.Traynor » 05 Aug 2018, 7:08 pm

"Different light conditions", you say, Homer. Wow, what a stark contrast a bit of light makes :) :o
Very nice grain though :thumbsup:
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by Homer » 06 Aug 2018, 4:10 pm

G'Day Fella's,

Thanks for the kind comments.

I was pretty lucky, for the price, as the stock wood is pretty nice.
The RHS of the stock, is a bit plainer than the LHS, but it is all good, dense and hard, air dried Walnut.

The reason I screwed the barrel out of the action, was so I could inlet the action, into the stock.
Not knowing what profile the barrel will be, I can do the barrel channel later, once it is sorted and in place in the action.
With the inletting of the stock deliberately made undersize for the action, I had to carefully chisle and file the high spots away, so the action would eventually slip down, into the stock.
There are some obvious areas, where the Pantograph's cutter has left areas of the stock radiused, like the recoil lug reccess and some other areas.
So I initially chiseled these to a 90 degree/square corner.
Once these were completed, the action would drop below the surface and into the stock part of the way.
You can see a Before.............
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and After image of this below.
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I used a Blue Texta/Marker pen, to paint the lower and side surfaces of the action.
The point of this, is to rub off onto the stock inletting, to show you where the metal is contacting the wood.
You then carefully chisle or file this Blue section of stock wood away.
Here is an image of this, with the Blue Texta high spot mark(s), on the stock wood.
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You then repeat this a couple of hundred times (well it seems like that many times), until the action is where you want it to be, and only making contact, where required.
In this instance (BSA, Mauser, Sako, Howa etc), on and around the recoil lug area at the front, and the botton of the tang at the rear of the action.

D'oh!
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Last edited by Homer on 06 Aug 2018, 5:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by sungazer » 06 Aug 2018, 5:07 pm

Nice work Homer. I at first thought the same about the action and no release agent but there are some people that do glue the action into the stock so it may have been done on purpose. A lot of that stain on the stock is from cleaner chemicals that has dribbled out those holes. Ask me how I know. I found that the Hoppes foaming cleaner will do that. So clean it up quickly if it comes back into the action.
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by Homer » 06 Aug 2018, 5:34 pm

G'Day Fella's,

Whilst I have built and restocked a dozen or so properly laid up fibreglass/synthetic stock rifles, as mentioned above, this is the first time I have attempted this task, on a wood stock.
Given this history, I do know what works and what doesn't, so a lot of this past experience has been incorporated, into what I'm doing with this wood stock.
This includes Pillar and Epoxy bedding of the rifle action, into it's stock.
But before this, I had to inlet the trigger guard and floor plate into the bottom of the stock.
This again required me squaring up the radiused corners, left after the Pantograph had done its bit.
Here you can see where I have done this in the top of the photo, but not the bottom.
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Here are some images of the aluminium pillars I made up along with their action screws, and then the pillars, inset into the stock screw holes.
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Also, please note above, that both radius's have now been squared up, in that part (for the trigger guard), of the inletting.

These Pillars were epoxy resin (Brownell's Acra Glass Gel), glued into the stock, at the same time I bedded the action into the stock.
The difference is, I applied Release Agent only in the holes of the pillars, then all over both the action screws and to all the bottom and sides surfaces of the action.
This way, the outside of the pillars will adhere to the stock, the action screws won't adhere to inside of the pillars and the same with the action in the stock.
I apply two coats of release agent, at least a couple of hours (in Winter), before the bedding job is to be attempted, so that the relaese agent has completely cured.

D'oh!
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by marksman » 07 Aug 2018, 3:02 pm

your doing a great job homer
:drinks:
I love it :thumbsup:
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by Homer » 07 Aug 2018, 3:44 pm

G'Day Fella's,

Thank You to those for your kind and other comments.

Last time I posted, I think I had finished with the inletting and I was looking to bed the action to the stock.
There is a lot in the ststement "To Bed The Action" but most people can't work out what this means.
Basically, I assume this statement refers to the action being at rest in the stock. Just like us, once we lay down in bed.
If there was a brick under your matress, you probably wouldn't sleep well and perform to your best, the next day.
Same with an actioin in it's "Bed"/inletting.
So what we are trying to achieve here, is to place the action in the correct place in the stock, so that it has no stresses being applied to it (no Bricks under it), distorting the action, as it lays there, being held in place by the action screws.
There are a few different ways to achieve this and also, different action types, require different bedding methods.
You can go Google that info up, as a little bit of home work........... if your interested.

You need to prepare both the action and stock, prior to mixng the bedding compound (Epoxy Resin).
This generally means having contingency plans in place, in anticipation of overflowing epoxy resin onto the outer stock finish.
I generally use masking tape on the stock and plastic bedding tape, on the action etc.
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I've used masking tape here, so you can better see it's placement on the action.
The reason tape is used, is to create a very slight amount of clearance, between particular action surfaces and the epoxy bedding and or inletting.
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After this has been completed, I then apply two coats of Release Agent, to the bottom and sides of the action surfaces, and allow this to dry (both times), before going any further.

So you then mix up the two parts of the bedding material, as per the manufactures directions, in both the correct proportions, and slighly more quantity than actually required for the job. Better to have To Much ............ than To Little................. D'oh!
At this time, you would also add any additional components (atomised metal or coloured dye) if required, to the epoxy mix (again, as per the directions.
You then apply the mixed bedding material, into the required locations, in the stock and then do what you have worked out works first time regarding this part of the process.
As previously mentioned, I would also apply some bedding material, the the outside of the action screw pillars, and their holes in the stock at this same time.
I then place the stock etc, in a location where it won't get bumped for a few hours.........................

D'oh!
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by Homer » 09 Aug 2018, 10:55 am

G'Day Fella's,

Well the moment of thruth arrived, and pretty well all appears to be as it should be.
As you will see in a moment, there was a small issue (?) with the bedding material/compound, at the receiver/action ring end of this job.
But apart from this, all the rest of it seems to have come together, as I expected.

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As you can see better here (the dull area on the flat area, behind the recoil lug recess), some of the bedding compound adhered to the bottom of the action, when I pulled the two parts apart. I reckon this was due to the compound, requiring more time to cure (it's Winter), before dissassembly.......... D'oh!
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So I may need to do a second "Touch Up" bedding job, on this area?

Here you can see the tang area, at the rear of the action. All looks good to me.
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Here is the front screw area, under the floor plate. All looks good to me.
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Here is the rear screw/tang area, behind the trigger guard. All looks good to me.
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As you can see, the stock/screw pillars, look to be in the correct place and ready to do their job.

A little bit a carefull chisel work is always required, after an epoxy bedding job, just to fine tune and clean things up.

Now that this has been completed, it's time to start on the hand rubbed, exterior finish of the stock itself.

D'oh!
Homer
Last edited by Homer on 10 Aug 2018, 6:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Resurrecting and Oldie

Post by Stoney » 09 Aug 2018, 5:34 pm

Absolutely loving this. Please keep the updates coming Homer.
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Homer » 10 Aug 2018, 10:25 am

Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm Pop Corn!

LOL!
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Homer » 10 Aug 2018, 11:28 am

G'Day Fella's,

Here are a couple of links that I found helpful, regarding How To apply Birchwood-Casey's Tru Oil stock finish;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ocS4F6ShNI
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKMzNfd-mXQ

Further to the second video, I don't like using wood stains or wood fillers. If the stock wood already has any contrasting colour, these may hide this.
Also, as was pointed out in the second video, the dust created from sanding, will obviously be the same colour as the stock. So that is the perfect wood filler for the stock, as it is already the correct colour.
I also asked for advice from a local Stock Maker, Russell LM, about applying Tru Oil.
Russell let me know how and why he does it the way he does, and this made sense but was only a slight variation, on the methods in the two above video's.

As the stock arrived from Hatchers, it was already very smooth, with only a few area's that still had some slight machine tool marks (around the cheek piece, in the concave section, between it and it's shadow line), on the external surface.
So I got to it with some 400 grade Wet and Dry (W&D) abrasive paper, and removed these tool marks and then sanded the rest of the stock.
I used this W&D paper, wrapped around a 1/2" wooden dowl, and a square cork sanding block.

Once this was done, I didn't remove the sanding dust from the stock, as it was filling the pours in the stock surface.
I then diluted a tea spoon's worth of Tru Oil, with an equal amount of Mineral Turpentine (Turps), and painted this on both the outside and internal inletting of the stock.
24 hours later, I lightly sand all the external surfaces of the stock, with 000 grade Steel Wool.
I then blow all the wood/Tru Oil and steel wool dust off the stock with compressed air.
I then leave the stock to sit in the sun for 15 minutes ish, on both sides (1/2 an hour......ish).
This helps warm up the stock, and this apparently helps it to absorb the next coat of Tru Oil.

I then apply the second/next coat of Tru Oil.
I did this as per the second video, by applying just one drop of Tru Oil at a time, to in this instance, a piece of 600 grade W&D paper (wrapped around the cork sanding block), and then used this to sand and apply the Tru Oil into one area of the stock surface at a time (forend Left side, forend Bottom, forend Right side...... you get the picture..... I hope?).
What you are doing, is both sanding and applying the Tru Oil, to the outside of the stock surface.
Any dust that is created by doing this, is instantly mixed with the Tru Oil, and this is then rubbed into the stock wood.
As you do this, you can feel the Tru Oil reducing and instead of being easy to apply, it starts to become slightly difficult or stiff to move the sanding block around.
So I then check to make sure I have covered that area (lets say, forend Right side....), before I place one more drop of Tru Oil on the W&D and move onto the next area.

Like the bloke in the first video suggests, don't allow a build up of Tru Oil in tight corners, like around the cheek piece, shadow line.
If you don't, you will end up with a build up of oil in these areas and it will end up a big and darker radiused surface.
When this coat has been applied all over, I get a tooth brush (use your Missus one), dip it in turps and the shake off the excess.
I then run the brush part of it around the shadow line, to remove the excess build up of oil, from this area.

Once this process is completed, I then hang the stock in the sun and rotate it, so all surfaces get some sun on it (15 minutes....... ish each side).
I then hang the stock up inside somewhere out of the way, and let the Tru Oil cure.
At the same time, the original piece of W&D, is progressively becoming smoother/less abrasive as well, and this helps add the the finer finish, being applied to the stock. After every application of Tru Oil, I use a tooth brush and a shallow tub of Turps, to remove the Tru Oil from the W&D paper.

24 hours later, I again lightly sand the exterior surface of the stock with steel wool, untill all surfaces are again a dull or matt finish.
I then blow all the wood and steel wool dust off the stock with compressed air and start again with the Tru Oil and sanding block.
What we are trying to do here, is removing any high spots and any blemishes from the last coat of Tru Oil, and at the same time, giving the next coat of Tru Oil somthing to adhere to.

I have now applied 7 coats of Tru Oil with this method.

Here is an image of the RH side of the stock (it is rather plain but still, nice hard and dense, heart wood walnut).
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And the LH side, which has some amount of contrasting colour to it.
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I'm getting tired of doing this but at the same time, it is some what therapeutic.

Avagreatweekendeh!
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Last edited by Homer on 10 Aug 2018, 7:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Wm.Traynor » 10 Aug 2018, 1:18 pm

It's beautiful :) :thumbsup:
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Daddybang » 10 Aug 2018, 5:30 pm

Lovin this thread!!
Seeing the different steps and the side info (such as the use of the sanded wood for color matching) is fantastic :thumbsup:
Can't wait to see final result.. Thanks heaps for posting Homer!! :drinks: :drinks:
This hard living ain't as easy as it used to be!!!
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by bigrich » 10 Aug 2018, 5:38 pm

good stuff homer :thumbsup: :drinks: :thumbsup:
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Homer » 10 Aug 2018, 6:11 pm

G'Day Fella's,

Thanks for your kind comments and I hope this is of some use, to you blokes.

Here are a couple of images of Before and After, the application of Tru Oil, to this same stock.

Here are a couple of the Before images. This is after the stock has been rubbed back with steel wool.
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Here I hope you can see, where I have completely rubbed thru the last applied coat of Tru Oil, and down to the previously applied coat..... D'oh!
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And here are some images of the stock, 24 hours ....... ish, after the last coat of Tru Oil was applied.
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Please note the lack of Tru Oil build up along the shadow line of the cheek piece.
Also whilst they aren't as sharp/square as they originally were, please note the still reasonable sharp/square edges, of both the cheek piece and it's shadow line.
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Avagreatweekendeh!
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by marksman » 11 Aug 2018, 8:56 pm

thanks for posting homer :drinks:
“If you do not read the newspapers you are uninformed. If you do read the newspapers you are misinformed”. Mark Twain
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Re: Resurrecting an Oldie

Post by Homer » 16 Aug 2018, 11:19 am

G'Day Fella's,

Been a bit side tracked with other things, so haven't done much on this of late.

Thru lack of experience with this and now, from what I have seen so far, it looks like the way I'm applying Tru Oil, is the way to go.
I'm not sure if I have already gone to far but before I get any further into the stock finishing, I thought I need to attach a forend tip, grip cap and a recoil pad.
The recoil pad is on the way, and luckily, I have a stash figured Australian, English Walnut pieces, that will do for the forend and grip cap.
I done a favour for an Australian stock wood supplier (GC in Tassie), and he was kind enough to send me a box of off cuts, for my various "Projects"...........

Here's a few images of the pieces for this job, and a simple dowl drilling jig, I thought up for the task.
DSCN2913.JPG
DSCN2913.JPG (1.17 MiB) Viewed 7841 times


and the same wood in the sun, wet with Metho, to show off the grain and colour better.
DSCN2915.JPG
DSCN2915.JPG (577.19 KiB) Viewed 7841 times


Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm Walnuts!

D'oh!
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