Zappa wrote:I see. Treat the quoted safe size like they quote sleeping tents sizes. Im only every going to have 2 rifles and 4 - 5 handguns so I might just get the 5 rifle safe and be done with it.
Now if only they could come out with a safe that could easily be concealed inside a coach . https://www.coolthings.com/gun-safe-in-a-sofa/
Then I wouldnt have to worry about sacrificing half my wardrobe space.
bladeracer wrote:I need to investigate whether they constitute a "secure room" under the firearms Act.
I like the idea of sitting in a room loading ammo while having my rifles hung on the walls around me instead of locked away in gun safes.
Michael994 wrote:I'm in a similar position, I already have a rifle safe but am now getting my cat h licence and will be getting a handgun down the track. I'm struggling to find a safe that suits the requirements. As most rifle safes seem to be 3mm steel construction however handguns need to have 6mm steel. Does anyone have any suggestions on a good safe?
Also in terms of size-i agree with everyone else. My 11 gun safe would probably fit like 5 or six. Go as big as you can fit.
Zappa wrote:I see. Treat the quoted safe size like they quote sleeping tents sizes. Im only every going to have 2 rifles and 4 - 5 handguns so I might just get the 5 rifle safe and be done with it..
Zappa wrote:I think only NSW requires 6mm door with 3mm min walls.
It should be fitted with a door not less than 6mm thick, swung on either
concealed pivots, or externally mounted sealed end hinges welded to the door
and body of the safe, with a clearance round the door of not more than 1mm;
and
* If hinged, have a locking bar or dogging bolts welded to the inside face of the
door near the hinge edge, which engages in a rebate in the container body
when the door is closed; and
* Be fitted with a pick resistant deadbolt locking mechanism that is activated by
either a six lever key, or pin/combination lock or biometric scanning (ie:
fingerprint etc). The lock should be securely affixed to the rear face of the door
and a metal strap overlapping the lock case with each end welded to hardened
steel anti drill plates (3mm mild case hardened to 60 Rockwell CO) which will
in turn be welded to the door; and
* Be constructed with a full length rebate welded to the side of the container
body. Locking edge to receive the deadbolt of the locking mechanism; and
* A pistol safe should be constructed to leave a 10mm skirt formed by the
recessing of the back plate from the outer edges of the sides, top and bottom
wall plates to prevent jemmying.
zhuk wrote:Nothing to stop you putting a handgun safe on top of a rifle safe...in fact I've got two on top of one of my rifles safes
Zappa wrote:zhuk wrote:Nothing to stop you putting a handgun safe on top of a rifle safe...in fact I've got two on top of one of my rifles safes
Are you saying that you can bolt a pistol safe on top of a bolted-down rifle safe and be legally compliant ?
zhuk wrote: I also keep a printout of the safe storage regs pdf in my ammo cabinet, for reference..
Grumpy wrote:My CZ & Browning Buckmark using the optional shelves. They rate this as a 6-8 gun safe, so I’m not sure a 4 gun safe would be wide enough.
Zappa wrote:zhuk wrote: I also keep a printout of the safe storage regs pdf in my ammo cabinet, for reference..
And here I am thinking i was a bit over exuberant doing this as well. It's called CYA in case the inspection officer raises questions.Grumpy wrote:My CZ & Browning Buckmark using the optional shelves. They rate this as a 6-8 gun safe, so I’m not sure a 4 gun safe would be wide enough.
hmm.. looking at the spec on the LOK2K is has the body at 14 gauge and door at 12 gauge. Isnt that 1.6mm and 2mm respectively ?
Zappa wrote:And here I am thinking i was a bit over exuberant doing this as well. It's called CYA in case the inspection officer raises questions.