wildcard6 wrote:Breaking a lifetime habit of not doing so, I decided to try cleaning my CZ452 .22LR barrel a bit more thoroughly. I will be using this rifle to shoot a new match in 2019 where metallic silhouette targets will be shot from 100m out to 300 yards. I have upgraded the scope to a Vortex long-range reticle unit, so this cleaning idea was just a part of a general push to improve performance. Keeping in mind the old adage about more damage being done by cleaning than shooting, I did the responsible thing and bought a rod-guide to protect the all-important chamber/ leade area and you may be surprised to hear that the rod-guide actually CAUSED the very damage I was trying to avoid! I've just come from my gunsmith's workshop who showed me the damage viewed in his bore-scope and it's horrendous! I'm up for $400 to cut the barrel back and re-chamber it. Talk about the text-book definition of irony... Let my expensive lesson be a free warning to others. The CZ has a standing/fixed blade ejector tab and the rod guide centres the rod in line with the bore. Unfortunately, that ejector tab is in the way and it pushes the rod sideways into the rifling. So remember that adage mentioned above - it's true!
bigrich wrote:I bought a locally made bore guide, and the ejector got in the way of the rod , so I stopped using it. Probably only used it three or four times. I use possum hollow guides on my centre fires and found them to be good. The only thing I did with mth my Cz rimfire was nylon brush and patch the powder out of it after using.
No1_49er wrote:bigrich wrote:I bought a locally made bore guide, and the ejector got in the way of the rod , so I stopped using it. Probably only used it three or four times. I use possum hollow guides on my centre fires and found them to be good. The only thing I did with mth my Cz rimfire was nylon brush and patch the powder out of it after using.
If you used a bore guide that was appropriate to your rifle, how on earth did the ejector get in the way? Something's not right, somewhere.
wildcard6 wrote:I used the rod guide just once and the damage was done. It's my own fault I admit, but because I'd had such a devil of a time getting hold of the rod guide I was keen to use it. When the rod entered the barrel it was like scr*wing a porcupine... I thought 'WTF', but kept pushing [big mistake] and the rest is history. To those unfamiliar with CZ452 anatomy, the ejector is prominent and the centred rod is forced sideways by contact with it. It made some impressive scratches on my steel rod, I can tell you! I looked at getting a .20 calibre rod, but you can't put a .22 calibre patch jag on .20 cal rod - it won't fit. I was advised to use a .20 cal jag with two patches... [Why not use a .17 cal rod with three?] I think that if a bore guide is manufactured and sold as a .22 cal rod guide, it should work as is!
Diamond Jim wrote:Ummm.... not doubting your experience but I've cleaned my 452 many times with no apparent ill-effect. I use a "Possum Hollow" rod guide, brass brush, solvent, patches etc. The ejector doesn't seem to come into the equation.
wildcard6 wrote:I used the rod guide just once and the damage was done. It's my own fault I admit, but because I'd had such a devil of a time getting hold of the rod guide I was keen to use it. When the rod entered the barrel it was like scr*wing a porcupine... I thought 'WTF', but kept pushing [big mistake] and the rest is history. To those unfamiliar with CZ452 anatomy, the ejector is prominent and the centred rod is forced sideways by contact with it. It made some impressive scratches on my steel rod, I can tell you! I looked at getting a .20 calibre rod, but you can't put a .22 calibre patch jag on .20 cal rod - it won't fit. I was advised to use a .20 cal jag with two patches... [Why not use a .17 cal rod with three?] I think that if a bore guide is manufactured and sold as a .22 cal rod guide, it should work as is!
bladeracer wrote:Diamond Jim wrote:Ummm.... not doubting your experience but I've cleaned my 452 many times with no apparent ill-effect. I use a "Possum Hollow" rod guide, brass brush, solvent, patches etc. The ejector doesn't seem to come into the equation.
Brass brush for cleaning a .22LR bore? I don't even use a nylon brush in the .22's, just soak with solvent and patch out until clean.
deanp100 wrote:bladeracer wrote:Diamond Jim wrote:Ummm.... not doubting your experience but I've cleaned my 452 many times with no apparent ill-effect. I use a "Possum Hollow" rod guide, brass brush, solvent, patches etc. The ejector doesn't seem to come into the equation.
Brass brush for cleaning a .22LR bore? I don't even use a nylon brush in the .22's, just soak with solvent and patch out until clean.
Irrespective of what is needed, brass or nylon should not have damaged a steel barrel first time. I reckon you could nearly stick a rat tail file up a barrel once and not do anything. After all they are steel. So what did the damage., the scratches in rod then passing through the bore. Still doesn’t sound right. Are you sure the gunsmith isn’t having a go.
No1_49er wrote:Seems some people doubt the need to use a brush to clean a 22 RF barrel.
After passing a number of clean patches through a barrel, and seeing no more (apparent) evidence of anything remaining, take the time to push a clean bronze brush through, and watch the dust cloud that forms as the brush exits the muzzle.
If you think that is "nothing", then go right ahead and use your "non-method". There IS sh1t in there that needs to be removed.
Ziad wrote:But thr million dollar situation is how often to clean a 22lr barrel. Mine is close to 700 rounds since last clean.... I can see some particles in barrel
bladeracer wrote:No1_49er wrote:Seems some people doubt the need to use a brush to clean a 22 RF barrel.
After passing a number of clean patches through a barrel, and seeing no more (apparent) evidence of anything remaining, take the time to push a clean bronze brush through, and watch the dust cloud that forms as the brush exits the muzzle.
If you think that is "nothing", then go right ahead and use your "non-method". There IS sh1t in there that needs to be removed.
Does the remaining dust cloud affect the accuracy though?
I don't clean a bore to make it clean, I clean it to make it shoot accurately again.
Wm.Traynor wrote:The "dust" is burnt carbon and that is what holds atmospheric moisture against the steel, eventually resulting in rust. Do you live in a dry part of Oz, bladeracer? If so, that might be why your barrels don't rust. I live near the Pacific north of Bris, where the air is salty and humid. Perfect recipe for rust.