SCJ429 wrote:Keep soaking it with copper solvent and agitate it with a brush until it removes the copper. It may take more than a dozen soaks to clean it all out. I use BoreTec Cu+, the best solvent I have found.
sungazer wrote:Duncan you have that the wrong way around you must let the bronze brush leave the barrel for the bristles to run the other way. Yes it means they run over the crown. not doing this will cause issues in the bore the bristles have to go from laying down against the bore in one direction then as you try to pull the brush backwards the bristles have to stand up on end this is when you get marks then they lay down flat in the other direction. A newer brush you may just find you cant pull it backward in the bore or the bristles may not be able to turn over now it is really going to possibly scratch with pointy ends being dragged forwards.
brett1868 wrote:That's copper fouling and easily removed with an ammonia based solvent. My favourite is the Robla Solo Mil 65 made by Ballistol but any copper specific solvent can be used. Clean the carbon first then then remove the copper, use a plastic brush and stainless steel jag if possible.
http://brtshooterssupply.com.au/products/robla-solo-mil-65.html
bladeracer wrote:Did "pitted" equal rooted?
No1_49er wrote:brett1868 wrote:That's copper fouling and easily removed with an ammonia based solvent. My favourite is the Robla Solo Mil 65 made by Ballistol but any copper specific solvent can be used. Clean the carbon first then then remove the copper, use a plastic brush and stainless steel jag if possible.
http://brtshooterssupply.com.au/products/robla-solo-mil-65.html
+1 for the Robla Solo Mil by Ballistol. And the stainless or aluminium jag. BRT usually have a good stock, and are very quick.
FWIW, this is MY cleaning procedure. I also know quite a number of others who use the same method and achieve the same results.
With a new barrel it can take a while for things to settle down, but you will hopefully reach a stage whereby there will be no copper fouling laid down after your shooting. Happy days.
One piece cleaning rod with bearing handle.
Bore guide - custom made for rifle, or multi-fit such as a Lyman 04045 Universal.
1) - patch out with Windex until patches come out clean. You might be surprised how many you'll need.
2) - patch bore dry.
3) - patch out with brake cleaner until patches come out clean.
4) - patch bore dry
5) - use a loose patch to wet the bore, or if you have a bore guide with a solvent port, start with a nylon bristle brush, wet it and scrub the bore. Nylon bristles are forgiving so OK to reverse the direction when just reaching muzzle.
6) - patch out bore
7) - continue with wet patches until no colour (blue/green) showing. If you use stainless, or aluminium, jags you will not get a false indication of fouling because of the solvent acting on the brass jag. Same reason for using a nylon brush. If you do use a more sturdy brass brush, no problem. Just be sure to wash it with very hot water to remove the solvent/ammonia.
8) - I usually finish with Windex to ensure that the solvents are gone, then a pass with Hoppes.
Remember to patch the bore dry before you start shooting again.
Some people think that's all a bit OCD. I'll tell you why.
With ANY new rifle, I will fire ONE shot then clean per above. One more shot and repeat. For at least five shots. Then, maybe groups of 3, 5, then 10. There comes a time that there is NO copper fouling, at which stage you can be reasonably certain that sufficient rounds have traversed the barrel and the rifling/lands are burnished to the extent that copper fouling doesn't show its head again. Sure, there will still be carbon/powder fouling to clean out, but that's a "seasoned" barrel. So much easier to clean then. Tedious to begin with, but the long term dividends are worth the effort. TMWOT.
Wm.Traynor wrote:This This This This all the way to the end. An old Full-bore Armourer told me that you can pin-prick the bore at the muzzle if you reverse a bronze brush. You need the rifle in a vice. Detach the brush when clear of the muzzle. Re-attach and push it through again. Very slow and boring. Patch out after ten strokes and check for fouling In The Bore, not on a patch. It is true that the solvent, like Sweets, will react with the bronze/brass/whatever(?) in the brush so it will leave a trace on the patch. That old bloke said "One stroke for every shot fired", so you have a lot of work to do mate. Just be patient
Wm.Traynor wrote:Under the copper is where the burnt carbon lies and it holds atmospheric moisture in contact with the steel.
SCJ429 wrote:I think you will find that diamond Is ten on The Mohs hardness scale.
sungazer wrote:Have you worked out what the point pressure is on the point of the brass when trying to lay the bristles from one direction to the other? The fact that in most cases with a new brush it just cant be done. I would bet that the pressure on the point of the bristle would be enough to mark steel without a worry. Take a brass brush that you buy at the hardware and a piece of mild steel " that is all a barrel is even the Stainless ones are softer makes them easier to machine" and brush away you will see the marks. Start bashing the brush into the steel like a hammer and look for marks. Then tell me it does no damage.
If this was the worst miss information that was on this site it would be a great site for information. You should get out and read and comment on a lot of the other posts that are just pure BS.