Ecobogan wrote:TassieTiger wrote:Ecobogan wrote:The lining solution is all very easy mate. All you need to do is wheel that Gixxer thou in sporting a track flogged rear tyre (you may need two) start her up and get into some hearty 3rd gear redline figure 8 burnouts.
This will spray the inside of your cabin with soft compound rubber giving great insulation,act like a padded cell for when the beer tasting goes wayward and be quick and cheap (til you throw a rod) Don't forget either, it'll give a unique organic industrial appearance which I believe is highly sort after amongst Danish and German interior designers which will go beserk on Pinterest rendering good monies.
Just saying
I like your thinking lol. Speaking of which - did a track day a couple weeks ago, was really damp and my first time on these tyres...struggled to get temp into them but I personally couldn’t fathom the grip available...like 3rd gear, cranked over, feeding in throttle with arse cheek desperately feeling for that “walk”...feeding throttle earlier and earlier...and front starts coming up while cranked - just mind blowing. This is a 195/55...long way over before clearance issues.
Right on. I've never run slicks but know it's a fair ask in the damp under power for them to fully behave. I run Dunlop Q2's on the SV with no dramas and have been rude to them at times.
Hey, am gonna have another crack at selling the old girl and failing that will prob part it out as I might've mentioned a while back.
I'll keep you in mind as it's got some bits you might get some use out of. Carbon wheels and an adjustable offset triple clamp suit a K8 1000 amongst others things.
Good luck with the fit out. I've done a fair bit of modwork to 20 &40 fters in the past, have 2 high cubes myself, and used to weld tabs to the buckled corten walls which mounting brackets screw to. You could slide the bracket in or out along the tab to meet the stringline and Tek screw it in place. Probably kinda hard to picture but is quick n easy....if you have a mig or stick nearby.
Can send a sketch no probs if you need
TassieTiger wrote:I’ve used soft slicks and loved everything about them but munlocal tracks kill the left hand side on a day necessitating a tyre flip to save some $$$.
The slicks above were cheapish hard / hard and grip in the damp was inbfknlvable but I couldn’t get the temps up - I didn’t take my tyre warmers out as I like to take a couple laps to warm gear box etc - but front tyre got that blue tinge and cold tear marks that says “hey buddy, these tyres are better than you are a rider” lol.
Was my first day back after 12 months away - you forget how much fun tracks are.
I did PI 3 years ago my first time - iof course it pissed down...I was 4th person out of pits on warm up lap. 3rd rider went down BEFORE 1st corner...bandit 1250. Ole mate in 1st pos highsided himself at Honda hairpin on an Aprilla rsv...at this stage I’m thinking wtf is going on. Then 2nd pos, Ducati 999 lowsided out of MG....I somehow missed all of them but was very confused lol The track was like Ice and 20% of bikes on the day hit the deck. I had some big moments but learnt a lot and stayed up. Was just after new resurface...oily s**t coming to surface.
Waneroo and rain looks like fun - looks like you know what your doing!. It’s quite amazing how much grip you can get in the rain if your smooth. I never got my knee down in rain but was never scared of riding reasonably hard on tyres / bike I knew inside out.
I used to own a short stroke J model 750 (slingshot model - fug I loved that thing) and also a few years later the longer stroke M. In fact, a H model 1100 is coming up for sale in 3 weeks, but I’m not telling you where lol!!!!
TassieTiger wrote:That 85 will be worth $$$.
I literally just sold a pop up head light katana...made a good $ on it. That’s what I’m planning on doing with this coming 85 for sale...fix it up and see what it’s worth.
Getting old sux mate...really does. I can feel it catching up with me now...the big gix is a handful now and one decent off and...
The J model was my first proper big bike and the feeling of acceleration just hooked me for ever...the Kayto was my first bike with any electronics and I really went overboard with the gt - it has it all. But doesn’t detract like I thought it might...
A few years ago, mate of mine from SA did a track day at Pi and broke a couple ribs and fractured his forearm arm. Despite his protests, They bloody air lifted him to Melb - when he got home, he had a $20,000 bill waiting for him for aircraft, etc. Not exactly sure wtf of all details but he was devestated...he said he could have driven himself, got a taxi, a road ambulance, a bloody limo - the problem was he was okay in his mind, but they were being cautious as hell.
Put all of us on notice when we there - that’s for sure!
bladeracer wrote:Ecobogan wrote:Right on. I've never run slicks but know it's a fair ask in the damp under power for them to fully behave. I run Dunlop Q2's on the SV with no dramas and have been rude to them at times.
Hey, am gonna have another crack at selling the old girl and failing that will prob part it out as I might've mentioned a while back.
I'll keep you in mind as it's got some bits you might get some use out of. Carbon wheels and an adjustable offset triple clamp suit a K8 1000 amongst others things.
I've done a lot of racing and track days on slicks, in the rain. You need a lot of standing water before it's a problem. A grooved tyre sacrifices tread area by putting in grooves to pump out standing water. A slick tyre is _all_ tread, so grip is exponentially better, but aquaplanning is more likely in standing water. I managed to get a shot on my cameras showing my front wheel locked while the rear was still doing 150kph, or something like that, running through a puddle while braking into Turn Seven at Wanneroo. During this race I think it was - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0E688_WPpg. Mark, that I'm chasing is also on slicks, but he spent the night cutting grooves in them We're both on 1990 GSXR750L's. Three weeks later I smashed my shoulder stopping my riding.
Slicks in the rain are damned good fun
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kByTK4gmwPQ
Carbon wheels would be neat, but not legal on a racetrack, unless they've changed the rules recently. Only legal if OEM.
Ecobogan wrote:Ha! There you go... didn't realize that you were a rider. Yep get it on the grooves squeezing the water out....raced go karts for a season years back and slicks could be nasty fun in even mild damp. That was in Tennant creek, often in 40 Deg heat at the old airport where the races were held, the slicks would get that hot they would fuse to bitumen in the pits between heats! Super soft compounds tho.
At that time I had a K model GSXR750, bought it crashed, got an L model front end for it...first of the USD forks iirc. Great first big bike and no speed limits in the NT back then. Great times.
Indeed we need a bike thread Tassie and will keep you posted on which way it all goes with the SV. ..very tempting to keep a 170horse V-twin....but.
Gonna do that electric buggy too...scored near all the running gear off a mate just recently. 350hp 480 ft/lbs...450 kg. Should be wild enough
bladeracer wrote:Ecobogan wrote:Ha! There you go... didn't realize that you were a rider. Yep get it on the grooves squeezing the water out....raced go karts for a season years back and slicks could be nasty fun in even mild damp. That was in Tennant creek, often in 40 Deg heat at the old airport where the races were held, the slicks would get that hot they would fuse to bitumen in the pits between heats! Super soft compounds tho.
At that time I had a K model GSXR750, bought it crashed, got an L model front end for it...first of the USD forks iirc. Great first big bike and no speed limits in the NT back then. Great times.
Indeed we need a bike thread Tassie and will keep you posted on which way it all goes with the SV. ..very tempting to keep a 170horse V-twin....but.
Gonna do that electric buggy too...scored near all the running gear off a mate just recently. 350hp 480 ft/lbs...450 kg. Should be wild enough
Wow! I grew up in Tennant Creek, had no idea they have a race track of any kind.
Stix wrote:Hey guys...before i went away on the weekend i was in this building thread where the guy was lining a container...
You guys got any idea where it went...?
Im sure i last seen it around here somewhere... ...now i cant seem to find it...
All i can see is what appears to be a couple of old bike tyres, a motorbike chain, & an oil stain on the concrete...
Stix wrote:Hey guys...before i went away on the weekend i was in this building thread where the guy was lining a container...
You guys got any idea where it went...?
Im sure i last seen it around here somewhere... ...now i cant seem to find it...
All i can see is what appears to be a couple of old bike tyres, a motorbike chain, & an oil stain on the concrete...
Ecobogan wrote:You've got to be kidding me! Grew up there!? I was there '94-'95. The races were held at down the end of the old airport which I think still got some landings from time to time. Also just outside the township of Warrego and of course the annual street race....where I crashed spectacularly and nearly took my old man out!
So no actual race tracks, more make do. Was awesome fun, near everyone had a kart.
Saw the cannon ball run come through in '94 too and have great memories of Tennant
sungazer wrote:One of the best woods for so many purposes that is relative cheap for what it is. I have found is Formply it is 17mm strong and it has a coating that makes it flat no need to paint and is waterproof to a point. There are a couple of grades but not a huge difference in price between the structural and no structural.
bladeracer wrote:sungazer wrote:One of the best woods for so many purposes that is relative cheap for what it is. I have found is Formply it is 17mm strong and it has a coating that makes it flat no need to paint and is waterproof to a point. There are a couple of grades but not a huge difference in price between the structural and no structural.
Formply is excellent, but significantly more expensive than 19mm particle board flooring. Where I am, the 19mm Yellow Tongue retails for $47 for a 3600mmx900mm sheet, 17mm Formply is $55 for a 2400x1200mm sheet. $14.50/m2 compared to $19/m2. The Formply is also only available in 2400mm sheet lengths. The Formply is certainly much tougher than the Yellow Tongue though, and a bit lighter.
Stix wrote:...!...so like painting alloy, if prep is not done right, coating will de-laminate pretty easy & leave you feeling pretty disheartened when the paint peels off in sheets ...
Stix wrote:bladeracer wrote:sungazer wrote:One of the best woods for so many purposes that is relative cheap for what it is. I have found is Formply it is 17mm strong and it has a coating that makes it flat no need to paint and is waterproof to a point. There are a couple of grades but not a huge difference in price between the structural and no structural.
Formply is excellent, but significantly more expensive than 19mm particle board flooring. Where I am, the 19mm Yellow Tongue retails for $47 for a 3600mmx900mm sheet, 17mm Formply is $55 for a 2400x1200mm sheet. $14.50/m2 compared to $19/m2. The Formply is also only available in 2400mm sheet lengths. The Formply is certainly much tougher than the Yellow Tongue though, and a bit lighter.
Good suggestion Sungazer...
Im a great fan of ply, its very strong even without being structural...
The shelves of my reloading bench are all from left over form ply--easy to dust (yea rite...like i dust anything ), & cant see all the gun powder dribbles easily (until i put my glasses on anyway)...
The biggest issue in choosing between these 2 man made prodocts is coating...
The structaflor has a wax type coating, so if you want it painted this needs to be stripped off...its a simple process, however wouldnt be my favourite thing to do with a lot of sheets.
Personally, i think it would be best done with a floor sander prior instsllation.
You'd get all sheets for a contsiner done in well under an hour this way...
You could then get away with painting ot in an self priming exterior acrylic paint like a good dulux weathershield if wanting one simple product.
Or use a good interior paint & sealer/undercoat for better cleaning ability...(so the "Stix woz ere" i write on the wall in deer blood with my finger while im down there building it for you can be easily removed with a sponge)...
With form.ply, you dont "need" to paint it...but then your stuck with black walls inside...
If you dont want black walls, painting form ply is a hassle...you have to cut (etch) the surface with a sander, remove all dust properly, then prime with a high quality primer, then top coat in whatever you choose.
Preperation is key (haha--funny pun rite there...! ) if painting form ply--remember its is designed so stuff DOESNT stick to it...!...so like painting steel or alloy, if prep is not done right, coating will de-laminate pretty easy & leave you feeling pretty disheartened when the paint peels off in sheets ...
TassieTiger wrote:Stix wrote:bladeracer wrote:sungazer wrote:One of the best woods for so many purposes that is relative cheap for what it is. I have found is Formply it is 17mm strong and it has a coating that makes it flat no need to paint and is waterproof to a point. There are a couple of grades but not a huge difference in price between the structural and no structural.
Formply is excellent, but significantly more expensive than 19mm particle board flooring. Where I am, the 19mm Yellow Tongue retails for $47 for a 3600mmx900mm sheet, 17mm Formply is $55 for a 2400x1200mm sheet. $14.50/m2 compared to $19/m2. The Formply is also only available in 2400mm sheet lengths. The Formply is certainly much tougher than the Yellow Tongue though, and a bit lighter.
Good suggestion Sungazer...
Im a great fan of ply, its very strong even without being structural...
The shelves of my reloading bench are all from left over form ply--easy to dust (yea rite...like i dust anything ), & cant see all the gun powder dribbles easily (until i put my glasses on anyway)...
The biggest issue in choosing between these 2 man made prodocts is coating...
The structaflor has a wax type coating, so if you want it painted this needs to be stripped off...its a simple process, however wouldnt be my favourite thing to do with a lot of sheets.
Personally, i think it would be best done with a floor sander prior instsllation.
You'd get all sheets for a contsiner done in well under an hour this way...
You could then get away with painting ot in an self priming exterior acrylic paint like a good dulux weathershield if wanting one simple product.
Or use a good interior paint & sealer/undercoat for better cleaning ability...(so the "Stix woz ere" i write on the wall in deer blood with my finger while im down there building it for you can be easily removed with a sponge)...
With form.ply, you dont "need" to paint it...but then your stuck with black walls inside...
If you dont want black walls, painting form ply is a hassle...you have to cut (etch) the surface with a sander, remove all dust properly, then prime with a high quality primer, then top coat in whatever you choose.
Preperation is key (haha--funny pun rite there...! ) if painting form ply--remember its is designed so stuff DOESNT stick to it...!...so like painting steel or alloy, if prep is not done right, coating will de-laminate pretty easy & leave you feeling pretty disheartened when the paint peels off in sheets ...
So after all of the considerations of timber - I’ve now found pine tounge/groove for 1.10 a metre. Might be a few more nails. It will look better in the end. The problem might be squeezing the insulation in behind such a thin board...creeaakkk. Lol.
See if your still thinking about flooring after your “care” package arrives Stix...sent today. Good luck lol
TassieTiger wrote:I am hearing you - absolutely.
The price I’ve been quoted on this stuff is only available IF I buy 1000metres - (only need 400) BUT, the same grade in Bunnings is $4 a lm. SO - I’m thinking...as you do...buy the 1000, do what I need and I sell the remainder at $2 and cover some costs...maybe. And it’s a big maybe...
Ps - you might be disabled if you don’t mix anything with the care package lol. Not sure what it’s like - everyone has different tastes...getting in early incase it’s poo.let me know on that one, got some more maturing in a month...Better, I hope.
TassieTiger wrote:Haha...yes I’m hearing you...but one day...that decking will me needed...one day indeed!!!!
Built my first window last night in the dark after work...this morning I had a quick look before heading to work - should have built it in day light lol.
TassieTiger wrote:I’d just like to say on some type of official type forum - VJ pine line can get rooted. I hate it. It bends in 6 dimensions and doesn’t ever line up...some boards don’t have a groove, some don’t have a tounge, some have 50/50...that being said, one wall done...I hate it. I hate it. I’m going to farkin shoot it!
TassieTiger wrote:Was also pointed out to me - with the insulation in the walls, roof and sisolation being used as well, it’s not going to need much of a heater - so need to be careful I don’t turn it into an oven...meaning my initial pot belly stove idea is out...not sure how to fix that. It will have at least 850 amps of battery for lighting so maybe a small electric heater might work and I’ll just have a big wood heater out the front under the edge of verandah...or some how, maybe run the flu over the outside fire, somehow into and out of the container, put some baffles inside the container flu section, that will warm up...hmmmm....