SCJ429 wrote:How much can you get the Burris for?
JimTom wrote:Have a look at Meopta Meopro 6-18x50.
I have one and rate it. Was somewhere around $800 a year or so ago.
Roo farmer wrote:JimTom wrote:Have a look at Meopta Meopro 6-18x50.
I have one and rate it. Was somewhere around $800 a year or so ago.
Thanks for the suggestion, the adjustment caps look a bit bigger than I was hoping for.
SCJ429 wrote:What have you got against target turrets? Don't like the ease of making elevation adjustments or they get in the way?
SCJ429 wrote:For $700 you have a few choices. Why not a $250 Bushnell, they are not rubbish and the glass is quite acceptable.
Roo farmer wrote:SCJ429 wrote:For $700 you have a few choices. Why not a $250 Bushnell, they are not rubbish and the glass is quite acceptable.
Which particular model Bushnell would you recommend? Or I'm open to anything else suitable with magnification up to 18 or 20 or so?
Stix wrote:
Its not the best scope...but i have a Bushnell Trophy Extreme 3(ish)--15 X 50 with illuminated Xmas tree reticle on a 22-250 for spotlighting & i love it...
The hash marks are handy for me when using reduced trailboss loads for fun close range bunny plinking out to 150 odd yards.
They are not the best optically, but plenty good enough for hunting, & they have a decent weight reticle which is what you want for spotlighting....i think they are worth a look mate--although not the mag youve mentioned above, that scope should be plenty good enough for what (i think) you want...
Roo farmer wrote:Stix wrote:
Its not the best scope...but i have a Bushnell Trophy Extreme 3(ish)--15 X 50 with illuminated Xmas tree reticle on a 22-250 for spotlighting & i love it...
The hash marks are handy for me when using reduced trailboss loads for fun close range bunny plinking out to 150 odd yards.
They are not the best optically, but plenty good enough for hunting, & they have a decent weight reticle which is what you want for spotlighting....i think they are worth a look mate--although not the mag youve mentioned above, that scope should be plenty good enough for what (i think) you want...
I have a scope with up to 14 magnification, and I want a bit more. This may be the wrong thing to think, as I realise that most people have less for a spotlighting situation, but if I find that it's too much I can always wind it back a bit.
I want:
- Something with around the 18 or 20 magnification.
- Narrow knobs, so that it sits on the dashboard nicely as per the photos above.
- Simple reticle, like the wide cross hairs that go narrow in the centre, like what they call Z plex?
- Holds its zero once sighted in. It will rattle around in the rough paddocks a bit.
- 1 click actually moves the point of impact 1/4" (I've had trouble with cheap scopes, 3 clicks barely moves then one more click and it goes about 3/4")
- No unnecessary weird stuff.
I don't know if such a thing actually exists?
I was attracted to the Burris mentioned in the title, as it looked like it has narrow knobs. This is a very difficult thing to judge when researching online, as sometimes the photos are not actually the exact scope. I have been unable to get an answer on whether it has a simple reticle as an option or not.
As for wanting a simple reticle, maybe this is not such a big deal? Maybe a tree type one is not so bad? I've never looked through one, but it seems like a whole heap of clutter that I don't want? I find it difficult to judge distance, so would it just be annoying? Or, when I get better, would I be glad I had it?
I don't care about the brand name. I'm not going to brag to anyone what type of scope I have. In fact probably nobody will ever see it. I want simple rugged performance.
When I say no unneccessary weird stuff, I mean things like this:
Open to any suggestions that fit the description. If there is such a thing?
GQshayne wrote:I wonder if perhaps you think you need more magnification, when in fact what you actually need is better quality.
An example - I am at the range doing some sighting in a while ago. I have an old 2-8 power Japanese Tasco World Class. A good scope in its day. Trying to spot .22 holes in the target, I was struggling, so I grabbed the 10 power binos. Hmmm no good either. I also had my .243 there, so I grabbed it to look through the scope, and I could see them quite easily. The scope is a 6 power Swarovski.
An illuminated reticle is worth you looking at too.
Stix wrote:Your description is open ended...you put question marks after many things--for example with reference to the reticle --you ssid this...
"As for wanting a simple reticle, maybe this is not such a big deal? Maybe a tree type one is not so bad? I've never looked through one, but it seems like a whole heap of clutter that I don't want?"
Three question marks that no one can answer for you...
I believe you need to not only look through one, but spend some time shooting with one to know if you like that type of reticle.
I like them, others dont...some dont like the "clutter"--personally i dont even see the "clutter" unless im looking for it for bullet drop...so the only time ive found a fox hiding behind my reticle is when ive put it there--if you dont know you like them--we dont know either.
Im not trying to be difficult, just saying--no one here knows if you like a drop hash mark reticle if you dont.
As for magnification...i cant speak for others, but i find much beyond 16 mag on a scope with 40mm objective, & 18x on a 50mm objective, & you loose way too much light for shooting in a stubble field from within a car (meaning not elevated)...from back of a ute on moonlit night is different..
Im not sure of your expectations...best i can tell you need a Swarovski Z6i...
Also with regard to reticle'--i believe it to be extremely beneficial to shoot with a medium to heavy reticle for spotlighting--it makes it easier to see/more contrast...
i have no doubt that you will struggle to see, let alone to shoot many roos at 250m with a halogen powered blitz 240 looking through a cheap scope (<$1500-2000) wound up to 24X with a fine reticle on a dark night...not impossible, but difficult...!
I do a fair bit of spotlighting & this is just my opinion...
I also have the Trophy extreme 6-24x50 with the varmint reticle (xmas tree) & the reticle is thick--good for spotlighting big targets like foxes & roos heads- -its not much chop on bunny's heads at 300 during the day though.
But--this reticle isnt illuminated--something else that i brlieve will be beneficial for you.
As for hold zero & consistant click value...i believe anything below $2000-$1500 ish is a gamble--buy something eith lifetime w'tee.
If you find it difficult to judge distance--so do most people (not that they will all admit it).
If you're shooting distances beyond the max point blank for your load, buy a rangefinder with an illuminated reticle--it will help you immensly...but there are always times where perspective will fool you at night using a spotlighy & this will continue throughout your life...!!
Recommendations for your specic use...(that i have actually looked through)...
Bushnell trophy 3-15x50 illuminated...
Bushnell trophy 6-24x50
Swarovski z6i (heavier reticlemodel)
Swarvski z5i (heavier reticle model):thumbsup:
Leopold 6.5-20x50 (not sure if the do a heavier reticle other than fine...? )
I also have a zeiss 5-25 hd5 eith varmint reticle--excellent weight reticle for spotlighting but not illuminated...
Gotta go to bed...
GQshayne wrote:I wonder if perhaps you think you need more magnification, when in fact what you actually need is better quality.
An example - I am at the range doing some sighting in a while ago. I have an old 2-8 power Japanese Tasco World Class. A good scope in its day. Trying to spot .22 holes in the target, I was struggling, so I grabbed the 10 power binos. Hmmm no good either. I also had my .243 there, so I grabbed it to look through the scope, and I could see them quite easily. The scope is a 6 power Swarovski.
An illuminated reticle is worth you looking at too.
Roo farmer wrote:GQshayne wrote:I wonder if perhaps you think you need more magnification, when in fact what you actually need is better quality.
An example - I am at the range doing some sighting in a while ago. I have an old 2-8 power Japanese Tasco World Class. A good scope in its day. Trying to spot .22 holes in the target, I was struggling, so I grabbed the 10 power binos. Hmmm no good either. I also had my .243 there, so I grabbed it to look through the scope, and I could see them quite easily. The scope is a 6 power Swarovski.
An illuminated reticle is worth you looking at too.
Thanks for the suggestion, yes maybe that is a possibility. Pretty hard to know. I believe an illuminated reticle runs on a small button battery. How long do they last?
SCJ429 wrote:GQshayne wrote:I wonder if perhaps you think you need more magnification, when in fact what you actually need is better quality.
An example - I am at the range doing some sighting in a while ago. I have an old 2-8 power Japanese Tasco World Class. A good scope in its day. Trying to spot .22 holes in the target, I was struggling, so I grabbed the 10 power binos. Hmmm no good either. I also had my .243 there, so I grabbed it to look through the scope, and I could see them quite easily. The scope is a 6 power Swarovski.
An illuminated reticle is worth you looking at too.
I had the opposite experience, I could not see .22 bullet holes at 500 with a 12x S&B but no can do. I grabbed my bench rifle and could see them easily, with the 55x Nightforce.
GQshayne wrote:SCJ429 wrote:GQshayne wrote:I wonder if perhaps you think you need more magnification, when in fact what you actually need is better quality.
An example - I am at the range doing some sighting in a while ago. I have an old 2-8 power Japanese Tasco World Class. A good scope in its day. Trying to spot .22 holes in the target, I was struggling, so I grabbed the 10 power binos. Hmmm no good either. I also had my .243 there, so I grabbed it to look through the scope, and I could see them quite easily. The scope is a 6 power Swarovski.
An illuminated reticle is worth you looking at too.
I had the opposite experience, I could not see .22 bullet holes at 500 with a 12x S&B but no can do. I grabbed my bench rifle and could see them easily, with the 55x Nightforce.
Both quality optics though, so I would have thought that should be the case. I know S&B is premium stuff but the Nightforce would be close wouldn't it? In my case, it just illustrated that the quality of the optic was more important than magnification.
sungazer wrote:Roo farmer wrote:GQshayne wrote:I wonder if perhaps you think you need more magnification, when in fact what you actually need is better quality.
An example - I am at the range doing some sighting in a while ago. I have an old 2-8 power Japanese Tasco World Class. A good scope in its day. Trying to spot .22 holes in the target, I was struggling, so I grabbed the 10 power binos. Hmmm no good either. I also had my .243 there, so I grabbed it to look through the scope, and I could see them quite easily. The scope is a 6 power Swarovski.
An illuminated reticle is worth you looking at too.
Thanks for the suggestion, yes maybe that is a possibility. Pretty hard to know. I believe an illuminated reticle runs on a small button battery. How long do they last?
Less than a week if you leave them on.