bladeracer wrote:i don't clean with the goal of a shiny bore, I clean to minimize corrosion and wear and to maintain accuracy. If it shoots well what are you hoping to gain by a few more hours of cleaning?
Apollo wrote:I'm not quite sure I understand your point/post.
Let's start with the photo's. Is the stuff (Sherry) in the glass what you are drinking or what you are pouring down the bore..?? Second photo, get or make yourself some proper cotton patches that are a snug size in the bore (not tight nor loose unless loose just to distribute solvent) and a decent aluminium or stainless steel jag. A jag of the correct size for the bore calibre with appropriate size patch. Don't like the looks of whatever material that patch is made from, doesn't look real good with all the loose fibres hanging of it that can be left behind in the bore.
Hope you are using a Bore Guide, if so does it have a solvent port..??
What solvent are you using..??
Who do you ask. Well I'm a Varminter (short & long range), I'm a 50, 100, 200, 300 & 500 metre Target Shooter also have shot a couple of 1,000m competitions.
My cleaning regime is pretty much the same for any rifle I use except for Rimfire (which doesn't get cleaned normally). I have not used a bronze brush in any rifle of mine for a few decades since I found a solvent that works for me. How many rounds do you shoot between cleans. In my case it can be a few dozen over a week before a clean then putting a rifle away or in competition say 50 rounds then clean at the end of a day.
I use Boretech Eliminator, one loose patch with a half dozen drops then a dry patch to push out all the carbon/powder residue then a nylon brush in the bore guide, put a half to a dozen drops on that the scrub the bore say a dozen or two time and let sit. Have a beer and then dry patch, second patch is usually clean, perhaps the third. In competition I use Moly coated bullets and I don't want to completely clean all the bore out, if a patch comes out with a slight grey tinge then that's enough. I finish with a wet patch of Shellite to clean any solvent out then if the rifle is being stored a patch with some gun oil. I always dry patch any bore before shooting next.
In competitions you can see people scrubbing their bore over and over for 10-15 minutes or more until my arm aches watching them. The ones I see doing that usually are using Sweets and I gave up on that a really long time ago as I don't believe it does the job properly like some more modern solvents. Each to their own though. Use whatever you thinks works for you. My rifles are often looked at by my Gunsmith and he has never seen any residue be it carbon to copper in my bores. He is a NRAA Fullbore F/class shooter.
You don't really need to clean until you get a perfectly clean patch come out but that depends on what the rifle is used for..
I do agree with you. You can ask 20 people how to clean a bore and you might get 20 different answers.
Ricochet wrote:"The thing is, if i push a patch of solvent through and then a dry patch, without scrubbing, it comes out clean, but if I scrub I'll always get something"
Please excuse me if this has been mentioned already as i have not hit hhe bottom of the thread yet.. I'm not sure about a solvent for lead but if you use a copper solvent you might get traces of green on your patches from brass jags and brushes, or nylon brushes that have metal in the middle that hold the bristles together.
marksman wrote:Ricochet wrote:"The thing is, if i push a patch of solvent through and then a dry patch, without scrubbing, it comes out clean, but if I scrub I'll always get something"
Please excuse me if this has been mentioned already as i have not hit hhe bottom of the thread yet.. I'm not sure about a solvent for lead but if you use a copper solvent you might get traces of green on your patches from brass jags and brushes, or nylon brushes that have metal in the middle that hold the bristles together.
a very good reason for not relying on the colour of patches for deciding that your bore is clean, look down the muzzle for copper and fowling
as I said earlier if your barrel is chrome moly steel it will have fouling in the pores so every time you give the bore a scrub you are digging out the fowling from the pores, if there is no copper present looking down the muzzle and your bore feels smooth when pushing a patch through or dragging a nylon brush back after cleaning its not something to lose sleep over I dont adhere to the only looking at the colour of patches to see if the bore is clean and the rubbish that your jag/brush ect will make your patches show colour theory, but each to their own, these are my beliefs that work for me
SCJ429 wrote:Keep the Hoppes for your 22. I also like Boretec, the copper solvent is excellent.
SCJ429 wrote:I have not found Hoppes copper or carbon solvents effective. So much easier to get the job done with Boretec. I found Hoppes copper solvent a waste of time.
Try Boretec Cu+
SCJ429 wrote:I have not found Hoppes copper or carbon solvents effective. So much easier to get the job done with Boretec. I found Hoppes copper solvent a waste of time.
Try Boretec Cu+
Ziad wrote:I tried the nulon foaming intake cleaner and its awesome for carbon
SCJ429 wrote:It is interesting when a company conducts their own research, the data shows the Ballistol lubricant as being three times more effective than Boretech despite it not being a copper solvent.
Thanks for posting the information however, I will look out for the KG product and give it a go.
SCJ429 wrote:The test was to sit a 338 projectile in the product and see how much copper was removed after 17 hours. The result for Ballistol lubricant was 0.3 of a grain. The result for Boretech Cu copper solvent was zero.