marksman wrote:l use rem oil for neck turning, l got it for xmas a few years back, it's not really for cleaning and is not really different to sewing machine oil IMHO
to look after the exterior metalwork of your firearm l would recommend something like coacholine, a leather softener
no idea where to get it, l got mine from a saddle repair shop over 30 years ago and still have a third of a can left
dubbin may work IMO
firearms need something that will coat the metal similar to wax for a cars paint ect... and they wont rust
l do use kiwi boot polish "neutral" under the action, put it on and buff it off and l can leave a firearm for many years without a worry
be careful of sprays as the spray can go under your bedding causing an accuracy fall off especially with alum bedding blocks,
it can also be the cause of wood rot, better to spray on a rag and wipe over
its how l do it
TassieTiger wrote:Aliqua - are you also asking re bore run in / bore cleaning after shooting ? Because that’s another question all together...and again will result in many opinions / products. I assume you have a cleaning rod, brushes, jag, etc.
Ziege wrote:Love the pedantic cleaning regimes, my old man has a model 70 and a CMC Mountaineer he has had since the 70s, never once used fancy solvents, never once used anything other than maybe some crc or wd40 or ballistol, wipes down the outside blued steel with whatever oil he has on a rag. Guns still have their blued finish, shoot as straight as any other, and the stocks finishes are in good nick despite a few NICs and scratches from the last 40+ years
Ziege wrote:Well, both his rifles shoot in a way that would make a target shooter envious, his eyesight is ****** and he can take out a 1" chain link from 220m still with the mountaineer, had a few F class shooters here one day and they couldn't believe their eyes, all their firmly held beliefs thrown out in one cold bore shot
in2anity wrote:Nothin wrong with hoppes 9 - I used that alone for cleaning for years, it’s just a helluva lot more work and patching to get the copper out. An ammonia based cleaner seems to do the same in about a tenth of the time.
Another important tool i might add is a good bore guide; one that also stop chems from leaking back into the action. Oh and obviously, a good quality, one piece rod. And be gentle with her, slow and steady wins the race, and be sure to have her slightly tilted forward so any chem runs out of the muzzle.
Aliqua wrote:Only thing that has annoyed me so far about my rifle is the cheek rest.. I have to drop it everytime I want to run the rod through and then put it back up (I really have to stop being so pucky/lazy) hahah!!!!
in2anity wrote:Aliqua wrote:Only thing that has annoyed me so far about my rifle is the cheek rest.. I have to drop it everytime I want to run the rod through and then put it back up (I really have to stop being so pucky/lazy) hahah!!!!
Get a smaller scope, and mount it lower, then your weld will be lower!
Aliqua wrote:Who wants to buy a brand new, never used (outside) NF NXS 8-32x56 so I can clean my bore easier?
Aliqua wrote:
So where do most of you get a "decent" bore scope from?
Ziege wrote:Love the pedantic cleaning regimes, my old man has a model 70 and a CMC Mountaineer he has had since the 70s, never once used fancy solvents, never once used anything other than maybe some crc or wd40 or ballistol, wipes down the outside blued steel with whatever oil he has on a rag. Guns still have their blued finish, shoot as straight as any other, and the stocks finishes are in good nick despite a few NICs and scratches from the last 40+ years