Oldbloke wrote:LawrenceA wrote:Minimums are potentially as critical as the maximum if not more so.
Going below maximum Typo should say minimum may lead to a phenomenon called detonation. They think it is when the powder fizzes then ignites in a pressurized case or the fizz propels the remaining powder against the base of the bullet that acts like an obstruction. Either way the gun does more then go bang.
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LawrenceA wrote:Minimums are potentially as critical as the maximum if not more so.
Going below minimum may lead to a phenomenon called detonation. They think it is when the powder fizzes then ignites in a pressurized case or the fizz propels the remaining powder against the base of the bullet that acts like an obstruction. Either way the gun does more then go bang.
Further generally speaking a powder close to full capacity will ignite and burn more consistently than a faster lesser load.
However My 6.5 Tikka shoots best with the fastest powder and I mean 0.2 moa vs 1.0 moa.
Basically I would start at minimum and work up in probably 1 or even 2 grain increments (work out the range and divide by 5) then re test once you determine the points at which the group stops shrinking and starts expanding.
2206H is a different beast as you can start at 50% versus 60 or 70% capacity.
Oldbloke wrote:All good Lawrence.
It was easier to just fix it.
Oldbloke wrote:Off another forum. I would consider this an overload.
boingk wrote:For someone who may not know what they're looking at with that picture, the dead-flush-and-filled primer pocket coupled with the slightly cratered firing pin indent is a good indication its overloaded.
That round may or may not have also had a hard extraction - you would likely feel something different if extracting a round similar to the above, a sticky/hard bolt turn or hard pull to the rear for example. You also may not.
Paul wrote:No thoughts on going under the 'starting' load?
Kind regards,
Paul
on_one_wheel wrote:I don't see any value in starting under, besides the previously mentioned safety factor, even if still safe it's a waste of time and powder.
In most cases, the objective of hand loading is to find a recipe that gives you the fastest possible combination without showing over pressure signs, the faster speed within an accuracy node will give you the best performance from your projectile, shoot flatter, be less affected by wind.
Hopefully you've got your hands on a reloading book like one of Nick Harvey's.
They are priceless when starting out.
Paul wrote:Hi all,
Wanting to develop a load for a new 22-250 (Tikka T3x).
Ive searched EGun forum, and not gotten a clear answer. Searched YouTube, same outcome. So here I am asking you folks for help once again
There seems to be a few ideas of where to start a load, much less on where to stop - pretty much unanimous in when you get pressure signs.
Some options I have seen include:
* Start at the minimum for that powder and go up in 0.2gr increments.
* Start at 10% below minimum and go up in 0.5gr inc. (for 2206H this gives 13 possible loads to maximum!!!)
* Start 7% below maximum and work up.
* Start 1/3 the way up from min to max, and increase by increments of 1% of maximum load e.g. 1% x 35.5 = 0.355gr. (I have tried this method, works OK, but misses the lighter end of the load range).
So I'm a bit lost and wondering what you guys do? I'm keen to explore the bottom end, even just under minimum coz in my old rifle, I got good results from a load suggested to me that was 1gr under min, when none of my try outs were anywhere near that light.
Over to yous
Paul
Paul wrote:Thanks for all the post so far. Yes, my mistake, I actually meant 'starting' load, as stated in most powder manuals. I'm aware of the issues with loads that are too light and issues with 'funky' ignition.
I still get the sense that there is a leaning towards seeking loads at the upper end of the range. No thoughts on going under the 'starting' load?
Kind regards,
Paul
wanneroo wrote:I've seen reloaders ask this, especially new reloaders and they are looking for a specific formula to follow starting a load. I don't believe there is one. All depends on the cartridge and it's quirks, what bullet you are using, what powder and perhaps even what primer. And then plus you have to take into account the firearm itself and it's quirks.
This is why I believe it's a good idea to have multiple manuals plus online materials. So I take in account all the above factors, research it and then reach a consensus on what I think will be my starting load.
The other thing is you need data to compare with the written materials you have researched, so I recommend you verify your data with a chronograph when testing your loads. Recently I bought a Magnetospeed which attaches to the barrel of the rifle and is very compact and easy to use compared to setting up a traditional chrono.
wanneroo wrote:I've seen reloaders ask this, especially new reloaders and they are looking for a specific formula to follow starting a load. I don't believe there is one. All depends on the cartridge and it's quirks, what bullet you are using, what powder and perhaps even what primer. And then plus you have to take into account the firearm itself and it's quirks.
bladeracer wrote:
I don't consider a chronograph essential, but it can give you useful data. The velocities listed with load data are also individual to the specific test setup.
It takes less effort to "set up" my chronographs than it would take you to strap yours on, I stand it on the tripod (it stays attached to a tripod) in front of my rifle, switch it on, and start shooting, it's very, very quick and easy to use.
Does the Magnetospeed work on semi-auto handguns?
wanneroo wrote:At some point I might get one of those fancy Labradar chronos.