What brand and model is best suited ?

[Die Judicii]

I'm in the market for a rifle vice/clamp,, that I want specifically to aid in the zeroing of scopes.
ie: fire a shot and then wind the reticle to the impact point.
I've tried two commercially available rifle rests,,,, as well as a home made job,, but they don't hold the rifle securely with zero movement
while your adjusting the reticle. (at least, not well enough for my liking)

What would you folk out there recommend that would do the job well and also be easy to use without stretching the neck up and over
a bulky clamping system.

[bladeracer]

I'm in the market for a rifle vice/clamp,, that I want specifically to aid in the zeroing of scopes.
ie: fire a shot and then wind the reticle to the impact point.
I've tried two commercially available rifle rests,,,, as well as a home made job,, but they don't hold the rifle securely with zero movement
while your adjusting the reticle. (at least, not well enough for my liking)

What would you folk out there recommend that would do the job well and also be easy to use without stretching the neck up and over
a bulky clamping system.

Bags are fine for this, even a nice big jacket rolled up. I do it regularly and I don't have any fancy rests. If you have turrets that need a screwdriver or coin to make adjustments that will make it more difficult.

[deye243]

I have a bogpod and have used a mates $1500 pod with arca rail and was talking to him about the two his obviously was more stable but none of them will be like shooting off bags completely different sighting in than it is shooting stick to bags portable table or bonnet of the car or whatever

[Die Judicii]

Yeah thanks.
The adjustment turrets on my scopes have a serrated edge which is great to grip and turn,,, however, they are all reasonably
stiff to do so and as a result the damm rifle always moves enough to put you into the "where the hell was it sitting ??? " scenario.

[bladeracer]

Yeah thanks.
The adjustment turrets on my scopes have a serrated edge which is great to grip and turn,,, however, they are all reasonably
stiff to do so and as a result the damn rifle always moves enough to put you into the "where the hell was it sitting ??? " scenario.

Maybe just practice counting the clicks then, should work just as well.
If your scope has minute graduations around the reticle you can see precisely how far out you are in both directions. Put your crosshair on the aim point and count the hash marks out to the bullet hole in both axes. If you don't have a graduated reticle, rule a grid of 29mm squares around the target if you're shooting at 100m, then just count the squares to know how many minutes you need to adjust. If you're shooting at 50m rule a 14.5mm grid - each square will be a minute. At 25m rule a 7.25mm grid, or just use the 14.5mm and remember each square is two-minutes. Using a one-minute grid saves you having to calculate or convert anything as the scope is also calibrated in minutes.

Turn the turrets the direction you want the bullet hole to move to your point of aim.
If your bullet hole is two-and-a-half squares left (2.5-minutes) and three squares high (3-minutes) of where you wanted it, adjust it 2.5-minutes Right and 3-minutes Down. Fire a second shot and hopefully it'll be spot on. For me, shot two will generally be 5-minutes left and 6-minutes high because I always turn them the wrong bloody way! Shot three will be spot on though

If you're using milliradians rule a 20mm or 10mm grid instead.

The distance will depend on how accurate the rifle is, if it doesn't group a minute or better I would shoot five shots at the aiming point then take a rough centre of that group and adjust the scope to hit there. You can more precisely determine the centre of the group by estimating how far each of the bullet holes is from the vertical and horizontal axes of the point of aim, then average both to get the mean distance from both axes. You can do this through your scope fairly accurately if you have enough magnification and a grid marked out. This is easier if all your shots are in one quadrant, but it's not essential.
A roughly 38mm group at 100m estimating through your scope to the nearest quarter of a square:
Shot #1 is 3.5MoA left and 2.5MoA high,
Shot #2 is 2.75MoA left and 3MoA high,
Shot #3 is 2.25MoA left and 3MoA high,
Shot #4 is 3.25MoA left and 2.75MoA high,
Shot #5 is 3MoA left and 3.75MoA high.
Your average group centre is 2.95MoA left, and 3MoA high.

Minute scopes generally have quarter-minute clicks, but higher-magnification scopes might have eighth-minute, lower magnification scopes might have half- or even full-minute clicks. Some cheaper scopes might be 1"-in-100yd though rather than minutes - very annoying (in this case rule a one-inch grid). MilRad scopes are usually one-tenth-of-a-mil clicks I think (each click is 10mm at 100m).

[JimTom]

Mate I just use a bipod and a rear bag off the bench for zeroing.

[niteowl]

rest 6a cut.jpg (72.02 KiB) Viewed 1835 times

rest 5a cut.jpg (52.98 KiB) Viewed 1835 times

rest 3 a cut.jpg (61.46 KiB) Viewed 1835 times

You need to be aware that the "zero" you get may not be the same as when you actually use the firearm because of the way you hold it when in use. This works for me but not exact when my son shoots it.
Been modified a bit since the pics. Now has balanced springs, ie Springs both ways.

[No1Mk3]

The very best retailed option for your question would be a Ransom Master Forensic Test rig, many many $1000's and can be had from Paul Britten Imports. Coming down to Earth, a Caldwell Lead or Hydro-Sled for around $700, imported by NIOA, I use a cheaper MTM Predator which holds the rifle well enough for me to adjust even fairly stiff old turets, they can still be found under $100, Cheers.