Nath__111 wrote:Hi all, I am about to start loading and testing some of my 243 Winchester loads as I haven’t done any reloading before I thought I’d just run a couple of questions by you guys. So my cases have all been de-primed, sized and cleaned and are ready to start reloading.
I am going to be running 87g hornady v-max projectiles with AR2209 powder and I have both Cci and federal primers so I am going to do 6 of each load weight with 3 being Cci and the other 3 being federal primers to see if there is much of a difference.
The load data I have is starting weight 39 grain minimum and 43.5 grain maximum. I got this information off ADI’s website and I just wanted to run it by you guys to check that this is correct as i can’t find any other load data anywhere.
The other two questions I have is:
How far into the case is the correct primer seating depth?
And the other questions is:
Do I lube the projectiles when pressing them into the brass and if so what lube do you Recommend / use.
As always any help is always greatly appreciated. Cheers guys.
SCJ429 wrote:The correct depth for your primer is that it bottoms out in the primer pocket. You should be able to feel it as you push it in with your seating tool. It should not be proud of the case base.
I leave the carbon on the inside of the neck from the previous firing and it acts as a little friction reducer for the pill. Unfired or cleaned brass is very grippy and adds to neck tension. To reduce that I dip the necks in graphite powder before seating the projectile. You don't need to do this, I do this for consistency.
I wouldn't bother testing one primer with another, I use CCI, and you won't see amazing improvement one over the other. Just use one type and stick to it.
Nath__111 wrote:Thanks heaps guys for all you information and reply’s I really appreciate it. I’ll definitely take all the information on board and see how I go. I’ll let you know how I go and my results once I’m done and have shot a few. Again thanks heaps guys, cheers.
It's not just about accuracy there is other reasons and as I said it only works short term , it is a waste of time for those who want't clean it out all the time but that's not how to use it . You are obviously not interested in anything else other than your view so I will save my breath any further .SCJ429 wrote:How long ago was this case loaded? It wasn't carbon that caused this. Carbon does not react with copper or brass. Clean brass is difficult to get consistent neck tension, go to any benchrest comp and see who uses freshly cleaned brass, absolutely no one. Up to you if you don't like graphite powder, just a trace of carbon from the previous firing works well.
As for moly, all power to you if you are a fan but the rest of the accuracy shooters have moved on 20 years ago. No advantage and a waste of time and effort.
Oldbloke wrote:Here's one for the experts.
When I FLS my cases I put a tiny amount of lube inside the neck. Diff oil in the past, lately using coconut oil.
I don't bother cleaning it out. Will that matter?
Oldbloke wrote:Here's one for the experts.
When I FLS my cases I put a tiny amount of lube inside the neck. Diff oil in the past, lately using coconut oil.
I don't bother cleaning it out. Will that matter?
JohnV wrote:It's not just about accuracy there is other reasons and as I said it only works short term , it is a waste of time for those who want't clean it out all the time but that's not how to use it . You are obviously not interested in anything else other than your view so I will save my breath any further .SCJ429 wrote:How long ago was this case loaded? It wasn't carbon that caused this. Carbon does not react with copper or brass. Clean brass is difficult to get consistent neck tension, go to any benchrest comp and see who uses freshly cleaned brass, absolutely no one. Up to you if you don't like graphite powder, just a trace of carbon from the previous firing works well.
As for moly, all power to you if you are a fan but the rest of the accuracy shooters have moved on 20 years ago. No advantage and a waste of time and effort.
SCJ429 wrote:Oldbloke wrote:Here's one for the experts.
When I FLS my cases I put a tiny amount of lube inside the neck. Diff oil in the past, lately using coconut oil.
I don't bother cleaning it out. Will that matter?
Not saying I am an expert but if you are using dies with an expanded ball you will need a bit of lube to get the ball back through the neck without having to use a lot of force and possibly bending you necks. A small amount of residual lube is not going to have a ton of influence in your loads but I would find another way to resize with bushing dies.
I bet you loads smell nice if you are using coconut oil
Oldbloke wrote:SCJ429 wrote:Oldbloke wrote:Here's one for the experts.
When I FLS my cases I put a tiny amount of lube inside the neck. Diff oil in the past, lately using coconut oil.
I don't bother cleaning it out. Will that matter?
Not saying I am an expert but if you are using dies with an expanded ball you will need a bit of lube to get the ball back through the neck without having to use a lot of force and possibly bending you necks. A small amount of residual lube is not going to have a ton of influence in your loads but I would find another way to resize with bushing dies.
I bet you loads smell nice if you are using coconut oil
Yep, just using the basic two dies sets. FL and seating.
It's been suggested it could effect the loads but I reckon such a minute amount would do SFA.
Yea, when I use coconut oil I want to eat them. But I used lanolin once I had a strong urge to migrate to NZ with a bag full of condoms.
JohnV wrote:If there is any residue of oil inside a case neck it can cause powder bridges when you run the powder charge into the case .
There is no need to use any kind of wet lube for neck sizing . Use a dry lube made up of 50% lock graphite available from lock smiths and 50% " fine grade" Moly powder usually available from bearing suppliers . Mix it well together and put it in a tobacco tin with some 2 to BB size steel ball bearings depending on caliber . Rub your fingers around the case neck then dip it in and out of the tin a few times . Once the die has done a few the die gets coated and the sizing process gets smoother , straighter , and less work hardening on the brass . Moly and Graphite does not harm powder charge in any way . I have done many thousands that way in my time . If you separate neck and body sizing operations it makes lubrication much easier. Dry lube on the neck and a wet lube or spray on the body , just roll the case on a lube pad and it's done then size with Redding body die or if you can't buy a body die for an unusual cartridge , cut the head off the FLS die just 10 mm longer than the case and drill the neck out from the " inside " .010 larger neck diameter than your " loaded round " neck diameter . Inspect inside , clean up any burs and voila custom body die . The body die never touches the case neck but can bump the shoulder back but it is so easy to use . If a case gets stuck which it never will it's dead easy to tap it out with punch rod and hammer . You may have to buy a neck size only die if you only had a FLS die .
Oldbloke wrote:Oh dear,
I FLS and have no intention to neck size...period..
So forget graphite.
What is the negative if a tiny amount of lube is left in the case neck?
geoff wrote:Oldbloke wrote:SCJ429 wrote:Oldbloke wrote:Here's one for the experts.
When I FLS my cases I put a tiny amount of lube inside the neck. Diff oil in the past, lately using coconut oil.
I don't bother cleaning it out. Will that matter?
Not saying I am an expert but if you are using dies with an expanded ball you will need a bit of lube to get the ball back through the neck without having to use a lot of force and possibly bending you necks. A small amount of residual lube is not going to have a ton of influence in your loads but I would find another way to resize with bushing dies.
I bet you loads smell nice if you are using coconut oil
Yep, just using the basic two dies sets. FL and seating.
It's been suggested it could effect the loads but I reckon such a minute amount would do SFA.
Yea, when I use coconut oil I want to eat them. But I used lanolin once I had a strong urge to migrate to NZ with a bag full of condoms.
I have made my own lanolin case lube recently and boy howdy does that smell get on everything too! It's kinda like diesel in the way that it just gets on surfaces and spreads everywhere
animalpest wrote:JohnV what are the "other reasons"?.
Just curious