3D printers

[Flyonline]

Anyone got one?

Worked out the other day I'd probably have paid for one many times over with small plastic parts I've bought, or could make to use. Not interested in doing firearm parts, just bit's n pieces around the home and whatnot.

Does anyone have any specific info on locally available ones, not too interested in going the Temu route etc. Jaycar is about the only shop I can get to locally easily, but there may be others I've not thought of yet.

Doesn't have to be huge, small desktop would be fine and I'm pretty competent with PCs and design software so I have no worries there as I've used a number of CAD programs for other stuff before.

Thanks

Steve

[bladeracer]

My daughter's husband started up a "business" last year printing toys. They have a few running 24/7. I'm always thinking of things that would be worth printing but can never come up with anything

[Blr243]

With so many different types available at different prices I can’t imagine it would be easy making the right choice as to what’s right for you and what you want to do with it

[Jorlcrin]

Anyone got one?

Worked out the other day I'd probably have paid for one many times over with small plastic parts I've bought, or could make to use. Not interested in doing firearm parts, just bit's n pieces around the home and whatnot.

Does anyone have any specific info on locally available ones, not too interested in going the Temu route etc. Jaycar is about the only shop I can get to locally easily, but there may be others I've not thought of yet.

Doesn't have to be huge, small desktop would be fine and I'm pretty competent with PCs and design software so I have no worries there as I've used a number of CAD programs for other stuff before.

Thanks

Steve

Yep; I've had two of them so far, and seriously contemplating my third...
Mine were both FDM printers, rather than resin-bath.
First one (Flashforge Creatoor Pro 2016) had 2 extruders, though I had a lot of difficulty keeping the second one working properly, and eventually removed it.
Creator Pro has a build volume of around 4.5 litres max.
Second one(still in use) is a Flashforge Guider IIs, with the High-temp Mod and Swiss Hot End Mod, which gives it a print temp of up to 300 degrees, and build volume is around 21 litres max.

First question would be what sort of plastic you intend to print?

PLA (The most common starting plastic) is great, is biodegradeable, but starts to deform in temps as low as the high 40's.
It's also vulnerable to direct sunlight(UV).
But it's hard when printed, and it prints well, so handy if you dont expect it to be exposed to high temps.
Also REALLY handy to get your hand in on printing plastics.
There are 'Blends' of PLA that include wood or various metal powders, to give them additional characteristics, but the heat/UV restrictions dont really change.

So, next is either ABS, or (my preference) ASA.
Difference between these 2(in everyday use) is that ASA is more resistant to degradation in direct sunlight.
But both ABS and ASA need more heat in the build process, and usually require both a heated platform, as well as an enclosure to control the temp around the print.
However; neither ABS or ASA are perfect; they arent biodegradeable at all, and so you need to consider how you keep your worksite from becoming covered in microplastics.
Fumes from ABS and ASA are bad for you, so need a well-ventilated area (prefer fume extraction if possible), if you value your health over time.
PLA doesnt produce anything nasty (as far as I understand), and is supposed to be biodegradeable, due to being made from plants.
I have sucessfully printed things like remote camera mounts to fit to road-sign posts, as well as things like switch cutouts for a Landcruiser dash, Icom UHF handheld radio base brackets, A jig for aligning stamps onto an alloy plate, a bolt protector for a Tikka T3, little potting containers for Mum, Torpedo bottle holders for display, Archery Light mounts, a multi-level pen-holder based on a lazy susan bearing, etc etc etc.

There are heaps of other plastics, but the most common starter is PLA, and people often then migrate onto ABS.

Next question is whether you want one extruder or two.
2 Extruders gives you options for running a second plastic that dissolves, and so you can print much more complex shapes with them.
Single extruder can print support structures, but it does so in the same plastic, and so require more post-print work.
Some types of dual extruder printers can also run in IDEX mode, where each extruder prints a copy of the same item.

My next printer that I hope to buy in the next 6-12 months, will be around the same build volume as the Guider(21L), or slightly less.
It will be dual extruder, both running at least 300 degrees, but prefer 350.
It will be an enclosed chamber with a heated platform that can go up to 120 degrees.
It will have both IDEX and quick-change extruders(to swap out in the event of a jam or blockage).
It will have network, including wi-fi, as well as option for memory card or USB stick.
It will have a camera for watching the print.
It will have the trickery to cancel out the vibrations(increases speed).
Much of this above list the Guider already does, but mine lacks the option of a dual extruder, so some of the really complex projects I'd like to try, will be nigh impossible on a single extruder.

I'd also recommend a UPS to filter the power to the printer as well.

There is an Australian brand made down in Melbourne, but I've heard some mixed stories about them.
I bought some filament from them, and not 100% sure, but it might have been the root cause for buggering the extruder on my Guider last year.
[More to that story, and I cant be sure, but the QC on that filament seems rather varied.]

Anyway, if you have more questions, PM me, and I can tell you more about my experiences, as well give you a list of some of the items I've printed, as well as the ones I've designed, but am yet to print.

[Flyonline]

First question would be what sort of plastic you intend to print?

PLA (The most common starting plastic) is great, is biodegradeable, but starts to deform in temps as low as the high 40's.
It's also vulnerable to direct sunlight(UV).
But it's hard when printed, and it prints well, so handy if you dont expect it to be exposed to high temps.
Also REALLY handy to get your hand in on printing plastics.
There are 'Blends' of PLA that include wood or various metal powders, to give them additional characteristics, but the heat/UV restrictions dont really change.

So, next is either ABS, or (my preference) ASA.
Difference between these 2(in everyday use) is that ASA is more resistant to degradation in direct sunlight.
But both ABS and ASA need more heat in the build process, and usually require both a heated platform, as well as an enclosure to control the temp around the print.
However; neither ABS or ASA are perfect; they arent biodegradeable at all, and so you need to consider how you keep your worksite from becoming covered in microplastics.
Fumes from ABS and ASA are bad for you, so need a well-ventilated area (prefer fume extraction if possible), if you value your health over time.
PLA doesnt produce anything nasty (as far as I understand), and is supposed to be biodegradeable, due to being made from plants.
I have sucessfully printed things like remote camera mounts to fit to road-sign posts, as well as things like switch cutouts for a Landcruiser dash, Icom UHF handheld radio base brackets, A jig for aligning stamps onto an alloy plate, a bolt protector for a Tikka T3, little potting containers for Mum, Torpedo bottle holders for display, Archery Light mounts, a multi-level pen-holder based on a lazy susan bearing, etc etc etc.

There are heaps of other plastics, but the most common starter is PLA, and people often then migrate onto ABS.

From what you've said, I'm assuming PLA, I can't think of anything that will be exposed to high heat as it would mostly be hobby type stuff and I don't do much other than fishing when it gets that hot. I do like the idea of keeping it relatively safe, I can open up the shed to use, but don't have/won't get extractors at the moment. Sounds like it would keep the complexity down with not needing the extra heated platform.

Next question is whether you want one extruder or two.
2 Extruders gives you options for running a second plastic that dissolves, and so you can print much more complex shapes with them.
Single extruder can print support structures, but it does so in the same plastic, and so require more post-print work.
Some types of dual extruder printers can also run in IDEX mode, where each extruder prints a copy of the same item.

Single for now I think. I'm not aiming to sell anything or make super complex stuff. I recently bought a focus wheel for a scope and this is the kind of simple thing I'd be aiming to make.

I'd also recommend a UPS to filter the power to the printer as well.

There is an Australian brand made down in Melbourne, but I've heard some mixed stories about them.
I bought some filament from them, and not 100% sure, but it might have been the root cause for buggering the extruder on my Guider last year.
[More to that story, and I cant be sure, but the QC on that filament seems rather varied.]

Anyway, if you have more questions, PM me, and I can tell you more about my experiences, as well give you a list of some of the items I've printed, as well as the ones I've designed, but am yet to print.

Roger, will have a look at UPS's as well. I'm not fixed on buying Oz made (though would be good), more a local shop to a) keep them going and b) can go back if needed.

Can you suggest a simple model/make for me to have a look at? The pool of options seems so big it's kinda hard to know where to start, so if I can jump off someone else's shoulders it makes it so much easier.

Thanks for all your help!!

Steve

[Jorlcrin]

Two more common sources for 3D printer brands, are US Made/Designed(likely all made in China these days..), or China made.

Brand Names that have a fairly solid rep:-
Creality,
Ender,
MakerBot,
UltiMaker,
FormBot,
Flashforge
Mingda(Seems to be more focused on commercial)
TierTime.

[There are more, but I'm not familiar with them..]


My Flashforge printers are made in China, but they seem to have solid support in Australia as far as spare parts etc.
I'm quite happy with how both my Flashforge printers have worked.
Had issues with the first one as far as the second extruder, but this is more than likely fixable, but by the time I realised that, I was moving on as to what I wanted from the printer, so I havent pursued resolving the second extruder.

Which likely raises another point; As with any new gear/tech, you will likely find the first printer you buy, gives you a firm idea of what you REALLY want out of the printer.
Dont be too surprised if you find the first printer turns out to be okay, but not exactly what you are chasing.

3D Printer Superstore might be a good place to look; I see they are based in Victoria, so might be worth looking at:-
https://3dprintersuperstore.com.au/

From the specs you have given, I'd consider looking at either of these:-
CREALITY K1C [https://3dprintersuperstore.com.au/collections/creality-3d-printers/products/k1c]
Flashforge Adventurer 5M PRO [https://3dprintersuperstore.com.au/collections/3d-printers/products/adventurer-5m-pro]

Both are enclosed; I wouldnt recommend an open printer, as the mess will spread quickly, and the mechanical parts will gather dust really quickly.
Both can handle plastics in addition to PLA, and both have heated beds, which you will find makes life easier.
And both should be available for well under $900, with a couple of rolls of filament thrown in.


Just note that I'm NOT recommending you buy either of these printers, but I think they are pretty close to what would make you happy to start out with.
I get that $900 might be higher than you are looking to spend, but my own experience with 3D printers, I wouldnt be buying an open-carriage one, unless I had a dedicated work room that I can control the environment(ie aircon, fume extraction, etc etc).
[And even then, I'd lean towards one of the enclosed units..]

One final learning; avoid printer makes/models that require their own filament to be used.
Most hobby/home models these days are 'open-source' when it comes to choice of filaments, but some of the earlier trendy models required only using their own filament.
Here in Australia, you need the option to be able to use any quality filament that you can source.

Anyway; Hope this helps.
Might be simpler to PM me if you are chasing more info/detail.

[stihl88]

I highly recommend one if you're that way inclined, they're amazing. I've been running a 3D printer for 5 years now and couldn't do with out it. Sometimes it will sit unused for months, but it is a godsend when designing and prototyping parts.

Machines
Can't go wrong with the Bambu Labs X1C or P1S especially if you've never used one as they're pretty forgiving compared to when i got into them years ago. They have an AU store front and Christmas specials atm https://au.store.bambulab.com/pages/end ... rom=banner

If your anywhere near Ringwood then check out Auraum https://aurarum.com.au/, they carry Australian made through to middle line Chinese machines like Creality and upper echelon like the Bambu Labs. Not sure on their stock availibilty. They make filament in house and it is good stuff and reasonably priced.

Stay away from resin printers, if you need something made out of resin then just get them quoted with PCBway.

Filaments
- PLA or even PPLA is a good all rounder filament, great for prototyping.
- TPU makes excellent buffer material, so far i've designed the buffers for and had over 100 H&K 270, 300 & 770 firearms resurected due to their failed factory buffers (turned to mush) which are unobtanium now. Good to see as these firearms are essentially dust collectors otherwise!
- Nylon etc, can be hard to master and used only for specific componentry,
- Mixed (Carbon Fiber + PLA etc) Can be good for strength over stock PLA but they do emit fibers so you'll want a cover and exhaust filter, another reason to consider the Bambu Labs machine.

Slicing Software
Can't go wrong with the Ultimaker Cura slicing program but there are better, it's a matter of sticking with what you're use to i guess...

Designing/Prototyping Software
I use a combination of Sketchup and Autodesk Fusion when prototyping... If you had to start from scratch i'd say bite the bullet and learn Autodesk Fusion as sketchup is somewhat easier to learn but has it's limits and drawbacks. And you can get a "hobbyist" free licensed version of Fusion

[Flyonline]

Thanks gents, appreciate the time and effort for the long replies. Will do some serious research when I get a chance.

[Maxjon]

I highly recommend one if you're that way inclined, they're amazing. I've been running a 3D printer for 5 years now and couldn't do with out it. Sometimes it will sit unused for months, but it is a godsend when designing and prototyping parts.

Machines
Can't go wrong with the Bambu Labs X1C or P1S especially if you've never used one as they're pretty forgiving compared to when i got into them years ago. They have an AU store front and Christmas specials atm https://au.store.bambulab.com/pages/end ... rom=banner

If your anywhere near Ringwood then check out Auraum https://aurarum.com.au/, they carry Australian made through to middle line Chinese machines like Creality and upper echelon like the Bambu Labs. Not sure on their stock availibilty. They make filament in house and it is good stuff and reasonably priced.

Stay away from resin printers, if you need something made out of resin then just get them quoted with PCBway.

Filaments
- PLA or even PPLA is a good all rounder filament, great for prototyping.
- TPU makes excellent buffer material, so far i've designed the buffers for and had over 100 H&K 270, 300 & 770 firearms resurected due to their failed factory buffers (turned to mush) which are unobtanium now. Good to see as these firearms are essentially dust collectors otherwise!
- Nylon etc, can be hard to master and used only for specific componentry,
- Mixed (Carbon Fiber + PLA etc) Can be good for strength over stock PLA but they do emit fibers so you'll want a cover and exhaust filter, another reason to consider the Bambu Labs machine.

Slicing Software
Can't go wrong with the Ultimaker Cura slicing program but there are better, it's a matter of sticking with what you're use to i guess...

Designing/Prototyping Software
I use a combination of Sketchup and Autodesk Fusion when prototyping... If you had to start from scratch i'd say bite the bullet and learn Autodesk Fusion as sketchup is somewhat easier to learn but has it's limits and drawbacks. And you can get a "hobbyist" free licensed version of Fusion

Might check out the Sketchup as I only like printing my own inventions, not ornaments. Plus my laptop wont run Fusion.....

[ob1]

I started with a Creality Ender 3 V2, using PLA and PETG. I thought that I would upgrade it to another machine after a while, but years later it has printed everything that I wanted and it is simple to use, with a heated bed.
Creality offer free postage and you get your printer direct from the manufacturer, with models including auto level and heated bed starting around $250 delivered. Not much money to spend to try it and see how you like 3d printing. Jaycar stores usually stock the printer, as well.

https://store.creality.com/au/products/ ... AQQAvD_BwE

Review - https://youtu.be/EL8ehEYPTCk?si=sggTYYFYl8NcXGW_

[stihl88]

I highly recommend one if you're that way inclined, they're amazing. I've been running a 3D printer for 5 years now and couldn't do with out it. Sometimes it will sit unused for months, but it is a godsend when designing and prototyping parts.

Machines
Can't go wrong with the Bambu Labs X1C or P1S especially if you've never used one as they're pretty forgiving compared to when i got into them years ago. They have an AU store front and Christmas specials atm https://au.store.bambulab.com/pages/end ... rom=banner

If your anywhere near Ringwood then check out Auraum https://aurarum.com.au/, they carry Australian made through to middle line Chinese machines like Creality and upper echelon like the Bambu Labs. Not sure on their stock availibilty. They make filament in house and it is good stuff and reasonably priced.

Stay away from resin printers, if you need something made out of resin then just get them quoted with PCBway.

Filaments
- PLA or even PPLA is a good all rounder filament, great for prototyping.
- TPU makes excellent buffer material, so far i've designed the buffers for and had over 100 H&K 270, 300 & 770 firearms resurected due to their failed factory buffers (turned to mush) which are unobtanium now. Good to see as these firearms are essentially dust collectors otherwise!
- Nylon etc, can be hard to master and used only for specific componentry,
- Mixed (Carbon Fiber + PLA etc) Can be good for strength over stock PLA but they do emit fibers so you'll want a cover and exhaust filter, another reason to consider the Bambu Labs machine.

Slicing Software
Can't go wrong with the Ultimaker Cura slicing program but there are better, it's a matter of sticking with what you're use to i guess...

Designing/Prototyping Software
I use a combination of Sketchup and Autodesk Fusion when prototyping... If you had to start from scratch i'd say bite the bullet and learn Autodesk Fusion as sketchup is somewhat easier to learn but has it's limits and drawbacks. And you can get a "hobbyist" free licensed version of Fusion

Might check out the Sketchup as I only like printing my own inventions, not ornaments. Plus my laptop wont run Fusion.....

Sketchup is a great product but expensive for what it is. FreeCad is another one, i haven't used it but i beleive it's 1/2 way between Fusion 360 and Sketchup.

[Lorgar]

I'm waiting for the day when printing aluminum at home is doable.

I'd love to have a 3D printer to do custom brackets and mounting for my 4WD, and things like that, but for everything I'd use it for at the moment plastic isn't strong enough.

Oh, and printing "machine guns" of course... Is that still something the media is harping on about as the danger of 3D printers?

(Any law enforcement reading this, it's a joke... get over it.)

[Bergararse]

I got this one, it is pretty much plug and play. Very good for beginners and reasonably priced. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QfnvKCO9YO0

Almost like an Appliance, the software takes a bit to get used to as it is quite different to probably anything you've encountered before. But once you have the basics and downloaded a few models it is pretty easy. There literally millions of pre-made print files to do, free, paying, tips etc. From Chamber flags, to small models, to hooks, stands, ammo storage, you name it.