My reloading journey..

[jezzab]

I figured I would make one thread instead of 50.and ask questions here.

My goal is to reload .223 and 7mm-08 for hunting and farm duties but I really get a kick out of target s\hooting (longest to me is 200m so far, but I would like to amp that up a bit)

Yesterday I started my reloading journey with the Hornady Lock N Load Classic Reloading Kit. I started with the used 7mm-08 Whitetail brass I had shot and full resized it after I had cleaned it cleaned all my primer pockets (I admit it was a bit overboard polishing them with 0000 steel wool but they looked lovely). Watched a couple of YouTube videos and managed to not f**k it up based on it would fit into the SAAMI case checker I have (it wouldn't before).

Next I checked the case length and compared to the Trim Length from the Hornady book (being its Hornady brass). Interestingly while I checked the 11th Ed. ADI book it listed a trim length too, surprisingly they matched.

I busted out the new case trimmer (this Hornady mini "lathe" with a mouse wheel handle that s**ts you to tears after two cases. Im buying the drill version for sure) and proceeded to trim them down to the Trim Length. First one was a complete disaster and I ripped it back like a foreskin at a Jewish brit milah. Lesson learnt there.

After that they were all spot on mouse wheeling away, very happy.

I decided to setup my seating depth, a couple of YouTube videos later, I put in my first primer and using a stock cartridge as a base line pressed in my first projectile. Immediately I could see things werent right, its was.... balls deep.. would be the description I would give. I checked the COAL and oh yeah, it was bad.

I figured you had to break a few eggs to make an omelette and next would be better. So i repeated the process but slooowly worked up checking the COAL each time until it was perfect. Soooo happy... until I could see powder around the place. It was at that point I turned the case over and realised I hadnt actually put a primer in it. Another lesson learned there. Put the primer in, redid it all and made my first real cartridge! Was pretty excited at this stage and did my next one. Case in, projectile on, press, check COAL.. PERFECT!.... Then I had a moment, I was looking at the tricklet tray and realized I hadnt actually put any powerder in it...

At this point I knew I needed a system, some written down Order of Operations. wrote down the steps and I followed those and things worked out pretty well.
I made 5 of each from the starting load incrementing at 0.5 grain increments for 20 loads.

I then moved onto the .223. I was using old Winchester brass I had (cheap and chips. Dirty out of the box, totally see where they annealed it, looked nasty but shot ok)
Ran through the full resize and things were good. I decided some might need a double pump on the resizing die...yeah that made then stick out 0.5mm of the SAAMI case checker, so I didnt do that any more.

Cleaned the primer pockets perfectly and then went to insert the RUAG/RWS primers I had. First off I thought something was wrong (compared to the 7mm-08/308 primers) that just slipped in like butter. These wouldn't go in so I gave it a good crank on the universal RCBS primer tool and it went in but, it looked like the high pressure symptoms I have seen pics of. Flat, smeared and nasty. I did one more and called it quits, it scared me, it wasnt right.

I grabbed some new Hornady .223 brass I had (it was my backup) and tried a primer. In like Flynn. Perfect fit, firm but not stupid pressure and I could see the rounded edges of the primer.

Next was the powder and projectiles which seemed to go great. I only made 5 at the Starting load, What concerned me thought is the case fill (they call this headroom/space or something?), it was way up the top. I didnt hear any crunches or crispies when pushing the projectile in but if I shake it, I cant hear the powder. At that point I didnt want to do any more until I checked with the gurus.

Fast forward to today and I thought I would double check my work. I have my glorious completely loaded but empty round I could use as a datum/zero/tare. So I put it on the scales and zero it, then start putting my rounds on ... all over the shop (but not over max loads).

Im guessing I should just wipe off the marker of 39.0, 39,5, 40.0,40.5 and just write what im measuring? ive sorted them in order and its a great progression but I really wanted a few rounds on each set load.

Or do I just pull the bullets on the lot and start again?

[ruger 375]

hey mate good job on starting....send me a message and ill get in touch with you

cheers mate

[Oldbloke]

Can I suggest a simple procedure? Post it in front of you on the bench/wall

Clean if you wish
Check brass for faults or primer crimp.
Anneal if required
Deprime & resize
Clean primer pocket if required
Trim if required.
Deburr if required
Select correct primers, powder and bullets.
Check load data
Prime
Set up and adjust scale
Powder cases
Check with light/torch they all have powder at same level.
Seat bullet
Remove firing pin in bolt and check they chamber.

[Oldbloke]

The brass with tight primers most likely has a crimp. There are tools for this.

If it's only a few a sharp knife if used correctly will do it or toss them I guess.

If you are unsure dismantle them. But cases do vary in weight due to manufacturing tolerances. You won't be the first.

When I'm loading test rounds I use a texta and write the grains on the case then in a labled zip lock bag.
There are better ways but that's what I do.

[on_one_wheel]

"completely loaded but empty round I could use as a datum/zero/tare. So I put it on the scales and zero it, then start putting my rounds on ... all over the shop (but not over max loads)."

You'd be surprised how much cases of the same make can vary in weight.

[Oldbloke]

"completely loaded but empty round I could use as a datum/zero/tare. So I put it on the scales and zero it, then start putting my rounds on ... all over the shop (but not over max loads)."

You'd be surprised how much cases of the same make can vary in weight.

Yep, I weight a few some time back. IIRC up to 2 or 3 grains.

If I've missed anything on the list feel free to amend it gents.

[jezzab]

Can I suggest a simple procedure? Post it in front of you on the bench/wall

Clean if you wish
Check brass for faults or primer crimp.
Anneal if required
Deprime & resize
Clean primer pocket if required
Trim if required.
Deburr if required
Select correct primers, powder and bullets.
Check load data
Prime
Set up and adjust scale
Powder cases
Check with light/torch they all have powder at same level.
Seat bullet
Remove firing pin in bolt and check they chamber.

Exactly what I did but really nice to see it all written out and I WILL be doing this. Thank you

I admit I did test them in the SAAMI gauge after resizing vs chamber to try and weed out bad eggs early. Maybe some were ok but if they weren't 100% flush and slid in and out effortlessly, I put them aside. Only ones that were suss seemed to be the 223s that I double resized (two pulls) and a couple of random 223s

[jezzab]

The brass with tight primers most likely has a crimp. There are tools for this.

If it's only a few a sharp knife if used correctly will do it or toss them I guess.

If you are unsure dismantle them. But cases do vary in weight due to manufacturing tolerances. You won't be the first.

When I'm loading test rounds I use a texta and write the grains on the case then in a labled zip lock bag.
There are better ways but that's what I do.

That's what I did too, wrote on every one. Eg 39.0, 39.5, 40.0 etc. glad I'm on the right track

Difference in manufacturing.... Interesting. I spent so much time making sure or it was right. Sure the first couple were a bees dick under but not a whole grain over

[jezzab]

I assume if I pull a bullet I need to start from the beginning (resize, etc)?

[jezzab]

For what it's worth I was using a Hornady Auto Charge Pro and I checked today between my go to scales I always use for everything against the Hornady scales that came with the kit (heard they were s**t but they aren't too bad, they drift a bit and require constant re-zeroing imho) and the Auto Charge, all matched

[wanneroo]

Always great to see new folks starting out with reloading. There is great satisfaction in making your own ammo and being semi self sufficient.

Just some observations based off of what you said.

1. Remember you will always encounter various manufacturing differences with brass, bullets and primers. For instance, some manufacturers may have slightly thinner brass than other brands. Or European primers like RWS tend to be just slightly tighter than American made primers, hence a tighter fit. Often these manufacturing or quality differences will not matter and then sometimes they do.

2. When seating bullets and getting your overall length set on the seating die, back out the seating stem near all the way out, keeping working the seating stem down until the bullet is starting to seat. Then adjust the seating stem down a quarter or half turn, run the brass up into the seating die, remove, check overall length. Rinse, repeat. Keep doing this until the bullet is seated to your preferred length and then tighten the lock nut on the seating stem. Seat another bullet in another piece of brass to double check you are getting the overall length you want. It may take 5-10 times of doing this until you get it set at the length you want. In a nutshell start out with a long OAL and work your way down slowly until at the final OAL you want.

3. Do things in batches and one step at a time. New reloaders often try to do too much at one time and then you do things like forgetting to seat a primer. Whether you have a batch of 10, 100 or 1000, focus on just one step. For instance, if you have a 100 pieces of brass, resize all 100. Then trim all 100. Then seat primers in all 100. The only step I combine is my powder measure is mounted next to my press, so I drop powder in one case, look in it to make sure powder has dropped and then I immediately seat the bullet. Then when all hundred are done, I check them all in a case gauge. There are more steps you may or may not do or require such as primer pocket cleaning or case mouth deburring, but whatever it is, I do that step with all the brass in my batch all at one time. In a nutshell, allow the brain to focus and fully concentrate on one thing at a time.

4. No need to overwork brass beyond what you need to. If full length sizing, follow the directions of the die manufacturer to set the die for full length resizing and then do a full length handle pull to resize. No need to "double pump". Keep in mind all brass springs back slightly, whether fired in a gun or resized in a sizing die. That's why brass works so well for cartridge cases. When being fired the case expands slightly to seal the chamber and then when pressures drop the case shrinks slightly which facilitates it's removal from the chamber. Over time with reloaded rifle brass, as it gets resized and then fired in a gun, then resized again, then fired, eventually the case stretches out, the brass thins out, the case will fail. Resizing a piece of brass multiple times just wears it out quicker. If for some reason after you have resized, trimmed to length, chamfer and deburred the case mouth and if the brass will not fit a case gauge, then likely there is some fatal flaw with that piece of brass(case bulging or something) and discard it.

5. Also watch with your case gauge as if they get dirty or a piece of grit in them, that can mess everything up.

In the end have fun, keep asking questions and researching as you go through the process. Reloading is a lot of fun, glad I started doing it 12 years ago.

[Jorlcrin]

I figured I would make one thread instead of 50.and ask questions here.

My goal is to reload .223 and 7mm-08 for hunting and farm duties but I really get a kick out of target s\hooting (longest to me is 200m so far, but I would like to amp that up a bit)

Yesterday I started my reloading journey with the Hornady Lock N Load Classic Reloading Kit. I started with the used 7mm-08 Whitetail brass I had shot and full resized it after I had cleaned it cleaned all my primer pockets (I admit it was a bit overboard polishing them with 0000 steel wool but they looked lovely). Watched a couple of YouTube videos and managed to not f**k it up based on it would fit into the SAAMI case checker I have (it wouldn't before).

Next I checked the case length and compared to the Trim Length from the Hornady book (being its Hornady brass). Interestingly while I checked the 11th Ed. ADI book it listed a trim length too, surprisingly they matched.

I busted out the new case trimmer (this Hornady mini "lathe" with a mouse wheel handle that s**ts you to tears after two cases. Im buying the drill version for sure) and proceeded to trim them down to the Trim Length. First one was a complete disaster and I ripped it back like a foreskin at a Jewish brit milah. Lesson learnt there.

After that they were all spot on mouse wheeling away, very happy.

I decided to setup my seating depth, a couple of YouTube videos later, I put in my first primer and using a stock cartridge as a base line pressed in my first projectile. Immediately I could see things werent right, its was.... balls deep.. would be the description I would give. I checked the COAL and oh yeah, it was bad.

I figured you had to break a few eggs to make an omelette and next would be better. So i repeated the process but slooowly worked up checking the COAL each time until it was perfect. Soooo happy... until I could see powder around the place. It was at that point I turned the case over and realised I hadnt actually put a primer in it. Another lesson learned there. Put the primer in, redid it all and made my first real cartridge! Was pretty excited at this stage and did my next one. Case in, projectile on, press, check COAL.. PERFECT!.... Then I had a moment, I was looking at the tricklet tray and realized I hadnt actually put any powerder in it...

At this point I knew I needed a system, some written down Order of Operations. wrote down the steps and I followed those and things worked out pretty well.
I made 5 of each from the starting load incrementing at 0.5 grain increments for 20 loads.

I then moved onto the .223. I was using old Winchester brass I had (cheap and chips. Dirty out of the box, totally see where they annealed it, looked nasty but shot ok)
Ran through the full resize and things were good. I decided some might need a double pump on the resizing die...yeah that made then stick out 0.5mm of the SAAMI case checker, so I didnt do that any more.

Cleaned the primer pockets perfectly and then went to insert the RUAG/RWS primers I had. First off I thought something was wrong (compared to the 7mm-08/308 primers) that just slipped in like butter. These wouldn't go in so I gave it a good crank on the universal RCBS primer tool and it went in but, it looked like the high pressure symptoms I have seen pics of. Flat, smeared and nasty. I did one more and called it quits, it scared me, it wasnt right.

I grabbed some new Hornady .223 brass I had (it was my backup) and tried a primer. In like Flynn. Perfect fit, firm but not stupid pressure and I could see the rounded edges of the primer.

Next was the powder and projectiles which seemed to go great. I only made 5 at the Starting load, What concerned me thought is the case fill (they call this headroom/space or something?), it was way up the top. I didnt hear any crunches or crispies when pushing the projectile in but if I shake it, I cant hear the powder. At that point I didnt want to do any more until I checked with the gurus.

Fast forward to today and I thought I would double check my work. I have my glorious completely loaded but empty round I could use as a datum/zero/tare. So I put it on the scales and zero it, then start putting my rounds on ... all over the shop (but not over max loads).

Im guessing I should just wipe off the marker of 39.0, 39,5, 40.0,40.5 and just write what im measuring? ive sorted them in order and its a great progression but I really wanted a few rounds on each set load.

Or do I just pull the bullets on the lot and start again?

I also load .223 and 7-08 (as well as .243, .30-30 and .308) for mostly farm work.

- I printed up small cards with the reloading steps on it, and space to write my average result for each step in the batch.
Idea is to have a tick-box that allows me to suspend the reloading at any stage, and know what stage I'd reached previously when I get back to it.
Each card records the total number of times that brass has been reloaded.

- I keep my brass batched by brand and number of firings, and use a batch number that stays with them for the life of the cases.
My batch numbers have 4 parts to them - Rifle, Brand of Brass, Calibre, unique number.
So, one box of ammo for my CTR will be batched as CTR-A-223-4125. [ADI brass and I started all .223 brass at 4000]
My ammo for the Krico .243 is Krico-H-243-510.
I'm sure you get the idea.

- I wet tumble brass (Thumlers tumbler)

- I use cordless power tools for doing the primer pocket uniforming, as well as the inside flash-hole de-burring(only needed once).

- I have an RCBS Chargemaster powder dispenser; couldnt fault it for the 12 years I've had it.

- End of loading a batch, I log the weight of each loaded round with a small jewellers scale, and the highest, lowest, mean and mode weights go onto the reloading card.
[This has saved my arse a few times; picked up different projectiles mixed in, amongst other times.]
I keep a book with these weights in tally form, along with batch number and date. That way, it is easy to find what I should be expecting in my weight, from previous loadings of the same batch.

Once complete, I record everything in a Reloading log-book. Sinclair INternational used to make excellent log books, but they seem to have gone the way of the dodo.
Likely you could make up similar sheets on a spreadsheet.

One final thought:- Try to make up your Quality-Control checks so they overlap, where if you miss something on one QC, another will pick it up before the round gets loaded into the chamber.

Enjoy Reloading; tends to get addictive..

[Wapiti]

These are all great tips and you are doing everything great.

Couple of things - tight primer pockets may not be because of a factory crimp just as likely as they could be. Check for the tiny circumference pressed around the fired, still seated factory primer first, to indicate if a crimp is there. You can also see it on an unfired cartridge.
A lot of factory rounds coming from the US now in 223/5.56 have crimps. You don't see it much in 308 unless you buy cheap military spec ammo, I notice ADI has a 147gn FMJ load that is crimped lately.
It becomes immediately obvious forever onwards, once you have seen it.

You can go out and buy a primer pocket uniformer too that will remove it (just ensure you use it carefully and turn it squarely into the pocket to make sure you don't enlarge the pocket).
This tool is great to have in your kit and doesn't cost much.
Alternatively, you can carefully use a sharp drill bit, by hand, to chamfer the primer pocket to remove the crimp. Or, if you have a "countersink" in your workshop, that will do it probably easier and smoother. These are great to use on a slow speed in your cordless drill.

And, don't worry about weighing loaded cartridges, the cases will vary in weight a lot and make the final numbers all over the place.
As long as you check, and double-check, your powder weights before you funnel them into the primed cases, and you have checked the loading manual that the weight you use are correct for the powder you have chosen, you are good to go.

Next step, when the rest can be done in your sleep, is to check your rifles throat length and consider seating your projectiles out to be (starting point) - say, 20 thou off the rifling. It can make a startling difference to your firearm's performance in consistency and smaller groups. Which nobody can argue, makes the rifle more accurate and enjoyable, and humane too.
As you want to use your cartridges on the farm, you'd be advised (by me) not to have loaded cartridges with closer that 10 thou from the rifling for reliability and safety.

Edit: for the above, you'll need special gear (an adapter that sits on the projectile) to do this accurately and really, consistently. Just as you will to measure shoulder bump, a special adapter that sits on the shoulder of your brass, calibre-specific, and a good dial or electronic caliper that measures in imperial.
But that might be something that's unnecessary for the precision you're after and is a step way up from any factory loadings in consistency and accuracy potential.

[on_one_wheel]

Or.....
It can be as simple as this 48 second video


https://youtu.be/UeEl9wZyabc?si=azCDLr7oOAiYCduM

[Oldbloke]

Or.....
It can be as simple as this 48 second video


https://youtu.be/UeEl9wZyabc?si=azCDLr7oOAiYCduM

You just beat me on one wheel.

I think KISS is best when starting out. Too much unnecessary complexity sometimes just adds confusion.

[on_one_wheel]

Or.....
It can be as simple as this 48 second video


https://youtu.be/UeEl9wZyabc?si=azCDLr7oOAiYCduM

You just beat me on one wheel.

I think KISS is best when starting out. Too much unnecessary complexity sometimes just adds confusion.

I still haven't bothered "upgrading" from my classic lee loaders, it gives me great satisfaction making highly consistent loads on the cheap.

[Oldbloke]

Or.....
It can be as simple as this 48 second video


https://youtu.be/UeEl9wZyabc?si=azCDLr7oOAiYCduM

You just beat me on one wheel.

I think KISS is best when starting out. Too much unnecessary complexity sometimes just adds confusion.

I still haven't bothered "upgrading" from my classic lee loaders, it gives me great satisfaction making highly consistent loads on the cheap.

On one wheel, we already know your a tight arse, no need to advertise.

[on_one_wheel]

Tighter than a fishes asshole

[jezzab]

Thanks the replied and tips!

Finally had a chance to shoot the loads I had made (and I still have my face and appendages). I made:

7mm-08 139gr (reloaded brass)
5 x 39.0gr starting load
5 x 39.5gr
5 x 40.0gr
5 x 40.5gr

.233 55gr (new brass)
5 x 24.0gr starting load

I ended up only shoot 4 of the 5 .223 rounds as for some reason when I would put one of them in my case gauge if you didnt clock it right, it wouldnt fit. Not sure what to think about that one as everything seems ok?
These were the ones that made me the most nervous because I couldnt hear the powder in them when I shook them. There wasnt any "crunching" or anything when I loaded the bullets into them but I guess there just isnt a hell of a lot of room in the case?

The .223:

Winchester Factory 55gr: 3222fps
Mine @ 24gr:
3014fps
3003fps
3007fps
3024fps

I was happy with that and nothing went wrong haha and I know I have room to move now

The 7mm-08:
39.0gr:
- 2659fps
- 2603fps
- 2606fps
- xxx - Wouldnt chamber and I didnt want to force it. Tried later and they would, very strange
- xxx - as above

39.5gr:
- ? Need to check the chrono if its in there, guess I didnt write it down on the paper
- ?
- ?
- ?
- ?

40gr:
- 2664fps
- 2670fps
- 2685fps
- 2687fps
- Wouldnt chamber. Case gauge shows a very slight protrusion

40.5gr:
- 2706fps
- 2732fps
- 2713fps
- 2714fps
- 2722fps

I was shooting way to close at 100m but I really wanted to just see how things were going. But it was nice and accurate (for my skill level) and I have a good spot now and I can go out to 400m+ if I want without pissing anyone off.

One thing that I didnt do on the new .223 brass is chamfer it, apparently I should?
I've also read a lot of people just run it through the whole process as you would if you were using used brass?

Anyway, im pretty stoked and its inspired me to keep going. Very very cool
Jez

[Oldbloke]

100mtrs is fine


Any pics of targets?

[jezzab]

I'll take a pic of the target, it's just one. I'll be embarrassed but that's fine (and the $44 Bunnings folding bench I got this morning. *Insert Other Excuses Here*). Still getting used to the bigger calibers and recoil. I shoot 22LR at home daily plinking and im getting "ok" at 60m over the back of a chair/fence (and better on the bench). Just need to work out how the hell to upload pics without it not liking me. I had some primer pics as well I tried but I gave up

[Oldbloke]

I'll take a pic of the target, it's just one. I'll be embarrassed but that's fine (and the $44 Bunnings folding bench I got this morning. *Insert Other Excuses Here*). Still getting used to the bigger calibers and recoil. I shoot 22LR at home daily plinking and im getting "ok" at 60m over the back of a chair/fence (and better on the bench). Just need to work out how the hell to upload pics without it not liking me. I had some primer pics as well I tried but I gave up

You can't upload large pics.
You can shrink them by texting to yourself.

To upload:
Zip the image.
Go to advanced.
Hit upload attachment.
Choose file
Add file
Insert. (It will insert where your cursor is.)

[jezzab]

Fingers crossed (reduced with Photoshop)
EDIT: Ahh its a 750kB file limit

target annotated.jpg (714.3 KiB) Viewed 1794 times

[jezzab]

7mm-08 39.0gr Primer:

7mm-08 - 39.0gr Primer.jpg (479.63 KiB) Viewed 1792 times

7mm-08 40.5gr Primer:

7mm-08 - 40.5gr Primer.jpg (501.13 KiB) Viewed 1792 times

[jezzab]

I'll take a pic of the target, it's just one. I'll be embarrassed but that's fine (and the $44 Bunnings folding bench I got this morning. *Insert Other Excuses Here*). Still getting used to the bigger calibers and recoil. I shoot 22LR at home daily plinking and im getting "ok" at 60m over the back of a chair/fence (and better on the bench). Just need to work out how the hell to upload pics without it not liking me. I had some primer pics as well I tried but I gave up

You can't upload large pics.
You can shrink them by texting to yourself.

To upload:
Zip the image.
Go to advanced.
Hit upload attachment.
Choose file
Add file
Insert. (It will insert where your cursor is.)

Thanks!

[Oldbloke]

Primers look normal to me.

I bought one of the folding benches and bolt a sheet of ply to it. Traditional shape for bench.

[Oldbloke]

I always use a new target for each load. Then write the load on the target. I file them in a lever arch folder for latter reference.

The 223 looks good.
Suggest u check the case length of the tight ones.

[jezzab]

I always use a new target for each load. Then write the load on the target. I file them in a lever arch folder for latter reference.

The 223 looks good.
Suggest u check the case length of the tight ones.

That's a great idea, I'll do that next time re: new targets per load.
Ok I'll check the case length, that makes sense.

I was pretty nervous (told my cousin if I die he needs to head to my place and clear my browser history first thing [I'm joking]).

But realising where I'm at with powder, fps, this and that, I feel a lot better going forward and I'm going to fine tune more next time and gather more segregated data. TL;DR I made them and I didn't die haha

Thank you all for all the help so far. No doubt I'll have many more questions but thanks for taking the time to respond. Really appreciate it.

Not the best shot and K ow nothing about nother yet but I've had a grin fro ear to ear since. I'm hooked Baby steps

[jezzab]

I forgot to ask, so should I run new brass through like I would reloading fired brass?

[Oldbloke]

I forgot to ask, so should I run new brass through like I would reloading fired brass?

I do.
Anneal
FLS
Trim
Deburr.

YMMV