Total number of "clicks" (adjustment) ?

[Die Judicii]

For those that own multiple Leupold scopes,,
What is the total number of clicks from one extreme to the other ?
ie) to centre the reticle.

Does it vary from one model to another, or are they all the same (give or take a few clicks ?

[bladeracer]

For those that own multiple Leupold scopes,,
What is the total number of clicks from one extreme to the other ?
ie) to centre the reticle.

Does it vary from one model to another, or are they all the same (give or take a few clicks ?

I don't own any Leupolds. But you'll only get the full elevation travel if the windage turret is set close to centre. If you need a lot of windage adjustment to zero it you won't get the full elevation travel as the erector tube will be touching inside.

[Die Judicii]

Yeah thanks M8, I always centre the reticle b4 starting to zero a rifle. (windage & elevation) In a discussion i was having recently, mention was made that there is less “clicks” in total in European scopes compared to others. I was just curious to see whether that really was the case or not. All my Zeiss scopes are about the same, and have 115 clicks from one extreme to the other.

[deye243]

115 is only around 28 IPHY

[Damo300]

VX5HD 3-15x44.
From center
196 left.
203 right.
Elevation from a 100yd zero is 164 clicks up. It's fitted the the zero stop CDS so I'm not sure of the total travel in elevation.



I also have a VX3i 4.5-14x50 as well.
I'll check that when I get home, memory pending.. haha.

[bladeracer]

Yeah thanks M8, I always centre the reticle b4 starting to zero a rifle. (windage & elevation) In a discussion i was having recently, mention was made that there is less “clicks” in total in European scopes compared to others. I was just curious to see whether that really was the case or not. All my Zeiss scopes are about the same, and have 115 clicks from one extreme to the other.

I don't know that that would be true as a blanket statement, it really depends on the scope design. The higher the magnification the less adjustment you have generally, but some very high magnification scopes can have 160 minutes or more.

My Bushnells have 425 clicks or 106 minutes of elevation.

[Wapiti]

The scopes are different DJ.
For example, a 30mm tube has more elevation and windage clicks than a 25mm, because there is more internal room. Up again is a 34mm.

That was the whole idea of bigger tubes, getting more elevation and windage for those who shoot long range. Bigger tubes do not make a brighter image, only a heavier scope because the lenses are larger.
Leupold itself says this. Bigger tubes DO NOT make a brighter image.

But then, the construction also dictates how much movement the erector set inside has. A stronger, thicker tube and internal construction also makes a difference and between models this changes.

Just gently wind the scope all the way to one side, then go the other way and count all the clicks till the other side is reached.
The centre will of course be halving those clicks when coming back the other way.
Same goes for up/down.

[Die Judicii]

Just gently wind the scope all the way to one side, then go the other way and count all the clicks till the other side is reached.
The centre will of course be halving those clicks when coming back the other way.
Same goes for up/down.

Yes, that is what i’ve always done prior to zeroing. But yes, it seems that all differing scopes vary. Which answers my initial question. Thanks to all for your replies.

[bigrich]

For those that own multiple Leupold scopes,,
What is the total number of clicks from one extreme to the other ?
ie) to centre the reticle.

Does it vary from one model to another, or are they all the same (give or take a few clicks ?

Hey DJ , hope you’re doing well. The number of clicks, MOA adjustments vary from different models. Off the top of my head, 3-9 has 56 MOA total, 2-7 has 67, 1.5-5 has 120 MOA adjustments. that's with 25mm scope tubes .Go onto Leupold website and look in the specs chart for the various scope models. Cheers

[Die Judicii]

For those that own multiple Leupold scopes,,
What is the total number of clicks from one extreme to the other ?
ie) to centre the reticle.

Does it vary from one model to another, or are they all the same (give or take a few clicks ?

Hey DJ , hope you’re doing well. The number of clicks, MOA adjustments vary from different models. Off the top of my head, 3-9 has 56 MOA total, 2-7 has 67, 1.5-5 has 120 MOA adjustments. that's with 25mm scope tubes .Go onto Leupold website and look in the specs chart for the various scope models. Cheers

Hi Rich, Thanks for your reply.
Yes, I'll check that out.

[9.3x64]

The most important thing is to mount your scope correctly. I have purchased so many rifles in my life second hand that the scope has to be wound way off center to zero it properly. So in affect you have bugger all adjustment left. The very worst I have seen was on a Zastava M70 with a Khales 2-7x36 on it. The vertical adjustment was completly bound one way to get enough elevation. It was fixed with shims and eventually zeroed properly with the click adjustments in the center. You should not have to adjust your scope 20-30 clicks in any direction to zero it, if you do something is wrong.

[Wapiti]

9.3's experiences have inadvertently brought up a real issue.
Just to bring up a subject from another thread about stud type turn-in mounts with the two opposed rear windage screws.
These allow you to keep the scope windage adjustments virtually on-centre inside the scope tube.
So important for the security of the zero, especially in recoiling rifles.

A rifle is a heap of individually-made bits from different machines and even places put together hopefully in a straight line.
With the latest "cheaper is better" rifles nowadays, steps to keep everything straight is often out of whack, and anyone who's set up a barrel or action up in a 4-jaw chuck in a lathe with dial indicators on both ends, inside and out, will tell you that a few thou at one end is a big deal at the other end, let alone at 100yds or 4x more at 400.
That's why the term "blueprinting" was dreamed up to describe making a rifle to a straight line of bolt, action and bore, and take the stresses out.

The craze nowadays of (mostly cheap) rifles only having the option of chucking yet another wildly toleranced, drilled-off-centre picatinny rail on top, then another set of machined with out of tolerance clamp mounts on top that compound the tolerance issues, that cannot be adjusted, shows this up bigtime.

But there have been a few rifle brands made in the old designs, like Zastava and a few others, that have drilled the action mount holes off centre to the bore centre-lines. As well, threaded the barrel-action threads off-line.
So the craze for heavy, unnecessary 30mm tube scopes with more internal adjustment becomes even more necessary to get scopes zeroed on cockeyes action/mounts.
The adjustable rear twin-windage mounts align the scopes with the bore and still remain within centre of the windage.
Up-down is also important, but with the craze for shooting longer range, getting things straight has now been bastardised by 20, 30, 40 MOA ski-ramps for rails.
One thing not often said is, that you want a very nicely machined set of internals, made from nice hard quality metals to repeatedly wind them up and down to make this work over time, as well as hold zero still at the extreme end of the adjustments.
Groups open up wildly and people write it off as wind, the moon, Earths inconsistent rotation, the magnetic north changing or a plane going over or some other excuse but never consider the inconsistency of the springs and detents squashed together in cheap gear.

[morerams]

You need to hold the scope solidly and look through it and count the clicks of actual reticle movement, some scope knobs keep moving after the reticle has stopped and you want to be fairly well centered before you start.

[bladeracer]

You need to hold the scope solidly and look through it and count the clicks of actual reticle movement, some scope knobs keep moving after the reticle has stopped and you want to be fairly well centered before you start.

If you have reached the end of travel it won't keep clicking, it will stop. But, if the erector tube is touching the tube inside then it will keep clicking, that's why it's important to try to zero your windage close to centre of travel.