Bourt wrote:Don't forget there is "hard" and then there is "strong".
e.g. diamond is the "hardest" material on earth, but you can easily smash one with your boot on a hard floor.
Try to do the same thing with cube of steel and you'll just farkakt your ankle.
All relative to what you're doing with it.
Hilux2003 wrote:You should never 'dry fire' any firearm unless it has a "setting" (some airguns & competition Rimfire's) for this practice, unless there is something in the chamber to absorb some of the impact of the firing pin.
Both centrefire & rimfires - you risk fracturing the firing pin if it is too brittle (some are prone to this due to the manufacturing process).
If 'dry firing practicing' it's .22LR & a timed match you need to be on the ball to be competitive. Get some .22LR dummys, snap caps, whatever they are called, I've seen them about - ask at you local gun shop. For centrefire, I just full length the cases (old ones), seat a bullet & fill the primer hole with silicon (roof & gutter or whatever is on hand). This saves a lot of wear (& worry about breakages).
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Warrigul wrote:Hilux2003 wrote:You should never 'dry fire' any firearm unless it has a "setting" (some airguns & competition Rimfire's) for this practice, unless there is something in the chamber to absorb some of the impact of the firing pin.
Both centrefire & rimfires - you risk fracturing the firing pin if it is too brittle (some are prone to this due to the manufacturing process).
If 'dry firing practicing' it's .22LR & a timed match you need to be on the ball to be competitive. Get some .22LR dummys, snap caps, whatever they are called, I've seen them about - ask at you local gun shop. For centrefire, I just full length the cases (old ones), seat a bullet & fill the primer hole with silicon (roof & gutter or whatever is on hand). This saves a lot of wear (& worry about breakages).
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Look I agree totatlly that dry firing a .22 can be bad(depending on model, some are fine) but:
Dry firing a centerfire (after you have made 100% sure it is unloaded of course)is perfectly safe, though if you don't wish to do so it is your choice. It is one of those facts based on opinion that go around in circles and really only benefit snap cap manufacturers.
In actual fact it is not the primer that stops the firing pin in a centerfire (otherwise we would have ruptured primers left right and center) but the bolt shoulder itself, the same one it hits when we dry fire. If the pin were so brittle that a sudden stop was going to snap it off then we would be in trouble.
I have dry fired my center fires more than I have ever shot live rounds and have never had an issue. I also know many people who also do this and have never had an issue. My Omark is on its third barrel but still has the original firing pin and bolt(I change the springs regularly though).
However if you wish to be cautious then there is no harm in that and there is room in this world for more than one opinion.
Hilux2003 wrote:You should never 'dry fire' any firearm unless it has a "setting" (some airguns & competition Rimfire's) for this practice, unless there is something in the chamber to absorb some of the impact of the firing pin....
Get some .22LR dummys, snap caps, whatever they are called...
Chronos wrote:Bourt wrote:Don't forget there is "hard" and then there is "strong".
e.g. diamond is the "hardest" material on earth, but you can easily smash one with your boot on a hard floor.
Try to do the same thing with cube of steel and you'll just farkakt your ankle.
All relative to what you're doing with it.
Don't know what kind of diamonds you're buying. LOL
VICHunter wrote:Hilux2003 wrote:You should never 'dry fire' any firearm unless it has a "setting" (some airguns & competition Rimfire's) for this practice, unless there is something in the chamber to absorb some of the impact of the firing pin....
Get some .22LR dummys, snap caps, whatever they are called...
I just hand feed spent 22 cases and rotate them. Bit of a pain but you can get 4-5 shots out of 1 brass and save your rifle the pain of dry firing.
Bourt wrote:Chronos wrote:Bourt wrote:Don't forget there is "hard" and then there is "strong".
e.g. diamond is the "hardest" material on earth, but you can easily smash one with your boot on a hard floor.
Try to do the same thing with cube of steel and you'll just farkakt your ankle.
All relative to what you're doing with it.
Don't know what kind of diamonds you're buying. LOL
Just cheapies to entertain myself. That's my usual Friday night... Hanging out and stomping diamonds
Ok, "easily smash" might have been overselling it
What I meant to say is that despite it's hardness, it's easily cracked compared to an equal part of steel, despite the steel being softer.
My point being that "hard" and "strong" are relative terms depending on their intended use and how much abuse something can take.
VICHunter wrote:I just hand feed spent 22 cases and rotate them. Bit of a pain but you can get 4-5 shots out of 1 brass and save your rifle the pain of dry firing.