SHV wrote:fire formed case neck size is .33, very close to the spec you mentioned .328
I tried few times to seat the bullet, the case neck always around .335 so it couldn't chamber
if there is a kind of bullet sizing die can only change the heel (not the driving band part) diameter smaller or if I can find a crimp die for 310 cadet will be fine, where can I find those kind of thing?
cast chamber is not an option for me, for now...
I do cut a case from 1.08 to .98, after seating the bullet the case neck still around .335 but because the case is shorter now I can chamber it with a little push, I am thinking if can not find crimp die or bullet sizing die (just reduce the heel diameter) maybe cut the case is an option?
Okay, so it appears the issue is that the case neck is too fat after seating the bullet. I would think almost any .30-cal crimp die would bring the case mouth down below .335", but I don't think most of the common (cheap, readily available) dies would bring it down to .325" or less.
Yes, nose-sizing dies are available but I think most are custom ordered, I can't recall seeing any offered as standard stock anywhere, but they're not difficult to make. Anybody with a lathe can make them for you. You might have to make a "top punch" to suit the shape of the nose of your bullet if you're using a hard alloy and need to size them down a lot. If just want to see if that might fix the issue, put a bullet in a drill chuck and use a file to take a few thousandths off the heel, load it up and see if it works. Use the file's safe edge against the shoulder so you don't also push the heel further up the bullet.
Chamber casting is very easy, surprisingly easy. The casting alloy melts at around 60C, hot enough to burn you if you immerse yourself but far short of the boiling point of water. Push a patch or foam earplug into the chamber maybe a half-inch further than the length of a loaded cartridge - you want to get an impression of the start of the rifling but there's no need to form a mechanical bond between the alloy and the rifling grooves. Hold the barrel with the chamber upwards and simply pour the molten metal into the chamber until it's almost to the top - that's it. It'll set in a few seconds and it will contract so it should push out fairly easily with a rod from the muzzle - use a wooden dowel or length of aluminium or brass rod ($2.50 from Bunnings
https://www.bunnings.com.au/metal-mate-6-3mm-x-1m-aluminium-solid-rod_p1130541 ). Within a couple minutes, as it returns to room temperature it will expand back to give you a perfect impression of your chamber. You can keep it in your die box to refer to in the future. I use a John West tuna can, bent to form a spout and a gas torch, no special tools. Some rifles don't have clear access to the chamber so you might have to fabricate a funnel. If for some reason you can't get the cast out just heat the chamber and melt it and pour it back out (I have one rifle with a badly pitted chamber that was a real bear to get a cast out of). Northern Smelters do casting alloy. They also do bullet alloys if you want that as well.
https://www.northernsmelters.com.au/pewter-casting-alloysI don't think cutting the case that short is going to work great, though it may work sufficiently to allow you to get shooting. I would try to fix the primary issue of why the case is being expanded so far when seating the bullet. File the heel of a bullet down and see if it works. You might find it easier to turn the case necks of your brass down a few thousandths rather than modify all your bullets. Alternatively, a 5/16" (.3125") drill bit should ream the case mouths out to about .313" so that may be an option. An 8mm drill bit is nominally .315", but unless you use a lathe it's likely you'll drill slightly over-size - if you have plenty of brass you could try this also.