Barrel Contact, seeking information

[Mulder030]

Afternoon Gents and or ladies,

I was cleaning the old girl (Omark .308) the other day and noticed that my barrel is in contact with my stock, Right at the very end. Being naive when I first purchased the rifle I have neglected to look. but thought it wasn't previously touching. The only thing I can think that has changed since I have owned it was having a small amount of gunsmithing (tapping a thread and mounting a scope rail)

Could this be the result of over tightening the bolts holding the action into the stock?

Before I get the grinder out, I thought I would ask the question.
lol Im not a hack.

[bigfellascott]

Back off the action screws and centre the barrel in the channel and tighten them up again you'll probably have to do a slight adjustment to the scope as POI will have more than likely changed.

[Mulder030]

Back off the action screws and centre the barrel in the channel and tighten them up again you'll probably have to do a slight adjustment to the scope as POI will have more than likely changed.

Cheers, Will give it a go.
I don't have a torque screwdriver, will it be right to go by feel?

[bigfellascott]

Back off the action screws and centre the barrel in the channel and tighten them up again you'll probably have to do a slight adjustment to the scope as POI will have more than likely changed.

Cheers, Will give it a go.
I don't have a torque screwdriver, will it be right to go by feel?

Yeah mate it will be fine - I don't own one either and have managed to live without one for the last 40yrs.

[Wm.Traynor]

I would remove the stock to see if something is stuck under the action but was it like that before the d & t?
Have you had the sling rail off too?

[bladeracer]

Afternoon Gents and or ladies,

I was cleaning the old girl (Omark .308) the other day and noticed that my barrel is in contact with my stock, Right at the very end. Being naive when I first purchased the rifle I have neglected to look. but thought it wasn't previously touching. The only thing I can think that has changed since I have owned it was having a small amount of gunsmithing (tapping a thread and mounting a scope rail)

Could this be the result of over tightening the bolts holding the action into the stock?

Before I get the grinder out, I thought I would ask the question.
lol Im not a hack.

Do you know if the barrel is supposed to be floating?
Not unusual to have pressure right at the end of the forend if it's not a floated barrel.
Does it shoot okay?

[Mulder030]

I would remove the stock to see if something is stuck under the action but was it like that before the d & t?
Have you had the sling rail off too?

Do you know if the barrel is supposed to be floating?
Not unusual to have pressure right at the end of the forend if it's not a floated barrel.
Does it shoot okay?

Yeah I will have a look this weekend, take the stock off an inspect. To my knowledge and best guess I thought the barrel was originally free floating. As I bought the rifle of a fella who is right into F-class and goes to a lot of trouble to gain accuracy.

I have never touched the sling rain, but it was made clear to me upon purchase that it was knackered. The previous owner knocked up some steel plate thats mounted to the rail which sits on the rest that works alright for my needs.

[Gwion]

Is the action bedded with Devcon or similar? Rather than attack the stock, i would be inclined to re-bed the action.

Timber can move with changes in storage conditions and atmospheric fluctuations. I suggest you at least remove the metal work from the stock and give it a thorough coat or 3 of a good finish to reduce ingress and egress of moisture. If this hasn't been done for some time or if fresh timber has been exposed through stock work, then moisture may be getting in and the timber may be moving.

If you don't want to re-bed it and the BigFella's suggestion shows no improvement, get some 40 grit sand paper and wrap it around a dowel or other cylindrical object and carefully and evenly sand the contact back for even clearance of the barrel (mark around the barrel with pencil before disassembling). Once you are close, reduce grit size to 80, then 120, then 180 or 240. Make sure you apply a few good coats of finish to protect the exposed timber and stop moisture and movement.

[Wm.Traynor]

Don't forget, we love updates

[Oldbloke]

Seems to me more likely has mistakenly removed something that was acting as a spacer

[Gwion]

Seems to me more likely has mistakenly removed something that was acting as a spacer

Probably. I was thinking the same. That's why I say re-bed it.

What ever you do, do NOT "get the grinder out"!!!

[Mulder030]

So a little update on my findings (refer photos below) after all your responses. Thank you
I firstly removed the barrel and action as curiosity got the better of me. I have never taken the stock off so was a little unsure of what to expect.

So found out that the rifle hasn't been bedded, and i could see what I believe is the contact points of the barrel and stock.
There looks to be a large section taken out where the trigger mech is very close to the rear mounting screw hole. not sure what to think about that. Does that look hacked out? is it alright?

after re-assembling I have been able to achieve the floating barrel. I would like to have the action fully bedded. It shoots well as it is, but want to try and get the most out of the old girl. then I can only blame myself for the s**t shooting.

let me know your thoughts, I could be looking straight passed something and wouldn't know it.

[Wm.Traynor]

Towards the end of my time with Omarks, it was usual to move the rear take-down screw to about 1/2" in front of the trigger cutout. Pillars were installed, around both t-d bolts. Do you want to spend the money? Might depend on what you paid
Otherwise, you could bed it on Devcon, J-B Weld, fibreglass etc. Are you handy with carpenter's tools like gouges?
Important Question
Do you know how to test bedding? Reason for asking is that you could DIY. For instance, it is possible although unlikely, that the bedding might be OK, as it is. If you can test, you could save some trouble, however unlikely as pointed out.
Love a project

[Mulder030]

Towards the end of my time with Omarks, it was usual to move the rear take-down screw to about 1/2" in front of the trigger cutout. Pillars were installed, around both t-d bolts. Do you want to spend the money? Might depend on what you paid
Otherwise, you could bed it on Devcon, J-B Weld, fibreglass etc. Are you handy with carpenter's tools like gouges?
Important Question
Do you know how to test bedding? Reason for asking is that you could DIY. For instance, it is possible although unlikely, that the bedding might be OK, as it is. If you can test, you could save some trouble, however unlikely as pointed out.
Love a project

Me Handy with carpenter's tools..........nope.
Wouldn't know how to test the bedding either. (pretty much a green horn to all this)
I honestly wish I paid my attention in wood class. And I was be hesitant to try anything to invasive as I would royally screw it up if i tried. being my only target rifle I wouldn't want it to be out of action (pardon the pun) for too long as I am really enjoying going to the club.

The rifle cost me next to nothing and would invest the coin to further increase accuracy. It shoots well as is, no doubt it's me being a squid behind it causing the large groups. However it is my first ever rifle and no doubt won't ever sell it, just keep shooting and improving.

Any pointers Wm. Traynor?

[Gwion]

Looking at that inlet is giving me nightmares and making my OCBD twitchy (obsessive compulsive bedding disorder)!

If you lived near by i'd happily do the bedding for you because i have all the gear but it's a long swim to Tassy. Pillars wouldn't go astray, either.
Not all bedding jobs are equal, by the way.

Check this site out for more info on bedding: http://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase.html
Nathan's videos are very informative.

[Wm.Traynor]

Looking at that inlet is giving me nightmares and making my OCBD twitchy (obsessive compulsive bedding disorder)!

If you lived near by i'd happily do the bedding for you because i have all the gear but it's a long swim to Tassy. Pillars wouldn't go astray, either.
Not all bedding jobs are equal, by the way.

Check this site out for more info on bedding: http://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase.html
Nathan's videos are very informative.

Gwion has prompted me to check on your State of Residence and I see it's the same as mine. Any chance you're on the Sunshine Coast? If so, send me a pm and we'll chat.

[Mulder030]

Looking at that inlet is giving me nightmares and making my OCBD twitchy (obsessive compulsive bedding disorder)!

If you lived near by i'd happily do the bedding for you because i have all the gear but it's a long swim to Tassy. Pillars wouldn't go astray, either.
Not all bedding jobs are equal, by the way.

Check this site out for more info on bedding: http://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase.html
Nathan's videos are very informative.

Gwion has prompted me to check on your State of Residence and I see it's the same as mine. Any chance you're on the Sunshine Coast? If so, send me a pm and we'll chat.

Cheers guys,
pm sent Wm. Traynor.

[Mulder030]

So little update,

After taking on all of your advice, and as you might have seen i removed the barrel and action from the stock, inspected and then remounted. was interesting and i got the desired outcome (for now) of the barrel no longer touching the end of the stock.

Had the chance to get to the range yesterday to re-zero and have some fun.
Results are as below.

WHY IS THERE ALWAYS ONE FLYER!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?
So these were on the 100y with little wind.
I was using my own loads (Nosler 150gr BT, 43g ADI 2206H)
I was struggling to get consistency but these were my 2 best groups.
Both groups measure about an inch if you don't count the flyers, 2 inch if you do.

Anyway appreciate the help again guys.

[Wm.Traynor]

Could be bedding/scope, or both. To isolate the problem you would have to be methodical and investigate causes of inaccuracy, one by one.

[pomemax]

I have 2 omarks and both stocks look similar in the unmolested state as yours , only thing is the very front tip of your stock is missing there is normally a bolt under the tip your has been cut off when they fitted the tee slot under the tip looks like it was reshaped at the tip too .
Put your action back in the stock with the screws lose 1 turn and slide a paper under the barrel it should slide to about 1.5 to 2 inches before the square slot in stock easy as you may have to re position till you get it correct remove the paper and tighten the bolt at the rear first then the front as you tighten the front check with the paper, wipe out your stock channel with some polish or even steel wool very lightly just to clean up a bit .
what number is the flyer 1st or last makes a difference if its in the group its you

.

[Mulder030]

I have 2 omarks and both stocks look similar in the unmolested state as yours , only thing is the very front tip of your stock is missing there is normally a bolt under the tip your has been cut off when they fitted the tee slot under the tip looks like it was reshaped at the tip too .
Put your action back in the stock with the screws lose 1 turn and slide a paper under the barrel it should slide to about 1.5 to 2 inches before the square slot in stock easy as you may have to re position till you get it correct remove the paper and tighten the bolt at the rear first then the front as you tighten the front check with the paper, wipe out your stock channel with some polish or even steel wool very lightly just to clean up a bit .
what number is the flyer 1st or last makes a difference if its in the group its you

.

I would be interested in see some photos if you have some of what your explaining with the missing tip.
I think the flyer on the first target (tighter grouped one) was shot 3 or 4. honestly I no doubt pulled it.

[pomemax]

k

[pomemax]

not real good at adding pics

[Mulder030]

not real good at adding pics

Cheers mate, I am keen to ask if you reload your own bullets for the Omark? (.308)
If so, what combination works for you?

[pomemax]

not as of yet for the 308 I converted one to .223 and as of yet outback ammo seems ok even better than reloaded I am in the process of moving my reloading stuff from upstairs to a spot in the garage and setting up a Dillon 650 with very limited space

[Wm.Traynor]

Mulder030,
If you blame yourself for the fliers then IMO you need to practice your follow through.

[Wm.Traynor]

pomemax,
I could not for the life of me understand what the bolt between the fore end tip and the sling swivel was for.
Then my memory started working and I realised that it is for the Omark handguard