.243 pros and cons, What can it do and what can’t it do?

[Arcwolf]

I’m looking for as much information as possible, I’m looking at a .243 for general target and hunting purposes. My first rifle I may add.

I’m after information about possibilities and limitations, barrel types for a first rifle that can do both target and hunting applications moderately well eg. fluted vs heavy pros and cons.

I look forward to all your reply’s !!

[bladeracer]

I’m looking for as much information as possible, I’m looking at a .243 for general target and hunting purposes. My first rifle I may add.

I’m after information about possibilities and limitations, barrel types for a first rifle that can do both target and hunting applications moderately well eg. fluted vs heavy pros and cons.

I look forward to all your reply’s !!

I don't think there's much it can't do.
You can load subsonic with a 55gn bullet to replicate .22LR, or punch the same bullet at 4000fps.
And still be able to shoot 105gn bullets to take medium game.
I think virtually anything you feed it will be sub-MoA to 100m or more, except perhaps cast lead bullets.

If you're including "target" shooting in the equation then I think you're stuck with a decently heavy barrel, I don't think you'll have much fun shooting strings on paper or steel with a light barrel. You could go for a short barrel though which would still be reasonably light for climbing hills with - 16" or 18". If you want to shoot long-range, out to 1000m say, then you will want barrel length as well to maintain velocity - probably 26" or more.

Have you looked at the Ruger American Predator?
https://www.ruger.com/products/americanRiflePredator/specSheets/26916.html
You can also drop it into an MDT aluminium chassis if you wish.

[Arcwolf]

I’m looking for as much information as possible, I’m looking at a .243 for general target and hunting purposes. My first rifle I may add.

I’m after information about possibilities and limitations, barrel types for a first rifle that can do both target and hunting applications moderately well eg. fluted vs heavy pros and cons.

I look forward to all your reply’s !!

I don't think there's much it can't do.
You can load subsonic with a 55gn bullet to replicate .22LR, or punch the same bullet at 4000fps.
And still be able to shoot 105gn bullets to take medium game.
I think virtually anything you feed it will be sub-MoA to 100m or more, except perhaps cast lead bullets.

If you're including "target" shooting in the equation then I think you're stuck with a decently heavy barrel, I don't think you'll have much fun shooting strings on paper or steel with a light barrel. You could go for a short barrel though which would still be reasonably light for climbing hills with - 16" or 18". If you want to shoot long-range, out to 1000m say, then you will want barrel length as well to maintain velocity - probably 26" or more.

Have you looked at the Ruger American Predator?
https://www.ruger.com/products/americanRiflePredator/specSheets/26916.html
You can also drop it into an MDT aluminium chassis if you wish.

Maybe a short heavy barrel? I don’t plan on really shooting past the 600m mark, I haven’t checked it out mainly because I’ve had my heart set on a Tikka T3x!

[bladeracer]

Maybe a short heavy barrel? I don’t plan on really shooting past the 600m mark, I haven’t checked it out mainly because I’ve had my heart set on a Tikka T3x!

I personally would go with a short, heavy barrel.
Tikka I think is 10"-twist, which is going to restrict bullet choice a little.
Sierra's 95gn TMK requires 9", the 90gn Gamechanger should work though.
The Ruger is 9"-twist.

[Wombat]

A reasonable quality secondhand 22 would be the best first rifle to gain experience easily and cheaply. If you get a decently priced one and take care of it you can resell it without loosing any money.
I'm not saying dont buy a.243, just consider getting a 22 too.

[bladeracer]

A reasonable quality secondhand 22 would be the best first rifle to gain experience easily and cheaply. If you get a decently priced one and take care of it you can resell it without loosing any money.
I'm not saying dont buy a.243, just consider getting a 22 too.

Absolutely agreed, .22LR is a must to learn the intricacies of shooting well, and for putting thousands of rounds down range for very little money.

[Arcwolf]

A reasonable quality secondhand 22 would be the best first rifle to gain experience easily and cheaply. If you get a decently priced one and take care of it you can resell it without loosing any money.
I'm not saying dont buy a.243, just consider getting a 22 too.

I’ve done a bit of shooting, different calibers .22, .223 and .308’s also quite a lot of pistol shooting! I definitely agree with owning a .22 as it’s a staple caliber but I’m ready to start providing food for my family by ways of hunting and the minimum caliber for deer here in QLD is a .243 and that’s about as big of an animal I’ll be going for.

[Arcwolf]

I personally would go with a short, heavy barrel.
Tikka I think is 10"-twist, which is going to restrict bullet choice a little.
Sierra's 95gn TMK requires 9", the 90gn Gamechanger should work though.
The Ruger is 9"-twist.[/quote]

The Ruger seems good value for money but I guess further research is required. So many good options on paper but I’d like to be able to try them out which I understand isn’t always possible.

[SCJ429]

The pro for the 243 is it holds plenty of powder and can push heavy for caliber bullets at very respectable speeds. You can get quality brass and bullets for it and is very accurate.

The cons include it is a barrel burner, in short barrels will spit flames out of the muzzle and have a big muzzle blast . Not many come with a fast twist barrel so you have to shoot lighter pills. Not so good for longer range shooting. It is not delivering a big payload so you need to place you shots and reduce your range when hunting.

Otherwise it is a fun case and I have one.

[Daddybang]

Can't speak for the longer distance target shooting but as an all round hunting rifle my 243 model 70 win is my favorite. For a while it was the only rifle I owned and will be the last one I would ever part with. Feed it ppu 90gr and happily take scrubbers and brumbies or use lighter rounds for smaller game(all within its realistic limits of course).

[duncan61]

My best mate swore by his BRNO .243 that he purchased in southeastern Queensland in 1978 it still groups and can shoot targets to 600 yards.I got stuck with a HOWA 1500 that one of my crew did not go through with and it was cool as I had nothing in 6 mm.We are doing a local range soon and it will be interesting to see how.243 go

[duncan61]

I will be using 80gn hunting bullets till I run down on reloads then I shall make 90gn bergers and use 2213sc apparently 1:10 will stabilise 90gn pills

[JimTom]

Arguably the best “all rounder” there is mate. Don’t think you can go wrong.

[Blr243]

I have used it with small v max for delivering explosive performance on Roos cats and foxes I like the projectile to deliver all its energy to my target. I’m pretty big on not haveing any surplus extra lead flying around after the job has been done. It’s too dangerous for unseen stock in the near vicinity Then with more weight in a standard soft point it has sorted out fallow in se Qld boars and dingoes up the cape. Then with 95 grain Barnes or 105 grain speers I have used it on red deer and bull thar in New Zealand. On the rare occasions that I have to shoot feral horses I shoot them in the brain. It’s covers every situation that I get up to .... it shoots flat. It is not big enough to upset landholders that hate great big 308 s flying around their place. Recoil is not a problem. It fits in a short action. .. from a reloading point of view I do have to turn down the neck thickness occasionally If I could have met the man who invented it I probably would shout him a beer

[Blr243]

I have used it with small v max for delivering explosive performance on Roos cats and foxes I like the projectile to deliver all its energy to my target. I’m pretty big on not haveing any surplus extra lead flying around after the job has been done. It’s too dangerous for unseen stock in the near vicinity Then with more weight in a standard soft point it has sorted out fallow in se Qld boars and dingoes up the cape. Then with 95 grain Barnes or 105 grain speers I have used it on red deer and bull thar in New Zealand. On the rare occasions that I have to shoot feral horses I shoot them in the brain. It’s covers every situation that I get up to .... it shoots flat. It is not big enough to upset landholders that hate great big 308 s flying around their place. Recoil is not a problem. It fits in a short action. .. from a reloading point of view I do have to turn down the neck thickness occasionally If I could have met the man who invented it I probably would shout him a beer

[Blr243]

I have used it with small v max for delivering explosive performance on Roos cats and foxes I like the projectile to deliver all its energy to my target. I’m pretty big on not haveing any surplus extra lead flying around after the job has been done. It’s too dangerous for unseen stock in the near vicinity Then with more weight in a standard soft point it has sorted out fallow in se Qld boars and dingoes up the cape. Then with 95 grain Barnes or 105 grain speers I have used it on red deer and bull thar in New Zealand. On the rare occasions that I have to shoot feral horses I shoot them in the brain. It’s covers every situation that I get up to .... it shoots flat. It is not big enough to upset landholders that hate great big 308 s flying around their place. Recoil is not a problem. It fits in a short action. .. from a reloading point of view I do have to turn down the neck thickness occasionally If I could have met the man who invented it I probably would shout him a beer

[Blr243]

Can somebody please delete my repetitive posts

[JimTom]

Nah I enjoyed reading it three times mate.
I am no technical whiz but you should be able to delete yourself I think.

[Arcwolf]

Can somebody please delete my repetitive posts

I tried to do it for you but doesn’t seem to allow me, I appreciate reading it multiple times because it helped made me more confident in my choice of caliber

[Faedy]

Ive got Ruger American ith Boyyds stock. Shooting OSA ammo, it is a ripper outfit. I constantly nail roos at 350 - 400m. Pretty hard to do much shooting over that range where I am

[sungazer]

I have a Sako 85 in 243 need to check twist but it will shot the GK and pro hunter 105s no problem and also the Berger 90 grn targets as well as lighter bullets. go a long heavy barrel in a quality factory and you will cover all bases.

[straightshooter]

I’m looking for as much information as possible, I’m looking at a .243 for general target and hunting purposes. My first rifle I may add.

I’m after information about possibilities and limitations, barrel types for a first rifle that can do both target and hunting applications moderately well eg. fluted vs heavy pros and cons.

I look forward to all your reply’s !!

A 243 is a reasonable compromise caliber for all but the biggest game.
You will need to clarify your thoughts as to exactly what you perceive as hunting or for that matter target shooting and what the principal use of the rifle will be.
For hunting where the rifle must be carried for extensive periods then a heavy barrel is a pain, so a light to medium weight barrel is the way to go. 24 inch is about the right length, that's why so many factory rifles come with that length. Any less than 22 inch and the noise and muzzle flash becomes noticeably pronounced. Any longer than 24 inch sometimes becomes cumbersome to carry in scrub or mallee and feels wobblier to shoot offhand. Far more important is the fit of the stock to your physique.
For informal target shooting, well, any barrel will do.
For more organised target shooting, or trying to shoot groups that you can brag about, then a medium to heavy barrel is desirable and 26 inch would be preferable over the common 24 inch length.
Fluting the barrel mostly is a waste. It does about the same as 'go faster' stripes on performance cars.
Factory barrels, whether stainless or chrome moly, are made to a price so I wouldn't agonise over one or the other. Whether you get a "good" one to some extent depends on luck. You need more luck at the cheaper end of the market.
It is a different matter with custom barrels.
With the higher velocity capability of a 243, management of copper fouling can become an issue. Learning how to correctly clean and being able to recognise when you have completely eliminated the copper fouling from your particular barrel is something you will have to teach yourself and not rely on internet pundits. Otherwise your rifle will inevitably end up on used guns for somebody else to uncover the problem.

[Runnymede]

Great all rounder.....I use mine to take foxes and wild dogs as it has the legs to reach out. Took a Sambar stag on my property a few years back, thought I was taking a spiker but after dropping him on the spot turned out he was a full grown stag with malformed antlers. Of course bullet placement is everything but it can hit hard.

[Arcwolf]

I’m looking for as much information as possible, I’m looking at a .243 for general target and hunting purposes. My first rifle I may add.

I’m after information about possibilities and limitations, barrel types for a first rifle that can do both target and hunting applications moderately well eg. fluted vs heavy pros and cons.

I look forward to all your reply’s !!

A 243 is a reasonable compromise caliber for all but the biggest game.
You will need to clarify your thoughts as to exactly what you perceive as hunting or for that matter target shooting and what the principal use of the rifle will be.
For hunting where the rifle must be carried for extensive periods then a heavy barrel is a pain, so a light to medium weight barrel is the way to go. 24 inch is about the right length, that's why so many factory rifles come with that length. Any less than 22 inch and the noise and muzzle flash becomes noticeably pronounced. Any longer than 24 inch sometimes becomes cumbersome to carry in scrub or mallee and feels wobblier to shoot offhand. Far more important is the fit of the stock to your physique.
For informal target shooting, well, any barrel will do.
For more organised target shooting, or trying to shoot groups that you can brag about, then a medium to heavy barrel is desirable and 26 inch would be preferable over the common 24 inch length.
Fluting the barrel mostly is a waste. It does about the same as 'go faster' stripes on performance cars.
Factory barrels, whether stainless or chrome moly, are made to a price so I wouldn't agonise over one or the other. Whether you get a "good" one to some extent depends on luck. You need more luck at the cheaper end of the market.
It is a different matter with custom barrels.
With the higher velocity capability of a 243, management of copper fouling can become an issue. Learning how to correctly clean and being able to recognise when you have completely eliminated the copper fouling from your particular barrel is something you will have to teach yourself and not rely on internet pundits. Otherwise your rifle will inevitably end up on used guns for somebody else to uncover the problem.

Mainly target shooting until I can dial in my skills and go on hunting trips but eventually I will go hunting more then target shooting, target shooting is just basically to ensure that I can put the round exactly where it needs to be as often as possible! Thank you for such a detailed response, definitely food for thought

[Arcwolf]

Great all rounder.....I use mine to take foxes and wild dogs as it has the legs to reach out. Took a Sambar stag on my property a few years back, thought I was taking a spiker but after dropping him on the spot turned out he was a full grown stag with malformed antlers. Of course bullet placement is everything but it can hit hard.

This is pretty much what I want to do also!

[Bruiser64]

I have a Tikka .243 T3X Lite Stainless. I like the rifle and calibre a lot. As others have said, the 243 is very versatile. When I first bought it, I used the Buffalo River 70 grain hollow point ammo. I switched to 87 grain Vmaxs as the Buffalo River ammo used a match projectile which was accurate but inconsistent in its performance on game. My version of the Tikka is designed to be carried around in the field and to make a small number of shots at a time. The barrel heats up quickly if you shoot 4 or 5 or more shots in quick succession. The rifle is accurate and I like its versatility. It will kill any game l am likely to come across here in the far south of WA.

I can recommend the Tikka. I am happy with what my rifle does and how it does it. I have posted on a number of occasions that in my experience one rifle cant do it all. Whilst the 243 is a versatile calibre, my particular iteration of it is best suited as a walk around hunting rifle. If you want something to use on the range as well, you will need to decide what end of the compromise spectrum you want to be on and make your decision accordingly. My preference is to get the right tool for the job at hand. Highly effective rifles can be had for not a lot of money, so just buy several. Especially since you live in Queensland and it is easier to get additional firearms than it is here in WA. If you like the 243 you could get a Tikka in a Lite version and a Howa in a varmint version, which covers a range of options. For me though, l would get a Lite 243, and a varmint 223.

[Arcwolf]

I have a Sako 85 in 243 need to check twist but it will shot the GK and pro hunter 105s no problem and also the Berger 90 grn targets as well as lighter bullets. go a long heavy barrel in a quality factory and you will cover all bases.

I’ve been hearing that 90gn is the sweet spot

[Arcwolf]

Ive got Ruger American ith Boyyds stock. Shooting OSA ammo, it is a ripper outfit. I constantly nail roos at 350 - 400m. Pretty hard to do much shooting over that range where I am

What’s your aim point at that range, the heart?

[juano86]

I'm running 95gr berger VLD's out of a Howa Varmint 24" (1:10 twist) barreled action and GRS stock. Consistently sub-moa at 1000yrd. Shooting steel. .243 is a great caliber to start with. loads of components, wont knock you around on the bench and isnt too expensive.

[Col]

I have a Tikka .243 T3X Lite Stainless. I like the rifle and calibre a lot. As others have said, the 243 is very versatile. When I first bought it, I used the Buffalo River 70 grain hollow point ammo. I switched to 87 grain Vmaxs as the Buffalo River ammo used a match projectile which was accurate but inconsistent in its performance on game. My version of the Tikka is designed to be carried around in the field and to make a small number of shots at a time. The barrel heats up quickly if you shoot 4 or 5 or more shots in quick succession. The rifle is accurate and I like its versatility. It will kill any game l am likely to come across here in the far south of WA.

I can recommend the Tikka. I am happy with what my rifle does and how it does it. I have posted on a number of occasions that in my experience one rifle cant do it all. Whilst the 243 is a versatile calibre, my particular iteration of it is best suited as a walk around hunting rifle. If you want something to use on the range as well, you will need to decide what end of the compromise spectrum you want to be on and make your decision accordingly. My preference is to get the right tool for the job at hand. Highly effective rifles can be had for not a lot of money, so just buy several. Especially since you live in Queensland and it is easier to get additional firearms than it is here in WA. If you like the 243 you could get a Tikka in a Lite version and a Howa in a varmint version, which covers a range of options. For me though, l would get a Lite 243, and a varmint 223.

Ditto to the above. I have a T3 SS varmint barrel and it is my everything rifle. Loves 95gn SST and 80gn SPBT. It will hit hard everytime. The 80gn are my usual load for hunting and they are used on everything from roos, foxes to pigs. I will say 90% of my shooting is from the ute and it is not a carry around gun. I also have a Winchester Model 70 that is 30 yrs old and it is a great carry roundrifle, both in 243.

I have recently bought a Howa varmint barrel 223 and a T3X stainless superlite in 308, however my 243 is still the rifle with me all the time.
The 223 is a bit light especially if there is much wind and the 308 too big for roos. They dont realise they are dead for a while after you hit them. Using 135gn HP Buffalo River ammo it just goes straight through and they realise that it is "curtains". The 243 drops them on the spot or very close to where they were hit.
The Stainless makes cleaning a little easier and the heavy barrel takes a bit longer to heat up.

Reloading for the 243 is easy and components plentiful. Also if you buy a T3X in 243 and then a 308 later (Tikka) the magazines are interchangeable.