what problems with rebarreling Sako mod 85 22-250

[Member-Deleted]

My 22 - 250 is getting up there with rounds gone through it like 3200 documented rounds and a few undocumented ones as well i'm thinking when it goes it'll just go bad instantly i've read in a few places that it's a problem to break the seal on the original barrel and the breach could be damaged in the process the rifle still shoots 1/2'' @ 100yds but if it goes bad then i'll have to look at rebarreling it any thoughts would be appreciated

[SCJ429]

If you got over 3000 accurate rounds out of a 22/250 you have done very well.

I have rebarrelled a few Sako and Tikkas and they are very tight. Any good smith should be able to remove it for you.

[straightshooter]

Your barrel won't suddenly go bad unless there happens to also be some significant change in brass or in projectiles. Such as brass gradually going banana shaped or a bad batch of cases or slightly undersized projectiles or projectiles obdurating differently due to hardness variation.
Then there is also the possibility of some other unrelated fault in the rifle.
Although with increasing round count it is natural for accuracy to gradually decline until erosion in the throat reaches a point where that decline becomes significant.
It is surprising just how badly worn a barrel can be and still shoot acceptably.
When the time comes to rebarrel choose a competent, experienced and well equipped gunsmith.
I don't trust action wrenches that work through the lug raceways. Better one that clamps over the receiver and provides the maximum amount of support.

[Member-Deleted]

Thanks fellas Straightshooter i was thinking about doing it my self but now i've read your post about them being tight i'm not to sure i'd be doing the right thing doing it myself maybe wait and get a GS to do it instead just gotta rake up the $'s thanks again

[brett1868]

If the rifling is in good nick then why not get the chamber recut and set the barrel back? You might lose a few mm in length but it'll save a few $$ on a new barrel if it's only the throat that's gone.

[Member-Deleted]

Yeah brett1868 mate it's still in good nick and shooting 1/2'' but i'll have to take all that into consideration when it drops its bundle but how much would that likely cost compared to a rebarrel as they would have to remove the barrel also and thats where the cost comes into it when rebarreling if the saving is enough compared to rebarreling then that probably will be the way i'll go but if not then i'll rebarrel thanks mate for the info

[brett1868]

Yeah brett1868 mate it's still in good nick and shooting 1/2'' but i'll have to take all that into consideration when it drops its bundle but how much would that likely cost compared to a rebarrel as they would have to remove the barrel also and thats where the cost comes into it when rebarreling if the saving is enough compared to rebarreling then that probably will be the way i'll go but if not then i'll rebarrel thanks mate for the info

You'll save the cost of the barrel as even the new one will need to be chambered and head spaced. Unless you want to take the opportunity to get a slightly longer, heavier, lighter or different twist. Barrels are not too expensive in the big scheme of things. Keen to see what path you take as I have a Sako 85 in 22-250 that's getting up there in the round count as well.

[Member-Deleted]

Yeah mate i'll get onto a few sites and try and figure out how and possibley what it is likely to cost me and be ready it's 3200+ i'd say at a guess 3500-3600 but only 3200 documented so i haven't got a clue how long it's going to last cheers and thanks

[Apollo]

You would probably be better off getting a Gunsmith to evaluate the condition of the barrel. There maybe not enough good material for the barrel to be rechambered. Some Gunsmiths don't really like recutting a chamber in one that has a lot of firecrackering as that tends to be rather hard material and hard on their reamer. They will need to cut off at least the threaded section about 25mm or so perhaps even further.

You would be looking at a few hundred dollars for that but how much longer before the rest is worn too far so you may only get a few hundred more rounds of use. It will probably cost up to a thousand dollars for a custom barrel replacement depending on the brand and initial cost of the barrel blank. I would say that a new replacement factory barrel would be out of the question as unless Sako/Tikka have changed their methods they will not sell anyone just a new barrel and last I knew wanted the whole rifle sent back to the factory for any work like this.

I'd probably keep shooting it until the accuracy went off so much you aren't happy with it and save up in the meantime for a replacement barrel.

I have a couple of Tikka/Sako Barrels removed by my Gunsmith who has some fancy tools to fit over the barrel in a 100 tonne press and then plenty of protection on the receiver for his huge lever that fits over the outside. Even with all that took quite some effort to break the factory tension.

Maybe you might be able to find a near new barrel that someone has had removed but you'll still need a Gunsmith to at least check headspace once replaced.

[Member-Deleted]

Thanks Apollo crikey so many decissions i certainly will have to think long and hard on this after all when said and done i want a perfect as possible rifle
Thanks again

[marksman]

you really want to be getting a precision gunsmith to do the job, if you want a precision job
and I would recommend a new match barrel using a match reamer for the chamber that suits the projectile you want to use
it should cost no more than $1000 for an air gauged match barrel and the job done with a match reamer
it would also cost the same for a good enough barrel done with a factory spec reamer

bill Hambley-Clarke junior would have been the guy for the job if he was still doing it
he explains quite a lot about the sako's in his book centrefire rifle accuracy

you could just buy a tikka for the money
IMHO I would get a new barrel installed but thats me

[Member-Deleted]

Yeah i tell you what Marksman i'm bordering on just that mate too much thinking does my head in some times at my age. any hints on a name of a good match barrel
projectile well i'd like to stay with 55gr but have the option of 60gr not interested in any heavier if i was i'd trade the 22-250 in and buy a 243 i've got an ackley 26'' s/s barrel on a 30-06 action used it for years only 1 shot at a time though it's 1-10 twist but the 85 is my work rifle now so i'll look after her

[marksman]

I have had really good luck with shilen barrels but there are plenty of other brands that people prefer
I'm not sure of your exact contour need but for a 22-250 I wouldn't get anything under a #4 for a sporter or a #5 for a factory varmint contour
Brownells Australia have them for $514.11 plus post http://www.brownells.com.au/index.php?r ... t_id=61342
that is the cost for a stainless hand lapped match barrel that is air gauged http://www.shilen.com/barrelGrades.html
it does help to buy a barrel and have it sit there till you want to get it fitted
the fitting work should cost no more than $400, more likely cheaper but look for a gunsmith that can use a match reamer

I did a rechamber on the 22 dasher I had made up on a second hand comp barrel that was a 22br, cut an inch off each end and start again
the reason for cutting an inch off is to get rid of erosion and hopefully a fresh start
it worked out and shoots well but I will be buying a new barrel for it in the future when it starts to throw flyers or foul bad

I know I find it hard to let a good shooter go myself and prefer to rebarrel
lets just say I like my firearms

[bladeracer]

...or projectiles obdurating differently...

I hate when my bullets become obdurate!

[Apollo]

If I was in your shoes I'd shoot out the current barrel until it's no longer usable accuracy wise.

I'd consider a Maddco Barrel as they do list Sporter and Varmint Profiles for Sako/Tikka. There may be a fair wait time so plan ahead.

Getting an overseas barrel of the right dimensions might be a bit of a task.

Have a yarn with a Gunsmith if you can.

PS... Nothing wrong with Shilen, got a couple of them at least.

[Member-Deleted]

Yeah me to Marksman they keep me sane the contour is a standard i'll have to have a look but off hand it's a #5 or even #6 i think it's 19-20mm on the muzzle end but i'll check before ordering one i want s/s again might change the twist rate to 1-12 instead of 1-14 and stay with the 24'' length shame it can't be bought from Sako don't know what their caper is and gun smiths sheeeesh they're hard to find you don't know if your getting a good one or a bad one got a rebarrel done awhile back and it had a scratch in the chamber took heaps to remove it wasn't game to remove too much so it still leaves a mark on the empty brass but it doesn't stick it also had a burr in the crown took it to engineering workshop and removed it it shot ok and still does but not what you'd expect from a new rebarrel job though

[Member-Deleted]

Yes Apollo i think i'll look at a few before i decide mate shilen and maddco look to be used a fair bit

[marksman]

Yes Apollo i think i'll look at a few before i decide mate shilen and maddco look to be used a fair bit

the main thing to check is that the barrel is lapped and air gauged no matter what maker it is

[Die Judicii]

On the assumption that this is not a sentimental piece that you want to be able to breathe new life into,,,,,
Why not, now,,,,, while it's still shooting pretty good,,,,,, advertise it and sell it.
Being a Sako, they aren't hard to find a buyer,,,,,,,,,,, and what you get for it, put towards a brand new one.

Then you can have a night cap, and dream happy dreams without worrying.

All the talk thus far about $$$ for barrel blank ,,, $$$ for gunsmith,, etc etc,,,,,,, Surely (pardon the pun) biting the bullet and going new would be
the best option of the lot ?

[Member-Deleted]

Yes probably DJ but the stock has been shortened to fit me ( short arms) and a week after i bought the rifle the clear started to lift so i don't think i'd get what its worth shes been a work horse i could do some maintenence on her and bring her back to new i suppose all the steel work doesn't even have a mark on it it's like new
Sheeesh decissions

[Die Judicii]

Yes probably DJ but the stock has been shortened to fit me ( short arms) and a week after i bought the rifle the clear started to lift so i don't think i'd get what its worth

See your " Dealer " and once explained what your trying to achieve, advertise and sell your oldie with the new stock, and keep your own.
If the steel work on the oldie is in really good nick, that would go hand in hand with a new stock to make it REALLY presentable, and get you a GOOD price.

Just change the stock for the photo session only until you make the sale, then go ahead with the new purchase and final stock swap.

Any dealer seeing a new sale as a result would work with you.

[Member-Deleted]

Yeah DJ i might try something like that it would make the old barrel and breech look the part aswell

[marksman]

I just checked one of my #6 contours at 24" and its 21mm so pretty close
the #6 contour is a light weight target, definitely a varmint style shoot off a rest or prone barrel
the #5 contour is a light weight varmint and the standard varmint is a #7 contour

this is a shilen #7 varmint barrel, stainless but pot belly black painted

[Member-Deleted]

Nice looking unit mate stock is a humdinger what brand is it

[marksman]

its a richards microfit benchmark style
it took me two goes and about 5 full days to shape it

it does really dress up the old mauser 98 and this shoots 1 hole all day
it is a rifle to camp prone with but you can shoot animals at 300 very comfortably
I have stretched it out much further but decided that it was better to try and get closer
the longer shots are now targets

this was the last longer shot at 650

[Die Judicii]

Hey Marksman,,,,,,,,,,
That is one very classy stock Mate.

I like it,,,,,,,,,,, I like it a lot.