SCJ429 wrote:It has to come out. Ballistol Robosol has instructions where you can put a stopper in the muzzle and fill it up with solvent. I have never done it.
TassieTiger wrote:Okay - I’m going to get on this and hit it hard. I’ll try some additional solvents.
Thanks for the welcome MM.
SCJ429 wrote:Are you seeing copper carbonate, blue stuff, on your patches.?
marksman wrote:she is behaving pretty badly Tassie, that copper is really heavy
recently l put up a post about using tubbs final finish for a rifle that was copper fouling very badly
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=13142
it is IMHO a last resort but l could not see any movement in OAL so l think it polished it up without severe wear
l still haven't had time to check the test results, to busy hunting at the moment but it may be what you need to do as well
l would not do this to a new barrel but did it to a barrel that was having problems and it worked for me
TassieTiger wrote:The sauer? I must have 60 patches used. The rifle is not old and hadn’t shot more than 100 rounds.
wanneroo wrote:Sounds like you will do more damage over cleaning the rifle than getting all the fouling out.
Stix wrote::wtf:
Who's this... ...
Just who the hell is this...?...
Back from extinction...
Or just another ghost wandering the halls from van diemen's land...
How for art thouwh...
Look...i havent read anything here yet...so forgive me coming in saying potentially silly stuff after what is most likely very sound, & much better advice than this...
But my old 22-250 was never cleaned properly, & it took months to rid the copper from the old bore...
I found doing it on the range helped most...in short, shooting it to generate heat greatly increased the amount of copper i could remove with each soaking scrub...and in the end i did it with a nylon brush...
Shoot couple rounds...quickly patch out carbon...soak with copper solvent & agitate a lot with nylon brush, more solvent, more agitation...let sit for a minute...patch out with a dry patch, then soak onther patch or 2 & push em through, then repeat...then clean out solvent, dry, air dry, then shoot & repeat again.
I would finish by going home with a warm wet bore full of agitated solvent to continue at home...
By the time the copper was gone, so was the accuracy...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhzzAUaOzsk
Am88 wrote:I know what your saying, that was just an experience I have had, and I've been told the same things by by a couple of gunsmiths too, I have never had a problem however just doing what I do now.
I also have seen a gunsmith (allegedly) talk about people not knowing the difference between copper conditioning, and copper fouling, have read a few articles on it aswell.
I remember once and old gentlemen talking to me at a trap shoot, I was new to the game and I asked him what the easiest chemical is to get the was plastic out of the barrels and choke tubes, he looked and me funny and said "it's only a piece of steel, I use petrol" I never got the plastic fouling out of the barrel and chokes so easy, been using petrol for years. He's right, it's only a piece of steel.
GQshayne wrote:Well if you read my .17 thread, you will know that you are waaay short of the time taken to clean my M55. Days and days of cleaning, hundreds of patches and worn out brushes. But in the end, it was clean.
I would follow the cleaning method for when you suspect you have layering. If when using a specialist copper remover you get a clean patch, then switch back to a carbon remover. When the patches from the carbon remover come out clean, switch back to the copper solvent. I found doing this that I would immediately get more copper out. Layers of copper can be trapped under layers of carbon. In between solvents I gave Autosol a few goes too.