Anyone heard of Ridgeline for gun safes?

[jwai86]

I saw this gun safe at Horsley Park Gun Shop going for $495.

https://www.ridgelineclothing.co.nz/col ... 7-g-n-safe

All I've gathered so far is that Ridgeline is a New Zealand brand and the safe didn't look terribly different from the Spika and Lokaway safes of comparable size and capacity also on display.

[bladeracer]

I saw this gun safe at Horsley Park Gun Shop going for $495.

https://www.ridgelineclothing.co.nz/col ... 7-g-n-safe

All I've gathered so far is that Ridgeline is a New Zealand brand and the safe didn't look terribly different from the Spika and Lokaway safes of comparable size and capacity also on display.

If you order 50 safes from any of dozens of Chinese manufacturers you can have them branded "JWAI86 Gunsafe" if you want to.

These don't appear to be anything special.

[Lsfan]

I looked at all of these options while starting out. Generally the cheaper ones are built accordingly and provide lesser security. The weight often tells the story but having said that, a thick plate door with a single locking point may not perform as well as a thinner plate with multiple locking points.

From memory the ridgeline are budget type safes. From the link you have, the safe looks similar to the budget one I bought where they have the bars in multiple locations but in fact are hollow tube about 2" long operated by a flimsy plate within the door. Still effective but clearly cost cutting measures.
The lokaway ones have a system where the door hooks into the cabinet when it's closed. That seems ideal to me.

I suppose much of it depends on whether you just want to comply or whether you want the best security. Another factor is whether you want quality including interior linings to prevent damage. The final factor is likely to be your budget.

[Bugman]

Learnt my lesson a long time back. I researched and paid for high quality safes. There are few on the market I wouldn't store my weet-bix in.
You get what you pay for.

[jwai86]

Learnt my lesson a long time back. I researched and paid for high quality safes. There are few on the market I wouldn't store my weet-bix in.
You get what you pay for.

Can you share what happened?

[Bugman]

Basically had a cheap Chinese ( I think, from memory) made safe that had a dodgy lock. Called a locksmith in who took all but 5 minutes to pick the lock, his comment was that if it was a 6 pin locking mechanism it would be more difficult. The safe instructions did say it was a pick proof locking system. Mind you, this happened over 15+ years ago, but once bitten twice shy. The panelling was a bit on the thin side also. I now use only CMI safes but there are other good brands that are cheaper, now.

[Fionn]

Pick proof and cheap and you believed it?

Pick proof doesn't even apply to expensive

Pick proof applies to super expensive, even then it depends.

[Lsfan]

Basically had a cheap Chinese ( I think, from memory) made safe that had a dodgy lock. Called a locksmith in who took all but 5 minutes to pick the lock, his comment was that if it was a 6 pin locking mechanism it would be more difficult. The safe instructions did say it was a pick proof locking system. Mind you, this happened over 15+ years ago, but once bitten twice shy. The panelling was a bit on the thin side also. I now use only CMI safes but there are other good brands that are cheaper, now.

I have a cheap Chinese and a second hand cmi safe. Whilst the cmi is very heavy and uses thick plate, I am a little disappointed by a few things.
It has a central combination lock only rather than multi points. It has no Interior linings and has unfinished mdf loose shelves. One of the plates which supports the shelves is as crooked as f...
I know the safe is quite old and I got it really cheap on gumtree, but just surprised me how poor some of the finish is. This would be from a time when they were made here too as I think cmi may be made offshore now. By the looks of new ones online, they seem to be detailed much better and probably better suited to new more stringent measures.

[bladeracer]

Basically had a cheap Chinese ( I think, from memory) made safe that had a dodgy lock. Called a locksmith in who took all but 5 minutes to pick the lock, his comment was that if it was a 6 pin locking mechanism it would be more difficult. The safe instructions did say it was a pick proof locking system. Mind you, this happened over 15+ years ago, but once bitten twice shy. The panelling was a bit on the thin side also. I now use only CMI safes but there are other good brands that are cheaper, now.

Why do you believe CMI is any harder to get into?

[Bugman]

A couple of locksmiths told me. And I guess they ought to know......and at the time they appeared to be far better constructed than a lot of the cheaper versions around. Also they were made here in oz (at the time) and I support local manufacturing.

[Bugman]

Basically had a cheap Chinese ( I think, from memory) made safe that had a dodgy lock. Called a locksmith in who took all but 5 minutes to pick the lock, his comment was that if it was a 6 pin locking mechanism it would be more difficult. The safe instructions did say it was a pick proof locking system. Mind you, this happened over 15+ years ago, but once bitten twice shy. The panelling was a bit on the thin side also. I now use only CMI safes but there are other good brands that are cheaper, now.

I have a cheap Chinese and a second hand cmi safe. Whilst the cmi is very heavy and uses thick plate, I am a little disappointed by a few things.
It has a central combination lock only rather than multi points. It has no Interior linings and has unfinished mdf loose shelves. One of the plates which supports the shelves is as crooked as f...
I know the safe is quite old and I got it really cheap on gumtree, but just surprised me how poor some of the finish is. This would be from a time when they were made here too as I think cmi may be made offshore now. By the looks of new ones online, they seem to be detailed much better and probably better suited to new more stringent measures.

I am not a fan of combination locks myself. Also, the shelves in my CMI safes are steel and so i have not heard of MDF shelves in these safes, sound like a homemade job to me. Probably a lesson to be learnt here. Don't buy second hand safes without a thorough check up to see if it does suit your legal requirements. I will stick with CMI or similar quality safes.

[Lsfan]

Basically had a cheap Chinese ( I think, from memory) made safe that had a dodgy lock. Called a locksmith in who took all but 5 minutes to pick the lock, his comment was that if it was a 6 pin locking mechanism it would be more difficult. The safe instructions did say it was a pick proof locking system. Mind you, this happened over 15+ years ago, but once bitten twice shy. The panelling was a bit on the thin side also. I now use only CMI safes but there are other good brands that are cheaper, now.

I have a cheap Chinese and a second hand cmi safe. Whilst the cmi is very heavy and uses thick plate, I am a little disappointed by a few things.
It has a central combination lock only rather than multi points. It has no Interior linings and has unfinished mdf loose shelves. One of the plates which supports the shelves is as crooked as f...
I know the safe is quite old and I got it really cheap on gumtree, but just surprised me how poor some of the finish is. This would be from a time when they were made here too as I think cmi may be made offshore now. By the looks of new ones online, they seem to be detailed much better and probably better suited to new more stringent measures.

I am not a fan of combination locks myself. Also, the shelves in my CMI safes are steel and so i have not heard of MDF shelves in these safes, sound like a homemade job to me. Probably a lesson to be learnt here. Don't buy second hand safes without a thorough check up to see if it does suit your legal requirements. I will stick with CMI or similar quality safes.

Here's another cmi safe with "homemade" shelves.
https://ssaagunsales.com/listing/20373

Like this mine is quite old but does meet the requirements.

[Bugman]

Basically had a cheap Chinese ( I think, from memory) made safe that had a dodgy lock. Called a locksmith in who took all but 5 minutes to pick the lock, his comment was that if it was a 6 pin locking mechanism it would be more difficult. The safe instructions did say it was a pick proof locking system. Mind you, this happened over 15+ years ago, but once bitten twice shy. The panelling was a bit on the thin side also. I now use only CMI safes but there are other good brands that are cheaper, now.

I have a cheap Chinese and a second hand cmi safe. Whilst the cmi is very heavy and uses thick plate, I am a little disappointed by a few things.
It has a central combination lock only rather than multi points. It has no Interior linings and has unfinished mdf loose shelves. One of the plates which supports the shelves is as crooked as f...
I know the safe is quite old and I got it really cheap on gumtree, but just surprised me how poor some of the finish is. This would be from a time when they were made here too as I think cmi may be made offshore now. By the looks of new ones online, they seem to be detailed much better and probably better suited to new more stringent measures.

I am not a fan of combination locks myself. Also, the shelves in my CMI safes are steel and so i have not heard of MDF shelves in these safes, sound like a homemade job to me. Probably a lesson to be learnt here. Don't buy second hand safes without a thorough check up to see if it does suit your legal requirements. I will stick with CMI or similar quality safes.

Here's another cmi safe with "homemade" shelves.
https://ssaagunsales.com/listing/20373

Like this mine is quite old but does meet the requirements.

That's what counts in this day and age.

[mickb]

What it comes down to is none of them are real safes, by industry terminology. They are lockable boxes or security cabinets, which means usually 6mm or less steel in walls or door. The lightest ones, 1-3mm can be pried or forced very easily. The best 6mm safes will be a lot more pry proof. I would take a 3mm or 6mm CMI over a generic brand just as there is the chance more work is put into the dogbars( the bar or pieces on the inside of the door that hold it shut even if the hinges are sawn off) also the door rigidity, independance of the door bolts and the anti pry angles.

Some of the cheaper units you see tested on youtube a sharp smack can pop them, they are easier to flip( pry door), thin walled hollow door bolts that bend or flex etc. At the end of the day steel is steel and there still isnt a lot in any of these units. But quality 'might' give a crim more to think about . I heard Spika and Lokaway put decent work into what they are too. Anything 6mm or less are still only minutes work for a portable angle grinder of course... which is also why they dont have an insurable cash rating.

The next level up is usually 10mm steel, like pharmacy/drug safes have, pretty much safe from anything but power tools, or 10mm plate door with steel/concrete layered walls which is the majority of small business safes. These also have fire resistance from the concrete layers.

After that is TDR safes( Torch and drill resistant) , used by banks and jewellers where both the door slab and walls are a couple of inches thick and the materials in them get pretty sophisticated. ( anti drill aloxite ceramic nuggets imbedded in anti oxy acetylne aluminium layers etc) Very few people left alive who can crack them. Safe cracking died as a trade when CCTV and internet based response times got too good.

The 10mm and above are all real safes with an insurance cash rating. If you want real security find a second hand one of them. Thousands new, but if businesses are selling them off, you can get them for a couple hundred bucks in 5ft height. There are usually some going on gumtree or facebook martketplace too. Locksmiths and safe dealers will often have a couple second hand ones on the floor as well.

[Fionn]

Thousands new, but if businesses are selling them off, you can get them for a couple hundred bucks in 5ft height. There are usually some going on gumtree or facebook martketplace too. Locksmiths and safe dealers will often have a couple second hand ones on the floor as well.

The real cost with proper second hand safes is removal/transport/installation.

[mickb]

Thousands new, but if businesses are selling them off, you can get them for a couple hundred bucks in 5ft height. There are usually some going on gumtree or facebook martketplace too. Locksmiths and safe dealers will often have a couple second hand ones on the floor as well.

The real cost with proper second hand safes is removal/transport/installation.

Correct it can be, but can also end up cheap. Lock or safe company if bought from them can upload with their fork or crane truck, a few hundred bucks to place on a garage floor in the burbs. Safes under 1t can be rolled into positiion on broomsticks or steel pipe lain down. TDR safes from 2-3 t can be a pain yes.

I once bought an old 3000kg wormald 7000 in 2012, about the worlds highest security safe. This safe retailed for $27,000 in 1985(!) In the 70's and 80's Australia made the worlds best safes, being we had the most remote towns and safes needed to be able to resist attacks all weekend if necessary. I didnt want a safe like that. I originally was after a standard second hand 10mm safe weighing about 600lkg. But the lockmsith wanted it gone as he had a lot of old bank safes to clear. He had pulled it out of the local NAB branch after the keypad failed, told me how good the safe was and some history on it, that it took him two days just to drill it open. By the end of it I was like Homer Simpson " Hmmm.. must have a Wormald 7000 drool" .

Gave it to me for $750 with new combo locks. I had it removed to my yard ready to chuck in the garage. Well the truck with that weight sunk into the yard and bogged. So he drove the forklift off, picked the safe up, then bogged the forklift. So we used a local farmer with a tractor to pull both out. I also twisted my ankle in one of the trucks ruts, the neighbour was over complaining because the tractor went over part of her yard, and to cap it off some random dog( which belonged to no house I knew , never seen the mutt before) ran out of the cane paddock next to me house and bailed me up. Finally got dogs, forklifts, neighbours sorted and the safe placed.

Anyway, thats a 3000kg safe, a lot easier when its under a ton t

[Boundry Rider]

Thousands new, but if businesses are selling them off, you can get them for a couple hundred bucks in 5ft height. There are usually some going on gumtree or facebook martketplace too. Locksmiths and safe dealers will often have a couple second hand ones on the floor as well.

The real cost with proper second hand safes is removal/transport/installation.

Correct it can be, but can also end up cheap. Lock or safe company if bought from them can upload with their fork or crane truck, a few hundred bucks to place on a garage floor in the burbs. Safes under 1t can be rolled into positiion on broomsticks or steel pipe lain down. TDR safes from 2-3 t can be a pain yes.

I once bought an old 3000kg wormald 7000 in 2012, about the worlds highest security safe. This safe retailed for $27,000 in 1985(!) In the 70's and 80's Australia made the worlds best safes, being we had the most remote towns and safes needed to be able to resist attacks all weekend if necessary. I didnt want a safe like that. I originally was after a standard second hand 10mm safe weighing about 600lkg. But the lockmsith wanted it gone as he had a lot of old bank safes to clear. He had pulled it out of the local NAB branch after the keypad failed, told me how good the safe was and some history on it, that it took him two days just to drill it open. By the end of it I was like Homer Simpson " Hmmm.. must have a Wormald 7000 drool" .

Gave it to me for $750 with new combo locks. I had it removed to my yard ready to chuck in the garage. Well the truck with that weight sunk into the yard and bogged. So he drove the forklift off, picked the safe up, then bogged the forklift. So we used a local farmer with a tractor to pull both out. I also twisted my ankle in one of the trucks ruts, the neighbour was over complaining because the tractor went over part of her yard, and to cap it off some random dog( which belonged to no house I knew , never seen the mutt before) ran out of the cane paddock next to me house and bailed me up. Finally got dogs, forklifts, neighbours sorted and the safe placed.

Anyway, thats a 3000kg safe, a lot easier when its under a ton t

that story has kickstarted my day off well

[mickb]

yeah mate it was a saga. I was just back from a job in Africa doing logistics. Placing 1 x 6ft safe on 1x acre property in my hometown I thought should have been childs play but I was almost a broken man by the end of that day .

btw sorry to the OP for the thread drift.

[jwai86]

btw sorry to the OP for the thread drift.

As much as your story was amusing, I was going to say that I was after a safe that can be fitted inside a built-in wardrobe, not a huge one that weighs a few tonnes

[mickb]

Fair call. The ways to harden security for your safe particularly light ones is as you are doing, hiding it inside something. Bolt it through into the wall, Safe doors are easier to flip( pry ) when they are knocked over and you can stand over them and put full weight behind the pry bar. Have the side where the door crackss(aka not the hinges side) against a solid surface as flipping the door requires leverage around to that side. If a wall is in the way its harder to work. Corner of a room is best, even for the whole wardrobe. Or if its a walk in affair place it in the relevant corner to protect the pryable side. Chains or racks inside the safe are an optional second line of security. If the crim has opened the door he can attack the chains no prob and it might slow him down a bit. However if he has just cut an access hole to pull stuff out he will discover he cant just withdraw items and will need to recut.

[mickb]

Just for the record that bank safe and the TDR units I mentioned are still the same size as normal safes. 4.5ft, 5ft and 6ft height usually, base length and width around 75 x 80cm etc. Like a refrigerator.

[jwai86]

Just for the record that bank safe and the TDR units I mentioned are still the same size as normal safes. 4.5ft, 5ft and 6ft height usually, base length and width around 75 x 80cm etc. Like a refrigerator.

In contrast, I looked at safes that were around 150cm in height and 25-36cm in width.