20 MOA base or not?

[Coax71]

Hi all just looking for some advice on scope configuration on my new Tikka T3 in .338wm.

I am looking at having a play with some longer range shooting and ultimately like, once skills are improved to stretch its legs as far as I can with the right loads etc. I have purchased a Bushnell elite tactical ET6245Fg with G2 reticle in FFP and wondering what the best mount would be for my rig.The scope has a 70moa adjustment.

Should I go to a 20moa base and medium ring height or normal ring set up. As I read the 20moa base will get you out there and as I understand normal mounting perhaps would not? Also with 20moa on this scope is 100y sight in still possible?

New to the longer range stuff and any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

[Apollo]

You shouldn't have any trouble getting a 100 Yard Zero.

The scopes I use that have a 20 MOA Rail only have 60 MOA of elevation adjustment. Also have used a Nightforce that had only 40 MOA total adjustment on a 20 MOA Rail and still could get a 100 Yard Zero but from memory I don't think it was far from maximum adjustment, too long ago to remember it's exact settings.

Ring height is up to you as long as the scope has clearance. I don't use any cheek weld as such shooting longer ranges with high power scopes as it introduced too much heart beat / pulse for me so I use the highest possible rings available. Centre of Bore to centre of scope tube about 2 1/2" and that's not as high as some.

[Coax71]

Thank you Apollo, yer as I said pretty new to longer shooting stuff normally a hunter but it has held my interest for some time and always wanted to give it a go so thought sooner you start the sooner you start learning. Thanks mate

[Apollo]

As far as a "Zero Point" goes and as you will have read to your same post on "the other Forum", it depends on what you want to use your rifle for. Target use only set it for the minimum target range you are likely to use, then keep a written record of the adjustment from Zero you need for each target range you intend shooting.

This is why some scopes have "Zero Stop" locks so you can always go back to your zero setting and adjust from there.

If you are also hunting then it's going to be a compromise. As my friend John23 said "set Zero for maximum point blank range" ...if you don't understand that then get a copy of Nich Harvey's Reloading Manual and have a read or find the info on the Internet. Does make things harder to switch from Target at various ranges then back to Hunting.

With an accurate rifle used for longer distances both target and hunting I usually set my zero at 200 metres, both for load testing / target and hunting I might adjust a preset amount for my point blank range. The point blank range is different for each calibre I use and a great asset when long range varminting to ensure a kill at many different distances without adjusting anything on the scope.

[Coax71]

200 zero was where I was looking at. Thanks again I will definitely have a read of Harvey's book. I just didn't want to make a mistake with the scope set up from the get go. At least wanted that set up right or as best as I could get it. Ta

[Apollo]

If you want some good ballistic data, have a look at JBM Ballistics. Even works out Point Blank Ranges and more. Put in as accurate information as you can and it will work out very close to real life.

http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi

Lot's of other stuff on the site may be of interest.

I have the data sheets in my kit for each range so I can make quick adjustments.

[Coax71]

Any tips starting out with long range stuff? I am thinking ammo choice will be a big factor too. Lucky enough to have a long range shooting facility not far from me.

[Apollo]

Any tips starting out with long range stuff? I am thinking ammo choice will be a big factor too. Lucky enough to have a long range shooting facility not far from me.

Now it depends on what you call "Long Range", 1,000 metres or further, less than 1,000 metres or mid range 200 - 500 metres. But basically, practise at a reasonable range distance like 200-300 metres and sort out you accuracy.

I haven't shot at further than 500 metres so far, 800 metres is on the cards here at home for a bit of testing if I get time. I'm trying to keep consistant 5 shot groups to around 1 1/2" to 2" at 500m and that's hard enough. When it all goes belly up they turn into 3-4" groups so the story is "Wind Reading" and set out my wind flags more often, then learn to read them better.....Practise, practise and even more.

Ammo, the best you can make yourself with the best gear available. Factory ammo, I'd say not a chance of being accurate but, I'm not into the calibre you have, nor interested in trying. Bites way too much for me. A good friend who shoots 1,000 yard competition uses a 300WM but it weighs 47lbs so it mellows it down a tad.

Keep an eye on your local range for those that shoot really well at longer ranges and ask a few questions, maybe collect some on hand tips.

[sha]

Something from another topic for you (How much adjustment / range with a 1" scope tube?)

Something like a 168gr HPBT out of a .308 if zerod at 100m would drop something like 26moa at 800 y

.308 and 338wm trajectory is pretty similar if I remember right, so there's 800yards with 26MOA adjustment.

If you've got 70 you'll only get further of course.

Hope that helps.