DIY Reloading tools

[Oldbloke]

This is an overall explanation about reloading.


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Handloading

[Oldbloke]

More reloading data here

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/kdopwcxcqcimrud/h16TGLOjsb

[bigpete]

Bigpete uses these to pull bullets. Lol

Screenshot_20210811-144006_DuckDuckGo.jpg

I actually use these for pulling bullets. just put the shell holder in the press with no die put round in press and raise ram grip bullet with wire stripper part and lower ram. after a bit of practice you can do it with a couple of tiny nicks in the bullet ...

You get it

[Oldbloke]

I needed to print these out today. Made them up some time ago in MS Word. I just thought Id upload these. Might help someone. I've been using them a few years now. They are credit card sized and print on A4.

Ammo Label.pdf

(86.33 KiB) Downloaded 605 times

Case Prep Label.pdf

(185.54 KiB) Downloaded 635 times

[bluehorse]

I was interested to read these posts . I still have super simplex and I prefer using it to modern full length dies . The full lenth squeeze in vice type or { belt with hammer } still is verygood . but removal tool has been replaced often .
If u have a lathe or good drill press to drill a block of steel to use to place resizing die in or on safes damaging cases sometimes .
I wrote a post on my electronic scales that I threw to the sh---ouse because I ggot intermittent bad readings ,.
I find full length resizing dies hard on cases even though well lubricated .
And thatstyle of dye is hard on 22 hornet cases inserting projectile into case . It often catches on the side of case and very hard to feel it happen .
flat bottomed projectiles have no lead into case and deburring case helps a little but hard notto over deburr too .
so I use supersimplex to fit proctile into case . .Less snafus .lol
I looked at old blokes reloading press and I think a good design . The underneath barrel can be fabricated easily and screws added with little nylon pads under to take all radial play out if so desired .
I build much of my own tooling too . Ihave a couple of lathes and a mill machine but even so nothing is ever straightforward until it is made and perfected .
If you are a novice on lathes or mills dont rush out spending big dollars as the cost can never be recovered . If u buy a lathe buy it as an indulgence and dont count the costs or u will be dissappointed . There is so much readymade available at prices that dont break the bank
In fact 50 years back much that I bought is somewhere close tosome of todays products if u search around ..
Ihave made a jig for drilling bridge mounts and if anyone wants to email me for basic pattern Ican give , Is just a jig made from flat mild steel and welded with spots to alleviate distortion . It is impossible to get 1 peice bridges at a reasonable price . but redrilling is an option if u want to reposition it .
also I have come across poorly drilled receivers so redrilling a bridge to suit is an option but needs a good jig because littledrills bend slightly .
I think the home made measures work ok too and there is the option of weighing each load if u have scales too but many oldtimers used acut off case only soldered to a peice of fencing wire . I had mates who reloaded only with acut off case somebody else checkweighed for them .
The target that u shootdoes not calculate costs . hahhahha . always bear that in mind if you are price concious .
Also resizing cases chucked away at the range can work if u have dies to suit . Is trial and error .
For compressed loads making your own dropper tube does work . but pour powder slowly rather than hurl it in a hurry .
There is nothing inferior about tools that u can fabricate yourself however some people getcarried away with their ability or inability . and practise makes perfect so dont let1 snafu discourage you . No man who made anything never made a mistake . That is the process of invention trial and error .
Copying is a form of flattering the origonal peice . I looked at my howa 1500 beside a Parker Hale mauser action and beside the model 70 winny . All so similar Ithink .
For those interested 6 48 thread and 8 40 threads are neither UNF orUNC but are American standard that was made obselete around 1940 . I found this searching around the internet . It seems manufacturers retained these threads as a captive market to sell their spare parts ?????.
Personally I cannot see a problem with 4 mm metric allen headed gr 12 screws and these are readily available and a spiral tap i tried eats 4140 for breakfast .unlike straight flutes . I will be interested to try on a receiver . Straight fluted 4 mm taps struggle with these .
If uthink my posts are boring send message and I will hold back on some .

[Oldbloke]

Lee Scale Mods/improvements

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16190

[Oldbloke]

A few down loadable manufacturers reloading guides here:

https://www.xxl-reloading.com/Manuals/

[JohnV]

I also like the adjustable powder scoops nice work . I had a few pieces of home made loading gear but most of it has gone over the years . I went through a bad time once and had to sell everything and the stuff all went then . All I have left is the Lyman FLS die that I converted to make my first body die in 1967 , I could not part with that it has sentimental value . Now think about that , body dies never existed back in 1967 but I was using them back then and I also showed the Army what I was doing . I made it with a hack saw and a hand drill so it was a bit rough but have since cleaned it up on a lathe . It was the basis of my partial neck sizing , skim neck turning ideas and reduced work hardening techniques by separating the sizing jobs and creating a small second centering shoulder .
I did lots of experimenting back then to find easier ways to reload , increase accuracy in factory chambers and extend case life.
I will take a photo of it tomorrow if I can find it that is . It could well be the first body die ever made . I found it and have given it a good brush up on the wire wheel first after removing the grease . Not bad condition for approx 54 years old .

[Oldbloke]

Poor mans bump guage.

A cut off case unbelievable.



https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/20 ... -acp-case/

[mickb]

amazing read, wish I had the trade skills of some of you fellas. My reloading setup is about a rudimentary as anything store bought. A lee handpress and a few accessories and all fits in one of those make-up Avon fold out boxes.

[Oldbloke]

Case "kicker" (ejector) for reloading press.
Fuc, there are some smart pricks out there.

I'll look and see if I can make that happen on my simplex tomorrow.



https://youtu.be/trw2nENRX1Y?si=FgR8i5mW3N-MjIpo

[deye243]

Case "kicker" (ejector) for reloading press.
Fuc, there are some smart pricks out there.

I'll look and see if I can make that happen on my simplex tomorrow.



https://youtu.be/trw2nENRX1Y?si=FgR8i5mW3N-MjIpo

Yes ingenius and cheap

[Oldbloke]

Another version. Lol

https://youtu.be/AULEgr5KVk0?si=SRTbF_4CNp5CWDYy

[Jorlcrin]

My latest foray in the DIY Reloading Tools..

I've eyed off the powered Case-Prep stations for some years; get a bit tired of using an assortment of Cordless drivers to do the same job.
I have nearly all my case-prep tools fitted to Hex drives(BRT sell them - great pieces of kit).
But I'd prefer a station where I'm only needing to hold the case in position, rather than the case and the tool at the same time.

The past 5 years, I've been messing around with a 3D printer, and last year, came up with an adapter design to make use of a number of "Pololu - 37D" 12vDC Gearmotors I have on hand here.
Not long before I finished the design, the damned 3D printer took a dive, and it's taken many months for me to man up and fix the damn thing.

Anyway; now that I have the printer resolved(Surprisingly, with NO axe-holes through the front panel!), I have been working through a back-log of projects that I wanted to print to test them in the real world.
In the list, was this adapter(Green part in the pic).
Printed in ASA(evolution of ABS), this plastic should be plenty strong enough for the job.

All my adapter does, is to adapt from a 6mm 'D' shaft hub, to a 1/4" hex socket.
But I couldnt find anyone selling something similar; adapt from a 6mm shaft to (preferably) a 1/4" QD hex socket.
So it became simpler to design my own..
The Robot/Electronics sites have the hubs to fit the 6mm D-shafts of these motors, as well as the gearmotors themselves.
This one is a 100:1 reduction on the gearbox, which gives me a 100rpm No-Load speed.
There is a 131:1 and a 150:1 version available of the same gearmotor; giving around 67-75rpm.

There are six 3x25mm bolts that hold the green adapter onto the hub.
The hub has two grub screws to lock the hub onto the shaft.
There is also a 3x25mm crossbolt going through to hold the QD hex socket into the green adapter.
I used a Milwaukee QD hex socket, but any of them should fit.

I plan to mount this up in a box, and have the shaft coming out the top.
Next on the design, will be a motor mount that allows for a height-adjustable vertical mount.
[The blue factory metal one is a bit limiting in placement.]
Being a QD hex drive changing out the various bits is quick, though I am tempted to make up a dual one.

I've included a heap of the other bits and pieces to show it off a bit.

I have a good mate who's just delving into the deep, dark world of reloading, and I thought I might make him up one of these to help him out.

I've previously printed things like individual caps for the RCBS powder dispenser(one for each powder type I use), as well as wall-brackets for hanging the RCBS priming tools.
There are a few other DIY tools in the pipeline, but this is the latest..

[Oldbloke]

Very nice.

[Jackaroo]

I needed to print these out today. Made them up some time ago in MS Word. I just thought Id upload these. Might help someone. I've been using them a few years now. They are credit card sized and print on A4.

Ammo Label.pdf

Case Prep Label.pdf

Good stuff, thanks

[Oldbloke]

Finding the lands.

I've tried 3-4 methods.
This how I now find the lands. I've found just removing the firing pin works ok. Best method IMO

Then give the bullet a 0.5mm jump. (0.020")

https://youtu.be/tYZu7RG28ow?si=HtLYd41YkZkA53pG

[Oldbloke]

Lee Classic loader data.

Link is at the top of that page.

http://leeloaderdata.com/

[Oldbloke]

I'll try and explained how to find the lands.

Remove firing pin because when closing it may change the restriction upon closing, the bolt.
Bolt should now drop closed, just by gravity, no friction.
Take a sized case, no primer.
Check when it's in the chamber that bolt drops freely, gravityonly, no restriction.
Seat a bullet into the case, but too long.
Chamber it, it will now not close. Don't force it.
Seat the bullet in further, about 0.005" or less.
Try again in the chamber. If it won't chamber, seat the pullet in another 0.005". Or less.
Try it again. Don't force it.
Repeat until bolt closes with no resistance or just a tiny bit of resistance.

You now have COAL touching lands. Take a measurement and write it down. You can retain the case as a "standard" if you wish. Label it including bullet brand, type, weight etc.

Now load up ammo BUT seat bullet about 0.5mm (0.020") deeper.
This gives a 0.5mm jump to lands. A good general spot to start. Most shoot well at 0.5mm.

If you later buy a press you can set your FLS Die in the same way.

I'm assuming you have a set of vernier?

Flyonline,
If you want help suggest you start a new reread.

[Oldbloke]

Lots of reloading info here:

https://gundigest.com/tags/reloading-how-to

[Oldbloke]

These videos look very good.

https://gundigest.com/more/how-to/gun-d ... oading/amp

[Oldbloke]

Reminded about this thread about improvements to Lee Scales.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16190&p=279569#p279569

So, thought I'd add a link.

[Oldbloke]

Sooo been loading cast for yonks but just on off occassional thing.

Loaded a few test rounds the other day and needed to flare the neck. Don't have one and got away with working the deburring tool a bit to create a chamfer in the neck. (223)

The dies are abt $50 and since I don't do a lot was thinking what can a DIY. A new die would never pay for its self.

First thought was buy a 7/8"-14 UNF bolt and have the SIL machine a point on it as he has an old lathe.

Well, I don't think that's going to happen.

Anyway to cut the story short had a rethink.

Found about 4" of 1/2" all thread, bit of grinding and 400 wet and dry in the drill I ended up with this. (See pic)

Centred it in the press, it works fine.
Just slip a case in the holder, and raise the ram and give it a gentle bump. So, a bit fineness required.

Down side, normal flare die has a "stop".

Back in business.

20250102_165542.jpg (584.81 KiB) Viewed 3011 times

[Wm.Traynor]

Looks like a very neat job, OB

[Oldbloke]

Yes, about as basic/old school as you can get. If it needs it, later I'll grind a tad more to make the angle a bit shallower/pointy.

Got away without one for years for the 30.06. But discovered pretty quickly I need one for the 223.

I wonder what they did 100 years ago? I'm guessing a punch.

[Oldbloke]

Another powder trickler. Found it elsewhere. This is my version.

This is a 9.3x74R case with the primer removed and drilled out the flash hole to 2mm. The cut off 223 case is just used as a cork, primer intact. Any small container will do though.

If you use it like a salt shaker just 1 or 2 granules of AR2208 come out at a time. I guess other powders will vary.

IMG_20250411_155045.jpg (158.46 KiB) Viewed 792 times