Question:- How Durable is Cerakote??

[Jorlcrin]

Topic came up in conversation recently, and I realised I have no clue.

So, does anyone have any first-hand experience with how durable Cerakote is?
I'm talking factory/professionally applied Cerakote, as comes on many new rifles these days.

In the past, due to the less-than-kind treatment of our work rifles, I've opted to buy Stainless/Synthetic where possible.
I'm not interested in how sexy/pretty a blued rifle is; I want the durability that stainless/synthetic brings(chance of getting wet etc..).

Note; I'm NOT saying everyone should buy stainless, just that it works for me.

However, I note that many of the new rifles available today, are Cerakoted, and it made me wonder how durable it is?
It's one of the things that put me off the Lithgow rifles when looking at them a few years back, and I settled on the stainless T3x CTR, and have no regrets.
But given how many manufacturers have ditched Stainless in favour of Cerakoted offerings in recent past, I'm thinking I need to come up to speed on it.

Any experiences with Cerakote would be appreciated.

[on_one_wheel]

I have a remington 700 that has had Cerakote professionally applied about 15 years ago to make it suitable as an all weather rifle.

It has has fired around 1000 rounds since and shows signs of wear in the expect places, last inch of the barrel is getting thin, bolt handle is looking thin and a tiny chip or three from hitting the edge of car window glass. Moving parts within the bolt that interfere with each other have worn off.

It definitely serves it purpose in making the exterior rust proof, even those thin spots that appear to be transparent haven't had issues.
I guess it's fair to say it will wear away at the same rate that a good bluing job does perhaps slightly more durable.

[mchughcb]

I've got drillings and shotgun cerakoted. Doesn't rust but if you drag across barbed wire you will cut through it.

[straightshooter]

Just remember it is simply some kind of 2 pack or epoxy based coating with the addition of solids.
Don't expect miracles.

[Lorgar]

But given how many manufacturers have ditched Stainless in favour of Cerakoted offerings in recent past, I'm thinking I need to come up to speed on it.

Not knocking Cerakote here, but I think you'll find that's for 2 reasons other than durability.

1) Marketing, the Tacticool crowds love it; and
2) Stainless steel is about triple the material cost of mild.

To be fair, I don't know the exact numbers on this, but I would say with 99.9% confidence that when doing it on a commercial scale, Cerakote + mild steel is going to be significantly cheaper than producing the same thing in stainless.

Like I said, I'm not knocking Cerakote. If you have something in a non-stainless material and are looking for a protective coating, that's exactly what Cerakote is.

If you're starting from scratch and durability is priority #1, and you had to pick between one or the other, go stainless.

(I ditched blueing for this reason in favour of stainless rifles years ago.)

[stihl88]

I had a stainless barrel cerakoted only to keep the shiny bling factor down. I've got several other bits and bobs and devices coated in it and i've got nothing but good to say about it. Love the matte finish it gives.

[on_one_wheel]

Just remember it is simply some kind of 2 pack or epoxy based coating with the addition of solids.
Don't expect miracles.

It's a baked ceramic that can withstand high temp like exhaust systems, its getting popular in the motorcycle world

[Jorlcrin]

But given how many manufacturers have ditched Stainless in favour of Cerakoted offerings in recent past, I'm thinking I need to come up to speed on it.

Not knocking Cerakote here, but I think you'll find that's for 2 reasons other than durability.

1) Marketing, the Tacticool crowds love it; and
2) Stainless steel is about triple the material cost of mild.

To be fair, I don't know the exact numbers on this, but I would say with 99.9% confidence that when doing it on a commercial scale, Cerakote + mild steel is going to be significantly cheaper than producing the same thing in stainless.

Like I said, I'm not knocking Cerakote. If you have something in a non-stainless material and are looking for a protective coating, that's exactly what Cerakote is.

If you're starting from scratch and durability is priority #1, and you had to pick between one or the other, go stainless.

(I ditched blueing for this reason in favour of stainless rifles years ago.)

You reckon the cost would be 3 times the price for the steel?
I'm looking at various T3x rifles sold through The Barn, and the stainless equivalent looks to be around 5-10% dearer for the same rifle.

I know that when I've had a choice of both, the stainless variant was dearer, but 10% for a much more durable finish, was (for me) a no-brainer.

I'm much of the same mind-set as you have outlined; durability being No: 1 for me, so Stainless seems the pick.
I just cant really figure why companies like Lithgow havent offered Stainless in recent times, nor why companies like Ruger have ditched stainless offerings in favour of a Cerakote substitute on most of their bolt guns.
Anyhoo; Each to their own..

[stihl88]

416-R Stainless isn't the be all and end all, 4150 (Milspec) carbon steel wears slower over time so if your shooting barrel burner ammo perhaps consider the carbon steel. the 416-R is still susceptible to corrosion but at a slower rate and is an excellent material for high definition rifling so commonly used where higher accuracy is required.

On memory, stainless barrels have a higher sulfur content which sweats out over time and once gone corrosion and wear increases.

All in all they're much of a muchness but if you're going to be scrub bashing lots in moist or wet conditions then stainless might be the way to go, if you hate the look of stainless then consider cerakoting it.

[mchughcb]

I had a stainless barrel cerakoted only to keep the shiny bling factor down. I've got several other bits and bobs and devices coated in it and i've got nothing but good to say about it. Love the matte finish it gives.

Exactly the same. Had Swan make up a SS barrel, then matt finish to match receiver. Fantastic job. And reasonable pricing too.

[stihl88]

I had a stainless barrel cerakoted only to keep the shiny bling factor down. I've got several other bits and bobs and devices coated in it and i've got nothing but good to say about it. Love the matte finish it gives.

Exactly the same. Had Swan make up a SS barrel, then matt finish to match receiver. Fantastic job. And reasonable pricing too.

Well I'll be damned, mine is also SWAN SS barrel with black cerakote to match receiver

[Fester]

There are good and bad points to most things but it does seem to be a pretty tough and durable coating for field rifles.

It would be less prone to rust than a staino Tikka but the staino won't scratch off as easily as a painted coating.
It's going to wear off the moving parts and we will see in the long term how it lasts on the exterior but it should go well if not scratched on hard stuff.
It's about the only durable way to have color other than black or stainless.

[Lorgar]

You reckon the cost would be 3 times the price for the steel?
I'm looking at various T3x rifles sold through The Barn, and the stainless equivalent looks to be around 5-10% dearer for the same rifle.

...I just cant really figure why companies like Lithgow havent offered Stainless in recent times, nor why companies like Ruger have ditched stainless offerings in favour of a Cerakote substitute on most of their bolt guns.
Anyhoo; Each to their own..

I'm talking just about the material cost for the steel, yes, but that doesn't affect the cost for other materials like the stock, labor, shipping etc., so it doesn't triple the cost of the finished rifle.

To your point about Ruger, same as what I touched on above, I'd say a Cerakote rifle can be made/sold at a lower price point to make it more attractive/move more units while maintaining equal/better profit margin as the same rifle in stainless.

Again though, this doesn't mean Cerakote is a crappy substitute. It's horse for courses... I only use my rifle for hunting, so it's common for it to be exposed to weather and moisture, have scrub or branches scratching against it, etc. Also, it's easier to clean and store for longer periods without use between seasons. So stainless was the best option for my use.

[Die Judicii]

A lot of my rifles are stainless barreled,,,,, and I love em. All except the bright shiny bit.
I don't bother to get them ceracoted,, but instead buy rolls of that camo wrap (ebay) and wrap the barrels with it.
It certainly doesn't last for any huge amount of time,,,,, but hey,,, the wrap is cheap.

Best of both worlds in my view.

[Wapiti]

I reckon companies like Ruger have ditched stainless for cheaper carbon steel because it is just that, cheaper. The cerakote finish allows them to appeal to the big thing nowadays, "marketing in action". If it's coloured fancy, it can make up for many sins of ability. right?

We will use stainless barrels/actions for everything nowadays, have since as long as I can remember. The stainless isn't infallible, nor will it never corrode given the right conditions or time, but with our periods of use, usually daily, they do not require any care corrosion wise. At the end of a long day, in the rain, I can just put them away without doing anything and get on with more important things.
As for what steel lasts longer, Chrome-moly or SS, or the grade of SS used, most of the advice nowadays is copied from someone who said that someone who said that saw it on google. If it's not actually BS for the user, who cares. For example, I have a TSE stainless barrel on a 308W that has shot a few thousand rounds over 5000 when I stopped really counting, and it still shoots the same as it did new and still does not copper foul. Who cares?
Blued rifles are still around here, but they are the ones that are for pleasure of ownership, not working daily in all conditions.
You all suit yourselves.

And as for stainless giving you away when hunting, maybe brush up on your techniques and don't believe the rubbish written by "experts". That has never happened to me. My movements at the wrong time have. If painting over the SS makes you a better hunter, or something bulky and weird like a Boca shield, I have some investments to sell you that you really need to be successful too.
A bead or sand blasted finish on the SS makes it a non-reflective, NEVER scratchable finish if you have convinced yourselves that the above isn't true.
You can get all you need to do that job easily at your local Autobarn for under $100. Just make sure you get the media that doesn't introduce iron into the surface. Glass beads are foolproof.