Keeping a compensator snug

[fnq22]

So the new Black mamba is going well..apart from having to add a little piece of foam rubber in the pivot point that holds the upper onto the frame(which seems a common ailment of this Ruger mk 4 design feature to keep it all snug).

The only issue is after some amount of rounds the compensator works its way loose on the threaded barrel..

I have a small tool to tighten it but dont want to over torque it... it just seems to always come loose to a small degree after 50-100 rounds..

Any ideas beside threadlock..I was going to try some threadtape if nothing else is suggested...?

[on_one_wheel]

What do you have against thread locking compound?

Locktite 243 medium strength would be my go to.

[fnq22]

What do you have against thread locking compound?

Locktite 243 medium strength would be my go to.

I use loctite on other applications when i want a nut to stay put long term but havent used it in situations where it would be frequently removed...
I may have to do it this way but was exploring whether there was any simple alternatives then applying loctite every time it goes on and off...

The upper shroud and lower frame is also aluminium so I dont want to have to apply too much force/ to undo it by twisting the nut too hard whilst holding the gun tight.....snug but not locked on would be my preference...

[on_one_wheel]

Another option would be to drill and tap a hole for a locking grub screw and relieve the thread or index a hole where the grub screw locks down

[stihl88]

So the new Black mamba is going well..apart from having to add a little piece of foam rubber in the pivot point that holds the upper onto the frame(which seems a common ailment of this Ruger mk 4 design feature to keep it all snug).

The only issue is after some amount of rounds the compensator works its way loose on the threaded barrel..

I have a small tool to tighten it but dont want to over torque it... it just seems to always come loose to a small degree after 50-100 rounds..

Any ideas beside threadlock..I was going to try some threadtape if nothing else is suggested...?

Are you using a proper crush washer

[bigpete]

Get it a little bitty blanket

[fnq22]

This is what I'm working with..

[fnq22]

Get it a little bitty blanket

Sorry pete I dont understand..?

[fnq22]

Are you using a proper crush washer

No washer..do you reckon its worth a try..?

[fnq22]

Another option would be to drill and tap a hole for a locking grub screw and relieve the thread or index a hole where the grub screw locks down

Yeah nah..no power tools being used on my new 3K gun, mate..

[Oldbloke]

Try a little nail polished on the thread.

[stihl88]

Are you using a proper crush washer

No washer..do you reckon its worth a try..?

Will this Volquartsen Compensator crush-lock-spring fit? https://wirthweinguns.com/volquartsen-c ... -wg-ww.htm. Being .22LR you'll probably get away with a standard rubber o-ring like this guy > https://youtu.be/JsSfPK2N294?si=k9lV2vh59LmScVXe&t=80

[Wapiti]

Loctite is a bit extreme; nail polish just cracks and is an engineering non-event. No butchers' solutions on muzzle threads! And a grub screw tapped through will damage the barrel threads and sounds like a genuine idea, but it's not, so please no-one take offence. FFS, don't do any of that, on that awesome bit of kit !!!

The device should be able to lock against a shoulder and remain tight if the correct (or adequate) torque is used, especially for a rimfire. However, the suggestion of a crush washer is the best and only idea really that isn't a backyard butcher solution, again, no offence.

If you can wait, and there's no drama retightening the device after 100 rounds during a match, surely?, is to get online and buy a few of the special, thin wave washers specifically designed to hold muzzle devices tight.
They are pretty much infinitely reuseable, don't require a gorilla-like torque to be used to keep the brake tight. You LUBRICATE threads, not lock them up with some goo, and use something like this to keep the union from loosening.

[Oldbloke]

You can buy brass grub screws which is what I assumed was being suggested.

[Wapiti]

Interestingly, grub screw material wasn't discussed above. Have you even tried to source a small brass grubscrew ever anyway? And why would that be mate?
Respectfully, still not an acceptable fix. The internet is a scary place
Brass shavings from cutting across the barrel threads to lock, maybe on removal jamming the comp to take it off and clean it? Jamming up and stripping out because it's brass and tiny?
With the close, finely machined threads on quality gear like this, there's no way I'd ruin the gear when a completely adequate , non modification option is available.

[Oldbloke]

Have used brass grub screws years ago due to threads. Worked fine. It was tighten and forget. But never needed to buy one.
Anyway if a washer works its a good option.

[on_one_wheel]

Wapiti...There's no way I'd tightenen a grub screw against a thread either, you might want to read my post properly.

Anyhow, now he's pointed out that his firearm is one expensive bit of kit, I probably wouldn't want to bust out the tools either.

Now that I've seen photos of the compensator, I'd be going back to the drawing board and turning that threaded colar into a locking collar .... with a cut and screw

Old bloke .... if you can't find brass grub screws for those applications where you don't want to create a flat or hole for the screw to seat on or in, dropping a neatly fassioned piece of lead, copper or nylon in to the hole before setting the screw is a great option.

[Wapiti]

Hey, not trying to be the guy that always wins the argument, just trying to offer a solution that doesn't involve chopping into something and ruining its value.
Just the way I look at things.
Brainstorming is great, something always comes out of it. The OP will decide.

BTW on the subject of muzzle devices that are removed to clean, especially on a range gun that's shot, cleaned, shot, cleaned, I would always use Neverseize on the threads. Especially a stainless barrel with a stainless or different metal attachment. Because they are a mechanical joint that can wear, and this product will stop that. It will also stop galling.
I just threaded another muzzlebrake on a farmer friends rifle and he said, what's this grey sh*t on the threads. He has no idea what the stuff was! But that's OK.

[on_one_wheel]

Don't worry Wapiti, I was starting to take the piss, I do agree that a wave washer would definitely be the go.... but seriously, grub screws are the answer for everything.

Stainless sure is notorious for galling, neversieze is wonderful stuff on threads .... fingers, pants, shirts coffee cups and faces.

[Oldbloke]

Wapiti...There's no way I'd tightenen a grub screw against a thread either, you might want to read my post properly.

Anyhow, now he's pointed out that his firearm is one expensive bit of kit, I probably wouldn't want to bust out the tools either.

Now that I've seen photos of the compensator, I'd be going back to the drawing board and turning that threaded colar into a locking collar .... with a cut and screw

Old bloke .... if you can't find brass grub screws for those applications where you don't want to create a flat or hole for the screw to seat on or in, dropping a neatly fassioned piece of lead, copper or nylon in to the hole before setting the screw is a great option.

Yes think ive seen that.

[fnq22]

Are you using a proper crush washer

No washer..do you reckon its worth a try..?

Will this Volquartsen Compensator crush-lock-spring fit? https://wirthweinguns.com/volquartsen-c ... -wg-ww.htm. Being .22LR you'll probably get away with a standard rubber o-ring like this guy > https://youtu.be/JsSfPK2N294?si=k9lV2vh59LmScVXe&t=80

Strangely enough the crush washer linked here mentioned on the Volquartsen site states its not be used on the Mamba or Scorpion models..

I'll have to contact them andtry and find out why..

and thanks for the neversieze advice Wapiti...as i do remove it quite a bit and .22 are a very dirty cartridge..

The gun was getting some light strikes initially when i started practise the other day and upon closer inspection I noticed there was a build up of gunk on the face of the chamber that I guess was stopping the bolt face from sitting flush ...I'd put through around 3500 rounds through so far and regularly cleaned the barrel but not that area....Once I cleaned it up I was able to put a few hundred rounds through with no problems at all.....

[stihl88]

Yeah it does look a bit big in dia, maybe the rubber o-ring is the way to go...

[bigpete]

Get it a little bitty blanket

Sorry pete I dont understand..?

To keep it snug

[Wapiti]

Hey the Neverseize is also-ran great to keep things like comps and muzzle brakes from loosening too. Heavy thread lube resists a lot of the vibration frequencies that cause mechanical threads to loosen.
Also it will stop any wear, galling and ensure the joints come apart when you want them to.

Also if you ever disassemble the gas block off an Alcor, Chimera, or any other gas operated firearm from a dubious source etc, you'll notice that it's been glued on with a type of assembly adhesive... no idea why because the block is pinned in place. I suspect it's to stop gas leakage in a poorly machined fit.
If that's the case you'll have to heat the part to over the failure of the glue, which is unfortunately necessary. If you then reassemble the block with the Neverseize instead of the glue, the joint will seal, including the interference-fit pin, and it will come apart next time.

People might say, when woukd I ever do that. Well, gas blocks have to come off to do machining work to a barrel. Also over time, a gas port drilled in a barrel slowly gets smaller with carbon and metallic particles. If you do enough shooting, and your ejection gets sluggish and everything else looks fine, you might want to check that hole.

[dnedative]

Drop of purple loctite 222, its designed for set screws and other things you want to be able to adjust in the future but just want to keep snug.
Comes apart dead easy but its good for general vibrations.

[Wapiti]

If any of you have a firearm that has an adjustable gas block, or another rotating part exposed to high pressure gas, a good Moly paste made for this is a great choice. Neverseize is just a brand name.
Gas piston systems like this are self-cleaning, but the adjustable section can jam up after a few 100 rounds and won't rotate. You mightn't need to experiment with different settings, but id you ever want to disassemble the plug to brush out the piston bore, you will wish you'd done something to stop carbon jamming it up.

A coating of this product ensures it comes out easily even after a few months shooting.

Set screws in firearm design to stop other threaded parts falling off - FMD.

[fnq22]

Get it a little bitty blanket

Sorry pete I dont understand..?

To keep it snug

Ah funny man huh...

and the neversieze solution put forward by Wapiti worked a treat..shot a service pistol match on the weekend and comp was still tight afterwards so thanks for that mate as well, as the other proposals by other members..always good to get others ideas except maybe from pete..

[Oldbloke]

If any of you have a firearm that has an adjustable gas block, or another rotating part exposed to high pressure gas, a good Moly paste made for this is a great choice. Neverseize is just a brand name.
Gas piston systems like this are self-cleaning, but the adjustable section can jam up after a few 100 rounds and won't rotate. You mightn't need to experiment with different settings, but id you ever want to disassemble the plug to brush out the piston bore, you will wish you'd done something to stop carbon jamming it up.

A coating of this product ensures it comes out easily even after a few months shooting.

Set screws in firearm design to stop other threaded parts falling off - FMD.

Sooo, you had to repeat it.

I guess you should email RCBS management then. And tell them that their design engineer is an idiot.

IMG_20250414_142041.jpg (162.91 KiB) Viewed 1607 times

BTW, I've been using nail polish to prevent scope screws among other things from coming loose for perhaps 35years. Hasn't failed me yet.

[jezzab]

I'm not getting into this too much (every thread seems to be a little testy as the moment, maybe it the full moon) but I will use my experience from using aircraft grade (ARP) head bolts and studs on engines. You have to lube them with a moly type grease (to remove the friction), make sure the receiving thread hole is clean and torque to XX spec. The torque spec of the fastener is defined by the friction of the lubricant only. This allows you to get the fastener tighter at the same torque setting on the torque wrench (vs dry or other lube). If you did it dry (or crap in there), you would have more friction and the torque wrench would trip earlier with less clamping force on the fastener. If you cut the head off the fastner after its clamped with something like a grinder, and if you did it correctly, you should be able to wind the shank out with your fingers even though it was torqued to something like 150Nm.

TL;DR
Good lube lets you get the same thing tigher (more clamping pressure) with less force

[stihl88]

I'm not getting into this but I will use my experience from using aircraft grade (ARP) head bolts and studs on engines. You have to lube them with a moly type grease (to remove the friction), make sure the receiving thread hole is clean and torque to XX spec. The torque spec of the fastener is defined by the friction of the lubricant only. This allows you to get the fastener tighter at the same torque setting on the torque wrench. If you did it dry (or crap in there), you would have more friction and the torque wrench would trip earlier with less clamping force on the fastener. If you cut the head off the fastner after its clamped with something like a grinder, and if you did it correctly, you should be able to wind the shank out with your fingers even though it was torqued to something like 150Nm.

Same as the AR15 barrel tightening procedure, i use aircraft moly "Doupont Molykote G-n" when torquing the barrel nut, without it you're not torquing properly and risk shearing the pin, or worse the upper receiver.