





Billo wrote:Here is my take from thermaling most Friday nights for the last 2 years from a fixed location, Foxes have exceptional hearing and smell and are inquisitive and will often come into investigate a situation, even after multiple shots have been fired.
On numerous occasions after I've shot a pig a fox will come in from the side where they don't have my scent but I suspect they can smell blood down wind, a quick how ya going pulls them up for a shot.
Alot of the time esp during during dusk a fox will be head down following scents, movement will alert them but dress to blend in.
We often run a BBQ late at nite and I suspect the smell brings in alot of younger foxes, easy pickings




Late_Starter wrote:Hi,
I regularly shoot foxes on three properties, the following is my experience....
Hope some of this helps.



MG5150 wrote:Late_Starter wrote:
Can foxes see you better depending on the backdrop? Over the weekend we went out and the foxes were keeping 100m-150m or so into the next paddock and very hesitant to come closer even though the wind was in our favour. It was 3 of us and we were standing infront of a water tank as my mate brought his young son along. It didn't seem to be a problem last time when it was darker and just two of us but this time it was lighter (even I could see them outlined against the tank from 40-50m) and the extra person might have caused a bit more movement passing the monocular around.
I did some reading on fox vision a while back. They are dichromatic so they see the blue and yellow spectrums, but are supposed to be able to see 150 shades of grey which is why their night vision is so good. If you are standing in front of a single solid colour tank with the moon shining on you will be easy to see. The moon is always a problem when shooting foxes. That is why I wear camo at night including a neck tube that I pull up to cover my lower face and stand under or back dropped by trees. And try to get into position before the sun goes down and they start to move. That way we are blended into the environment and are ambushing. We are also having a similar problem with the 6:30pm fox, but as we shoot the property weekly, time and opportunity is on our side. We just need to be patient and persistent and it will make a mistake.MG5150 wrote:Late_Starter wrote:We get to shoot on a chicken farm and there is a carcass pile that the foxes come into. I think we're going to go with setting up a blind that overlooks the pile that we can shoot from without being seen. Would you recommend setting it up the week before and giving them some time to get used to it? (we might be able to leave it there as a permanent setup)


JohnV wrote:A hungry fox comes in to the whistle faster and with less caution than one who is well fed . Mid to late winter is a good time to whistle foxes as food is scarce . That's not to say that you can't get them all year round but they are less keen .
A fox has excellent eye sight and can see you further away than you can see it but their eyesight and brain is geared towards good night vision and detecting movement . They are not good at differentiating shapes and colours that are mixed together that break up the silhouette of something like all animals and humans but humans have high intelligence , logic and imagination and can decipher shapes better but foxes can be very smart but young ones are not so smart .
During the day movement , unnatural noise and silhouette is you main enemy plus white facial display . Wear a face veil . Some people blow the whistle so much the fox gets suspicious and bolts or wont come in . A few loud bursts followed by some lighter whimpers is all you need 5 minutes apart . Once a fox comes in don't blow the whistle while the fox is looking in your direction because he will then lock onto your position and see any slight movement . Wait till the fox has his head down or he is moving sideways then blow the whistle lightly . That way he can't be sure of where it's coming from exactly and will keep moving in . To stop a fox in a clear spot to take a shot just cough . They think it's another fox somewhere . I could write a book on this subject but that's the basics and should get you some foxes .


MG5150 wrote:JohnV wrote:A hungry fox comes in to the whistle faster and with less caution than one who is well fed . Mid to late winter is a good time to whistle foxes as food is scarce . That's not to say that you can't get them all year round but they are less keen .
A fox has excellent eye sight and can see you further away than you can see it but their eyesight and brain is geared towards good night vision and detecting movement . They are not good at differentiating shapes and colours that are mixed together that break up the silhouette of something like all animals and humans but humans have high intelligence , logic and imagination and can decipher shapes better but foxes can be very smart but young ones are not so smart .
During the day movement , unnatural noise and silhouette is you main enemy plus white facial display . Wear a face veil . Some people blow the whistle so much the fox gets suspicious and bolts or wont come in . A few loud bursts followed by some lighter whimpers is all you need 5 minutes apart . Once a fox comes in don't blow the whistle while the fox is looking in your direction because he will then lock onto your position and see any slight movement . Wait till the fox has his head down or he is moving sideways then blow the whistle lightly . That way he can't be sure of where it's coming from exactly and will keep moving in . To stop a fox in a clear spot to take a shot just cough . They think it's another fox somewhere . I could write a book on this subject but that's the basics and should get you some foxes .
Thanks John, great insights!
After whistling, how long do you wait before moving?
I put a fox up over the weekend, crouched down, and whistled a few times, then after a minute I went to move forward 2 meters so I could see over a hill and it busted out from 5m away with it's mate... didnt get a shot off.

