For those of you here that get out and do a bit of game hunting for meat as a resource, you'll know how hit and miss (pun intended) finding the animals can be.
The reality is of course, animals spend most of their day trying to get enough of the right food to eat, and will hang around where a safe place is found where they can get it.
Carcases of vermin animals or dead stock will attract carnivores, we've all set up bait stations and had much success with this. In fact I had so much success with culled kangaroos going to feed wild pigs that they would follow my ute coming down to my pig trap when I came past to fill it and stand around and wait for me to leave. So my landcruiser ute became known as "the pie truck".
But with deer this easy free option doesn't work, so here are a few ideas to both attract, and actually grow better animals, with a real easy way to encourage them.
Yes we've all seen the grain/corn feeder the Americans use, they are way ahead of most of us in enthusiasm and will take the time off season to try and get a bit of meat for home. They spend a bit of money and time, to get better odds.
These contraptions can be expensive though, and the risk is always others could steal or vandalise your stuff.
The only issue I can see for casual hunters is that most of you don't have exclusive access, or your own places where you can truly manage game animals, so you just have to be a bit smart about where you put these attractants so you don't advantage other people who would take what you are trying to hunt.
Put these things away from tracks, roads through to crops, you'll work it out based on your knowledge of your area.
From what I see, the average hunter is more likely to be driving around on a quad or a buggy or any vehicle, and pretty soon most animals will regard these sounds as danger. So put your baits where people have to take the time to walk in to, maybe along a game trail coming down from thick bush to some pasture for example.
Molasses based lick blocks have the benefit that they are very palatable, and can be purchased cheaply and last for ages. You can select blocks that are mineral based so over a season for example, you can even get better antler growth, better meat quality, and better fertility rates so fawns are born stronger, mothers milk is as nutritious as possible and you will have game in the future.
You should not buy blocks that contain UREA, as this is toxic to many animals. It is the molasses content and smell of it that will attract the animals. Blocks are available with up to 40% molasses, but a balance is required, high content blocks are eaten very fast because they are softer the more of it is in them.
I'm not talking about culling animals or "how many d'ja get mate" stuff.
I'm talking about a facet of game management.
An example of a very good block for both nutrition, palatability and long life.

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Some examples of ingredients. This one clearly says "no urea".

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An idea on how to keep them getting mixed up in the dirt. This is the block above in an old plastic water jerrycan repurposed. Make sure you drill plenty of holes in the tub so the water from rain can immediately drain. If filled with water, the dissolved mixture will be too concentrated for the animal to consume in one sitting.
The ingredients are mixed with minerals to be quite hard, so by the time the animal is tired from licking and scraping the block and moves off to drink, they will have had a safe dose of the minerals for one sitting.

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Have fun. A little bit of trouble makes for a better result.