rem 700 stock mod for full bull barrel

[FoxSpotter]

Looking at getting a custom barrel with extended knox form to accommodate re throating in the future.
Apart from being unusual or ugly looking...any comments or ideas about removing the barrel channel walls?
I don't imagine the forend would be too weakened, so still could be used for a forend rest...

[Wapiti]

What stock is it that you are looking to remove the material from mate?
That is a pretty big deciding factor.

A chassis stock may not need any material removed at all, depending on the style and make, an good quality varmint stock such as HS or B&C would just need the action relief extended forward by careful hand grinding with a pencil grinder and carbide burr, whilst a plastic standard stock might just become too floppy forward of the bedding area to use for consistency.

Most gunsmiths or people would not have the size mill (clearance) to set up a stock vertically and use the right diameter cutter from above. Setting up in a lathe would be impossible. You'd do it by hand with the largest diameter carbide cutter in a small diameter pencil grinder - a Dremel is tiny and would take a lot longer with the small cutters but would do the job with a steady hand.

[FoxSpotter]

The original wooden stock.
The idea may be to revive all the channel upper..
Either by passes on a mill..
Or by a belt sander... hopefully carefully..

If a larger knox form on a cost barrel was installed..there would be no wood left in that area...of the know form..

[Wapiti]

Mate you don't need much of an extended knox-form to do a couple of rechamber and set backs. Not sure how many you ever expect to do before the rest of the barrel is eroded past your accuracy expectations.
50mm?

Most likely, as well as doing that, perhaps you ditch the timber stock and go for one with an alloy v-block bedding style. The HS Precision ones I prefer over the others in a varmint profile barrel style would accept an extended knox form without any stability or weakening issues.
I wouldn't attempt to do this in a mill.
This is because the alloy block extends right up the forend to where the sling studs are, they thread into this alloy rail hidden inside. So no weakening of the forend.

If you have to have one of those chassis style stocks, I'd just see if you can have a look at which ones suit that wouldn't need any material removal at all. A couple of MDT ones I've stashed in the shed for R700's (I hate the f**ken things, point like a bent star picket) have the same diameter of the action OD all the way to the end of the forend, You wouldn't need to touch them.

Interesting concept and idea.

[FoxSpotter]

I'm avoiding buying an expensive chassis..
Have a MDT LSS DL with a full bull.

I'm pondering a parallel know for of an inch or two to make an easy grip in a barrel vice.

After the knox, my current build will taper down.

However...the concept of removing all barrel channel lip is interesting

Let me know if you would like some assistance to remove those mdt dust collectors...I'm mostly interested in LSS DL

THANKS

[FoxSpotter]

I'm avoiding buying an expensive chassis..
Have a MDT LSS DL with a full bull.

I'm pondering a parallel know for of an inch or two to make an easy grip in a barrel vice.

After the knox, my current build will taper down.

However...the concept of removing all barrel channel lip is interesting

Let me know if you would like some assistance to remove those mdt dust collectors...I'm mostly interested in LSS DL

THANKS

[Wapiti]

Yeah you're going to have a serious weakening of that stock and probably make the firearm worthless in that stock afterwards too, if you proceed with your idea there using it.
Making the requirement to purchase another stock to do it a reality anyway, to do a good job.
And HS or other real quality varmint stocks are even dearer than MDT. Maybe not with the required extra buffer tube, butt, pistol grips etc. unless you have that stuff lying around from other projects.

Next time I can get down to the reloading room I will try and remember to have a look what the LSS stocks I have look like with regards to what you are trying to achieve. I believe I have one for R700 LA and SA, and Howa Mini. And a couple of HSP's too. Boy, I wasted some money in my time.

[FoxSpotter]

LSS XL for rem 700 short Action is what I'm interested in..$1600 new in a few bits n bobs...huge money...
It's the weakening I wonder about..mabe I could have the bottom milled flat and have a 10 inch arca rail installed...

[Wapiti]

Yes, you could, maybe you'd have to pretty much secure it back at the front action screw area because from there forward you won't want to be thumping the forend down on anything.
It will flex and squirm and absolutely detract from any accuracy gains elsewhere. Especially more so that any wear of your throat area, which is seemingly what you want to address by giving yourself a few re-chambers by giving more reinforcement at the chamber.

Look, I reckon it's an interesting idea, but maybe not really such a practical thing to try and solve in that way mate?

[FoxSpotter]

That's my concern..reduced strength .flex etc..

[Wapiti]

Mate I dragged out a few stocks to give you some ideas of ones you could use here.
I don't have any HS Precision stocks that aren't bolted up to rifles, I don't want to pull them to bits. But look at this Hogue.
It's a 700 LA full alloy bed stock, very stiff. A Hogue with pillar bedding is a flexible and awful, no good for this.

Edit: It doesn't look like it. but you could have a fully cylindrical Knox form out for a fair bit before it tapers down.

HOGUE.jpg (682.09 KiB) Viewed 2282 times

[FoxSpotter]

Thanks for ha inv a look....I'm mostly into in another lss xl...with the bits n bobs...but..this is for the future..
...
I bedded a rem 700 plastic stock..it worked out very very well...maybe because it was a great a series to begin....fox shot at 530 yards
Thermal..243.

I haven found any flex...was easy to bedmm.so...im.wondsrimg that I got lucky...but..it seems a standard n cheap factory stock

[Wapiti]

These MDT LSS short action (308) stocks only locate the action itself and have a big margin forward of clearance for what you are after mate.
Only thing that's a bitch about these things is...
Extra $$$ for a buffer tube, butt, pistol grip, rocket launcher, 400W death ray etc that everyone needs nowadays for visual appeal.
And they point like a star picket.

2x LSS.jpg (689.76 KiB) Viewed 2280 times

Another thing too, have you heard about lapping scope rings?
Most people say, "never needed too" but they've never put a lapping bar into a set of rings with lapping paste and seen how much they twist the scope in many cases.
Well, same goes for allot bedded stocks, Often, the alloy bar has twists in it, these are pulled flat when clamped down prior to CNC machining, but then spring back again when released. The only way to tell is have a 4140 bar machined down to the exact diameter of your action, and rotate it by hand in the action to see how straight it is. When the stock is sitting bare, no stress in a cradle of some sort.
That twisting does not make for consistency, yet plenty will say, bullsh*t doesn't happen. But they haven't looked like I've described.

2x LSSb.jpg (699.62 KiB) Viewed 2280 times

Some gunsmiths have said that these stocks benefit from "skim bedding", which is where you bed your action into the alloy stock with bedding compound. All you are doing is a Frankenstein attempt to hide that slight twist, and it's just unnecessary and takes more money from your wallet.
Bedding compound is much more flexible (twist) than the thick alum block in there, and it's still twisted. The lapping bar with valve grinding paste solves that 100%.
Some people should have lstened during their machinists apprenticeship. What's that? Sorry, gunsmiths don't do that anymore?
Rain coat on....

[FoxSpotter]

I love point bedding...as more surface cantac..and repeatable performance...ie..action in ..action out.
All stocks should be bedded.
Chahsi should be bedded..as they have limited contact on action
I've bedded before ..it's.a stress..gotta do research to do it well.
Was looking at atomised stainless powder last night...goes into bedding compound.

I pay for bedding when gettting action trued..to be on the safe side.

Lapping rings...yes...no way rings can align. ... normally...too many variables...action screws..mounts...etc..
But.
I've got spuhr one piece qd..so..should be pretty right..

[Wapiti]

No need to bed an alloy bedded stock that's straight.
If it makes you more comfortable doing it, go ahead, but full contact in bedding 180' is a myth.
Kinda reminds me of the FDE coloured green dot sight, costs more than the black one and has no benefit except extracting more cash for a bragging point.
I'm just suggesting an engineering fix that works mate, that keeps your money for ammo not the gunsmiths' super retirement fund.

[deye243]

Are you re-chambering and setting the barrel back because if not it's hardly worth the effort gunsmith's gonna ask for somebody between three and five hundred dollars to do that , I haven't read the whole thread just wondering what calibre and why you would want a full Bull barrel that's 1.25" of an inch all the way to the muzzle that's bloody heavy

[Wapiti]

Should've read the whole thread mate, the OP just wants an extra-long chamber reinforce so he could just set the barrel back a few times as he burns off the start of the leade.
Might sound strange to some, but when at 2-300 bucks a time, it's a quarter of the cost of a new barrel blank, plus chamber and fitting.
That's if tge gunsmith is going to do a nice straight job.

[FoxSpotter]

Yep...the main idea is extra long knox so chamber can be cleaned up at throat after several thousand rounds. This would mean very thin wood at that Knox area...refer to pic...
It also led to idea of removing the barrel channel walls and if that would work..
Then a short fat barrel, or long could be put on.
The original rem stock is very light...and already owned...I looked for light stocks...they are all mug heavier than original wood....

It seems like a relevant mod if you'd like to stick to original stock...but...want a longer know or fatter barrel


Thanks for internet deye243

[perentie]

If you want an as new 700 wooden stock I have one here you can have. When I built my wifes F class rifles on 700 actions I bought Accuracy International stocks.
If interested I can post a photo. Just pay the postage on it.

I also have some smithing stuff here. Action truing etc and chamber reamers in 6BR and 6.5/284 plus go and no go gauges.

[FoxSpotter]

Thanks for the superb offer.
Is it a short Action stock?
I wonder what postage may be for it...
Thanks

[perentie]

Sorry, just reread the thread and see you are after a short action. The 6.5 had a long but I cant remember what the 6BR had or which one its off. Is there a simple measurement I can make to determine which it is?

[FoxSpotter]

I'd be looking for a stock to match 22br ..which would be a 6br. And I assume short Action..