Something I've never done.

[Die Judicii]

Recently I bough an LED hunting torch (Night Core P30) and wondering how it will go as an alternative to thermal for dogs/dingoes

Has anyone got 1st hand experience shooting feral dogs/dingoes under white light ?

Or,,,,, would I be better off sticking to thermal ?

[Finniss]

I've had some in the light unaware at a few meters. Others bolt as soon as I flick it on. Dogs where I hunt are not very cagey but I find the white led tends to scare them more than warmer yellows.

All depends on the hunting pressure in your areas i guess, I imagine thermal would be more consistently successful.

[Finniss]

I like to mount torch on scope with a figure 8. but a few shots with 308ish recoil can move it a bit. I have an olight magnetic barrel mount for my javelot as well but being a heavier torch it comes off under recoil.

[Wapiti]

That's why the picatinny mounts are so good.
The figure-8 mounts that come with hunting-torch kits work, but are up on the scope, are very difficult to activate the torch without an accessory replacement end cap/thumb button that you have to stick on the forend somewhere - they move, cords get snagged on everything, I ignore them
A small pic piece on the forend, or if there is a long rail on top, makes for a very secure, low profile mount, and you can thumb the torch's bottom cap button on whilst looking through the scope.

What I've done, and actually really prefer, is to look through a monocular to scan and locate (I'd love thermal binos, but can't justify the cost atm), have the rifle up on a rest already, swith to the gun and hit then torch. And bang.

Them, I can use ANY rifle with a scope on it from the stash, the scope is perfectly zeroed to the ammo to suit the hit, because the scope is a good one and the torch is bright, the image is crystal clear and it's very fast.
This way is also great for people who can't afford all this expensive gear. A monocular thermal is all you need to scan for the ferals you are looking to remove. I've never had an issue doing this, others mightn't agree and I get that.
If I'd spent $$$$ on a thermal scope, I'd be telling myself it's the only thing to use too.

The other thing I've found is that the torches I use have a beam wavelength now that certainly doesn't scare the game off any more than the old QH spotlights did.
The cheaper LED's with the 6000K and crap blueish light ones of old did, and the good torches like Olight and Nitecore don't have those anymore.
And the HID's from Lightforce are the same as this now too.

But the same old story of what the pro-shooters know still applies... ANY light shone in your eyes makes you look away eventually, or bugger off, so use the edge of the beam if you can. This works so much better.

[Wapiti]

If your torch is mounted well, you have best chance of being real fast and making it a breeze to use.

This is a $10 accessory scope clamp mount, very secure and comes in 25 and 30mm. Recoil won't shift the scope but it's still not able to be operated without a replacement coily-cord end-cap with a stick-on pressure switch. I do not like how they catch on stuff.

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But even with a largish-diameter torch like this older Olight Javalot, the pic-rail mounts will allow them to be fitted.

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Even this P30 Nitecore with it's whopping large long-range reflector fits on a small piece of accessory pic-rail on a rifle's forend, especially seeing that most forends are rounded. This means the bell of the torch clears the barrel even though the torch body is right against the mount.
Your MH25 will be way easier to clear anything than this 30.

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Hope you get some ideas from this, DJ.
I have used these all and have been very successful with this way of night shooting. With your way of staking out a spot and being as quiet as you are, a torch coming on out of nowhere will not frighten anything off before you get a shot off.
I've found a fox or dog busted in this way doesn't react for ages, the look on it's face is, "what's this?" and stands there with the cogs turning. Even carries on doing what it was. If it has smelt you, or heard you walking for a bit, of course it the light will be the last straw.
I guess it depends how much hunting pressure it's been under prior too.

[Wapiti]

Oh, and I found, magnetic barrel mounts f**k with the barrel's harmonics and throw off the shot. Then on a reasonably powerful rifle, the torch flies off and smashes right onto a rock. I hate them and always thought them a compromise idea, dreamed up by a marketing department.

[Wapiti]

Mate, an example of a small bit of polymer pic-rail on a .22 forend. Beats the awful top-heavy feel of those scope-mounted lights hands-down.
Weighs nothing and forward of where my support hand holds the rifle.

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With the superseded Nitecore MH25 on it. Yours is an upgraded light, but same stature. You can see how a thumb on-off is uncluttered, instant and easy without taking the rifle scope from your eye.

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This works great for me, and is instant. I can patrol around the sheds, poke around a corner, thumb on the light whilst looking through the scope and bang, bang.
Way faster than thermals, although both have their best uses.
Having both choices, this is quicker. I actually find thermals quite a few seconds slower, but of course for detecting heat/animals they are miles ahead.

[Die Judicii]

Thanks for all the info above. Mine arrived Monday morning. Ended up getting the P27 kit. Pretty good piece of gear. Incredible how much heat it generates tho.