Reloading - Pros & Cons

[Harrison S]

If we are being 100% honest with each other... what are the pros and cons to reloading?... is it really cheaper than buying factory... is it easy for newcomers to get into... equipment needs vs wants... etc...

Just an interesting topic to see people views on...

[wanneroo]

Generally yes it is cheaper than factory.

It allows you to tailor your loads some, gives you some independence to reload your own brass in hard times, it is a fun hobby testing things out and experimenting, etc.

The equipment to reload is pretty durable and for the most part lasts a lifetime.

[Finniss]

The biggest pro for me is projectile choice increasing versatility. I use 85 to 180gn in my .270. Factory offerings are really 130-150gn with the odd box of 110 showing up. Im sure i could use 150s for everything, but low recoil 85s at >3600fps drop fallow and goats far quicker than factory ammo ever did and 180s do a better job on camels.....saved me buying a 243 and 3006...maybe.

Making subsonic ammo is handy too especially with an appropriate projectile that usually doesn't come factory loaded.

I think cost vs factory will depend on cartridge and how often you shoot.chasing an accurate load in a dud rifle can get expensive quick....

Find someone with experience in the shooting/hunting type you intend to do and narrow down what you need and buy once. I started with a lee loader (the hammer one) then found out I eventually needed to full length resize so bought a press and dies as well.

Ongoing costs outside of ammo components exist as well...im on my 4th set of electronic scales, different case lubes went in the bin until I found one that wasn't rubbish, tumbling media or cleaning fluids cost too.

[No1Mk3]

It is a lot cheaper than buying factory in most cases, as wanneroo states it allows you to tailor a load to a specific firearm to improve performance, it is easy for newcomers to try, just make sure you buy a manual from a known name such as Speer, Norma, Hornady, Nick Harvey etc and stick to it, don't experiment or vary the data until you are well versed and experienced yourself in reloading which takes time. Equipment can be as basic and cheap or as expensive and complex as you like but I would recommend starting at the most basic set that requires each stage to be completed in order so as to learn, understand and master those elements before even thinking of progressive reloading presses. I started with an $11 kit which comprised a set of glorified pliers into which a die was screwed and a set of powder dippers and made perfectly acceptable hunting ammo for a couple of years in 30-30, 303 and 8x57 plus a Lee kit which needed a mallet to use to make 308. Scales are nice but not necessary to make good usable ammo, but as you progress they will become essential for chasing accuracy and consistency.

[No1Mk3]

Lee Dippers.jpg (7.44 KiB) Viewed 135 times

Lyman 310.jpg (42.57 KiB) Viewed 135 times

What I used to reload for about 2 years. The powder dippers worked fine without a scale however most powders listed with them are no longer available to us and a scale may be needed these days, a balance scale is very accurate and well priced but even the cheaper digitals will suffice with some mucking about with having to constantly re-zero.

[Fester]

Cheaper and more accurate ammo for sure.
Can also tailor-make the ammo for purpose and tune it to the rifle.
Any projectile imaginable can be used.
Subsonic, cheap cast ammo for lever action plinking.

The biggest downside is the time you need to put in, as it's huge.
The amount of equipment and machines to do the crap case cleaning and prep is also huge.
You can shoot more, and likely will, with testing and load development put in.

If you love shooting and want to shoot a lot, it is a necessary part of doing it, and who would want to buy that much ammo.
To enjoy all the different types of shooting, including longer range plates and stuff, there is no other way.
I can mix it up and shoot the .223 like a 22lr to not waste as much dearer ammo.

Once fully set up and loading for all centrefire cals, the equipment and buying is now minimal, and slowly just paying itself off so no great loss.

[Wapiti]

My opinion - if you do a bit of shooting, you have to handload.
Rifles for field use:
If you want the best, most consistent and most reliably available ammunition for your firearms, you have to reload.
Buy up when components are at their most economical, and stock up on all consumables. Isolate yourself from stupid world events that hold up supplies of factory components.
Ever bought factory 300 and 375 RUM or 338 Lapua ammo, or Weatherby calibres? The fun stuff? $<200-$400/20 cartridges, no thanks.
Pistols:
I have no use or need for simple lead bullets because I use pistols for primary production. The 9mm I use is cheap as chips for hollow-point ammo, which I need, and the 44 mag pretty much is the same as the cost of reloading good jacketed HP ammo as is factory already made up.
So I only handload for rifles, not pistols.

[Damo300]

All of the above.

I really only buy shop ammo for the brass.

[Harrison S]

Shop ammo for the brass makes 100% sense... personally I dont yet reload, but definitely thinking about it.

What are the solid recommendations for a good starter kit... one that will stand the test of time, and one that im not going to need to upgrade anytime soon??

[wrenchman]

I was reloading for a while when I had kids I stopped when my son expressed a interest I got back into it so I do reload for all the reasons stated but it is also a way to spend time with my son

[Damo300]

Shop ammo for the brass makes 100% sense... personally I dont yet reload, but definitely thinking about it.

What are the solid recommendations for a good starter kit... one that will stand the test of time, and one that im not going to need to upgrade anytime soon??

I wouldn't recommend a kit as such.
You end up only using a little bit and buying better quality components, and the kits cost a fortune.


Keep an eye on the gun sales sites. .
I've found the SSAA gun sales has reloading gear all the time.

Press. Mine is a Lee press and it has the primer press inclusive.
Primer pocket cleaner.
Neck chamfer tool.
Digital vernier gauge.
Bullet Comparators (they fit to vernier for more consistent length measurement)
Digital scales (have to measure in grain. Hornady do a set)
Powder thrower.
Powder tickler.
Funnel.

Dies come in the kits suitable for your calibre. I get the 4 die kits, because I like to neck size sometimes, and I like to crimp as well. The other 2 dies are the full length resize, and the projectile seating die.
The Lee die kits have all the case measurement info in the included paperwork.
There is also a case trimming die sold separately.
It is a quick release press, so instead of winding the treads of the dies all the way down, the dies fit in a quick release collar (that sold seperatly) to allow quick swap overs.

It will all make sense once you start, but I wouldn't buy a kit again. Keep an eye on those Web sites every day.
One will come up.



For case cleaning, I do this every 3rd reload. I just purchased a cheap jewelry tumbler off ebay, and got the stainless media.


Annealing.
When you get to this stage, I recommend and "ugly annealer" off ebay. Aussie made. Genius idea.