moldy stock

[shoot2eat]

I've got 2 rifles with wood stock (unsealed / oil finish)
They are infested with fury grey mold.
I've tried washing / drenching them with clove oil, and also quaternary ammonium aka Quatsan.
Tried sitting them out in strong sunlight.
Leave them for 2 weeks, and the mold comes back.
Does anyone have any suggestions to kill the mold, without damaging my nice timber stocks?

[wrenchman]

wipe it down with vinegar take the gun out of the stock don't get carry away because it could remove finish lemon juice kills mold also

[Damo300]

The mould is buried deep into the timber.
You're killing what's on the surface, but the roots are still deep inside the timber grain and your cleaners will not reach them.
Maybe ask a cabinet maker, or someone who deals in timber restorations.

My experience is with gyprock, and I tore the whole lot down and replaced it because the mould is deep down in the fibre where cleaners cannot get to them.

[straightshooter]

Your problem stems either from the timber being insufficiently dry to start with and/or being kept in a humid environment with inadequate sealing or being a timber unsuitable for use as a rifle stock.
What to do?
1. First remove all furniture from the stock including recoil pad.
2. Give the stock a light rub down with a scourer and metho until any surface material has been removed.
3. Bake the stock in an electric oven at about 90 degrees C for two to three hours. Do not exceed 95 degrees as that might open any incipient cracks. Procure an oven thermometer so you can continuously monitor the temperature and don't trust the numbers on the dial. The aim is to dry out the stock and to kill the fungal mycelium and any spores inside the wood. To do that the innermost point in the stock must be held to at least 85 degree C for at least half an hour without overheating the outer wood. Remember that wood is a fairly good heat insulator so it will take quite a while to reach that internal temperature.
4. ASAP when the stock has cooled enough to comfortably handle with bare hands, rub in a thin coat of boiled linseed oil or preferably BirchwoodCasey Truoil (if you don't mind a shiny finish) over the entire surface of wood. Set aside for a couple of days and then do any sanding and refinishing you may like.

[Die Judicii]

As Straightshooter said,,,,,,,,,
In the case of "shine" if u don't like it,,, don't worry cos a light rub afterwards with ultra fine steel wool will get the surface appearance back
to what you prefer.

You said in your OP it was "unsealed" and "oiled" which doesn't make a whole lot of sense.
Any OILED finish should seal the pores of the timber.

[Fester]

Sounds like your safe will need attention when you sort the stocks.
Mould is a s**t thing, and everywhere after the continuous wet weather.

A light bulb burning in the safe would be one way; they say that slight heat is enough to dry out the humidity.
Golden rods, I think, is the name of the product that is purpose-built for inside a safe application.

Still need to drill a hole to run a 240 power wire.
I would then silastic the hole and fit a plug hanging down the side or back.
Could use a timer after you get it dry.

[GQshayne]

I had the same problem. Got one of those silicon moisture removers you heat up now and again to help. Then a while after that I put a cup of rice in there, and just replace it occasionally. The rice made a difference. No mold for ages.

[Fester]

I have never needed heat as I haven't had mould or rust.

I gave up on the plug in units as those beads do change colour fast.
I bought a big bag of the orange to green ones that are safe to dry in the microwave.
I now just spread them thin on an ice cream container lid, and the sun dries them back to orange.
Jar them, and they stay good for a fresh jar in the safe every month or so.

Also got a jar of rice and the white powder one, but NFI if they did anything to help, can't hurt though.

I avoid the Damp Rid stuff, as it is just ends up like a container of salt water in no time flat and can't see that helping.
It also pulls water out of the driest air, tested in an upstairs bedroom, and got water every time.

[Tiger650]

Semi off topic re dessicants.
Jap motorcycles may still come with bags of silicagel in the crate, workshops generally throw these out so a six pack of stubbies should get you a few.
Dry them out occasionally in a low oven or in the sun and they last forever.
I got mine in the 1980s and they still work a treat.